OEM Conrods worth it?

[Seraphinwolf]

Okay so my new build will be a bit on the cheap side. I'd LIKE to do full internals but I also know I'm really going budget where I can. I want to do the pistons to OEM spec or maybe even LAN's 11:1. IDK really, but I have low goals and this will get either rebuilt again in the future or I'll build another one to replace it. I just want to know how competent are the OEM rods? Just a PnP and a valvetrain rebuild for the most part with a light hone to the cylinder walls to make sure they aren't scored and slap it all together. I just want to know if I'm staying way below or at 300BHP will i run into issues with the OEM conrods? I'm not looking to make a monster and likely won't even see 275BHP but just in the off chance I wanted to know.
Discuss....

[SilverSpear]

You may hear a lot of opinions of with and against right now. But I tell you this...
Never gamble with the engine's internals. What if one breaks? What would happen to your engine?

It is up to you.

[TomsSVX]

stock rods with ARP fasteners will be good

Tom

[RallyBob]

Jack Laverty kicked out a stock 140,000+ mile rod only because he:

A) Was making 318 whp
B) Was revving to 8200 rpms
C) Lost oil pressure due to 1.5+ G's of lateral acceleration which starved the pump. A street car on street tires driving on the street will never see this kind of cornering force.

For just about anything else I think you'd be fine.

[McTaff]

Jack Laverty kicked out a stock 140,000+ mile rod only because he:

A) Was making 318 whp
B) Was revving to 8200 rpms
C) Lost oil pressure due to 1.5+ G's of lateral acceleration which starved the pump. A street car on street tires driving on the street will never see this kind of cornering force.

For just about anything else I think you'd be fine.

I'd have to crash to see those kinds of forces.

[Seraphinwolf]

stock rods with ARP fasteners will be good

Tom

Jack Laverty kicked out a stock 140,000+ mile rod only because he:

A) Was making 318 whp
B) Was revving to 8200 rpms
C) Lost oil pressure due to 1.5+ G's of lateral acceleration which starved the pump. A street car on street tires driving on the street will never see this kind of cornering force.

For just about anything else I think you'd be fine.

thanks guys. I was figuring I"d be good but wanted input. I really don't want to over budget myself with this engine. :o I need to still beable to afford gas afterwards....

[STeeL25T]

I need to still beable to afford gas afterwards....


Doh... I knew I forgot something..

[Seraphinwolf]

Doh... I knew I forgot something..

Indeed... Now to figure out HOW ON EARTH TO JUSTIFY COST ON PISTONS! What's the stock ratio anyways? Are LAN's 9.3's=OEM? I want a little more but I don't think it's worth the 11:1's... Oh well goals aren't high anyways. More like making a fresh motor that HAPPENS to put out a little more. Tom and Bob I think I'll be PMing you guys with a few questions as I wish to pick yo brains! :o

[sicksubie]

stock CR is 10:1 if I remember correctly...

[Crazy_pilot]

Are you doing anything for engine management? With the stock MAF maxing out in the 250 HP range there isn't a whole lot of room for improvement without going to a different support system. Although most of our engines are old and tired, so bringing them back to even stock power levels is an improvement.

[Seraphinwolf]

Are you doing anything for engine management? With the stock MAF maxing out in the 250 HP range there isn't a whole lot of room for improvement without going to a different support system. Although most of our engines are old and tired, so bringing them back to even stock power levels is an improvement.

Already stated, goign to MegaSquirt 2. Can't very well beat the price I got a BRAND NEW unit with ALL THE ADD ON PEICES for. :D So I'll be going to a MAP sensor along with it. Just don't know what I'll do intake wise....

[SVXRide]

Another alternative is going with STi rods and ARP bolts. Little more margin and you should be able to pick up some from over at NASIOC when they upgrade to aftermarket rods.

-Bill

[Seraphinwolf]

Another alternative is going with STi rods and ARP bolts. Little more margin and you should be able to pick up some from over at NASIOC when they upgrade to aftermarket rods.

-Bill

Good point but I'll save that for the next step of the build. Hell pistons might even be put on the second part of the build. LAN's pistons are PRICEY! And what's with the 9.3:1 of stock is 10:1? How much change on the low and high end is that 0.7 in compression gonna change things? If it won't hurt top end(which really isn't my worry as much as low end) and I can level out my tune on the MS2 to really boost up my fuel consumption efficency then HELL YEAH!

[Seraphinwolf]

Bump for answer about the piston specs?

[TomsSVX]

stock pistons will be more than enough for what you are looking for.... Yes they are 10:1. I see no reason to use any other pistons with an engine you are basically keeping stock

Tom

[SVXRide]

has anyone done a cost comparison between buying new stock pistons and rings from Subaru vs Arias/CP/etc aftermarket? I kinda like the idea of getting stock pistons coated (dome) if it's cost effective.
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

.5mm oversized pistons w/ oversized rings will cost roughly $800-$900...

Tom

[SilverSpear]

Another alternative is going with STi rods and ARP bolts. Little more margin and you should be able to pick up some from over at NASIOC when they upgrade to aftermarket rods.

-Bill

The STi rods come in sets of 4 each. He needs 6 and not 4, just in case he buys 4 + 2 used off nasioc, doesn't he need to balance all 6? Or this is just applicable for brand new eagle rods?

[TomsSVX]

yes they need to weight matched... You would need to buy them and weigh them accordingly

Tom

[SVXRide]

.5mm oversized pistons w/ oversized rings will cost roughly $800-$900...

Tom

And forged aftermarket pistons w/rings run, what ~$1100-1200?

-Bill

[TomsSVX]

And forged aftermarket pistons w/rings run, what ~$1100-1200?

-Bill

depends on where you are getting them and what they are meant to do

Tom