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STeeL25T
07-15-2009, 04:26 PM
Making some some progress on my project so I wanted to make my very own thread! :)

Current plan is to rebuild my EG33 up for high boost, 5 speed swap, and eventually single turbo. Theres a parts list with prices in other build threads and I'm mostly doing the same thing so I won't keep track of prices here much, just what I buy and what I need mostly and show the progress as I go.

Information on the car: 1994 Laguna Blue LSi.

Current Mods: Koni/Ground Control coil overs, Rota wheels, full 5 speed swap installed minus transmission

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG1799.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/IM000572.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/IM000584.jpg


Engine parts purchased so far:

Custom built intake by Sicksubie
Used 8.5:1 CP pistons
2005 WRX transmission, blown 3rd gear.. Gotta fix this.
Eagle Rods with ARP 2000 bolts
ACL Race Series bearings
Block honed, decked .005, cleaned, crank balanced
New OEM water puml
All new gaskets
All new OEM hoses

Parts to buy:

Deasth Works 550cc Injectors
Outlaw Engineering spacers
Cometic head gaskets
Water to Air intercooler/heat exchanger good for 550 hp
Timing belt, idlers
ARP head studs, I need help with these!
Engine management, either eManage or MegaSquirt
And quite possibly, Delta Cams regrind.

Here is the motor as she sits now. I just got it on an engine stand, removed all accessories, intake and runners, engine harness, cam gears, valve cover, etc.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/Picture097-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/Picture100.jpg



Major snag right now is I am having a terrible time still trying to get the head bolts off... In fact, I think I stripped one... Any help here would also be great

TomsSVX
07-15-2009, 04:48 PM
12pt. 14mm socket. 1/2" drive with a big breaker bar. You will also need some 12pt. 12mm sockets for the block bolts and if you are using Eagle H-beam rods, the ARP fasteners have 12pt 7/16" heads. I only ever use 6pt sockets so I literally had to buy them for doing engines and engines alone.

Glad to see Porter's old car getting some more love. Did you get the pistons yet??

Tom

STeeL25T
07-15-2009, 06:02 PM
12pt. 14mm socket. 1/2" drive with a big breaker bar. You will also need some 12pt. 12mm sockets for the block bolts and if you are using Eagle H-beam rods, the ARP fasteners have 12pt 7/16" heads. I only ever use 6pt sockets so I literally had to buy them for doing engines and engines alone.

Glad to see Porter's old car getting some more love. Did you get the pistons yet??

Tom


Yes, I got them last Tuesday I believe. Theyre at my parents house so I haven't taken pictures yet.

STeeL25T
07-15-2009, 08:17 PM
I got all of the head bolts out on that one side except ONE... and its frustrating me to no end. I think its completely stripped, Ive done everything I can think of to do and the socket still pops off the end of the bolt every time. I have no idea how to get it out.

TomsSVX
07-15-2009, 08:22 PM
I got all of the head bolts out on that one side except ONE... and its frustrating me to no end. I think its completely stripped, Ive done everything I can think of to do and the socket still pops off the end of the bolt every time. I have no idea how to get it out.

Get a set of extractors. or find a way to cut it out

Tom

Johnybeas
07-16-2009, 09:06 PM
looks fun can't wait to see your results! you are gonna find all the issues so I don't have to deal with them! yay! hahaha jk jk

STeeL25T
07-16-2009, 09:08 PM
This is probably the beginning of a the greatest what NOT to do guide on the forum :lol:

STeeL25T
07-19-2009, 08:23 PM
Update for the work done today. Got the stuburn screw out after a couple hours of work, a dozen different tools, four different people, and two trips to two different parts stores. Here is what it looks like lol...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/005_256.jpg

Heres the cylinders and the head that looks a little funny to us, want to know what you gurus think as I'm not exactly an engineologist.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/003_910.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/006_789.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/007_916.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/008_126.jpg

My friend that help me take it off said it looked to him like a blown head gasket cause of the ring around those two cylinders and the white chalky stuff on the valves. My other friend whos a Subaru tech suggests its build up from low octane fuel.

TomsSVX
07-19-2009, 08:34 PM
I agree with the H/G leak being the issue.

Tom

STeeL25T
07-19-2009, 08:55 PM
Gotta love boxers... uhg, anyone want to loan me the tool to get the pistons out of there?

TomsSVX
07-19-2009, 09:00 PM
I made all my tools to do it. I am going to need them again in the short future so I cannot loan them out again.

Tom

STeeL25T
08-01-2009, 10:18 AM
Them gutz:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG1828.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG1829.jpg

Other than the fly wheel it should sit flat on the ground now. I gotta give the engine stand back today, so can annoy tell me if there's any harm in setting the motor down on a stack of beach towels? Or if you got a better Idea I'm all ears, I'm not sure what the stripped block weighs.

I may attempt to break apart the block after its set down. I get how you do it on an EJ22 but on this guy I'm guessing that needle nose pliers aren't going to reach the middle rods...

BoxerFanatic
08-01-2009, 12:07 PM
I'd maybe put some plastic or cardboard on the beach towels, or something. A bunch of oil soaked cotton lint is probably easier to avoid, rather than clean out of the block...

STeeL25T
08-01-2009, 01:00 PM
Its all coming apart anyway, but cardboard sounds like a better idea.

STeeL25T
08-09-2009, 09:13 AM
Borrowed these from a friend at the local Subaru dealership

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG1887.jpg

Pulled the first two C clips out the other day and couldn't get the pins out so I was about to make a tool when he offered to let me borrow the official stuff. I hope to have it all broke down later tonight, but we'll see. I bought the wrong size screw driver I guess cause it absolutely will not take those screws out that cover up the rear access ports so I gotta return it and get something with more volts.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG1888.jpg

TomsSVX
08-09-2009, 09:16 AM
Impact driver w/ a phillips. They are easily found at just about any autoparts store. That is the only way to get the cover screws out

Tom

STeeL25T
08-09-2009, 09:18 AM
Impact driver w/ a phillips. They are easily found at just about any autoparts store. That is the only way to get the cover screws out

Tom

He told me that, he mentioned they were cheap at Sears so I went there and the cheapest one they showed me was 250 dollars... I bought a 34 dollar one to just to see if it would work, that would be a negative haha.

TomsSVX
08-09-2009, 09:27 AM
He told me that, he mentioned they were cheap at Sears so I went there and the cheapest one they showed me was 250 dollars... I bought a 34 dollar one to just to see if it would work, that would be a negative haha.

No not an electric driver. It is a driver you hit with a hammer...

Tom

STeeL25T
08-09-2009, 09:40 AM
Shows what I know :lol: Thanks, now I know what I'm looking for.

TomsSVX
08-09-2009, 01:52 PM
Something like this... http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=1725&group_ID=223&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Doesn't have to be snap-on but the principle applies and it helps to have a picture

Tom

STeeL25T
08-09-2009, 06:39 PM
I've never seen or heard of one before today. Guess I've just never came across a job for one til now.

Bought one at Advanced and just got the job done. Had a bunch of trouble getting them out, lets call it an "insufficient hammer" problem... Solved with a 15 lbs curling weight :)

Front two pistons are out, I'm about to start on the back two... From the front I'm not seeing how exactly you pull the C clips out of the center two pistons because the front rod is blocking most of the way to it. I picked a hell of a motor for my first rebuild haha.

STeeL25T
08-10-2009, 06:08 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG1897.jpg

I was explaining to my friend that I was having difficulty with the center two pistons because the sliding part in the front of the tool was too short to reach them... To which he informed me there is actually a different tool for the 6 cylinders and he grabbed the wrong one :lol:

I'll try again with what I have after work today, I think I was making some progress. 4 pistons out, 2 to go.

STeeL25T
08-11-2009, 09:18 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG1899.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG1898.jpg

Hooray!

I'm SOOOO close to getting this done. Of all the stupid things to hold me up, I made the mistake of sticking my pipes together I've been using for a breaker bar the other day to use to beat my impact driver with and now their stuck and I can't get them apart... So I have nothing to break lose to very few bolts holding the block together now. I'll find something tomorrow to take car of it and be done with my break down!

STeeL25T
08-13-2009, 08:52 PM
Need some help here from the gurus. All the bolts are out, but the block will not separate. I've used my hammer, a rubber hammer, a dead blow hammer, it wont budge. So we tried to wedge it with my breaker bar in the front, nothing. We just tried putting my 700kg jack out of my Toyota between the bottoms of the back of the motor, it actually bent the jack and hasn't cracked in the slightest. How do you separate this thing?

TomsSVX
08-14-2009, 04:23 AM
There are 18 (I think) Internal main bolts to the block. They heave 12mm 12pt heads on them. There are also many 6pt 12mm bolts on the top of the block. There is a loner 12mm bolt inside the bell houisng and there is a 10mm bolt inside the crankcase. Also make sure you take off the oil pump. At this point it sounds like you are damaging the engine. DO NOT EVER just start using excessive force, take a step back and find out why

Tom

STeeL25T
08-14-2009, 05:54 AM
I pulled 22 bolts total out of the block. I got the 3 in front, the 1 on the bottom, and the 1 on the back, 7 from the top, the rest are all from the water jackets, counting the holes that appears to be 10. I just double checked and I don't see any that I missed, the thing is just good and stuck. Water pump is off.

We've been very careful not to damage anything, the guy on the Nasioc article I've been following is pictured used a huge metal sledge hammer, the ones we tried were rubber and plastic wrapped.

SVXelerator
08-14-2009, 03:34 PM
and you removed the oil pump?

TomsSVX
08-14-2009, 05:23 PM
If you need anything more than a light bump from a soft faced mallet... "You're doing it wrong" :lol:

Tom

STeeL25T
08-14-2009, 06:48 PM
Oops, I meant oil pump not water pump. I have no idea man, this motor has sealant everywhere between it, every single bolt should be out, but I've had two people give this a try and only the front part is showing the slightest indication that its starting to separate.

TomsSVX
08-14-2009, 07:04 PM
You got the bolt(s) inside the bellhousing right?? Also the two on the 1,3,5 side of the engine outside of the coolant jackets on the back end of the motor?


Tom

STeeL25T
08-14-2009, 07:47 PM
Doh.. Big surprise here, but Tom's right. I missed the two outside the water jackets on the back... I swear those were not mentioned in the NASIOC DIY tear down thread :lol:

Its all apart now. I'm new at this, should the crank shaft be resting inside a half of the block or is it ok to let it sit on its own?

TomsSVX
08-14-2009, 08:28 PM
Doh.. Big surprise here, but Tom's right. I missed the two outside the water jackets on the back... I swear those were not mentioned in the NASIOC DIY tear down thread :lol:

Its all apart now. I'm new at this, should the crank shaft be resting inside a half of the block or is it ok to let it sit on its own?

Thats because 99% of the clown on Nasioc have never touched an EG33:rolleyes: No less broken one down.

Tom

Phast SVX
08-15-2009, 08:12 AM
Thats because 99% of the clown on Nasioc have never touched an EG33:rolleyes: No less broken one down.

Tom

+1

I was ready to post the bellhousing bolts as well but Tom beat me to it. Dont listen to anyone on NASIOC! Because you will never know which response to weed through.

STeeL25T
08-17-2009, 07:49 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG1900.jpg

Just got this in the mail today

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG1921.jpg

I'm going to talk to R & R Speed Shop this week about doing the machine work and balancing on the block, I'll buy my bearings soon after and I'll be putting the bottom end back together when ever they are done. I hear they take a long time but they're the best we got here.

TomsSVX
08-17-2009, 10:49 PM
You are going to need the bearings before hand so they can spec the oil clearances at the machine shop

Tom'

STeeL25T
08-18-2009, 05:32 AM
Makes sense. I was just told I would need a rod and a piston for crank balancing so I went ahead and bought the rods. I think I read in LANs thread they set his bearings for him, I just wanted to talk to them this week and see all the things they can do and what its going to cost.

STeeL25T
09-14-2009, 06:23 PM
Monthly Update :)

I just dropped everything off at the machine shop. Having my the block milled flat, getting a full engine balance, honing the cylinders, and having my flywheel resurfaced. I wasn't exactly sure what all to tell them to do, if theres something I left of that list let me know since they probably won't start for a while. I have to wait for my ACL bearings to come in the mail to bring them.

I did not bring them my heads since I haven't done anything to them yet. I'm debating if I want to port the exhaust side... Gotta find a place that will do it first.. and then see if I can budget it.

STeeL25T
09-27-2009, 05:38 PM
Not much going on, bottom end is still at the machine shop.. So in the mean time I thought I'd mess with my intake.

Bought this custom intake from Sicksube a while ago, it remains to be seen how well its going to work so I'm not going crazy with it yet... Still, I want to have a pretty clean engine bay for once in my life and I don't plan on keeping the top engine cover so I want these pipes to looks nice and the welds on them have been bugging the crap out of me... So I am attemping to clean them up a bit with an angle grinder. Needless to say, I've never used one before haha. This is what I got so far.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG2033.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG2032.jpg

redlightningsvx
09-27-2009, 07:29 PM
If you want them really smooth use car glazing putty.

STeeL25T
09-28-2009, 05:34 AM
Never heard of it. To Google I go!

STeeL25T
10-03-2009, 09:56 AM
Back from the machine shop. Only thing he said was "sure is a big bore for such a small motor".

Assembly time?


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG2065.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG2067.jpg

StelthSvx
10-08-2009, 06:39 PM
great thread and pix!!!!!!!! do you mind posting what machine shop did and what each service cost. Its great to see guys man up and take on big projects like this for first time:D.....keep the photos comming

Johnybeas
10-09-2009, 02:44 AM
: ) : ) pretty! I like, can't wait to see it done and see how you run your plumbing for your turbo.

Also for those of us planning to do similar projects would you mind posting costs too?

STeeL25T
10-10-2009, 08:04 AM
There are probably better machine shops that specialize in Subarus out there you can find online. I didn't want to deal with crating it all up and shipping it out, hoping it didn't get damaged, and paying out the hind end. I asked around for what the best local machine shop was and was sent to R & R Speed Shop which is like a block from my house.

I forget where my actually receipt is right now, but I was charged 430 dollars even for hot tank cleaning, milling the block .005, full crank balance, cylinder hone, and they resurfaced my WRX flywheel.

I was going to put the bottom end back together this weekend but I forgot there are 4 gaskets inside the block til I took another look at LANs thread, so I have to wait til I but my full gasket rebuild kit. I have all my bearings here so I guess I could get started putting those in... If someone wanted to tell me how =)

STeeL25T
11-30-2009, 09:54 AM
This holiday season has me broke... But the discount code was too good for me to pass up so the gasket rebuild kit I've been waiting on it on its way to my door. I've yet to take my crank back to the machine shop but I'll do that by next week if I have some free time. Can't wait for school to let out so I can get started putting this thing back together.

By my count I'm roughly 830 bucks away from having a RUNNING motor again, not a finished motor though. That wouldn't count my engine management or injectors or the turbo, or my transmission rebuild I'm still trying to figure out, but I hope that won't end up being too bad. Even still, the block is in top shape, the whole bottom end is forged, every gasket is brand new, every hose is brand new, water pump is brand new (not sure if I'll but a new oil pump yet or not, mine seems fine). It should be fun if I can get it together.

Want to ask again what oils and lube you guys use when rebuilding these engines. I still don't have an answer.

Jonnycash
12-03-2009, 03:48 PM
Want to ask again what oils and lube you guys use when rebuilding these engines. I still don't have an answer.
great thread. I will be building one of these soon. This will be my first subie build, but not my first engine build. I have always coated my parts with STP oil treatment(small blue bottle). It is thick so it stays with the parts until its all done. Good luck, and keep us posted.

STeeL25T
12-04-2009, 08:25 AM
LANs thread mentions cromely assembly lube? or something like that. I've pulled my fair share of engines out of cars and I've done one hybrid swap, but this is my first time breaking a motor open and rebuilding it. Most I've done before this was a timing belt swap, so heaven help me haha.

RallyBob
12-04-2009, 09:06 AM
I like the Sealed Power assembly lube for all bearings and valvetrain parts, and Brad Penn 30-wt break-in oil (very high ZDDP) for the sump.

MadMaxSvx
12-04-2009, 09:32 AM
What kind of connecting rods are these?

STeeL25T
12-04-2009, 09:47 AM
A set of 6 EJ20/22/25 forged Eagle rods with ARP2000 bolts. Bearings are ACL race series.

STeeL25T
12-04-2009, 09:57 AM
I like the Sealed Power assembly lube for all bearings and valvetrain parts, and Brad Penn 30-wt break-in oil (very high ZDDP) for the sump.


I'm new to this, you'd also use the break in oil on the pistons whle installing things like that, right?

RallyBob
12-04-2009, 06:17 PM
I'm new to this, you'd also use the break in oil on the pistons while installing things like that, right?

Yes, oil only on the rings, no break-in lube there.

And no need to 'dip' the piston in oil like they used to do in the old days, just lightly coat the cylinders, the skirts, and the face of the rings before installation.

STeeL25T
01-17-2010, 08:13 PM
Nothing much going on, huge thanks to Cruisen_15 for getting me the correct trust bearing. I now have everything I need to put together my built short block, just waiting on my friend to come give me a hand with it cause I don't trust myself and he happens to have a tube of official Subaru block sealer.

I bought some headbolts but they weren't up to snuff, I may try and call ARP again this week and see what they can do for me. If they don't have the correct studs I'm just going to use OEM headbolts with Cometic gaskets.

Just something I'm doing to kill time, I'm hand sanding the valve covers and intake... the intake is taking quite a bit of time. Heres what I got so far.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG2274.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG2276.jpg

When all is said and done I think I'm going to do the valve covers in wrinkle blue, the intake will be chrome power coat.

SVXRide
01-17-2010, 09:35 PM
Can you say a little more about the headbolts you bought not "being up to snuff". I take it these were the ones you got from headbolts.com?
-Bill

STeeL25T
01-18-2010, 05:36 AM
Yea, mostly going off your advice. I another friend of mine told me that anything above grade 8 usually is not bound to any real set restrictions and China's 11.9 and Brazils 11.9 could be completely different, so I figured why risk it. Either go with the ARP which the world seems to know beyond a shadow of a doubt are better, or go with OEM which are made with quality and a factory warranty in mind.

STeeL25T
01-18-2010, 03:54 PM
ARP studs ship out tomorrow. They were a good bit cheaper than I was expecting so I hope they got everything right..

Advice to future buyers, they are going to tell you that the 6.750 studs do not exist. He had to call another shop of theirs that does custom work or something like that before he found it, it wasn't in their system at all though.

SVXRide
01-18-2010, 05:41 PM
Sounds good! Can you post up the ARP stock #s and quantities when the studs show up at your place (or now, if you already have them :cool:).
Thanks.
-Bill

STeeL25T
01-18-2010, 07:18 PM
He told me they won't ship out until tomorrow because where ever they currently are that isn't in their system, they have to be sent from there to their store and then all sent out together.

I have the numbers I asked for right here, I borrowed them all from the ARP thread on this very forum so I take no credit for it... Like wise I take no blame if it turns out they do not work as I've recently had that happen to me haha.

Qty of 8 - ATP7.700-2LUGB
Qty of 8 - ATP6.750-2LUGB
Qty of 16 - APN12,12 PT NUT
Qty of 16 - APW995N, WASHER

If I guess I'll find out first hand if they work or not.

Per LAN and OT, the front four still need to have 1/8" removed to clear our cam gears. How you go about doing that I don't know.

SVXRide
01-18-2010, 08:02 PM
He told me they won't ship out until tomorrow because where ever they currently are that isn't in their system, they have to be sent from there to their store and then all sent out together.

I have the numbers I asked for right here, I borrowed them all from the ARP thread on this very forum so I take no credit for it... Like wise I take no blame if it turns out they do not work as I've recently had that happen to me haha.

Qty of 8 - ATP7.700-2LUGB
Qty of 8 - ATP6.750-2LUGB
Qty of 16 - APN12,12 PT NUT
Qty of 16 - APW995N, WASHER

If I guess I'll find out first hand if they work or not.

Per LAN and OT, the front four still need to have 1/8" removed to clear our cam gears. How you go about doing that I don't know.

Thanks! Mind saying what they set you back ($) ?
-Bill

STeeL25T
01-19-2010, 09:11 AM
I don't remember, this was not a very informative phone call haha. It was either 274 or 284 bucks, SVXFiles told me it would be 320 dollars so I was surprised. He told me that before asking if I wanted it UPS ground so I'm figuring the shipping is not included in that. I wrote down the order confirmation number but I haven't found anything on their website that lets me enter that to check on my order. They didn't ask for my e-mail so I guess I won't know for sure til I get them at my door.

Sov13t
01-19-2010, 10:19 AM
Glad you made the right choice. Even though you still attempted those headbolts... :rolleyes: Parts vulture eh?

-Sov

STeeL25T
01-19-2010, 10:52 AM
With a 45 day return for any reason I couldn't think of a reason not to try it.

Vulture line is kind of a joke as several parts on my car that came straight off some off the well known SVX around here. I'm officially 3 parts away from having every part I need to finish the motor(spacers, head gaskets, timing belt kit...if I don't buy a new oil pump), then I start saving up to be I believe the first ever SVX or EG33 using a Keaniegenie aka 05+ Legacy GT Gears.

After that I'll drive an SVX for the first time in a year and a half and enjoy the carp out of it a couple months, then I need to decided if I'm going to split it up into 1.) MegaSquirt and 2.) Turbo or just do it all at once.

After those are done... We see how long it holds together haha

SVXRide
01-19-2010, 06:21 PM
I don't remember, this was not a very informative phone call haha. It was either 274 or 284 bucks, SVXFiles told me it would be 320 dollars so I was surprised. He told me that before asking if I wanted it UPS ground so I'm figuring the shipping is not included in that. I wrote down the order confirmation number but I haven't found anything on their website that lets me enter that to check on my order. They didn't ask for my e-mail so I guess I won't know for sure til I get them at my door.

Not a bad price, given the piece of mind they'll provide.:cool:
-Bill

jcimos
01-25-2010, 09:50 PM
That looks really great. I looked around are COMETIC head gasket the only head gasket for boosted setup?

cruisen_15
01-25-2010, 10:36 PM
That looks really great. I looked around are COMETIC head gasket the only head gasket for boosted setup?

well even if you were not going to boost your eg33 the cometic headgaskets are in everyway better than oem but yes youll want these if you plan to boost

jcimos
01-26-2010, 11:47 PM
Ok cool i figured as much. Thanks

STeeL25T
01-31-2010, 12:54 PM
Block is all together and sealed. Put in the first middle piston no problem, went for the next from one and had an issue... pulled it out and one of the rings fell apart in two pieces... So I'm a sad panda, and dead in the water till I can replace it.

No idea what kind of ring it was. Its marked N200, the pistons are CP I believe.

STeeL25T
02-03-2010, 07:04 PM
Where it sits:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG2277.jpg


For those of you that have done ARP studs, how did you modify the front four? As in what tools you used, how, etc. I don't want to mess them up and have them be unusable.

STeeL25T
02-18-2010, 10:33 AM
I got my new piston rings in the mail Monday, my Cometic gaskets apparently came yesterday but no one was there to sign for them so they took them back... Hopefully I'll catch them tonight.

I have every part I need to put the engine back together, though I still have to bring my heads to be milled flat before that happens.

Also, I really would like to know how you guys with ARP studs modified the front four to fit correctly.

STeeL25T
03-07-2010, 02:08 PM
Thanks... You guys are a lot of help..

I'll be buying the last few parts to complete my build next week. Now that I have everything for the engine minus the oil pump and timing belt kit I'm doing research on my trans. I believe I'll be purchasing my gears, a Group N trans mount, and a Spec Stage 3 clutch, with a Kart Boy short shifter combo to follow shortly after. With any luck I'll be driving for the first time in April.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG2361.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG2363.jpg

Phast SVX
03-11-2010, 05:21 PM
Looking good!

STeeL25T
03-27-2010, 10:13 AM
Yesterday was a great day for my car, bad day for my credit card :lol:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG2520.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG2521.jpg

95% percent of the engine goes together Monday night

Phast SVX
03-27-2010, 10:29 AM
sounds like you will have a fun day sunday. have you started fab on anything yet

SVXMAN2001
03-27-2010, 11:58 AM
Looking good! I am jealous. What did you use to get your valve covers so nice looking? I starting using a dremel and still couldn't get into the nooks and crannies like you did.

Also, in pic #68, do you have a source of where to get those long nose pliers? I've been trying for quite some to get one of those to remove the retainers for the piston pins, can't reach the middle pistons without it...

Again, congrats on your progress! Looking forward to the end results.

STeeL25T
03-27-2010, 01:15 PM
Nothing yet, I want to get car running and driving and broke in before I even get to that stage. Assuming the engine even turns out I believe this car had some issues before I got it with the tail lights not working since the 5 speed swap or something like that, so I need to go over it and see what works and what doesn't. I don't know if it even has a/c.

The covers aren't as good as they look in that pic haha, but I just used some spray on Purple Power degreaser on them to clean them off, and went about sanding them by hand, I think 320, 220, and 150... Whatever Wal-Mart had haha.

I have a can of VHT Krinkle Black I want to use on the valve covers, exhaust manifolds, and bottom part of the intake manifold. I'm hoping my brother will volunteer his oven for it, cause the fiance says ours is off limits.

edit:

Oh, and the pliers and wrist pin puller I'm using are official Subaru tools my friend let me borrow who works for the dealer. However, while I was looking for an impact driver I believe I saw an identical set of pliers for sale at Advanced Auto Parts in the same isle.

STeeL25T
03-28-2010, 07:06 PM
Loaded the WRX trans in my car to drop off tomorrow, I have no idea what the rebuild is going to cost me but I'm optimistic since I'm providing the parts and they wont have to remove or reinstall, just labor.

Got on Subaruparts.com and ordered the last of my OEM parts. Two parts left to buy on my list =) ...Although I'm not looking forward to the clutch..

mbtoloczko
03-28-2010, 07:29 PM
Are you getting a Hydra Nemesis for engine control?

STeeL25T
03-29-2010, 12:32 PM
I would prefer to get on my hands and knees and beg Tom to let me mail him the new plug and play MegaSquirt that fits our stock connector and see what he can do with it. Not only cause its cheaper but because I don't know anyone within a few hundred miles of me thats a Hydra tuner.

mbtoloczko
03-29-2010, 02:19 PM
I thought the Hydra included software to allow you to tune it yourself like an AEM EMS.

TomsSVX
03-29-2010, 04:34 PM
I thought the Hydra included software to allow you to tune it yourself like an AEM EMS.

It does... most people wouldn't know where to start with tuning in general though so as a precaution I have recomended they get it tuned by a professional... I don't lock my maps, so they could use the map I give them as a starting point

Tom

mbtoloczko
03-29-2010, 05:41 PM
It does... most people wouldn't know where to start with tuning in general though so as a precaution I have recomended they get it tuned by a professional... I don't lock my maps, so they could use the map I give them as a starting point

Tom

ok, I guess the lack of tuning skill does make sense for the SVX community. Great that you don't lock your maps. Do you have the MegaSquirt adapted to the SVX and have a set of base maps for it?

TomsSVX
03-29-2010, 05:43 PM
ok, I guess the lack of tuning skill does make sense for the SVX community. Great that you don't lock your maps. Do you have the MegaSquirt adapted to the SVX and have a set of base maps for it?

nope. offered to try for someone but they never sent the unit

Tom

mbtoloczko
03-29-2010, 05:49 PM
nope. offered to try for someone but they never sent the unit

Tom

I imagine that adapting a Megasquirt would be a fair bit of work because you'd have to figure out the sensor calibrations. I imagine you'd set it up as speed density (is there even a MAF option with MS?). Did you happen to obtain or measure the sensor response info when you were working with Hydra?

TomsSVX
03-29-2010, 05:51 PM
what response info are you looking for...

It won't be too bad setting up the MS w/ the position sensors... Just run a std 24 tooth wheel setup with an aux trigger for cam position.

Tom

mbtoloczko
03-29-2010, 06:10 PM
what response info are you looking for...

It won't be too bad setting up the MS w/ the position sensors... Just run a std 24 tooth wheel setup with an aux trigger for cam position.

Tom

Thought you might try to use all the OEM sensors, but sounds like you'd just go with all the aftermarket sensors that people typically use with the MS.

TomsSVX
03-29-2010, 06:15 PM
Thought you might try to use all the OEM sensors, but sounds like you'd just go with all the aftermarket sensors that people typically use with the MS.

No, use the stock sensors... Just adjusting the trigger type

Tom

mbtoloczko
03-29-2010, 06:30 PM
No, use the stock sensors... Just adjusting the trigger type

Tom

ok, maybe not as bad as I though. If you go SD, then I imagine you'd use a GM 3 bar and a GM IAT sensor for SD duties, and those calibrations are readily available. You've got cam and crank figured out. NB O2 are all the same, so nothing to worry about there. That leaves the resistance vs temp curve for the OEM coolant temp sensor, and I suppose you'd have to figure out the idle air control valve response characteristics. Would you try to control the plenum separation valve? Have you looked at whether the MS can fire the factory ignition system? And of course it would be great to work out knock sensing if the MS supports it.

TomsSVX
03-29-2010, 06:59 PM
with enough work it can be done... No one is going to do it for free, which means it will likely not be wanted... That was the point of using the Hydra Nemesis... Plug-n-play w/ base maps... People don't realize what they are getting when they buy

Tom

mbtoloczko
03-29-2010, 07:41 PM
with enough work it can be done... No one is going to do it for free, which means it will likely not be wanted... That was the point of using the Hydra Nemesis... Plug-n-play w/ base maps... People don't realize what they are getting when they buy

Tom

Strongly agree with that statement. Don't think that people realize that while the MS is a good price, the effort required to adapt it is much higher.

STeeL25T
04-01-2010, 04:46 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/CIMG2523.jpg

Everything was going smoothly until Jesse said to me, "Do you have a 12 point deep well 1/2 inch?" ... Damn ARPs... Finally found one at our FIFTH stop (If you don't have one, don't waste your time looking... Go straight to Sears).

So we'll try again Monday. I'm going to order my timing belt today and hope I can get it by then so we can set the timing, after that I can finish it on my own. I'll be putting on the water pump and cross over pipe in the mean time.

SilverSpear
04-01-2010, 05:11 AM
Excuse my noobness, but what is a 12 point deep well 1/2 inch? :o

STeeL25T
04-01-2010, 05:29 AM
The socket you need to put on ARP nuts. Which is not the 14mm I used for the stock head bolts.

SilverSpear
04-01-2010, 05:34 AM
The socket you need to put on ARP nuts. Which is not the 14mm I used for the stock head bolts.

Oh ok, thanks :)

STeeL25T
04-14-2010, 07:27 PM
Well, if it's not one thing it's another... Got the head torqued down, water pumps on, cross over pipes on, put in the cams and tightened them up, went to set the timing, and the passengers side wont budge. We spend 30 minutes loosening and tightening different combos to find it was the bottom cam, still can't figure out why it won't turn... Turns out when I got my head studs shortened, it wasn't quite enough... Scraped the "A" right off ARP. I guess I'm making yet another trip to the machine shop to cut it down some more.

STeeL25T
05-11-2010, 08:37 AM
Nothing new to report yet. I'm probably going to get set back a bit as something came up and I needed to move all my junk out of the garage, so me and some friends moved everything to my parents garage. Had to happen sooner or later since thats where my car is stored so thats good, but now I have to un pack everything and try and sort it again.

I also bent the ever loving crap out of my passenger side (I think) oil line on the head while moving the motor and its going to have to be replaced...

STeeL25T
08-02-2010, 09:05 AM
I haven't updated for over 100 days... I have seriously been slacking.

I've been stuck on my transmission rebuild, since the case is opened no shop will touch it here. I got a friend and attempted to just put everything back in well enough that maybe a shop would just take a look at it, but the thing was in quite a bit more pieces than I was hoping... No idea where a lot of it goes. So, defeated, I sent an e-mail to AndrewTech. I hope they can salvage it, I really don't want to buy another trans..

Also... I got my Hydra Nemesis in the mail =)

Sov13t
08-03-2010, 08:20 PM
Keep at it man... good progress.

Johnybeas
08-07-2010, 06:05 PM
I haven't updated for over 100 days... I have seriously been slacking.

I've been stuck on my transmission rebuild, since the case is opened no shop will touch it here. I got a friend and attempted to just put everything back in well enough that maybe a shop would just take a look at it, but the thing was in quite a bit more pieces than I was hoping... No idea where a lot of it goes. So, defeated, I sent an e-mail to AndrewTech. I hope they can salvage it, I really don't want to buy another trans..

Also... I got my Hydra Nemesis in the mail =)

good luck and good choice on the hydra, I'm just finishing up dealing with hydra and we'll be takin over where tom left off so you'll still have support for hydra and we'll be releasing new maps for turboed svxs once we finish the build.
AndrewTech knows there stuff and does good work, are you upgrading internals or just having them put back together the one you have?

STeeL25T
08-08-2010, 04:04 PM
I have all the parts to upgrade gears 1-4 with larger and batter ratio Legacy GT gears, though from the looks of it the its going to be some replacement parts my upgrade kit didn't come with. If that doesn't hold the power I may go back to some kind of auto or something, I'm not paying for a dog box.

STeeL25T
08-21-2010, 07:53 PM
Transmission is now sitting at Subaru dealer =) Should have it back before long. I just need to set my timing and buy my clutch and this is a done deal.



At least until I have to buy my turbo... And injectors... And intercooler... Bah, I'm only getting started lol

NeedForSpeed
08-22-2010, 11:12 AM
I have all the parts to upgrade gears 1-4 with larger and batter ratio Legacy GT gears, though from the looks of it the its going to be some replacement parts my upgrade kit didn't come with. If that doesn't hold the power I may go back to some kind of auto or something, I'm not paying for a dog box.

How much for the upgrade kit? From Subaru? Works with 02-05 WRX 5MT transmissions?

Nice work so far :)

STeeL25T
08-22-2010, 09:08 PM
I bought it as a whole kit from here http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-1686-2005-2008-legacy-gt-1st-4th-gear-set.aspx because while there are part numbers online for what you need, there isn't really a definied list of everything you need. I wish I thought to write down what all was included in my box and you could probably take it to 1stsubaruparts.com and save yourself at least 100 dollars. Well see what I get back with the trans.

It swaps into all early WRX trans, I chose an 05 because I hear they're the strongest and they also need the least parts to upgraded to these gears. There's several threads on NASIOC about going to LGT gears for 1-2, I got 1-4 because my trans has a blown 3rd but other wise I'd have left it. The theory is that these gears are the same as V.6 STi Non-RA gears... No one can exactly prove that, but it's been confirmed they are identical as far as teeth thickness and gear ratios. Not doing the last gears keeps your 3.90 final drive.

STeeL25T
09-04-2010, 01:17 PM
Small bit of progress today:

The motor is now perfectly timed =) However, after a long crusade it appears I have lost a couple of bolts in the move to the new garage... And one of them is for a idler pulley... So can't go any further there until I order a new one.

Speaking of ordering a new one, my intake manifold is a complete cluster. I bought all new hoses to replace the dry rotted and broken ones, but they really only slightly resemble what the old ones look like... Frankly I have no idea where to put them, and the ones that are broken off way up... I have no clue where they go. It's going to be fun. If your looking at the manifold from the bottom side, diagonal on the other side from where the three metal hoses come though, well whatever that thing is bolted to the bottom has both nipples broken off so I'll need a new one of it. The large black box in the middle, the two hoses just kinda pull out of it.. Not sure if thats supposed to happen =)

Oh well, progress is progress. I discover a shifter and Subaru 6 CD Disc changer in my car I didnt know were there haha, so I can hold off on the Kartboy and perhaps sell the CD player to help cover the massive cost of my clutch since I think I'm just going to put my gauges and various switchs on a panel in there to keep them hidden away and clean looking.

longassname
09-04-2010, 05:52 PM
If you look towards the end of my engine build how to thread you will find some pictures of my manifold with new hoses on it. They should be big enough for you to follow the hose routing on them. You can also do it in front of the subaruparts.com website and use the part numbers on the packages of the hoses.

Small bit of progress today:

The motor is now perfectly timed =) However, after a long crusade it appears I have lost a couple of bolts in the move to the new garage... And one of them is for a idler pulley... So can't go any further there until I order a new one.

Speaking of ordering a new one, my intake manifold is a complete cluster. I bought all new hoses to replace the dry rotted and broken ones, but they really only slightly resemble what the old ones look like... Frankly I have no idea where to put them, and the ones that are broken off way up... I have no clue where they go. It's going to be fun. If your looking at the manifold from the bottom side, diagonal on the other side from where the three metal hoses come though, well whatever that thing is bolted to the bottom has both nipples broken off so I'll need a new one of it. The large black box in the middle, the two hoses just kinda pull out of it.. Not sure if thats supposed to happen =)

Oh well, progress is progress. I discover a shifter and Subaru 6 CD Disc changer in my car I didnt know were there haha, so I can hold off on the Kartboy and perhaps sell the CD player to help cover the massive cost of my clutch since I think I'm just going to put my gauges and various switchs on a panel in there to keep them hidden away and clean looking.

STeeL25T
09-05-2010, 09:55 AM
Thanks LAN! I'll check that out.

Also, I think I've mentioned before that I can't get the two sensors out of my old oil pump and I'm not sure how to go about it without damaging them, so I was like oh well I'll just buy new ones while I was buying those bolts I was missing and that new valve (I at least *think* I bought the right one..), where I saw those sensors are 174 dollars each... Now I'm depressed again haha

Johnybeas
09-05-2010, 05:16 PM
Thanks LAN! I'll check that out.

Also, I think I've mentioned before that I can't get the two sensors out of my old oil pump and I'm not sure how to go about it without damaging them, so I was like oh well I'll just buy new ones while I was buying those bolts I was missing and that new valve (I at least *think* I bought the right one..), where I saw those sensors are 174 dollars each... Now I'm depressed again haha

sensors=suck they are always mad expensive

Johnybeas
10-10-2010, 01:56 AM
bump for updates

STeeL25T
10-10-2010, 08:03 AM
Sorry, I've been majorly slow lately. I had a scare with my transmission where the guy told the guy who referred him to me (since I didn't get his number, guess he lost mine) that something came up and he couldn't fix it... Then after calling him several times over the next two weeks he wasn't returning my calls. Luckily though he did call me back last week and said he was going to do it still since I told him I'm in no real rush, motor still isn't back together yet... And rather than buy my clutch I'm debating buying another SVX next weekend... Like I really need ANOTHER project car haha.

I'll let you know when something major happens. It sucks to be so close to finishing and just kinda waiting around for parts for weeks. Next free day I get maybe I'll try and tackle some more engine work.

cruisen_15
10-12-2010, 12:58 PM
i figured you would have beat me but my motor is already built and my tranny rebuilt, im almost ready to throw it in and start it up on stock ecu for now

STeeL25T
10-12-2010, 09:48 PM
YOU SUCK! :)

It's been a crazy summer to say the least. I'll get there one of these days..

STeeL25T
12-24-2010, 03:00 PM
Just reporting to report that I have nothing to report... My father died in November and I've been trying to handle all the mess that comes along with that ever since.


Got a hold of the guy with my trans the other day who told me he still has yet to do anything on it... I asked him if he expected it to take longer than a month for him to get to at this point cause if so I'm just going to come get the goddamn thing and mail it to Andrewtech like I should have done 5 months ago... He said he'd "let me know" as it got closer.

cruisen_15
12-25-2010, 12:12 AM
im sorry for your loss! that reallly sucks to hear man!

i built my trans in like 2 weeks, it really wasnt that hard, you need a shop press though... looks like you might catch back up to me since im most likely taking back apart my engine, it seems to be burning oil badly. SHAME on ME!:o

STeeL25T
01-08-2011, 10:52 AM
OMG! I DID SOMETHING! Not much, but progress is progress :)

First good news is you may or may not remember but I bought a 92 caged, 5 speed 92 SVX track car with a spare motor here a few months back. Thought it'd be a fun car to play around in and I may could use some the spare parts to save me some time and money, mainly I had in mind the 400+ dollars worth of sensors in the oil pump which mine seems to be fused in permanently. I was disheartened to see the spare motor didnt come with an oil pump a long time ago, so I'd given up hope.. but today while going through all the bags of unsorted odds and ends that came with the car I managed to find just the sensors I needed =)

The motor is for all purposes complete, I just need to tension the belt (timing is set) and put on the intake and exhaust manifolds and valve covers. As you may remember I got stuck on replacing several of the broken hoses on the intake manifold, had no clue where they went. I had nothing but time this morning so I set about finding all the pictures I could of the bottom of the intake and went to work. I found that the reason I was so confused is because there were two valves missing from the intake. I went around and looked from them to no luck for a while, before making the correct assumption that I probably took the lazy way out and they're still connected to the harness :lol:

So now, it looks like everything is hooked up on the bottom WITH THE EXCEPTION OF:

The big black box (vacuum tank) has at least one broken nipple ($55 dollars on Subaruparts)
The valve beside it (purge control solonoid) has BOTH nipples broken off... ($130 part...)


I was hoping you guys could give me some good news and say I don't really need these parts. I saw a post while searching from LAN that suggest the PCV one way valve closes when it detected positive pressure... Which I'm going to have running a turbo. Any of you turbo guys have any info on this?

92 SVX
01-08-2011, 12:29 PM
I hope that purge control solenoid is not too important, when I got my car the hose going from the front side of the throttle body down under the intake was so bad I removed it from the nipple and it broke the nipple on the purge control, I ended up plugging off that top nipple and and running it as it is.

Johnybeas
01-09-2011, 10:52 AM
OMG! I DID SOMETHING! Not much, but progress is progress :)

First good news is you may or may not remember but I bought a 92 caged, 5 speed 92 SVX track car with a spare motor here a few months back. Thought it'd be a fun car to play around in and I may could use some the spare parts to save me some time and money, mainly I had in mind the 400+ dollars worth of sensors in the oil pump which mine seems to be fused in permanently. I was disheartened to see the spare motor didnt come with an oil pump a long time ago, so I'd given up hope.. but today while going through all the bags of unsorted odds and ends that came with the car I managed to find just the sensors I needed =)

The motor is for all purposes complete, I just need to tension the belt (timing is set) and put on the intake and exhaust manifolds and valve covers. As you may remember I got stuck on replacing several of the broken hoses on the intake manifold, had no clue where they went. I had nothing but time this morning so I set about finding all the pictures I could of the bottom of the intake and went to work. I found that the reason I was so confused is because there were two valves missing from the intake. I went around and looked from them to no luck for a while, before making the correct assumption that I probably took the lazy way out and they're still connected to the harness :lol:

So now, it looks like everything is hooked up on the bottom WITH THE EXCEPTION OF:

The big black box (vacuum tank) has at least one broken nipple ($55 dollars on Subaruparts)
The valve beside it (purge control solonoid) has BOTH nipples broken off... ($130 part...)


I was hoping you guys could give me some good news and say I don't really need these parts. I saw a post while searching from LAN that suggest the PCV one way valve closes when it detected positive pressure... Which I'm going to have running a turbo. Any of you turbo guys have any info on this?
:pics::pics::pics::pics:

STeeL25T
01-09-2011, 11:28 AM
I need some help on this purge control solenoid thingy. I've spent about an hour going through and following all the lines to see if I can remove it. Best I can conclude, the purge control solenoid has the two plastic nipples (both of mine are broken), CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG, but I believe one goes to the charcoal canister (specifically the upper metal hose, with the lower going to to the fuel tank) while the other nipple goes up and connects here as seen in this photo taken by Icingdeath.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14817&stc=1&d=1294117776

Assuming all that is true and correct, and I remove my charcoal canister (its already removed from my white car), then in theory this valve would serve no purpose and I could save myself 130 dollars by not replacing it... Right? My only issue with that is that of course it has a harness plug going into it... That would probably cause some issues if it were unplugged. I can't recirculate it back on itself since the connections are broken off. Any advice?




The PCV I finally understand and I'll be ditching it later today when I can run by Auto Zone.

icingdeath88
01-09-2011, 01:28 PM
Yea mine is running fine with that line blocked off and the charcoal canister removed. It's still plugged in though.

Also, that's not my pic, I stole it from an older thread and added the arrow.

Cam
01-09-2011, 01:31 PM
I imagine if it was unplugged it would interrupt the current in the circuit by leaving it open. Probably would throw a CEL. No idea if you could close the circuit physically on the harness to trick the ECU into thinking it was still functioning properly. But, even with the nipples broken off, you should be able to block them, and plug the harness into the solenoid.

STeeL25T
01-09-2011, 10:43 PM
I put in an order for a handful of parts this morning, seems like pretty much everything that was removed from the car already when I bought it has its bolts magically missing... So I have some new ones for the timing belt tensioner and the water pump outlet, as well as a new vacuum tank... Though really I'm not sure why since keeping the IRIS in may not help me out any when the turbo goes on.

Guess I'll take a break again til those arrive. I may take this time to paint my valve covers and go ahead and install those, however the can says it should be used in temperatures over 60 degrees.... And right now we have 6 inchs of snow on the ground :lol:

I feel like I'm getting really close to the end, yet really until my trans situation is resolved I'll still be dead in the water.

STeeL25T
01-26-2011, 03:46 PM
As of 10 minutes ago:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/IM000829.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/IM000830.jpg


Quick question... I see that the timing belt tentioners mounting holes are kinda flat top oval shaped that let it slide left and right when the bolts are tightened... Do you want to tighten them down all the way to the left or all the way to the right?

The massive tube sticking out the back is for the crankcase breather, I'll cut it to an acceptable length when I get everything settled where its supposed to go back there.

Few other very minor things keeping me from doing anything else, but I'll handle those next time I run to the parts store. I've made enough already for one day haha

icingdeath88
01-26-2011, 04:30 PM
Nice progress bro. So how will the crankcase breather work exactly? Is there a valve involved or what?

STeeL25T
01-26-2011, 04:46 PM
I'm not exactly sure myself :) I followed LANs instructions as best I could from this thread:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8655&highlight=turbo+pcv&page=3


On a stock SVX, it comes out of the block into an F shaped connector, with the one of the two ends going to the PCV on the bottom of the intake manifold and the other plugging in to the bottom of the intake accordion hose closest to the throttle bodies.

On mine, I simply plugged the PCV and intake opening with the caps he mentioned, and ran one tube straight out of the opening in the block. I have a 9 dollar Advanced Auto Parts breather filter to go on the other end of the tube.

If any of this is completely wrong, now would be the time to correct me haha

icingdeath88
01-26-2011, 05:01 PM
Makes sense to me. The filter is what makes it ok, since just leaving it open would allow whatever nasty crap in the engine bay to wander into the crankcase.

STeeL25T
02-23-2011, 09:18 AM
Got a bit side tracked. Sold my Civic daily and picked up an absolutely beautiful 240sx. Almost flawless. Everyone is demanding I drop an LS1 in it or something, and in the very least I keep shopping around for Z32 brakes and some shiny 5 lug wheels... But I must remind myself I have a project already :lol:


Any of you turbo guys (or others just smarter in these matters than myself) have and suggestions for spark plugs? I ran some form of NGKs on my last turbo car and they always seemed fine. A part number would be great since I thats all I brought to the store last time and they had them ordered in no time.

STeeL25T
03-01-2011, 08:04 PM
Lots of help! Thats good... Haha. Cause I need moar.


Last dumb question of the week... Is there an easy way to get that old gasket off the oil pan? It's being a huge pain.



I went out get something from the garage today, saw the motor, and got inspired to work on it again. Got some carb cleaner and cleaned all the gunk out of the throttle bodies and reinstalled them, hooked up two connectors and some hoses I'm fairly sure are in the right place haha, will have to check. All the internals inside the pan are back on, just have to get the pan smooth to reinstall it with the new black gasket maker. While I had the motor flipped over I attempted to replace the power steering line I bent.. Two bolts, nothing to it... then I over tightened one and cut the head of it... Not exactly sure how I'm getting it out of there now...

While it doesn't seem like much, somehow this took me like 2 hours...

STeeL25T
09-27-2011, 02:13 PM
Long time, no update. Since the last update I landed me a fantastic job and bought a house. That's had me tied up for a bit, but I'm getting back on the horse.

Update soon :)

STeeL25T
11-02-2011, 12:07 PM
I now have a 2005 Saab 9-2X transmission with 80k miles sitting in my garage. That marks off my last major component :) So close I can almost taste it.

icingdeath88
11-02-2011, 12:12 PM
Nice. Looking forward to seeing some pics :)

STeeL25T
11-08-2011, 07:43 AM
Had a look at the motor yesterday during band practice and realized it's been so long since I've messed with it I forgot what I was doing on it :lol:

Went over to try and get my mind right on it today, see what was done, what needed to be done, whats still missing I didn't remember was missing, etc. I picked up some NGK V Powers and installed those and got the those wired up, as well as ran the front harness under my intake and plugged all those in where they looked like they logically went anyway... I think that makes it so the only plugs not plugged in at the moment are one block temp sensor under the intake, a long hard bendable wire that I believe I've deteremined will plug into a sensor on my AC thingy, and something near the injectors on the passenger side of the motor I don't really know where it goes haha... I'm hoping power steering pump or something once thats all in place.

Couldn't remember how the accessories went on or at least in what order so I left it at that for now. I need to order two bolts that hold on my oil filler cap as I can't seem to locate mine, and I need to pick up some ammonia as the internet tells me is the best way to strip the black RTV gasket off my oil pan.

I also have a handful of vacuum lines to either run or block off... Thats the only thing I'm really dreading right now. I know some aren't going to be used as I ditched some stuff in favor of a crank case breather, some should go to intake tube that isn't on yet, and the coolant through/across the throttle bodies and I may end up getting rid of that system. Where the rest of them go is a good guess to me..

icingdeath88
11-08-2011, 10:39 AM
Ok, for the little vacuum lines, I have a very good idea of how I'm going to run mine, and I suspect it's similar to what you're going to do.

Here's an OBD 2 vacuum diagram (I am about 90% sure that items 1, 2, and 3 are absent in the earlier cars and that's all that's different):

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15752&d=1318952113

The EGR will be completely deleted, and any codes will be dealt with by plugging in the solenoid (#11) and temp sensor, and stuffing them under the manifold. A bolt in the exhaust manifold, blocking off the port at the intake manifold, and blocking off the little lines on the top of the throttle body (marked R and P) and that's done. The rest will go in the junk pile. There are a lot of little hard lines that can also be removed.

The charcoal canister will also be deleted, with just the purge solenoid (# 10) plugged into the harness to prevent a code. The line will be blocked off where it first enters the engine bay from the fuel tank. Make sure and block off the right one, the line from the fuel pump and the fuel return line are also there. Also, as much of the hard line in and around the manifold as possible will be removed. Then block off the line on top of the throttle body that it leads to it (diagram shows a line that splits into two, but there's only one).

The IRIS system will be left in place, and so will the FPR (obviously). Items 5, 6, 7, 8, and 12 and the associated lines. You should also make sure the IRIS check valve (#8) is in good shape, they tend to break in half when you take off the manifold.

The big vacuum lines, I am either going to use a air/oil separator of this type (goes where the oil cap goes: http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=60_54_103&products_id=191 or just vent them with crankcase breather filters. The only real reason I'd rather do the AOS is that two little filters sticking up out of the valve cover breather tubes would just look silly. With the AOS, a PCV is still needed, but I'd definitely ditch the stock location one and put a bolt in the manifold where it goes. Then put a different (read: cheap and easily replaced) one somewhere more accessible inline withe the big line out of the AOS. You can also just vent only the crankcase, and leave the big vac lines from the valve cover breathers to the plastic intake box just before the throttle bodies like stock, but not when it's running boost.

The AACV, and IACV lines need to be left alone.

I already bypassed the coolant throttle body lines. Very easy and straightforward.

There is a wire that plugs into the P/S pump, that's probably what that one is.

STeeL25T
11-08-2011, 12:55 PM
That is remarkable helpful. Thank you very much!

I know my vacuum tank is brand new, I remember replacing it. The big thing in the center that goes to the charcol canister according to that picture I also remember blocking off.

aust92pearl
11-08-2011, 04:30 PM
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15752&d=1318952113



just a random question but what does the diaphram (no.6) actually do ?
that is the only hose that i could find that wasnt connected properly (hose broke in half ) on my engine
would that contribute to my car stalling out when put into gear ?

i know it doesnt matter much anymore now that i have many thousands of repair work :(
just wondering

icingdeath88
11-08-2011, 07:34 PM
just a random question but what does the diaphram (no.6) actually do ?
that is the only hose that i could find that wasnt connected properly (hose broke in half ) on my engine
would that contribute to my car stalling out when put into gear ?

i know it doesnt matter much anymore now that i have many thousands of repair work :(
just wondering

If it were broken there, it probably wouldn't cause your issue. Vac line is cheap and easily sourced, just replace it and move on.

That diaphragm closes the IRIS butterfly (like the things that open and close in a throttle body) to separate the two halves of the intake manifold, between 2000-ish and 4000-ish RPMs. If it's not working you could expect to feel a noticeable loss of torque in that range.

aust92pearl
11-08-2011, 08:08 PM
If it were broken there, it probably wouldn't cause your issue. Vac line is cheap and easily sourced, just replace it and move on.

That diaphragm closes the IRIS butterfly (like the things that open and close in a throttle body) to separate the two halves of the intake manifold, between 2000-ish and 4000-ish RPMs. If it's not working you could expect to feel a noticeable loss of torque in that range.

ah ok so it was more then likely something in the trans (im going 5 speed before i get it back on the road anyway ),
just thought id ask

yeah i did notice it felt less touque at those rpms , i tried to put new hose on but my hands are too big to squeeze into there to get the old hose off let alone get new hose back on again:rolleyes:

i guess il just pull the manifold off when im putting the 5 speed in and put all new vac hoses on

thanks

icingdeath88
11-08-2011, 09:12 PM
ah ok so it was more then likely something in the trans (im going 5 speed before i get it back on the road anyway ),
just thought id ask

yeah i did notice it felt less touque at those rpms , i tried to put new hose on but my hands are too big to squeeze into there to get the old hose off let alone get new hose back on again:rolleyes:

i guess il just pull the manifold off when im putting the 5 speed in and put all new vac hoses on

thanks

I remember reading that it's easier to pull the manifold by unbolting the lower intake manifold (the part with the injectors) from the heads, rather than just the plenum from the lower manifold. Less chance of breaking things or something. You should have new gaskets on hand before doing that.

1986nate
11-08-2011, 09:24 PM
I remember reading that it's easier to pull the manifold by unbolting the lower intake manifold (the part with the injectors) from the heads, rather than just the plenum from the lower manifold. Less chance of breaking things or something. You should have new gaskets on hand before doing that.

Was it me who said that? :P
IMO it's just a lot quicker and easier.

icingdeath88
11-08-2011, 10:33 PM
Was it me who said that? :P
IMO it's just a lot quicker and easier.

Yea it probably was. It seems easier, after having done it once the other way already :lol:. At least the engine was out of the car, so it was easy because of that.

aust92pearl
11-08-2011, 11:03 PM
I remember reading that it's easier to pull the manifold by unbolting the lower intake manifold (the part with the injectors) from the heads, rather than just the plenum from the lower manifold. Less chance of breaking things or something. You should have new gaskets on hand before doing that.

oh , that does sound a little easier , maybe i should get some of the outlaw things when i do it (they come with new gaskets for it dont they ?)


oh and sorry for the thread hijack :o

CobraJet
11-09-2011, 04:01 AM
I now have a 2005 Saab 9-2X transmission with 80k miles sitting in my garage. That marks off my last major component :) So close I can almost taste it.

New guy here, sorry if this seems like a dumb question....... :o

I just caught this, did I miss something? How does a Saab trans fit into this subject? Is it some sort of heavy duty solution or ......?

michael
11-09-2011, 04:45 AM
Saab 92x = Subaru Impreza

Huskymaniac
11-09-2011, 08:38 AM
Saab 92x = Subaru Impreza

Do they make a WRX variant?

icingdeath88
11-09-2011, 08:44 AM
Do they make a WRX variant?

9-2X Aero = 2.0T WRX
9-2X Linear = 2.5 Impreza

They are pretty cool. Less weird looking than the subaru versions, but still sharing all of the important parts.

1986nate
11-09-2011, 10:06 AM
9-2X Aero = 2.0T WRX
9-2X Linear = 2.5 Impreza

They are pretty cool. Less weird looking than the subaru versions, but still sharing all of the important parts.

Pretty common for the Saab guys to swap in the Subaru body parts actually. Also, the Saab versions are much easier to find with leather, and even heated leather.

CobraJet
11-10-2011, 04:58 AM
Same parts eh, ..... dang! I was hoping the Saab was going to be some magical super auto trans that would hold up to turbocharging the EG33. Oh well, the quest goes on.......

LetItSnow
11-10-2011, 06:26 AM
STeeL: Breather for the crankcase, with forced induction? Sounds like a recipe for an oil-soaked engine bay.

icingdeath88
11-10-2011, 08:49 AM
STeeL: Breather for the crankcase, with forced induction? Sounds like a recipe for an oil-soaked engine bay.

It doesn't seem like he's going FI right away.

STeeL25T
11-10-2011, 11:53 AM
True. For the moment I'd just like to get it driving... I've owned it for literally years now and have never once driven it as I bought it with a broken timing belt and without a transmission. I'll find something else to do with it when I can afford the turbo parts and injectors.

I am picking up a heat exchanger out of an 04 Cobra tomorrow though :)

1986nate
11-10-2011, 02:51 PM
Same parts eh, ..... dang! I was hoping the Saab was going to be some magical super auto trans that would hold up to turbocharging the EG33. Oh well, the quest goes on.......

Auto trans won't work anyway. It's a phase 2

CobraJet
11-11-2011, 07:54 AM
Would one of the later model autoboxes mate up to the engine and hold up to turbo power?

STeeL25T
11-20-2011, 04:14 PM
At the end of today :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/379736_10150377041313596_501223595_8467068_1194582 524_n.jpg

Pretty happy with the progress. It looks like the entire front half of the motor is nearly done. The only main thing being the power steering pump, which for whatever reason we left hook up in the engine bay... I may go yank that out.

Solved a lot of the vacuum tube issues. Don't hate me for asking this after you already posted such an awesome guide, but I just want to show you what I'm seeing on the back passenger side of my motor. As I'm OBDI I missing what I think is labeled the BPT on the picture (or I just removed it and don't remember) so I'd like to know what to do with these.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/381942_10150377040918596_501223595_8467064_8470722 58_n.jpg


The lines I circled in orange and blue I'm assuming to go the tubes on the throttle bodies labeled R and P, though I'm still not terrible sure what to do with them. Is whats circled in red the pressure regulator that needs to be connected to the manifold nipple circled in pink?

icingdeath88
11-20-2011, 05:02 PM
As I'm OBDI I missing what I think is labeled the BPT on the picture (or I just removed it and don't remember) so I'd like to know what to do with these.

Yea, you don't have any of that junk. From the EGR temp sensor, this is a 94 or 95 engine though, so you'll have to leave the EGR solenoid and temp sensor attached if you're planning to delete the EGR.

The lines I circled in orange and blue I'm assuming to go the tubes on the throttle bodies labeled R and P, though I'm still not terrible sure what to do with them. Is whats circled in red the pressure regulator that needs to be connected to the manifold nipple circled in pink?

Orange and blue I'm pretty sure you're right. Are you deleting the EGR at this point or no?

Red definitely does connect to pink.

STeeL25T
11-20-2011, 05:08 PM
I wouldn't mind removing it if I don't need it.

Also I have a Hydra, if that's important.

icingdeath88
11-20-2011, 05:16 PM
It is very important, because I don't think the hydra will even use the EGR, so there's no point in keeping it. And you can toss the solenoid (which you'd have to pull the intake mani to get to anyway, so don't bother) and the temp sensor.

Yea, I'd get rid of it all. Just block off the lines at the TB and the exhaust and intake ports to the EGR. Remember man, all that stuff is just taking up space that would be better used for turbo piping. Not important now, but you'll be thanking yourself later.

STeeL25T
11-23-2011, 09:11 AM
Probably a bad time to be spending money on things I don't need, but I have a WRX Momo steering wheel on the way to my door :)

Going to try and find some time tomorrow to finish up the motor if I'm not in a food coma.

STeeL25T
11-28-2011, 08:18 AM
Nevermind, I think I found answers to both of my question haha.

I'm so close to dropping this motor back in the car I can almost taste it :)

STeeL25T
12-03-2011, 11:49 AM
http://efilogics.com/motorsports/eg33rs/engine.JPG

In this image it appears as though he routed the R and P cooloant lines on the throttle body into each other. Is this something we all can do or something he can pull off because its modified beyond belief?

STeeL25T
12-03-2011, 04:35 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/388593_10150401845783596_501223595_8549410_3867179 2_n.jpg


At long last.... Done :)

icingdeath88
12-03-2011, 04:58 PM
Nice, congrats. I have that same oil cap. :)

The coolant lines on the throttle body can be bypassed. They are used to keep the throttle body warm so that in the winter freezing cold air doesn't condense in the throttle bodies and freeze the butterflies stuck open or closed. I have them bypassed in my car year-round because it doesn't get that cold here. The benefit is that colder intake air can only help with power. Some people switch it back and forth between summer and winter.

icingdeath88
12-03-2011, 05:01 PM
Oh, sorry I misunderstood. R an P are the vac lines for the EGR. What that guy's done is basically the same as blocking them off.

STeeL25T
12-04-2011, 08:01 AM
Thanks! My mistake, I don't know why I said coolant lines haha.

I bought the belt for the a/c compressor but my friend helping me out said that those need to be taken apart and oiled and what not when they're removed and turned upside down or else they'll burn up.. Never heard that before, but I figure I'll be safe and leave it off for the time being. Might get ultimately removed at some point in the future anyway.

We got to the point where we can't go any further without an engine hoist, so hopefully we can track one down and get back at it next weekend.


I got some questions on the transmission if you have any input. I'm *assuming* the front axles on my car are 02 WRX, as I'm pretty sure that's the trans that was in my car before I bought it. They do not appear as though they fit into my 05 WRX trans, they both look female. Is there another part that goes between them, am I looking at it wrong, or do I just need to go buy new axles?

Also I guess I'll have to go take a picture of it to show you what I have I guess, but my trans came with no shifter linkage but there at least part of one from the old trans in the car. Its got the shifter with the knob on it and two bars attached on bottom. I'd like to try and find a picture of a trans with this all connected because I'm fairly sure theres something significant I'm missing, no luck with that so far...

icingdeath88
12-04-2011, 10:59 AM
I got some questions on the transmission if you have any input. I'm *assuming* the front axles on my car are 02 WRX, as I'm pretty sure that's the trans that was in my car before I bought it. They do not appear as though they fit into my 05 WRX trans, they both look female. Is there another part that goes between them, am I looking at it wrong, or do I just need to go buy new axles?

Do you still have the old trans? I think there are stubs that are male-male that pop into the trans that should make those axles work. Search around or ask on nasioc, I have definitely seen the answer before over there.

The SVX axles are also female on the end that connects to the trans, so you might have those. SVX axles seem to be used in both 5-speed and 6-speed swaps, front and rear.

That reminds me, you did quadruple-check that the rear diff is the same ratio as the new trans, right?

I have heard that A/C compressors need compressor oil, but I don't . My blue car has been without A/C since I bought it a year ago. I have all of the components to add it back, but I haven't gotten around to it yet, and I probably won't until after winter. But the other one has A/C so I just use it on really hot days.

There's not much else to the shifter linkage other than that. Two bushings at the end where it attaches to the trans. The bottom linkage connects to the body of the car at the back of the hole for the shifter. The shifter has a ball at the bottom that fits into the bottom linkage. The upper linkage connects to the shifter higher up. That's it for a 5-speed. A 6-speed also has the reverse lockout mechanism.

dragoontwo
12-04-2011, 11:32 AM
That reminds me, you did quadruple-check that the rear diff is the CORRECT ratio FOR the new trans, right?

Fixed.

The differential doesn't match the front differential ratio. It compliments the front and center differential. '02-'05 WRX have 3.54 rear ends and 3.9 front end with 1.1:1 center.

STeeL25T
12-04-2011, 11:51 AM
From the pictures I've seen since posting I do not appear to have the rubber boot that goes around the lever the slave is next/connected to, probably what mounts the slave to it, and I done have the big bracket at the front the dog bone hooks to. No vehicle speed sensor in the trans so I'm hoping theres on connected to something hanging under my car. The starter I have looks like it will work, though no clue where the bolts to it are..

Essentially, I have none of this

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/197912730_o.jpg

STeeL25T
01-19-2012, 10:25 AM
Holidays are over, tuition paid, so it's time to get back to work.

I still don't have my transmission wired and sensored up like it should be, I'll be putting some more time into this over the weekend... But for now, I have a brand new Exedy OEM clutch recommended by a member in the drivetrain thread on it way to my door. I shipped it SuperSaver because I'm cheap so I'm guessing the middle of next week I should have it. Only thing I'm debating now should I order a KartBoy short shifter and bushings now or wait and do it later... Does anyone know if its a big hassle to do once the trans is in the car?


In the rice department, I picked up a brand new OEM Momo shift knob and a used Corbeau racing seat with sliders out of a Honda, they're either Civic or Accord.. Can't remember. I'm more than likely going to try and sell it for more than I got it for because I was told before I went to see it that it was the microsuede version and it turns out it wasn't, but it was still a good price so I got it anyway to test fit in the car and on myself haha.

STeeL25T
01-19-2012, 10:46 AM
EDIT: I don't have the factory short shifter, so Kartboy shifter and bushings are on their way. Also ordred a new transmission harness which I'm at least fairly sure I don't have along with two other OEM clutch parts from subaruparts.com, though it's doubtful they are going to make it here by the weekend.

STeeL25T
01-24-2012, 12:56 PM
Got all the parts in hand except for the new Group N mounts I ordered today. Ready to go hopefully get this heart transplant underway this weekend.


I want to drive this car so bad I can taste it.

STeeL25T
01-28-2012, 06:52 PM
Got a lot of little things done today. I installed the Kartboy short shifter, plugged up my last two loose vacuum lines, corrected two things I dun goofed on, installed the exhaust manifolds and messed around with the motor mounts. Tried one of each just to eye ball it.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/428607_10150512403763596_501223595_8961352_1620032 942_n.jpg

I've only seen two people who say you are fine using the Impreza mounts, a few more say it raises it a bit but don't seem to imply thats a big problem. My only issue is I don't have a means to mod the stock brackets to work here so I want to go with either one or the other until the car can drive, then I'll drive it over to my friends shop with a welder and a 4 post lift and make a permanent solution then. Which do you recommend going with in the mean time? I kinda want to try the Group Ns just to see if the hood closes.

Unfortunately my Subaruparts order was back ordered all week and won't be here til next Wednesday... I can't seem to find my Group N trans mount I bought a year ago or more.. And the oil catch cans I got only accept a line thats exactly the same size as the PCV "F" shaped fitting, so I'm trying to find something either smaller to go inside both of them or bigger to go over both of them to make a good seal.

IF I CAN FINALLY DRAG SOMEONE OUT TO GIVE ME A HAND... I'll get the motor on the hoist and off the stand tomorrow and do the flywheel and clutch, maybe attach the transmission if theres time. I don't guess I can put it in til I get those parts on Wednesday.

aust92pearl
01-28-2012, 08:21 PM
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/428607_10150512403763596_501223595_8961352_1620032 942_n.jpg

I've only seen two people who say you are fine using the Impreza mounts, a few more say it raises it a bit but don't seem to imply thats a big problem. My only issue is I don't have a means to mod the stock brackets to work here so I want to go with either one or the other until the car can drive, then I'll drive it over to my friends shop with a welder and a 4 post lift and make a permanent solution then. Which do you recommend going with in the mean time? I kinda want to try the Group Ns just to see if the hood closes.



when i got my group n's put in the mech said the hood would not close the way they were so me and dad had to cut and make a little spacer thing for the stock svx mount plates ,
you dont have a vice a permanent marker and a grinder ?
just use the svx ones and mod the svx plates at your friends shop

icingdeath88
01-29-2012, 04:44 AM
I am pretty sure that the only reasons the group N's fit on my blue car is because the hood sound deadening stuff is long gone (and maybe because I have no A/C or belt cover), and mostly because of the slightly different trans mount I have for the 6-speed. Everything sits just a tad differently.

Just modify the SVX mount brackets. I have been meaning to get a spare set to do that with for mine.

STeeL25T
01-29-2012, 03:02 PM
Boosh.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/431452_10150515221153596_501223595_8973432_1457365 112_n.jpg

aust92pearl
01-30-2012, 12:36 AM
Boosh.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/431452_10150515221153596_501223595_8973432_1457365 112_n.jpg

oooooooooooohh shiney
can i has a shiney :rolleyes::cool::lol:

CobraJet
01-30-2012, 06:40 AM
.......
I want to drive this car so bad I can taste it.

So far I've been lurking in the background, watching and waiting. I too can't wait to see how this goes. :cool:

Your engine build looks like just the recipe I've been looking for to build one of these for myself. The only thing is, mine will be going into something besides an SVX, smaller and lighter.

;)

STeeL25T
01-30-2012, 09:41 AM
I certainly hope you can get through it faster than I have haha. I wish you luck! I'm hoping to get my SVX 250 lbs lighter than stock at least, but its still going to be quite heavy. It's the nature of the beast.

I'm going to go to the part store tomorrow and pick up some brand new 2005 axles, a new battery, and all the fluids for the car. If my prayers to the car gods are answered, I'll be driving it around next week or the week after at the latest :) To minimize my points of failure I'm going to run it on the stock computer for a couple hundred miles for the break in and before I break the Hyrda out of the box. Probably dump the trans fluid and replace it the the cocktail off Grimmspeed around that time too, well have to see how its shifting.

Then I guess I start saving for the turbo parts and do the install over the summer.

STeeL25T
02-01-2012, 07:59 PM
Things were going so well. Got the parts I ordered sooner than expected, me and my room mate got to work as soon as I got off work. Redid the clutch and flywheel now torqued to spec and with brand OEM bolts. The cap over the pin that holds the fork in the transmission was already off and I had no problems finding a bolt to fit in the pin to pull it out like I thought would give me a problem. Had a minor issue with being outsmarted by the engine hoist, but eventually got it settled, engine on the ground safely, and prepared to put everything together... And thats when I discovered I was missing oooonnnnnee more thing I thought I had: Transmission bolts -_-

So, here she sits.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/424031_10150522874803596_501223595_8991787_9326424 45_n.jpg

Guess I'll call Subaru tomorrow and pray.

STeeL25T
02-06-2012, 09:29 AM
Had some devestating news on Saturday that hopefully is now good, or at least not nearly as bad news :lol:

I got my Subuar tech friend over again to get the engine 100% together and complete, and he discovered that my new transmission was stuck in 4th gear... This news was pretty harsh considering how close I thought I was to finally reviving this car. I loaded it up and dropped it off at Mr Transmission to see what they had to say. Luckily, they just called me and said they took the back off and got it shifting good again. Seems like it got jammed during shipping or something, but nothing they see looks bent... So I told them to seal it back up and well roll with it :) Hopefully that work out for a good while.

STeeL25T
02-13-2012, 07:59 AM
At long last, I got my heart back in the right place :D

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/422121_10150548700153596_501223595_9063821_6805206 60_n.jpg

My only before shot. For future reference, see that intake pipe? Remove it before you try and reinstall your engine... Also the dog bone. I should also mention after this photo we put the motor back down and got it facing the right direction and added another chain. Motor was just at a weird angle so I could use the lift hold up the trand when we put it on, couldn't get it where it needed to be in the garage.


Annnnnd here she sits.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/407905_10150548701218596_501223595_9063835_1232290 853_n.jpg

Right now its just sittting with the mounts in the holes and a jack on the trans. It was in the 20's last night and dark and I said screw it let's get some margaritas :)


Need to put on the transmission brace, hook everyhting up, install the axles and drive shaft, radiator, fill it up with fluids, and we should be good to go.

icingdeath88
02-13-2012, 09:35 AM
Nice job man. It feels good to get it back together doesn't it?

What did you end up doing with the motor mounts?

STeeL25T
02-13-2012, 10:31 AM
Currently on the stock mounts. I'm hoping it wont be mega difficult to swap them over later. At least I'll have access to a lift.

Subaru Alliance
02-13-2012, 10:40 AM
very nice, I am excited for you. I am slightly retarded when it comes to turbo's meaning everything should have one, including my push mower. Anyways, can't wait to read about it being on the road.

STeeL25T
02-13-2012, 10:58 AM
It's been years since I've had a turbo car to drive around and I miss it terribly. Just the sound that they make when they spool and watching the need on the boost gauge climb as the car just darts forward. I'm hoping to get back there soon, but for now I'll settle for having an AWD car to drive around before the snow falls here. The south damn near goes into anarchy when we get 1 inch of snow... Not even then, if the news just says we WILL get an inch of snow whether it ends up happening or not, all the schools shut down, over passed blocked, trucks everywhere blasting salt, and every store in the city sells out of milk and bread. I have no idea why people want milk sandwiches so bad when they see snow.

CobraJet
02-14-2012, 08:08 AM
This is getting better by the minute!

I too can't wait to see how it goes. It should be awesome. :cool:

You will be shooting a minute or two of video to share with us once it is settled and running well, right? :D

STeeL25T
02-14-2012, 08:08 AM
I won't get to mess with anything major until the weekend, but in the mean time I managed to locate my Group N transmission mount I bought over a year ago and managed to lose at some point haha. I was about to just forget it and fill the stock one with window weld... Which I probably should have just done in the first place as it would likely be as good or better :)

STeeL25T
02-15-2012, 08:01 PM
This is getting better by the minute!

I too can't wait to see how it goes. It should be awesome. :cool:

You will be shooting a minute or two of video to share with us once it is settled and running well, right? :D



Absolutely.



Enjoyed the breeze and perfect temperature and had some relaxing car time today. A refreshing change, since usually its frustrating and often painful haha. Bad news is I can't seem to locate the four bolts on the bottom of the trans that connect to the brace, and I didn't look but I'm assuming also the bolts that hold the brace to the chassis.

Good news I got just about all the connectors and hoses plugged in, radiator is in, motor mounts and dog bone bolted on, as well as the shifter bushings. Got a few more mysteries to solve but I'm glad to have all the major stuff behind me.

And this sure is a sight for sore eyes:

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/421471_10150556342458596_501223595_9084204_2224180 25_n.jpg

LetItSnow
02-15-2012, 09:03 PM
From my experience, you might consider picking up another shift surround and relocating that lock button a little north and a little left of where it is. It'll take a little planning due to the coordination underneath, but with it further out, it will better accommodate a boot when you install it.

Lookin' good!

Subaru Alliance
02-15-2012, 10:31 PM
very nice man, I am jealous, can't wait to do the manual trans conversion on mine

STeeL25T
02-21-2012, 12:59 PM
Reporting in to report that no progress has been made :\ I've found as a rule of thumb that if something was not attached to my car when I bought it, then I don't have the bolts for it... And it's been more accurate than I want to admit. I'm down to missing what I *hope* are the last twelve bolts from my car: Four on the drive shaft and 8 on the transmission crossmember brace. I ordered 6 of those Wednesday night I believe, to my knowledge they haven't shipped yet. Thanks to SVXFiles I'm going to try and track down 4 of them locally.


Only other major thing is to put in my front axles, which I'll be honest.. I don't know how to do :lol: I got some brand new Empi 05 axles waiting if I haven't said that before. Keep hoping to trick someone else into doing it for me lol.



I think the motor will start right now if I put in some oil and attach a battery. It would just be zero wheel drive...

STeeL25T
02-23-2012, 09:33 PM
Worked on the car for almost two hours... But I did so little I don't even remember what I did :lol:

I for sure bought an upper radiator hose (now just missing the cap..) and a brand new battery, hoods back on and a few more lines attached to the motor. One major thing was I got the motor aligned correctly finally. I notices before while I was under the car that while the studs were in the holes, theres also a nub like thing on the mount that should also be in the hole as well and one side of mine wasn't on. Now that it's in, the holes on my transmission brace seem to line up a lot better... Though the bolts won't be here til next week -_-

Went ahead and put the driveshaft into the trans and intended to bolt in the middle section but those aren't quite lining up either... I gave up when my arm went numb from holding it up so I'll deal with that later.


I got my HID kit in the mail and was going to try that, but I don't see how you guys are getting your bulbs into the housing without modifying it. Maybe you are and I misread the plug and play nature of these things.

Also, I'm still stuck on my slave cylinder. It appears to be fully extended and it refuses to compress, preventing me from bolting it to the transmission... Any idea on this?

Subaru Alliance
02-24-2012, 03:47 PM
doesn't it compress when you push the clutch pedal? Not sure but I thought the trans off a turbo pulls when the clutch is pushed and the non turbo trans pushes? or something like that. hope that helps at least a little

icingdeath88
02-24-2012, 04:47 PM
Also, I'm still stuck on my slave cylinder. It appears to be fully extended and it refuses to compress, preventing me from bolting it to the transmission... Any idea on this?

It is a pull-style clutch, correct? You are supposed to start with the clutch fork on the throw-out bearing, but the throw-out bearing not in the pressure plate yet, and the fork angled with the top forward, so that the throw-out bearing is far away from the pressure plate. Then, put the slave cylinder on, then pop the clutch fork backwards to snap the throw-out bearing into the pressure plate. Then, you're good to go.

If you already have it together so that you can't do that, then there are work-arounds.

dragoontwo
02-25-2012, 08:50 AM
doesn't it compress when you push the clutch pedal? Not sure but I thought the trans off a turbo pulls when the clutch is pushed and the non turbo trans pushes? or something like that. hope that helps at least a little

The slave cylinder doesn't pull the piston in, if that's what you mean. The pulling is still done by the fork, Subaru flips the slave to the other side to move the fork in the pulling direction.

STeeL25T
02-27-2012, 08:55 AM
If you already have it together so that you can't do that, then there are work-arounds.

Think I need to find a work around...


If you hadn't seen in the trouble shooting section, the car is running :) ... Just not in any useable manner haha. I'll update again this week once I hopefully iron out an issue or two and get the transmission operating.

icingdeath88
02-27-2012, 11:14 AM
Ok, for the clutch fork, here's what I did. Ghetto, and definitely the wrong way, but got the job done and the car together. You will need a buddy, who is not an idiot, a pipe (I used a sort of big jack lever thing), and the slave cylinder and bolts ready to go. I would suggest running the line to it from the master cyl before actually bolting it in, because once it's in there it's hard to bleed it and such.

The clutch fork must be seated properly in the throw out bearing, as well as the rod that it pivots on and holds it in the transmission. Basically, if the slave cylinder were there, it would be completely done.

Take off the intake, and move any hoses or anything out of the way. Put the pipe on the end of the clutch fork, straight up. Pull the pipe toward the front of the car, so that the clutch fork pivots like it would when you push down the clutch pedal with everything together. Then, CAREFULLY (because if the clutch fork comes loose or your buddy lets go, the fork will snap back and could probably do a good amount of damage to your person) put the slave cylinder where it goes and bolt it in, making sure that the little finger that goes in the groove on the fork stays in position. Then you have your buddy slowly release the clutch fork back into position. Good to go.

*Disclaimer: I highly recommend not doing any of this and just taking it apart and putting it together the normal way. It is much safer that way.*

STeeL25T
03-01-2012, 09:26 PM
Ordered a slave for a 2005, seeing as I have an 05 transmission. When I went to install it tonight I couldn't help but notice it looks a bit different than the one I pulled off... And then I noticed I had no idea how to attach the line to it. That lead me to do some searching and I believe the slave I removed was actually from an 2006, where the slave and whatever the other thing is are all together. The 2005 one I have requires me to buy some other part, I don't even know what you would call it, in order to be installed :\

I think I'm just to try and return it and order an 06. Yay for more delays..

STeeL25T
03-13-2012, 05:23 PM
All issues sorted out for the time being other than my slave cylinder. After buying and returning two, I got a third one that at least resembles the one that came off the car (but still not exactly like it). I went a head and installed it and spent a little over and hour doing everything I could thing of and the internet could tell me, but I'm still getting zero pressure on my clutch pedal. It will spit a couple drops of fluid from the bleeder and you can hear some air come out every now and again, but nothing significant and the pedal still buries itself in the floor... No movement at all at the clutch fork. Hmm...

icingdeath88
03-13-2012, 05:58 PM
All issues sorted out for the time being other than my slave cylinder. After buying and returning two, I got a third one that at least resembles the one that came off the car (but still not exactly like it). I went a head and installed it and spent a little over and hour doing everything I could thing of and the internet could tell me, but I'm still getting zero pressure on my clutch pedal. It will spit a couple drops of fluid from the bleeder and you can hear some air come out every now and again, but nothing significant and the pedal still buries itself in the floor... No movement at all at the clutch fork. Hmm...

Post some pics of this mess.

When I first put mine together, I had to adjust the length of the plunger for the master cylinder to just the right length for it to work right. (The part that connects the movement of the pedal to the movement of the master cylinder). Try making the plunger longer, and if that doesn't work, try making it shorter. Make sure also that the master cylinder is bolted down all the way to the pedal box.

STeeL25T
03-14-2012, 08:02 AM
What exactly do you want to see pictures of?

Tapani
03-14-2012, 09:25 AM
It will spit a couple drops of fluid from the bleeder and you can hear some air come out every now and again, but nothing significant and the pedal still buries itself in the floor... No movement at all at the clutch fork. Hmm...

You probably have some air still in the system. How much lower does the slave sit compared to the master? I do not know where exactly the slave is.... if there is a height difference, gravity bleed the system by leaving the bleeder open for long enough to get a nice even flow thru the system (also leave the reservoir open). Make sure you do not starve the reservoir. Catch the fuild and make sure that you let it run at least the full volume of the whole system.

If there's not enough "head" in the system (height difference) you have to make a pressure bleeder from an old reservoir cap. Drill a hole in it and pull a tubeless tire valve body thru it (no valve inside). Screw the cap on and use a pressure source gently to force a fuild flow thru the system. This will bleed the whole thing including the master cylinder in no time at all. Remember not to starve the reservoir again.

If this doesn't help I have had the return spring broken in the master cylinder bore.... the piston will not return far enough to get "a refill" from the reservoir.

I have an old Rover from 1975 which can not be bled by the conventional pump-method.... but will gravity bleed while you have your coffee ;). My old faithfull Saab 9000 turbo had to be pressure bled, so I made the system discribed above.

Good luck,

Tapani

Tapani
03-14-2012, 09:55 AM
One more thing to check... the push rod from the pedal to the master cylinder piston has to be of correct length as Ice discribed below.... if is too long the master cyl piston will not return far enough (fully against the circlip) and again the master will not get "a refill". The small hole from the resevoir to the cylinder will be blocked by the seal lip.

See if the push rod is adjustable and make sure there is a small dead movement before the push rod touches the piston (pedal fully retracted). The fully retracted pedal position might also be adjustable....

If this is your problem you need to bleed the system properly after fixing it.

Tapani

icingdeath88
03-14-2012, 09:59 AM
What exactly do you want to see pictures of?

Whatever you want to take pictures of, man.

STeeL25T
03-14-2012, 10:10 AM
Something I just thought of: I disconnected the old slave clyinder over a week ago and the cylinder has still been holding fluid in it this whole time with the line just hanging. No real fluid every came out of the line when it was disconnected.

Tapani
03-14-2012, 10:13 AM
Something I just thought of: I disconnected the old slave clyinder over a week ago and the cylinder has still been holding fluid in it this whole time with the line just hanging. No real fluid every came out of the line when it was disconnected.

You mean the master? This points toward the pushrod being too long.... or the cap is too tight :) i.e. vent hole plugged.... or the internal return spring broken.

You might be able to see the feed hole in the bottom of the reservoir.... or if it is blocked by the seal lip - piston not in a fully returned position.

Tapani

STeeL25T
03-19-2012, 09:56 AM
Everything we have tried is getting us no where, so I ordered a new master cylinder. Should be here tomorrow... Let's see if it helps.

Tapani
03-19-2012, 10:32 AM
Have you tried bleeding the master only? Do you get flow if you disconnect the line from the master? I have had to bleed the master separately in my hand (1982 Range Rover)... with the outlet pointing a bit upwards... cover the connection with your finger and then bleed by using you finger as "a bleed screw" :rolleyes:.

Tapani

STeeL25T
03-19-2012, 10:34 AM
We disconnected the line from the master, sucked all the fluid out of it the scraped around the bottom with a hook then refilled, and then finally hooked it all back up and attached a power bleeder on an air compressor on the slave and still got nothing out of it.

Tapani
03-19-2012, 11:21 AM
The power bleeder sucks thru the whole system, correct? You have a new master on the way, but one thing is to check if you can get a flow from the master only.... Did you disconnect the push rod to make sure it returns all the way? The master can be taken apart too... The return spring can be broken. Another issue to check: The flexible hose might have collapsed internally totally blocking it. That's happened too. Tapani

STeeL25T
03-21-2012, 07:45 AM
Made some progress! .. How much I'm not exactly sure yet.

I removed the old master cylinder and put in a new Autozone one with a lifetime warranty, which sucked a very large amount to install. It still isn't completley bolted to the firewall as for whatever reason one of the bolt has the tip broken off of it and won't thread and the other just feels like its spinning.

Anywho, with this new one I instantly noticed an improvment. It's now dumping out plenty of fluid from the bleeder (I left covered in the stuff..) and the slave cylinder is moving and moving like a boss. We got to a point though where the pressure just like of plateaued and wasn't getting any better even if we bled it 4 more times after. It makes the pedal raise to about the level of where my brake pedal is now, but it will still pull up a good bit higher if you put your foot under it and pull up. I noticed the large cap on the bottom of the master was not tight and letting fluid out of there... In the car it appears to be almost impossible to get a set of channel locks around it to tighten it but I got it to move maybe a milimeter and it's at least leaking less now.

Any who I thought I would see if the car would at least more an inch under its own power since the slave was working even if the pedal was not ideal. Getting the car on the ground for the first time with an engine in it.. Doesn't look right. The front end of the car is lower than my knees. Some of this I attribute to low tires but I don't think all of it. But the moral of this story is when I tried to fire it up it wouldn't start.... No clicking at all.. So I gotta look at it again in the day light. I suspect wires are messed up on my relay or my battery is low since I accidently left the cables on it last Sunday.

STeeL25T
03-21-2012, 08:06 PM
Guess whos little girl crossed the street all by herself today? They grow up so fast :) #proudparent

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/549063_10150625380483596_501223595_9310604_1188967 141_n.jpg

CobraJet
03-22-2012, 07:19 AM
Congratulations, I'll bet that feels good!

STeeL25T
03-22-2012, 07:47 AM
It felt amazing. I did the math and figured I've owned this car for 3 years, 1 month, and 21 days before I ever got to drive it... So it's been long over due :)


Some known issues so far:

- No speedometer, which I expected since I don't have a speed sensor in my transmission haha. Think I could buy a used SVX one here and have it work in the WRX trans? I think I remember that as being what people normally do.

- Issues with my rear lights. I traded for SolarSVX's LED tail lights but they don't quite fit into the car, the opening isn't quite big enough so I need to take a dremel or something to it to figure out how those are working. Have not checked my reverse lights but I assume they don't work because I don't think they wires on the trans are hooked to anything. The two brake lights in the center for some reason glow even when the lights are off and the key is removed. Only way to stop it is to disconnect the battery.

Gotta get my exhaust on better and sealed up correctly. I think I'm going to redo the front passenger side of my power steering lines with new hoses because there is always a puddle under my car there every time I look at it. I need to experiment with it some more and see what all it does and doesn't do. And it needs tires and a bath like crazy.

STeeL25T
03-27-2012, 08:13 AM
Bad news, as I feared would show up sooner or later knowing my luck.... Car appears to be down again in a bad way. Not exactly sure why.

Attempting to take it on my first drive across town I saw it was getting hot before I ever left my neighborhood, took it back home and saw the radiator was nearly empty. Added 6 or 7 cups of water before it filled up and it was boiling by that point.

The next day it tried to start it it was making a constant tapping noise... I can't tell from where but it sounds to me like flywheel or clutch, hopefully not rods... The power steering pump was also making noise and I figure my constant leak must have made the fluid low so I went ahead and pulled out the radiator for more room and replaces the two lines that were leaking with new hoses and clamps and refilled the pump with some better quaility fluid with StopLeak, then reinstalled the radiator with my new silicone hoses and filled it to the top with water again. Next time I started the car it was still tapping, then turned it off and back on and the sound was gone, so I drove it across town to have dinner with some friends. Shound note that this dayh my idle was much lower, about 500 or a little higher. When I left it was tapping again but driving without any other problem I know of, I took a video of the sound it was making while driving but my exhaust leak drowns it out for almost all of it. When I pull up in the driveway the idle is low enough for it to die on its own when I stop, but I leave it for the day.

I come back the next day and it starts up twice without moving, the tapping is worse than before and the car won't idle for crap. Then the third time, nothing. Car won't start. The fuel pump is on, the starter goes, but it just kind of makes a thud every time it turns and the car never starts. I thought it was ruined at this point, but I try it the next day and again it starts first try but dies shortly and won't start again. Thud thud thud. At a friends suggestion I went and installed a new fuel filter yesterday and dumped some injector cleaner in the gas tank. Again, it started up first try, ran for about 3 seconds, died, wouldn't start again.

Sorry for the long story, but that's been my depressing weekend. I can only imagine something bad has happened..

TomsSVX
03-27-2012, 09:52 AM
Drop the pan...pickup and seperator plate... take a look at the big end of the rods and check for heat marks... oil pres light on?

Tom

STeeL25T
03-27-2012, 10:43 AM
No. The check engine light has been coming on but I haven't been able to get the codes. I apparently suck at finding the black connector. And I have a draw on my battery somewhere so I keep taking the cable off and it clears them every time.

STeeL25T
05-02-2012, 09:12 AM
In terms of the non running state of my car, there are good days and bad days... Last night I would describe and an "inbetween day", since it actually fired up every time... But it ran worse than I've ever heard it. Took a video of one of my attempts at turning it on. To explain what I'm doing in this video, I'm starting the car in neutrel with the gas pedal completely floored and it stays on the ground the entire video...

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v299/NightKids2/?action=view&current=VIDEO0036.mp4

Notice it won't go much over 1000 rpms and then sinks like a stone. The last time I tried to start it up it wouldn't fire up at all, the time before that it fired up and would stay running as long as you were giving it a little bit of gas. It's very fickle.

STeeL25T
05-08-2012, 08:31 AM
Actually runs better with the MAF unplugged. That means ones of two things that I'm aware of, and I don't think the MAF suddenly went bad.

redlightningsvx
05-08-2012, 09:27 AM
Mine went bad out of no where.

STeeL25T
05-08-2012, 09:31 AM
I guess it's possible. I tried to rule it out by installing my Hydra, but after a couple hours in the hot sun and getting nothing I gave up... Could have something to do with the fact I didn't bother with installing or configuring the wideband, but it said that was optional.

redlightningsvx
05-08-2012, 11:39 AM
also check your ait filter to see if its clogged.

STeeL25T
05-09-2012, 08:18 PM
That might have been part of the problem, because with the air filter off but the MAF in it seems to be running much better. Enough that I was brave enough to try and take it around the block, but I only made it down the street and back. It was getting to 3K and then all power just fell off a cliff, eventually that became 2k. The engine is still shaking a lot more than it rightfully should, and worse yet the car about 4 different times makes like a short dragging noise and the motor shuts completely down instantly... But starts right up again afterward like nothing was a miss.

Tapani
05-09-2012, 08:42 PM
Search for the MAF re-solder thread.

Fixed mine.

Tapani

STeeL25T
05-11-2012, 01:07 PM
Spraying some MAF cleaner on it felt like it helped, until I tried to drive it haha. I brought the MAF in with me to work to hand off to coworker to solder for me, assuming a connection is broken. I haven't actually opened it to look.

Apparently my tires were old and low enough from the years they've been sitting to shread a hole in them from the 25 I drove it and back. Gotta replace that too...

icingdeath88
05-11-2012, 02:39 PM
Were you ever able to check codes?

STeeL25T
05-12-2012, 11:06 AM
Still haven't figured out how. Which is sad I know considering all the crap I've done so far.

icingdeath88
05-12-2012, 01:38 PM
Yea, I'd go ahead and to that if I were you. Where did you get hung up?

STeeL25T
06-06-2012, 12:02 PM
I had a friend solder up my MAF in case that was the issue a few weeks ago, got home and put it in and that car wouldn't start. One of the wires on my relay I added to the starter was kind of messed up but I couldn't get it to even try by holding a wire to it... So I skipped it and went back to the stock way to run it which should at least make it click once, but no luck. Not sure what I did.

I got it to start yesterday by running a wire directly from the battery to the tab on the starter, however I couldn't drive it anywhere to see if it fixed the problem (im assuming I didn't). I still have a shreaded tire on the front.. Maybe this weekend I can get that replaced.

STeeL25T
04-24-2013, 09:59 AM
Long time no see. I come back to share nothing but bad news :\

After driving the car a grand total of two times, its started developing problems. Smoke, the motor shaking all over the place, wont stay running, etc. It eventually got too cold to work on and I just lost interest once my daily driver went out and I picked up a Mazdaspeed 3 for my new daily. I made some time to do some work on it again finally last weekend and nothing looks good.

Still couldn't get it to start without running a wire to the starter tab. Motor still shaking. Without even actually starting all the way, I have smoke coming out of the left side valve cover breather, and going under the car is showing me a good amount of fuel scented oil coming from the right side exhaust manifold, as well as a little from the front main seal. Really don't have an idea of what all this means, but I'm assuming the motor has to come out and get broke down. Again.

I've thought about some options and I think I might pick up a motor from the local junk yard with 96k miles for 500 bucks next week and put that in the car instead of my built motor. Hopefully for not much fuss that will give me a running, driving, 5 speed SVX which is more than I've ever had before and will be good enough for me now. I can swap over some of the parts from my race motor that have literally 8 miles on them if I need to like the timing belt or water pump as needed. All thats to decide then is if I try and fix the other over time or if I part it out. Don't imagine there a huge demand for parts in it, so who knows.

92 SVX
04-24-2013, 11:29 AM
oh sorry I hope you can get something going that will work. Good luck

icingdeath88
04-24-2013, 01:09 PM
Well that really sucks. Did you put the motor together or did a machine shop?

STeeL25T
04-24-2013, 01:29 PM
A shop checked the clearances and did work on the block, but I put it together, with the help of a certified Subaru technician for most of it.

STeeL25T
04-24-2013, 03:37 PM
Just a quick question I've just thought of: Is it terribly difficult to pull the engine without pulling the transmission? A 92X/WRX one in this case. I've been thinking it needed to come out with the engine, but its fine where it is if I can just pull the motor and put a new one on it without a lot of extra work.

icingdeath88
04-24-2013, 04:44 PM
Yea, it's very doable. Pay close attention to step 12 in this guide: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1301065

Tireiron
04-24-2013, 07:41 PM
Like icing said it is very doable. Be sure and remove the radiator for the clearance in the front. Once you get everything unbolted and the clutch fork separated there is enough room to slide the motor forward away from the transmission and lift it out while clearing the input shaft. This is how I do clutch jobs on all subarus. MUCH easier than moving the tranny to do the clutch, and you get a fresh coolant flush and the ability to replace the valve cover gaskets which always leak. On the 4 cylinders it also allows the valve clearance to be set and the plastic rear oil separator plate to be replaced with a metal one.

When you put it back in, a bottle jack under the front of the transmission will help to line up the input shaft. Once it is lined up just sock the motor home and bolt it to the transmission then get the motor mounts lined up and it is good to go. Be sure and setup the clutch and throwoutbearing correctly BEFORE putting the motor back in or you will be kicking yourself.

Tapani
04-24-2013, 08:35 PM
If the oil smells badly like fuel you might want to drain it and see. Is there more oil now? Maybe it is diluted?

You may have a badly leaking injector or damaged O-ring washing one cylinder with fuel.

Just something to check before you pull the engine.

Tapani

CobraJet
04-25-2013, 07:13 AM
Oil and smoke like you mention is a heart breaking thing to come into on a new "Toy" that you've hand built yourself. So sorry to hear this. :(

You've been doing a great job so far. I've been really anxious to see this come about. Hoping to see some magic power numbers come of it.

I don't have an SVX but am really interested in these engines to repower my old 1820 lb./825kg. VW kit car. This is why I am interested in your build.

Can you imagine an engine like the one you've built installed into my project car?

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/955239.jpg

STeeL25T
04-25-2013, 08:40 AM
That would be awesome :D



Here is a video of what the car was doing when you tried to start it last year.. I feel like it got slightly better later after resoldering the MAF, but I'm not sure. It isn't starting now unless I directly power the starter.. I think I may have blown the relay I had to wire to get the starter voltage correct after the 5 speed swap. Either that or I just don't remember exactly how it was wired..

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/NightKids2/media/VIDEO0036.mp4.html

STeeL25T
04-25-2013, 12:18 PM
Anyone have a suggestion on a good way to check and make sure all my injectors are working?

icingdeath88
04-25-2013, 12:24 PM
Unplug them one by one and see whether anything changes. What kind of oil did you have in the motor for its first start?

STeeL25T
04-25-2013, 12:28 PM
I didn't spring for any break in oil. Just some off the shelf Penzoil I believe, yellow jug. I forget what kind.

processengr
04-25-2013, 02:19 PM
Maybe I missed it, but did you have stabilizer in the gas before storage? Do you use ethanol blended gas?

STeeL25T
04-25-2013, 03:59 PM
I did not. The gas that first went into the motor was probably damn near varnish from sitting as long as it did. I know for sure once the problems started to occur we pumped all the gas out of the tank entirely and put in new 93 along with some additive for cleaning and changed the fuel filter. No change though. All our gas here has ethanol in it here, with very few exceptions.

STeeL25T
04-25-2013, 06:31 PM
One problem solved at least. With the new relay in place to regulate the voltage to the starter, it starts up first time every time again. It won't stay running longer than about 18 seconds without giving it any gas though. I made this video so you can sort of see what it's doing.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/NightKids2/media/VIDEO0086_zps95de57e0.mp4.html

I tried unplugging just the first two injectors closest to the front on the left ride. The first one didn't seem to do much, the second one seemed to make it worse, so I thought I'd just try my luck with replacing that first injector. I have 5 of them still in the fuel rail off my spare engine. Well, 4 now.. I can't get the ****ers out of there without destroying them. Looked up a quick guide on removing them and the video says they should simply pull right out... Not happening. I couldn't pull out out with channel locks...

michael
04-25-2013, 06:57 PM
Just a thought, did you fiddle with the spark plug wires?

STeeL25T
04-25-2013, 07:50 PM
No. Fiddle?

icingdeath88
04-25-2013, 08:09 PM
No. Fiddle?

"Fiddle with" means "mess with".

From that video, there is something definitely very wrong. What kind of motor mounts are sitting under that motor? And what condition?

I also found removing the injectors from the rails to be a major PITA. I wish I knew some trick to getting them out, but I don't...

SVXRide
04-25-2013, 08:39 PM
Sounds like it's running out of gas. Can you get a fuel pressure tester and see what pressure you're getting on the line leaving the fuel filter? Also, did you check the fpr before you reinstalled it and did you hook it up to the vacuum port in the intake?

Bill

STeeL25T
04-25-2013, 08:59 PM
I do not have a fuel pressure gauge, never tested it before. I'd have to borrow something to test it.

It's sitting on stock motor mounts. I can't tell you anything about the condition.. They aren't new but they don't appear to be leaking. I have a pair of brand new Group N mounts in the back seat, but they haven't been modified to work yet. I intened to drive the car to a shop to have it done when all this started happening last year.

92 SVX
04-25-2013, 09:16 PM
One problem solved at least. With the new relay in place to regulate the voltage to the starter, it starts up first time every time again. It won't stay running longer than about 18 seconds without giving it any gas though. I made this video so you can sort of see what it's doing.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/NightKids2/media/VIDEO0086_zps95de57e0.mp4.html

I tried unplugging just the first two injectors closest to the front on the left ride. The first one didn't seem to do much, the second one seemed to make it worse, so I thought I'd just try my luck with replacing that first injector. I have 5 of them still in the fuel rail off my spare engine. Well, 4 now.. I can't get the ****ers out of there without destroying them. Looked up a quick guide on removing them and the video says they should simply pull right out... Not happening. I couldn't pull out out with channel locks...
That really sounds like no spark at one/or more plugs or over rich/leaking fuel injector.
Someone mentioned checking the oil is the level higher then normal, does it smell like fuel?

STeeL25T
04-25-2013, 09:29 PM
As best I can tell I'm actually losing oil. It was low when we checked it over the weekend. Lower than full, anyway.

dragoontwo
04-26-2013, 04:36 AM
Stupid question, but are the fuel pressure and return lines on the correct way?

processengr
04-26-2013, 04:53 AM
One problem solved at least. With the new relay in place to regulate the voltage to the starter, it starts up first time every time again. It won't stay running longer than about 18 seconds without giving it any gas though. I made this video so you can sort of see what it's doing.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/NightKids2/media/VIDEO0086_zps95de57e0.mp4.html

I tried unplugging just the first two injectors closest to the front on the left ride. The first one didn't seem to do much, the second one seemed to make it worse, so I thought I'd just try my luck with replacing that first injector. I have 5 of them still in the fuel rail off my spare engine. Well, 4 now.. I can't get the ****ers out of there without destroying them. Looked up a quick guide on removing them and the video says they should simply pull right out... Not happening. I couldn't pull out out with channel locks...

Soak them in WD40 overnight. Rotate them 1st, left to right, etc., then carefully pry under the connector boss of the injector. Too easy to break with channel locks...

STeeL25T
04-26-2013, 06:49 AM
Stupid question, but are the fuel pressure and return lines on the correct way?

I think so at least. It worked well enough to drive around the block a hand full of times, to the gas station and back, to the mall for dinner and back home, etc. before this all started. The motor was out of the car for around a couple years though so it's always possible I don't remember where something went. I can take a picture of anything you'd like to check.