11:1 CR Race/Street Engine build

[TomsSVX]

As many of you may know, I am putting together a race/street engine for Dan Nall/ Shotgunslade's SVX.

Particulars:

11:1 Supertech Pistons from LAN
Eagle H-beam rods
ACL Bearings
Polished crank
Web Cams weld/grind w/ custom profile specifically for this engine
Brian Crower coated SS intake&exhaust valves
Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers
RallyBob ported cylinder heads
Equal length headers
Tomyx intake
200mm HKS Mega Flow Element
Hydra Nemesis w/ custom tune
740cc Injectors (poss. running race fuel/ E85 for track days)
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Cometic HG's
ARP head studs & fasteners
Remote mount electric water pump w/ aux cooling paths to cyl heads to try and repair the overheating issues tracked EG33's have had in the past

Shotblock has already had all clearances set by my local speedshop and was fully assembled in-shop at AWD. WE are aiming for a power goal of 260AWHP w/ matching torque. This is for two reasons, 1. It needs to pass NJ emissions 2. It needs to be able to be driven on the street effortlessly.

Granted we could create a huge cam like Rallybob and the EG33RS guys did but we needed something a little more subtle.

This is not a cheap build and the budget Dan has allotted has allowed us to use very high quality parts and address many issues others have experienced in the past. My expectations for this engine are much higher than the goals stated earlier. I fully expect to be flirting w/ 300AWHP/tq but time will tell. More once I know more from Web and Rallybob on the heads

Tom

[1986nate]

:eek: WOW!!! 260 AWHP sounds awesome expecially for N/A. Good luck and I will be sure to follow closely:cool:

[BoxerFanatic]

That just sounds like a very nice non-turbo engine. I can only imagine what it would be like to drive, especially with a STI/Spec B 6MT gearbox and rear diff.

Looking forward to hearing about the driving impressions... :D

[Myxalplyx]

Sounds good Tom! I won't bother asking about the price until the build is completely done. What is the expected timeline for all of this? Also, will you be starting off with a baseline dyno number to be able to reference the difference in before and after modifications?

The whp looks neat but it may be more valuable to some to know what the difference in hp/torque than can expect since people will get varying degrees of gains/losses. At any rate, good luck!

[SilverSpear]

Nice project, costly too but worth it in my opinion.

What brand are you going through for the electric pumps? Which ones?

PS: Tom, pm me I might have something for you on concerning the heads.

[TomsSVX]

I am waiting to hear back from RallyBob on what pump they have chosen for their engine. They seem to have had some good luck with their coolant system in helping the overheating.

Total price will be disclosed at the discretion of the owner.

Danny, what did you have in mind, you can feel free to post it here

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Sounds good Tom! I won't bother asking about the price until the build is completely done. What is the expected timeline for all of this? Also, will you be starting off with a baseline dyno number to be able to reference the difference in before and after modifications?

The whp looks neat but it may be more valuable to some to know what the difference in hp/torque than can expect since people will get varying degrees of gains/losses. At any rate, good luck!

Yes, Dan had the car dynoed a little while back on one of the portable dynojet's. So there is a baseline from what he had to what he will have. I fully expect to have the long block finished by the end of the month as long as Web is relatively quick with the cams. Then it is measuring and buying shims and remeasuring the valve lash. Once all is done, it is about 2-3hrs of assembly.

Tom

[SilverSpear]

Danny, what did you have in mind, you can feel free to post it here

Tom

Yeah you are right. We should post it here for everybody to see. I am 90% sure these were the parts ordered from SuperTech for the XXtuning EG33:

- SIVN-1012/2 Subaru 2.0lts/WRX Intake valve 36.5x5.96x103.85mm/SS/Black Nitrided/backcut./ +0.5mm head diam./ Length and groove is 0.5mm lower than stock.

- SEVN-1012/2 Subaru 2.0lts/WRX Exhaust valve 32.5x5.96x104.20mm/SS/Black Nitrided/ +0.5mm head diam./ Length and groove is 0.5mm lower than stock.

- SPRK-TS1015/SU3 Dual valve spring 27.50/20/15.20mm, CB:20.70mm/ 64lbs@36mm / 204 lbs@11.5mm lift/ Chrome Silicon/ Max recommended lift 13.3mm comes with retainers and seat locators.

- CF-33/3.0 Cam Follower, solid, 33x26x3.0mm.

- 33mm BMW Buckets.

The valvetrain configuration is based on a 244° @ .050" duration (stock was 196* @ 0.050", that is nearly an additional of 50* duration), plus a massive valve lift increase (.444"/11.27 mm intake, .460"/11.68 mm exhaust lift).

Now I already spoke with the machinist who performed the work on the XXtuning heads, sent him all the info that I have for him to cross reference them with his notes. I am expecting his reply next week.

For the camshafts, I am negotiating with another manufacturer, much cheaper than Web.

[TomsSVX]

While that may be good, we are confined to a stock diamter valve due to the piston selection. I originally wanted to use +1mm valves but we withdrew from that idea. I have gutted a set of SVX buckets and I will be using modified 2.5rs shims. I just need to know the shimless clearances before I can order the right sized shims.

Tom

[SilverSpear]

While that may be good, we are confined to a stock diamter valve due to the piston selection. I originally wanted to use +1mm valves but we withdrew from that idea. I have gutted a set of SVX buckets and I will be using modified 2.5rs shims. I just need to know the shimless clearances before I can order the right sized shims.

Tom

If you are going wiht the valve dimensions I posted above along with the stock diameter, let me know, I might be interested in a set.

[STeeL25T]

I'm not claiming to be an expert here, but I never understood why a lot of you guys run such absolutely massive injectors on these engines. Do you really need 700+ cc of fuel for 260 wheel power?

[SilverSpear]

I'm not claiming to be an expert here, but I never understood why a lot of you guys run such absolutely massive injectors on these engines. Do you really need 700+ cc of fuel for 260 wheel power?

You can always compensate with the standalone. The big injectors are just in case you need to upgrade further in the future..

[TomsSVX]

If you are going wiht the valve dimensions I posted above along with the stock diameter, let me know, I might be interested in a set.

We are using stock sized valves for an ej20t. They have already been ordered and recieved. I am waiting to get the heads back from Rallybob before I an load them into the heads

I'm not claiming to be an expert here, but I never understood why a lot of you guys run such absolutely massive injectors on these engines. Do you really need 700+ cc of fuel for 260 wheel power?

I originally wanted to use some 555cc Nismo injectors but after a little bit of research apparently they have been having issues with the Ethanol mixed into pump gas nowaday and can crap out within a month of installation. The 740cc's are the same injectors I have been running in my SVX for years now without issue, so I feel confident in their reliability.

You can always compensate with the standalone. The big injectors are just in case you need to upgrade further in the future..

Yes this i true but you also lose some injection accuracy with this large of an injector. Luckily the Hydra Nemesis has excellent control of the exact millisecond the injector remains open allowing for really great control over the fueling of the cylinders.

Tom

[oab_au]

Tom what rpm are you looking at, to make peak torque?

Harvey.

[TomsSVX]

Our peak torque is not going to be too much off of the stock curve. The engine is not going to be built to spin insane RPMs rather have a very very meaty torque curve. We have set our redline at 7500 and I hope to see a peak around 6500-7000 rpm

Tom

[SomethingElse]

Remote mount electric water pump w/ aux cooling paths to cyl heads to try and repair the overheating issues tracked EG33's have had in the past



Next event I was going to run I had planned on installing a switch on the control side of the cooling fans so I could just flip thy switch for full fan function and try to prevent this......

Remote mount water pump sounds way COOLER!!!!

Is it the coolant pump/poor passage design causing these problems? Can you disclose any pics or diagrams?

[shotgunslade]

I noticed that those who have tracked the automatic SVX do not seem to have had the overheating problems that us manual transmission folks have had. Harry (NewSVX) and Paisan have both tracked their cars without incident. Almost everyone who has tracked a manual car has at least had blowback into the overflow tank. I think this is related to the 6400rpm redline mandated by the automatic shift points versus the 7200 to 7500 rpm that manual drivers use.

Even Jack Laverty (Eg33 RS showcased here by RallyBob) has had a lot of overheating problems.

If overheating is related to high revs, I want to get good torque between 5500 and 6500 so I can use 7000 to 7200 as a shift point.

As for the cost, by the time it is all done, pistons, long block build, injectors, Hydra Nemesis, equal length headers, dual exhaust, it is probably going to be pushing $12k.

[TomsSVX]

Next event I was going to run I had planned on installing a switch on the control side of the cooling fans so I could just flip thy switch for full fan function and try to prevent this......

Remote mount water pump sounds way COOLER!!!!

Is it the coolant pump/poor passage design causing these problems? Can you disclose any pics or diagrams?

While this may help at low speeds, the fans can actually become an obstruction at high rates of speed and be detrimental to the efficiency of the cooling system. The electric pump is to increase flow and also allow the aux cooling I will be adding to this engine. It is hard to explain without having the engine in front of you, so lets wait until I can get pictures of it all finished

Tom

[SilverSpear]

I read somewhere that the stock water pump of the SVX is extremely efficient, sometimes better than the aux electric pumps. Will the stock pump remain along with the electric pump or are you planning to delete the stock one?

[STeeL25T]

Works for me. Looks like a killer build, can't wait to see what it will do! :)




Also, the parts vulture in me wants to know if you have two left over ACL bearings you want to get rid of.

[TomsSVX]

nope, they go back on the shelf with the other couple of sets I have for future engine rebuilds.

Tom

[subbieatnz]

Sounds like a intresting build :)

Are you keeping it 3.3 or are you going to bore the block out a lil bit?

[shotgunslade]

Are you keeping it 3.3 or are you going to bore the block out a lil bit?

A very slight overbore. Maybe a little over 3.4 ltr displacement.

[SVXMAN2001]

When is this build estimated to be completed?

[TomsSVX]

I am hoping to have the long block completed by the end of the month. Basically my hold up is getting the cams back from Web to measure needed shims and order them. Once that is done I will do the R&R of the engine and begin working in the water pump & headers.

Tom

[SSSVX]

A very slight overbore. Maybe a little over 3.4 ltr displacement.


Dan, its nice that you don't give up on this car.

I hope you'll get out of most of the fun on the track days after your build.

*looking forward to seeing the results*

[Dessertrunner]

Guys I think the cooling could be a big problem for our engine. We have a guy over here who has a racing buggy (think you guys call them sand rails) and it has a SVX engine. He can't keep it cool even though his radiator is about 2 times bigger then our PBR.
He just brought a multi flow radiator. Should hear by the weekend if it fixed the problem. It seems that we need to keep the coolet in the radiator for a longer time to get rid of more heat.
I am not going to race my car till I fix the heating issue.
Tony

[shotgunslade]

I miss it on the track. The new roadster is too much like work. Very twitchy, very tail happy. Scary fast, but scary. Also, I loved being king of the hill when it rained, rather than the soaked guy in the little orange car sliding all over the place.

Have fond memories of good turns, especially after I got a handle on how to drive it. Looking forward to more of the same. Will need about 1000 miles to break it in, so it might be next season before I'm back out on the track.

[SilverSpear]

Guys I think the cooling could be a big problem for our engine. We have a guy over here who has a racing buggy (think you guys caal them sand rails) and it has a SVX engine. He can't keep it cool even though his radiator is about 2 times bigger then our PBR.
He just brought a multi flow radiator. Should hear by the weekend if it fixed the problem. It seems that we need to keep the coolet in the radiator for a longer time to get rid of more heat.
I am not going to race my car till I fix the heating issue.
Tony

Tony, what mods did he do on the EG33?

[TomsSVX]

As I have tried to explain before many times and so have others, the overheating is not due to an insufficient radiator. When the needle is in the red, the coolant comming out of the radiator is still at ideal temp. It is a restriction/stagnation in the engine's cooling system. That is why I will be keeping the stock flow path and merely adding new ports to the cylinder heads for aux cold water inputs to keep the water from boiling and causing the spikes in water temp.

Tom

[subbieatnz]

As I have tried to explain before many times and so have others, the overheating is not due to an insufficient radiator. When the needle is in the red, the coolant comming out of the radiator is still at ideal temp. It is a restriction/stagnation in the engine's cooling system. That is why I will be keeping the stock flow path and merely adding new ports to the cylinder heads for aux cold water inputs to keep the water from boiling and causing the spikes in water temp.

Tom

So when can we see some pics of this engine build :p

[Dessertrunner]

Tom
If you remember I have temp guages on the out put of the engine and on the water returning to the engine from the radiator. Under high revs/high loads the radiator water is only 5 C under the inlet temp. On a hot day the system melts down. I have raced the car, driven in the dessert on 40c days and I can assure you the current radiator won't cool the engine due to the low flow rate. I have been monitoring the temps for 150,000. I do agree with your suggestion to improve flow and add more water as you have talked about. It also seems that if you are going to race the car the AC evaporator infront of the radiator has to go to improve airflow.
We need to solve the problem so we all don't waste the money we spend on rebuilds.
Tony

[shotgunslade]

We need to think about this issue in terms of the fluid mechanics of the system. We essentially have a heat source (the engine) and a heat sink (the radiator) connected by a variable flow fluid link. Flow through this link will vary with engine speed. The water pump is a centrifugal pump and its output varies with engine speed. So, the faster the engine goes, the more heat it generates and the more water flows through the system. The bulk temperature differential across the engine likely will increase with engine speed , because the increase in water flow doesn't keep up with the increase in heat generation as the engine speeds up.

The radiator on the other hand, is a different animal. The amount of heat it can reject is a primarily a function of 3 variables: heat transfer surface area between coolant tubes and the airflow, airflow through the radiator and the average tremperature differential between the incoming air and the incoming water. As the flow rate of the water increases, assuming that the airflow rate stays constant and the incoming air temperature stays the same, the temperature differential between the incoming water and the leaving water will drop. That is because the heat rejection from the radiator remains relatively constant and the mass flow rate of coolant water increases. Ergo, the temperature drop of the water through the radiator is less. Just as much heat was rejected, but it was rejected by a greater mass of water.

So what does this have to do with our discussion. Just this: The statement that the water isn't staying in the radiator long enough to lose heat is nonsensical. Heat rejection from the radiator is not influenced much at all by the water flow rate through the heat exchanger, it is much more influenced by the air flow rate. Lowering the water flow rate will increase the average temperature of the radiator surface, because the leaving temperature will rise, but this is not a big effect. Lets look at some numbers.


Flow rate = X. Incoming radiator water temperature 90 Deg C - Leaving water temperature 100 DegC. Air temperature 40 DegC. Average temperature differential 55 DegC.

Flow Rate = 2X Incoming radiator water temperature 90 DegC - Leaving water temperature 95 DegC (twice the flow rate, same heat gain across the engine- half the temperature rise) Air temperature 40 DegC. Average temperature differential 52.5 F DegC.

Not that different.

The analysis to determine radiator size has to look at the heat generated by the engine at full output and look at the heat loss through the radiator to the incoming air at approximately 95 DegC average coolant temperature. Coolant temperature rise across the engine can then be calculated based upon the coolant mass flow rate, engine heat generation and the specific heat of the coolant.

The most important characteristic of the radiator is the area of heat transfer surface between air and water. What big radiators give you is more heat transfer surface. It isn't about water velocity through the radiator tubes. If anything, slower water velocity through the tubes inhibits heat transfer, as the laminar boundary layer at the tube wall will be thicker, and thus heat transfer between the bulk of the coolant and the radiator tube wall will be inhibited.

Short answer is: If your radiator is correctly sized (area of heat transfer surface between water tubes and air flow) to reject the heat that your engine is generating at peak output given a design incoming air temperature, you cannot pump too much water through the engine. Assuming that local flow conditions do not cause cavitation, flowing more water is always better.

[SomethingElse]

Are you going to run an oil cooler? If so where are you going to tap into? possibly an oil filter adapter type?

[SilverSpear]

You need a different front bumper, something "more" open for better cooling. Look at my front bumper and try to imagine the potentials behind it... I can imagine right now two small motorcycle rads for example mounted inline (behind the projectors area) along with an electric pump, a switch button... :rolleyes:

[shotgunslade]

Yes, an oil cooler

[Dessertrunner]

I agree with what is being said that you can't have enough coolent flow rate, the more you can get the better. The SVX engine has half of the B6 flow rate and also it has 2 return pipe to the radiator as opposed to our 1. The return pipe issue supports Tom arguement about a restriction.
It takes time for coolent to lose heat, it doesn't happen instanently. If you can't increase flow then the only way to improve cooling is to increase time in the radiator so the return temps come down lower.
In answer to the other question asked the guy is using a standard engine except for extractor, Motec ECU which he has set for sequential firing. He is getting 180whp. Claims the sequential firing gave him 6whp more. There are 2 SVX engine on drag strips over here with twin turbo's and one has had a special steel crank made for it. My guess he is the only guy in the world with an SVX engine with a steel crank.
Will let you know what happen with the cooling.

[SilverSpear]

I agree with what is being said that you can't have enough coolent flow rate, the more you can get the better. The SVX engine has half of the B6 flow rate and also it has 2 return pipe to the radiator as opposed to our 1. The return pipe issue supports Tom arguement about a restriction.
It takes time for coolent to lose heat, it doesn't happen instanently. If you can't increase flow then the only way to improve cooling is to increase time in the radiator so the return temps come down lower.
In answer to the other question asked the guy is using a standard engine except for extractor, Motec ECU which he has set for sequential firing. He is getting 180whp. Claims the sequential firing gave him 6whp more. There are 2 SVX engine on drag strips over here with twin turbo's and one has had a special steel crank made for it. My guess he is the only guy in the world with an SVX engine with a steel crank.
Will let you know what happen with the cooling.

Hmm.. Can you ask around for more info concerning that steel crankshaft? :)

[Dessertrunner]

Okay will see if I can find out details for you. What info do you need?

[SilverSpear]

Okay will see if I can find out details for you. What info do you need?

Well Tony, this is not info just for me, but for the entire community over here. The more we know who manufactures what for these cars, the more it can help source for future projects (once seemed almost impossible to achieve).

I think what interests people is who manufactures that crank and under what specs...

Thanks in advance..

[TomsSVX]

I agree with what is being said that you can't have enough coolent flow rate, the more you can get the better. The SVX engine has half of the B6 flow rate and also it has 2 return pipe to the radiator as opposed to our 1. The return pipe issue supports Tom arguement about a restriction.
It takes time for coolent to lose heat, it doesn't happen instanently. If you can't increase flow then the only way to improve cooling is to increase time in the radiator so the return temps come down lower.
In answer to the other question asked the guy is using a standard engine except for extractor, Motec ECU which he has set for sequential firing. He is getting 180whp. Claims the sequential firing gave him 6whp more. There are 2 SVX engine on drag strips over here with twin turbo's and one has had a special steel crank made for it. My guess he is the only guy in the world with an SVX engine with a steel crank.
Will let you know what happen with the cooling.

Tony, the PWR radiator is sized very well for a modified EG33 yet it cannot break the heat of a stock engine? I don't think the issue is with radiator capacity but how the fluid is moved.

When I talk about increasing flow, I do not mention increasing velocity for a reason. I will be working with Shotgunslade on the new engine with water pump flow rates and our sucess/failure rates at different flow rates but when I talk about flow now it is the flow withing the block. After sitting down with an open block and heads in front of me it came pretty quickly that there are a couple spots in the cooling system that have the chance to allow water to sit and stagnate. I believe it is within these sections of the engine that the water is allowed to boil. This will drop the overall system pressure allowing the water to vaporize and cause the entire system to become less efficient due to the lack of suitable pressurized water.

So more or less it is all about finding the root cause rather than trying to find bandaid after bandaid. The work done by RallyBob and Jack on their EG33 has already been a huge help and knocked a couple plausible items off the list. Right now the X-over from block half to block half is going to be looked at along with the stagnation issue that I believe is the major contributor of the issue.

This issue we see now may/may not be the entire reason the engine was tuned down from the factory. They may have had it worked for a lot more top end power but ran out of time/money to fix the problems with the block/cylinder heads. Hence the low redline and beefier low end torque curve. After that they just used a low final drive rate to level everything out and get it on the market. We have found the engine can run for days within the stock confines at 5500 rpm without overheating or giving any signs of issues but beyond that we start running into problems and maybe Subaru did the same thing and took the easy way out of making everything else work for the engine under those conditions... It is simply an idea and I am more than likely days off on this but still plausible

Tom

[Dessertrunner]

Okay got the guys phone number with the steel crank, word is he sells them. Also forgot to mention that the guy with the buggy is having trouble with the cam angle sensor on the cam pulley giving a bad signal at 6K, it stopped the buggy getting maxium power.
On cooling we need to all get our heads together to sort this out so I am interested to see how you go Tom.
Tony

[TomsSVX]

Okay got the guys phone number with the steel crank, word is he sells them. Also forgot to mention that the guy with the buggy is having trouble with the cam angle sensor on the cam pulley giving a bad signal at 6K, it stopped the buggy getting maxium power.
On cooling we need to all get our heads together to sort this out so I am interested to see how you go Tom.
Tony

Good thing I can use the Cam angle sensor out of whatever car I want with the Hydra. But it is likely that the wiring on that engine may have had it and the shielding has gone. Or the wire is broken and has some high resistance which cannot carry a tune at 6k+rpm as the EG33RS and other EG33's turning high RPMs have not had contamination issues with CAS signals

Tom

[Dessertrunner]

Tom he felt the problem was from heat as his extractors were about 3" away. When the engine was cold it reved out when it got hot it broke up.

[TomsSVX]

Could be. but all things considered, if the wiring was good it should not be effected like that. if it is, its about time he shielded things from that kind of heat

Tom

[oab_au]

Tom he felt the problem was from heat as his extractors were about 3" away. When the engine was cold it reved out when it got hot it broke up.

Tony these sensors have a magnet in there to produce the signal. As the temp goes up the magnetic field gets less. It also loses magnetic strength with age, so when they age, and heat up,,,,,,,,,signal too weak to read.

Harvey.

[Dessertrunner]

Harvey I agree with you. If we are to get the performance out of the motors we are aiming for then its one of the issues we need to gett our head around. If as Tom mentioned the wire wasn't shielded properly and the signal get weak it would be a reciept for failure.
By the way I have posted photos of the buggy here.

[oab_au]

When I talk about increasing flow, I do not mention increasing velocity for a reason. I will be working with Shotgunslade on the new engine with water pump flow rates and our sucess/failure rates at different flow rates but when I talk about flow now it is the flow withing the block. After sitting down with an open block and heads in front of me it came pretty quickly that there are a couple spots in the cooling system that have the chance to allow water to sit and stagnate. I believe it is within these sections of the engine that the water is allowed to boil. This will drop the overall system pressure allowing the water to vaporize and cause the entire system to become less efficient due to the lack of suitable pressurized water.


Tom

I think what you say here is getting close to the problem. I notice that the overheating only seems to become apparent when the race is finished and the car has slowed. I haven’t heard Dan say it overheats when it is actually racing. This is similar to what the 4lt Toyota V8 engine experiences under racing conditions. What is purposed here is that the water pump is running at speeds high enough to flow more water than the system can pass, the result is the pressure in the block can be higher than the system pressure. This allows pockets of water in the system to be above the boiling point, but not boil because of the excessive pressure in the block. When the engine slows the pressure evens out, and the pockets of water suddenly erupt as they are above the boiling point.
I think if the pump is replaced with an electric pump the flow will always match the temp, so it can’t produce higher pressures in the block.

Harvey.

[SilverSpear]

Very interesting theory. Let's say that Tom found a way to fix or go around those weak spots, and a way was found to parallel the flow of water to its temperature at different conditions... let's say while racing, the maximum flow allowable by the engine block is reached and the water keeps overheating... what is the solution here?

[TomsSVX]

Very interesting theory. Let's say that Tom found a way to fix or go around those weak spots, and a way was found to parallel the flow of water to its temperature at different conditions... let's say while racing, the maximum flow allowable by the engine block is reached and the water keeps overheating... what is the solution here?


Increase the block's ability to flow. Which is partially why I am adding the aux line to the cylinder heads and also why the X-over ontop of the engine will also be looked into

Tom

[SilverSpear]

Increase the block's ability to flow. Which is partially why I am adding the aux line to the cylinder heads and also why the X-over ontop of the engine will also be looked into

Tom

Appreciate if you can post pictures of this setup. Also what are the weak points that you saw in the block?

[RallyBob]

There are 2 SVX engine on drag strips over here with twin turbo's and one has had a special steel crank made for it. My guess he is the only guy in the world with an SVX engine with a steel crank.

Frank Aragona has a billet steel crank in his EG33 drag car. He told me the stock crankshaft started really flexing like crazy at about 10,500 rpms. Up to 9500 it was very stable. IIRC, Rigoli also went this route.

[TomsSVX]

Appreciate if you can post pictures of this setup. Also what are the weak points that you saw in the block?

More or less the water jackets at the back of the block see little to no flow. I can only imagine that the water stagnates in these nooks and comes to a boil relatively quickly. Problem is, it is stuck there until the water flow slows down and it emerges from the corner and jumps up to the temp sensor, hence the spikes up and down.

I hope by addind auxiliary lines to the back of the cylinder heads we can assist in keeping this stagnation to a minimum and thus assist in the overheating issue. The X-over have a larger volume will assist in maintaining a desirable velocity throughout the engine instead of bottling it all up on the left side of the engine.

Tom

[Dessertrunner]

Tom its worth pointing in support of you idea that the back cyclinder on the AC compressor side is the one that overheats from what the buggy guys told me.
Tony

[TomsSVX]

Tom its worth pointing in support of you idea that the back cyclinder on the AC compressor side is the one that overheats from what the buggy guys told me.
Tony

That is the one that I had my eye on when taking a look at the block. Good to have that kind of confirmation

Tom

[Dessertrunner]

Rally Bob,
I followed up about Tom's point re the Cam sensor and the buggy guy said he will check the wiring but thinks its okay. My question to you is do you know or can you find out what cam & crank sensors the drag guys are using. If they can get the engine to rev to 10,000 then we should be okay. I just wonder if our cam sensors are not good enough past 6,500.
Tony

[TomsSVX]

Rally Bob,
I followed up about Tom's point re the Cam sensor and the buggy guy said he will check the wiring but thinks its okay. My question to you is do you know or can you find out what cam & crank sensors the drag guys are using. If they can get the engine to rev to 10,000 then we should be okay. I just wonder if our cam sensors are not good enough past 6,500.
Tony

past 6500... You mean 3250rpms? The cam is spinning half as fast as the crank and the cam sproket only has a single pick-up. Either the heat is messing with the sensor or the heat is messing with the wiring.

Tom

[Dessertrunner]

I thought Bob ment engine RPM at 10,000?

[TomsSVX]

I would imagine that the stock sensor with the proper air gap would be capable. The stock ignition system, I do not know

Tom

[oab_au]

The signal from these inductive sensors, is a sine wave that is prone to interference. The wiring from them has to be shielded, and the shield has to have a good ground to prevent it.

Harvey.

[TomsSVX]

Update!

Cams from Web are IN!

740cc injectors are on their way

Meziere water pump and fitting are on their way

Silicone hoses will be ordered Monday

1 5/8" Tubing for the headers is on its way, thermal coating after completion

Hydra will be ordered Monday

More to come!:D

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Well, got a good deal of parts here but without have the heads done, I have been spinning my wheels.

RallyBob had not been able to get to the heads before so I have ported and polished them myself. I had been to Bob's shop and he gave me a tutorial on how he ports the heads in regard to the dogleg exhaust port. WIth that knowledge in mind, I was able to port and polish them in about 14hrs:rolleyes:. I am happy with the outcome and need to thank Bob for showing me the tricks of the EG33 heads.

That being said, the heads will be off to the machine shop this week and should be assembled this upcomming weekend if I can find the time. Once the valves and all other components are loaded I can then select the shims I will need and order them accordingly. Long block is finally coming together.

I have also prepped a good deal of parts that will be sent off to powder.

In the process I have decided to cut up a water pass-over pipe. The passage through is MUCH smaller than I ever imagined. I will be fabricating a roof ontop of the X-over to increase the X-section and allow for more water to pass through with less restriction. This along with the other modifications to the cooling system should be a good start at tackling the overheating issues with the EG33 when spun to higher than stock RPMS.

More to come, sorry I am not a picture taker, not until the tires are spinning:D:D

Tom

[SilverSpear]

More to come, sorry I am not a picture taker, not until the tires are spinning:D:D

Tom

You should be a picture taker because.... This th....... cs! :p

[SVXRide]

YT,
Got your voicemail! Told you that cross over wasn't flowing much;)
I'll have to have you check out the heads I ported/polished when you come down for the rims/tires.
-Bill (Vicodin is your friend!)





Well, got a good deal of parts here but without have the heads done, I have been spinning my wheels.

RallyBob had not been able to get to the heads before so I have ported and polished them myself. I had been to Bob's shop and he gave me a tutorial on how he ports the heads in regard to the dogleg exhaust port. WIth that knowledge in mind, I was able to port and polish them in about 14hrs:rolleyes:. I am happy with the outcome and need to thank Bob for showing me the tricks of the EG33 heads.

That being said, the heads will be off to the machine shop this week and should be assembled this upcomming weekend if I can find the time. Once the valves and all other components are loaded I can then select the shims I will need and order them accordingly. Long block is finally coming together.

I have also prepped a good deal of parts that will be sent off to powder.

In the process I have decided to cut up a water pass-over pipe. The passage through is MUCH smaller than I ever imagined. I will be fabricating a roof ontop of the X-over to increase the X-section and allow for more water to pass through with less restriction. This along with the other modifications to the cooling system should be a good start at tackling the overheating issues with the EG33 when spun to higher than stock RPMS.

More to come, sorry I am not a picture taker, not until the tires are spinning:D:D

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Just when I thought I was done with the Die Grinder... I remember I have to clearance the bucket sleeves... Damn these lobes are huge!!:D:D

Tom

[RallyBob]

Just when I thought I was done with the Die Grinder... I remember I have to clearance the bucket sleeves... Damn these lobes are huge!!:D:D

Tom

Check BOTH sides of the bucket and the sides of the head, and just for laughs check the clearance to the underside of the valve cover with some clay. Remember when everything gets hot, dimensions grow...

[TomsSVX]

Check BOTH sides of the bucket and the sides of the head, and just for laughs check the clearance to the underside of the valve cover with some clay. Remember when everything gets hot, dimensions grow...

Yea I am making sure there is plenty of clearance. Remember these cams are slightly smaller than the ones in the EG33RS so I will not need to go too nuts

Tom

[Tim]

Pics! pics!

[TomsSVX]

Get into your Corolla of death and drive down to the shop and take a look for yourself

Tom

[SilverSpear]

Get into your Corolla of death and drive down to the shop and take a look for yourself... and bring a camera with you.

Tom

Fixed! .....

[TomsSVX]

OK got the RH head lash measurements done. Problem is, the shims I originally wanted to order (2.5 shims) do not come in small enough thickness (less than 2.0mm). Does anyone know where I can find some 26mm wide shims??

Tom

[SilverSpear]

OK got the RH head lash measurements done. Problem is, the shims I originally wanted to order (2.5 shims) do not come in small enough thickness (less than 2.0mm). Does anyone know where I can find some 26mm wide shims??

Tom

Contact THESE (http://www.lceperformance.com/Valve-Shims-Buckets-s/1664.htm) guys, maybe they have your application...

[SVXelerator]

I know a guy who knows a guy...but you've probably already called him

[TomsSVX]

Contact THESE (http://www.lceperformance.com/Valve-Shims-Buckets-s/1664.htm) guys, maybe they have your application...

Sent them an Email with the specs of what I will need. Lets see what they have to say

I know a guy who knows a guy...but you've probably already called him

SVXRide? Already called him and he said he would check with his guy and see if he would be able/willing to make them

Tom

[SVXRide]

YT,
Did a little checking. Can you confirm that you'll want shims that have a Rockwell harness of 45 or greater?
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

Teaser pics. Sorry if they are out of focus... this is what happens when you let Eric touch the camera

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCF1409.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCF1407.jpg

Tom

[TomsSVX]

YT,
Did a little checking. Can you confirm that you'll want shims that have a Rockwell harness of 45 or greater?
-Bill


Bill HRC 45 should be pretty good.

Tom

[SVXRide]

Cool. High carbon steel it is (1095ish, if my memory serves me right). I'm guessing they may need to be heat treated after machining due to the heat imparted by the machining. We're basically talking about tool steel/knife blade material here. :cool:
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

Cool. High carbon steel it is (1095ish, if my memory serves me right). I'm guessing they may need to be heat treated after machining due to the heat imparted by the machining. We're basically talking about tool steel/knife blade material here. :cool:
-Bill

It would be a good idea to heat treat it if they have the facilities to do it. I know I do not aside from heating and flashing in water

Tom

[SilverSpear]

You also need to show us pictures of the auxiliary water tappings... :rolleyes:

Remember, always prove what you declare :p:D

[TomsSVX]

Danny have not tapped them yet. I am picking up the fittings and hose this week though

Tom

[SilverSpear]

Danny have not tapped them yet. I am picking up the fittings and hose this week though

Tom

This will be interesting to see...

[SilverSpear]

I just found THIS (http://qedmotorsport.co.uk/qed-shop/lotus-907-/-910-/-911-/-912/camshafts-and-followers/valve-shims-various-sizes) source of shims also Tom. They are overseas though but priced good in my opinion. Shipping should be cheap...

[Dessertrunner]

Tom,
I totally agree with you about the cross over pipe and its causing the left bank to not get enough cooling as we understand it that bank boils even when the radiator is running cool. The guy with the buggy still hasn't been able to keep it cool so we are going to cut the cross pipe today and raise the height. Happy to post photos when and give feed back to the degree of success or failure.
Tony

[TomsSVX]

after numerous emails and phone calls, I cannot find the proper size shims anywhere...

I had the thought of trimming down the valve stems to create a larger gap to use thicker shims. I would rather not do that in all honesty.

SO.... I have ordered some Yamaha motorcycle shims. 25mm in diamter and 2.30mm in thickness. I will send these out to be cut down to the individual thicknesses they need to be.... Anyone else doing this... Highly suggest trying to take 1mm out of the base circle

Tom

[SilverSpear]

after numerous emails and phone calls, I cannot find the proper size shims anywhere...

I had the thought of trimming down the valve stems to create a larger gap to use thicker shims. I would rather not do that in all honesty.

SO.... I have ordered some Yamaha motorcycle shims. 25mm in diamter and 2.30mm in thickness. I will send these out to be cut down to the individual thicknesses they need to be.... Anyone else doing this... Highly suggest trying to take 1mm out of the base circle

Tom

Camshaft base circle?

[FriendlyTurkey]

Highly suggest trying to take 1mm out of the base circle

Tom

Are you running into this trouble since you are using stock length EJ20 valves instead of the shortened EJ20 supertech valves used on the EFI logics car?

[SilverSpear]

He mentioned earlier he used Crower valves, I guess they are stock length.

EFILogics are 0.5mm shorter...

[TomsSVX]

yes reduce the bas circle.

Yes they are stock length valves

Tom

[oab_au]

after numerous emails and phone calls, I cannot find the proper size shims anywhere...

I had the thought of trimming down the valve stems to create a larger gap to use thicker shims. I would rather not do that in all honesty.

SO.... I have ordered some Yamaha motorcycle shims. 25mm in diamter and 2.30mm in thickness. I will send these out to be cut down to the individual thicknesses they need to be.... Anyone else doing this... Highly suggest trying to take 1mm out of the base circle

Tom

I wouldn't worry about HONESTY:) you do what ever you have to.:D
A lot of engines are done like that.
On Desmodromic Ducatis the shim top and bottom of the valve are usually rubbed down to size on an oil stone to suit.
The only difference whether you do the shim or the valve, is the cost. We know which is cheaper.:D

Harvey.

[TomsSVX]

Cheaper and easier to replace... Thats why I am going with the shims

Tom

[SilverSpear]

Tom, now I know that you are after large diameter shims under bucket for your project, why is that? and why aren't you after smaller diameter lash caps?

Sorry for being a noob at this, but as far as I have seen on websites, no one has installed large diameter shims under bucket. Only lash caps exist for that purpose.

[TomsSVX]

Tom, now I know that you are after large diameter shims under bucket for your project, why is that? and why aren't you after smalled diameter lash caps?

Sorry for being a noob at this, but as far as I have seen on websites, no one has installed large diameter shims under bucket. Only lash caps exist for that purpose.

I wanted lash caps at first... but there is simply not enough stem to do it

Tom

[TomsSVX]

WEll, small update, I know it has been a while but I have been waiting what semmed a lifetime to get my shims done. Finally got them back, a number of them were cut too thick (which is OK i guess) and I am missing two.

So, I went ahead and polished the couple that I needed to modify further down to their specs and I have the LH head completely done. The RH is done except the 2 shims I am missing and will have to inquire about Monday.

The headers for the engine have been tacked up for the most part and will be seam welded this upcomming weekend along with the water manifold. I should also have my collector kits here in time for me to finish the headers and send them out to be ceramic coated. I have the pipes for the exhaust here too. Decided we want to use a dual 2.25"in/3.0"out cat for after the headers to run back to a 3" SS resonator then out to a split back to dual 2.25" to two bullet mufflers. I am having trouble finding the cat so there is a possibility we will be using two individual cats then into a 2-1 collector.

I am really spinning my wheels without having all these shims. With only two days a week to get work done on this engine along with many others, any hang up w/ parts is really killing progress:(

Tom

[SVXRide]

another case of "Bill, trust your intuition and count the shims before shipping them to Tom" :mad:
What thicknesses are missing?
I'll call Sean on Monday morning....:o
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

since I am still waiting on engine parts to show up to finish it off....

I have been working on the rest of the car:)

Before

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0006.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0007.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0008.jpg

After

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0012.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0014.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0014.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0027.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0026.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0025.jpg

Tom

[shotgunslade]

Tom:
That's awesome. Can't wait to see it in person next weekend.
Dan

[SVXRide]

Ah, powdercoated goodness, Nevin's rear bar, and Whiteline lateral links! :cool:
(not to mention the upgraded diff bushings!). How much threaded length is left on either end of the center sections of the lateral links?
Are you going to box the longitudinal links?
-Bill
p.s. how much negative camber to you think we can get with the Whiteline pieces and still have a safe amount of thread engagement?
p.p.s nice to see that Dan's car is experiencing the same "rust impact" that RacerX did...gotta love that sea air (NOT!)

[subbieatnz]

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0012.jpg
Tom


Tom did you replace any of the rubber bushings in the rear subframe? ( I mean the ones that the bolts go thru to hold the subframe into the body )
Is there a Nolethane replacement that can be used? Or would that be consided to hard?
Because one of the bushings on my subframe is badly cracked and in need of replacement. ( My SVX project is to be a rd legal track car eventually )



Are you going to box the longitudinal links?
-Bill


What part is the longitudinal links? Is it the part that goes from the bottom of the rear hub to the subframe?

[TomsSVX]

The subframe bushings are non-serviceable. We had our powdercoated cook the non-coated subframe twice to make sure the bushings would not be damaged by the heat. Once we knew they would hold up we then went and had it coated in antique brass and then again with a clear finish which gives it the UBER gloss you don't really see that well in the pics.

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Ah, powdercoated goodness, Nevin's rear bar, and Whiteline lateral links! :cool:
(not to mention the upgraded diff bushings!). How much threaded length is left on either end of the center sections of the lateral links?
Are you going to box the longitudinal links?
-Bill
p.s. how much negative camber to you think we can get with the Whiteline pieces and still have a safe amount of thread engagement?
p.p.s nice to see that Dan's car is experiencing the same "rust impact" that RacerX did...gotta love that sea air (NOT!)

My arms got tired twisting the links to try and find the ends of the threads... You will run out of body clearance and axle length first. I will give an exact measurement when the other pair shows.

The car will be corner weighted, fully aligned, and dyno tuned before it ever gets back to Dan

Today: Front subframe, strut replacements(warrantee), brakes, camber/caster plates, control arms... fun stuff:D

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Installed

Front subframe, rack, new control arms, new fron koni inserts, new Kmac camber caster plates, New front wheel bearings with all new seals, removed dust covers from front brakes, new pads... I like playing hooky :lol:

Front end is just about done... Waiting on the new lateral links to show to finish off the rear and one more seal to do the last rear bearing. I can honestly say, the suspension in this car has gotten a lot more attention than I originally expected but it will look and perform exceedingly well which I am very excited about

Tom

[TomsSVX]

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0028.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0031.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0034.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0035.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0039.jpg

[SVXRide]

Need to get a real front sway bar on that bad boy! ;):lol:

Nice work!

-Bill

[TomsSVX]

Oh and do not fret. our upgraded X-member will bet installed powder coated the same color as the rest of the subframes

Tom

[BoxerFanatic]

Wow, this car is going to look better underneath than my car looks, period.

Nice job, and following the progress... Lots more pictures, please! :D

[SSSVX]

look GREAT! :cool:

can't wait to hear from dan's reviews on the tracks.

[shotgunslade]

Need to get a real front sway bar on that bad boy!

Nice work!

-Bill

Bill:

What did you have in mind?

Dan

[SVXRide]

Bill:

What did you have in mind?

Dan

Dan,
Oh, maybe something like this:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/SVXRide/20846.jpg

21.5mm
Mychailo's fabricator built this for me and I've had it on RacerX for a couple years now. Speaking from experience, it will rip the stock end link brackets off of our strut housings :eek: My suggestion is to run the car for a while and see if you really need the front end to "plant" more (I installed this bar before I went to coilovers)
-Bill
p.s. YT can talk to you more about it, as he's seen it up close and personal when he did the coilover install

[shotgunslade]

Bill:

As I became more and more used to the SVX on the track, I discovered the value of trail braking for front end bite to aid turn-in. I also found that for really tight turns, I should time and modulate my braking so that I was still braking past the apex, so that I could nail the throttle after most of the turning was done and allow the car to track out under full throttle. These tactics really reduced my understeering problems.

[SVXRide]

Bill:

As I became more and more used to the SVX on the track, I discovered the value of trail braking for front end bite to aid turn-in. I also found that for really tight turns, I should time and modulate my braking so that I was still braking past the apex, so that I could nail the throttle after most of the turning was done and allow the car to track out under full throttle. These tactics really reduced my understeering problems.


Dan,

You and your "after more and more track time"....I hate you! (j/k!!!!) :lol::lol:

-Bill

[shotgunslade]

Bill:

I haven't had theSVX on the track since June of 2008. A few trips to the track with the roadster in 2009, but I'm starved for seat time also.

[SVXRide]

Bill:

I haven't had theSVX on the track since June of 2008. A few trips to the track with the roadster in 2009, but I'm starved for seat time also.

Dan,
YT told me the roadster experience didn't end well. Are you going to trailer the SVX once you get it back from YT?
-Bill

[shotgunslade]

Nope. Street legal. Run what you brung. I'll just up my AAA membership to 100 mi. towing allowance and play it by ear. The hassle overhead for trailering isn't worth the assurance of a ride home if you break it on the track. The secret is to identify Subaru dealerships or OT's or YT's that are within the AAA towing radius of each track you visit.

[TomsSVX]

Well, got the new shims in the mail and got all the clearances checked out. Cams are installed and I will be prepping the engine for the rest of the day with all the powder coated goodies and new injectors and such. With some luck it might be in the car this weekend waiting for the headers and water pipe to come back from being ceramic coated

Tom

[SVXRide]

Well, got the new shims in the mail and got all the clearances checked out. Cams are installed and I will be prepping the engine for the rest of the day with all the powder coated goodies and new injectors and such. With some luck it might be in the car this weekend waiting for the headers and water pipe to come back from being ceramic coated

Tom

:cool::cool::cool::cool::domo::domo::domo:

-Bill

[TomsSVX]

Water Pipe and Headers are off to coating today. Meanwhile I will be loading the long block into the car so as soon as I get the headers back, I can begin working out the rest of the SS exhaust system. Going with two 2.25" 45* spun cats from Magnaflow, single 3" bullet resonator, dual 2.25" Bullet mufflers out to the tips. I cannot for the life of me find dual 2.25"in single 3" out SS merge collectors so I will be making them from scratch. Teasers

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/collector1.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/collector2.jpg

Oh yes, the exhaust will be using nothing but SS V-band clamps to keep it as low profile as possible

Tom

[shotgunslade]

Tom:

Looks great. When do you think it will be on the road? Also, do I need to think about getting a cheap lapop, so I can change the fuel air map from "NJ Emissions Testing" to "Having Fun"?

Dan

[TomsSVX]

Tom:

Looks great. When do you think it will be on the road? Also, do I need to think about getting a cheap lapop, so I can change the fuel air map from "NJ Emissions Testing" to "Having Fun"?

Dan


Dan, no real need to do that. I can setup a switch to change maps on the fly. I personally will not be tuning the car, I will be bringing it to Precision tuning in Toms River to have it Dyno tuned by their Hydra tuner. As of right now I do not feel I have the experience to get every ounce out of this engine like a pro would. I do need to know if you have the inspection information for this car, need to know if they are going to test for NOX

Tom

[TomsSVX]

To answer your question... As long as the coaters come through with their promise of everything being done next week, there is a possibility I might be able to have it going next weekend if I log some serious hours. Still waiting on the converters and mufflers to get in but they should be here early this week. I have all the tubing I am going to need already. Just gotta get the headers back from coat and make the rest up. Engine is as ready as it is going to be w/o the water pipe, I did assemble the intake w/ the new injectors and pretty bits, pics to load later tonight when I get to a computer that can pull them up

Tom

[SVXRide]

and how many bottles of Argon did you end up going through? :cool:
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

and how many bottles of Argon did you end up going through? :cool:
-Bill

Went 3/4 way through an 60lb bottle and about half a 40lb for purge... Still need to tig the rest of the system too;)

Tom

[SVXRide]

almost hate to ask how much the v-bands are running you...:rolleyes:

how did the collectors go together? did you use the kit that you have to weld the cone together first?

-Bill

[TomsSVX]

almost hate to ask how much the v-bands are running you...:rolleyes:

how did the collectors go together? did you use the kit that you have to weld the cone together first?

-Bill

Thats what I ordered but they shorted me the transition cones and the bullets:mad:

I am extremely happy with the way the collectors came out.

I was surprised to see how inexpensive the V-bands are... paid about $25 per kit from OBX

Tom

[SVXRide]

Thats what I ordered but they shorted me the transition cones and the bullets:mad:

I am extremely happy with the way the collectors came out.

I was surprised to see how inexpensive the V-bands are... paid about $25 per kit from OBX

Tom

and did they refund you any of the $$ you paid? Seems to me they should have overnighted you the transition cones and bullets for the sake of good customer service.

Not bad a price on the v-bands. Are they 304 SS?

-Bill

[TomsSVX]

and did they refund you any of the $$ you paid? Seems to me they should have overnighted you the transition cones and bullets for the sake of good customer service.

Not bad a price on the v-bands. Are they 304 SS?

-Bill

yes bill 304 for the flanges

as for cone, they have been closed since DEC 23rd and don't open till tomorrow, unfortunately I was on a tight schedule and needed things when I needed them... I improvised. I will call them this week to tear someone a new orifice.

Tom

[SVXRide]

yes bill 304 for the flanges

as for cone, they have been closed since DEC 23rd and don't open till tomorrow, unfortunately I was on a tight schedule and needed things when I needed them... I improvised. I will call them this week to tear someone a new orifice.

Tom

and it will be someone at Megs (http://www.coneeng.com/weld_on_collector_kit.html) who gets the new orifice? :eek::bash:

-Bill

[TomsSVX]

and it will be someone at Megs (http://www.coneeng.com/weld_on_collector_kit.html) who gets the new orifice? :eek::bash:

-Bill

yes, that is where I ordered from.

pics loading of work done thus far. I have postponed installing the engine to make it a bit easier to assemble the new water pipe and all its fittings which will need thread sealer before finalizing. Got some of the smaller tedious items out of the way like loading the accesories on the powder coated brackets, installing all the new pullies and the likes... Take note, Dan melted down his old engine pretty badly, so we needed to order all new timing covers due to the being melted (I guess it got pretty hot, after all it did melt the knock sensor cases down completely)

Tom

[TomsSVX]

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0103.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0100.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0097.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0095.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0089.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0091.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0088.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0086.jpg

Tom

[shotgunslade]

:D:D:D:D
Its beeootifull

[TomsSVX]

dan, we gotta do something about the alt and the a/c compressor... I can do my best to clean them up, but they will look so bad compared to everything else:o

Tom

[shotgunslade]

Tom:

What do you suggest?

[TomsSVX]

well a good clean look for the alt would be a rebuilt with a powdercoated case. The compressor is going to need to be thoroughly cleaned and polished as I am not able to disassemble it to have the case coated

Tom

[shotgunslade]

If I were to pick them up and clean them up, would the epoxy that you used on the block work?

[TomsSVX]

I would not need you to clean them up, I can set Mike on it while I work on the exhaust system this weekend. It is a ceramic high heat paint and it should be just fine, but it is paint will scratch and peel with heat and oils

Tom

[shotgunslade]

Just checked, a rebuilt alternator is about $120 or so. Can you actually get one with a powder-coated case?

[TomsSVX]

I have a local shop that does our alt rebuilds... We disassemble them, send the case out to be coated, then drop all the pieces off at our alt shop. Would have to ask Mike what it cost last time we did one, his was the last one we had done... This is something to think about, no rush right now as it is simple enough to R&R the alternator. As for the A/C compressor, polished case everywhere we can get to, or paint?

Tom

[shotgunslade]

I bow to your superior knowledge. Also, I haven't seem the engine in 6 months. So, your call.

[TomsSVX]

Dan, got some more pics for ya... Will be at the shop all day tomorrow working on it, give me a call if you like

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0111.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0109.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0112.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0113.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0115.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0119.jpg

Tom

[Tim]

Oh man... I'll be in south jersey today. I'll see if I can stop by the shop.

[SVXRide]

YT,

NICE! Looks like the new cross over pipe would still clear the IRIS if the IRIS was still there (okay, maybe not the vac can....).

Beautiful work, my friend!!

-Bill
p.s. how far is the AWD shop from Atlantic City? Thinking about combining trips.

[Tim]

YT,

NICE! Looks like the new cross over pipe would still clear the IRIS if the IRIS was still there (okay, maybe not the vac can....).

Beautiful work, my friend!!

-Bill
p.s. how far is the AWD shop from Atlantic City? Thinking about combining trips.

Bill- about 15 minutes. :)

[shotgunslade]

Tom:

All that looks great. I will give you a call.

Dan

[SVXRide]

Bill- about 15 minutes. :)

Tim,
Perfect!
-Bill

[SomethingElse]

that looks great....looks like the color of my car:)

[Mike621]

The engine bay is cleaning up quite nice, and the accessories are coming along as well. Eric and I are working on some particulars, and Tom is tig-welding the exhaust as we speak.

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn208/SubaruMike/photo2-1.jpg

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn208/SubaruMike/photo-7.jpg

[Mike621]

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn208/SubaruMike/AWD%20Final%20Month/DSCN3183.jpg

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn208/SubaruMike/AWD%20Final%20Month/DSCN3154.jpg

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn208/SubaruMike/AWD%20Final%20Month/DSCN3158.jpg

[SVXRide]

So, did YT come after you with a big wrench after the last photo...looks like he's giving you the "evil eye" :lol:

Are those actually catalytic converters right after the headers?

So, the exhaust system comes out in three pieces? (not counting the headers).

Looks nice!

-Bill

[STeeL25T]

Thats a beautiful car and an amazing peice of work. Can't wait to see it in action!

[shotgunslade]

I am in the presence of a master. That is gorgeous. Cant wait to hear what it sounds like. Pulled the trigger yesterday with OT for a fiberglass hood and HID headlight kit. Hoping to get the respray with new hood and 97 grille before Reading. Signed up for Trackmasters at Watkins Glen May 1 and 2, and Trackdaze for Summit Point Shenandoah course May 15-16. Need to get some rock chips on the enw paint job.

[BoxerFanatic]

The oval tips look great. I've had my eye on those for SVX for a while... I always wished they would have fit my Legacy.

The system looks great. as does the suspension.

[Tim]

I am in the presence of a master. That is gorgeous. Cant wait to hear what it sounds like. Pulled the trigger yesterday with OT for a fiberglass hood and HID headlight kit. Hoping to get the respray with new hood and 97 grille before Reading. Signed up for Trackmasters at Watkins Glen May 1 and 2, and Trackdaze for Summit Point Shenandoah course May 15-16. Need to get some rock chips on the enw paint job.

Dan, that is one nasty beast. I can't wait to see it. We'll definitely have to do a mini shoot of it in action.

[TomsSVX]

well, got her running... There is some bad news

The new water pipe configuration doesn't have the recirulation from the outlet of the LH cyl head like it had before.. This means there is no hot water getting the thermostat except from the heater core which is not hot enough by the time it gets to the thermostat... The stat is not opening... I am going to have to gut the stat in order for this to work... Will let you know how it goes

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Gutted the T-stat and refilled with coolant... Took it for a run, turns out my modifications to the injectors for the stock clips to work was not the solution.... They were just barely making contact and more than likely had some high resistance to the injector coil... I removed the clips from the harness for now and will test drive it again. From what I can tell, this thing is gonna rip:cool: Gotta figure out something for the thermostat though because I cannot keep the thing hot while driving

Tom

P.S. this thing sounds amazing :cool:

[Crazy_pilot]

Vids/sounds clips. Now. :banana:

[aust92pearl]

Vids/sounds clips. Now. :banana:

+1 :D:cool:

[shotgunslade]

Tom:

If I am visualizing the circuit correctly, the bypass flow may heat up the thermostat from the back-side, because, if the thermostat is closed, there is no hot water flowing nearby to open it. The bypass may also be a maximum pressure limiting feature to prevent the system from being over-pressurized from high revs when the engine is cold and the thermostat is still closed.

[TomsSVX]

Tom:

If I am visualizing the circuit correctly, the bypass flow may heat up the thermostat from the back-side, because, if the thermostat is closed, there is no hot water flowing nearby to open it. The bypass may also be a maximum pressure limiting feature to prevent the system from being over-pressurized from high revs when the engine is cold and the thermostat is still closed.

Dan, you are correct, I tried two different stats though, without either of them opening properly. I also tried warming the car up, shutting it off and hoping the heat would stay near the stat and open it... Neither worked... I am currently running the gutted stat and it is keeping it cool enough to drive and run the car... I am going to have to put my mind to it this week, there is a possibility we will have to relocate the thermostat to the top side of the engine somehow.

Tom

[SVXRide]

:confused:
YT,
Okay, are you saying the new top pipe is so non-restrictive that the coolant isn't staying in the LH head long enough to reach normal operating temperature (in what we would normally feel is the right amount of time)? Where did you install an aftermarket temp gage in the system, and what is it reading?
This whole cooling issue just keeps getting more and more interesting....
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

Bill, what??:confused:

No its not evacuating the head too quickly, but the stat is not seeing enough hot water to open because I deleted the LH head input to the water pump so it wouldn't be a simple loop. This means I will likely have to A) move the thermostat to the top pipe to the radiator B) Find a way to get hot water to the stat without it being a redundant circuit

Tom

[SVXRide]

Bill, what??:confused:

No its not evacuating the head too quickly, but the stat is not seeing enough hot water to open because I deleted the LH head input to the water pump so it wouldn't be a simple loop. This means I will likely have to A) move the thermostat to the top pipe to the radiator B) Find a way to get hot water to the stat without it being a redundant circuit

Tom

Tom,
D'oh! I didn't realize you'd deleted the LH head input to the pump, so I was jumping to an assumption that the coolant just wasn't picking up enough heat to open the stat. Think you could post up a drawing of exactly what the coolant circuit looks like on Dan's engine now? :cool:
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

Tom,
D'oh! I didn't realize you'd deleted the LH head input to the pump, so I was jumping to an assumption that the coolant just wasn't picking up enough heat to open the stat. Think you could post up a drawing of exactly what the coolant circuit looks like on Dan's engine now? :cool:
-Bill

You already did... The loop for the heater core comes out of the RH head, into the core, then out of the core on the LH side of the firewall and makes its way to the pump inlet... The hot water out of the RH head is not hot enough by the time it gets to the thermostat housing even with the heat off to get the thermostat to open.

In all honesty I never liked the idea of the stat being on the inlet to the pump... It never made any good sense IMHO... I will start looking at inline stats and see if I cannot move it to the exit of the engine

BTW just a quick sound clip
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/th_DSCN0120.jpg (http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/?action=view&current=DSCN0120.flv)

Tom

[TomsSVX]

what do you guys think of these... http://www.wilsonmanifolds.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=100

Tom

[SVXRide]

YT,
Inline stat looks like a winner. :cool:

I posted a new circuit drawing over in Tony's thread. Dug around in some pics on my portable and came across the hard lines that route up to the stock cross over. Think I've got it right now. So, did you just block off the one outlet from the pump and keep the other to feed the heater core?

Sound clip is very nice! Definitely not a "cop caller" at idle, but all business once you get in it.;)

-Bill

[TomsSVX]

YT,
Inline stat looks like a winner. :cool:

I posted a new circuit drawing over in Tony's thread. Dug around in some pics on my portable and came across the hard lines that route up to the stock cross over. Think I've got it right now. So, did you just block off the one outlet from the pump and keep the other to feed the heater core?

Sound clip is very nice! Definitely not a "cop caller" at idle, but all business once you get in it.;)

-Bill

You have to hear it winding up under load hehehe:D

Yes, I capped the inlet to the pump for the recirc line from the LH head. The outlet on the RH head is retained so the vehicle will still have heat when he wants it.

tom

[SVXRide]

You have to hear it winding up under load hehehe:D

Yes, I capped the inlet to the pump for the recirc line from the LH head. The outlet on the RH head is retained so the vehicle will still have heat when he wants it.

tom

Now, now, be nice to that engine! Gotta let all those custom pieces get to know one another ;):lol:

-Bill

[dynomatt]

Sounds good Tom...reminds me of mine.

M

[Tim]

That sounds incredible.

[shotgunslade]

Greetings from Dubai. I heard it all the way over here. I'm going to have to pussy foot around the neighborhod so I don't break any windows.

Tom, sounds really good. The in-line thermsotat also sounds like a good idea. Where in he circuit would you be putting that. I assume upstream of the radiaor, to get the warmest water.

Danny:

If you read this thread, sorry I didn't reach out to you while I was here. I was totally booked the entire time. Didn't even have a chanced to go skiing. I'll try to touch base next time I'm here.

[SVXRide]

Greetings from Dubai. I heard it all the way over here. I'm going to have to pussy foot around the neighborhod so I don't break any windows.

Tom, sounds really good. The in-line thermsotat also sounds like a good idea. Where in he circuit would you be putting that. I assume upstream of the radiaor, to get the warmest water.

Danny:

If you read this thread, sorry I didn't reach out to you while I was here. I was totally booked the entire time. Didn't even have a chanced to go skiing. I'll try to touch base next time I'm here.


Dubai and skiing mentioned in the same write up....ah, what an over abundance of wealth can do to a country;) Safe travels, Dan!
-Bill

[Dessertrunner]

What have you guys done about the power steering pump. At high revs it will boil the oil?
Tony

[shotgunslade]

Outlaw Engineering underdrive crank pulley. Chromed and beautiul.

[TomsSVX]

What have you guys done about the power steering pump. At high revs it will boil the oil?
Tony

also have plans for an external cooler for the P/S and engine oil... Just need to make sure everything else is 100% and then will proceed

Tom

[SilverSpear]

Greetings from Dubai. I heard it all the way over here. I'm going to have to pussy foot around the neighborhod so I don't break any windows.

Tom, sounds really good. The in-line thermsotat also sounds like a good idea. Where in he circuit would you be putting that. I assume upstream of the radiaor, to get the warmest water.

Danny:

If you read this thread, sorry I didn't reach out to you while I was here. I was totally booked the entire time. Didn't even have a chanced to go skiing. I'll try to touch base next time I'm here.

Wow! you were in Dubai? No prob. Next time let me know a month in advance so that I go there meet with you....

[Dessertrunner]

How much smaller is the pulley,
Also does your radiator still have the auto cooler as you can put the power steering through there.
Tony

[TomsSVX]

How much smaller is the pulley,
Also does your radiator still have the auto cooler as you can put the power steering through there.
Tony

The cooler in the rad would prob heat things up if anything... We will be routing them infront of the Condensor

Tom

[shotgunslade]

Just ordered 4 new Frozen Rotors:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa83/shotgunslade/5x3slotting1.jpg

[Crazy_pilot]

Just ordered 4 new Frozen Rotors:


Do you have a source for these other than Frozen Rotors' website? At $600+ for the set...I like good parts, but that's a little steep for me.

[shotgunslade]

Power Slot used to have a rotor that wasn't cryo treated for about $110 for fronts, but I checked their web site and they don't list it. You might contact them.

[Crazy_pilot]

Okay, I'll keep an eye out.

[TomsSVX]

Got the thermostat today... Just fired up the heat in the shop (damn its cold BTW) and will get it installed tonight... Also going to attempt to rewire the car with a new relay mod that will only allow the car to start in neutral... With the heavier pressure plate and seeing what happened to his last thrust bearing, using the clutch as little as possible is going to help the longevity of the thrust bearing esp when it is not oiled after sitting for a week

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Oh this is proving to be more *fun* than I expected... Had to cut the custom X-over pipe back some to squeeze the stat housing in... Forgot to grab some more silicone hose clamps while I was at work this week... Tomorrow is another day *sigh*

Tom

[SilverSpear]

Oh this is proving to be more *fun* than I expected... Had to cut the custom X-over pipe back some to squeeze the stat housing in... Forgot to grab some more silicone hose clamps while I was at work this week... Tomorrow is another day *sigh*

Tom

Tom, is it a Y or an X over pipe? And did you cut it on the bottleneck level just before the inlet of the rad?

[TomsSVX]

Tom, is it a Y or an X over pipe? And did you cut it on the bottleneck level just before the inlet of the rad?

Its a Y pipe i guess, just been calling it a cross(X)-over. Yes I trimmed it back just before the bend

Tom

[shotgunslade]

Tom:

I assume you got it running the other night. Did you take it out in the cold with the new T'stat.

Dan

[TomsSVX]

Tom:

I assume you got it running the other night. Did you take it out in the cold with the new T'stat.

Dan

If it was only just cold...We got a couple inches of very slippery snow yesterday... So no driving... Will see what I can do today, While I had it running, the temp was sticking right where I wanted it

Tom

[shotgunslade]

Funny. We got cold as hell, low teens, but only a dusting of snow, that quickly blew away.

[Dessertrunner]

And we got 44C here can we swap weather.
Tom you may have to drill a hole in the thermo to make sure you get some flow through the top pipe. I had a SVX back a couple of years ago that I brought that had an electric water pump. Temp sender was into the top pipe on the radiator. The pump wouldn't start becasue it was reading cool and because it didn't start it couldn't get a correct temp. Net result it cooked the motor.
Tony

[TomsSVX]

There is a jiggle pin in the failsafe thermostat from Wilson manifolds... No need

Tom

[SVXRide]

Pics of the install?:cool:

-Bill

[TomsSVX]

Right after I get the engine reassembled and back in..........:(

Long story short, the engine kicked back on me when I went to start it the other night when it was really cold... Jumped the timing belt... Reinstalled the belt and set it properly... Engine sounded and felt out of time. Also had some noise I didn't like very much... R/S camshaft is worn on the keyway and the key is broken in the gear... I need to ask my local machine shop if they might be able to repair the cam or else I call Web and send out another to replace it... Not fun.

Before you guys get jumpy, as far as I can tell right now, the valves never touched the pistons

Tom

[SVXRide]

Right after I get the engine reassembled and back in..........:(

Long story short, the engine kicked back on me when I went to start it the other night when it was really cold... Jumped the timing belt... Reinstalled the belt and set it properly... Engine sounded and felt out of time. Also had some noise I didn't like very much... R/S camshaft is worn on the keyway and the key is broken in the gear... I need to ask my local machine shop if they might be able to repair the cam or else I call Web and send out another to replace it... Not fun.

Before you guys get jumpy, as far as I can tell right now, the valves never touched the pistons

Tom

Ah, this would explain the fb fml status:(

hang in there!

-Bill

[TomsSVX]

Ah, this would explain the fb fml status:(

hang in there!

-Bill

Yes, fail has reached an all new high score for the deadline of this project

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Got the cam back after the repair... New pulley. Put the heads back on... Engine back in the car... Runs great again:)

I took pics of the thermostat installed but need to wait till I get to a computer to load them. Also took pics of the shift light and coolant overtemp light I programmed and installed... Amber LED in the A-pillar for the shift light and red LED in the blank switch space on the bottom of the cluster for the coolant overtemp warning (hey, you should have seen Dan's last engine after a coolant hose burst). Will get some more driving in it tomorrow, waiting to hear back from Precision when we can get the car up there for a full tune.

More as it comes, painter is coming this week to give me an est.

Tom

[SVXRide]

Got the cam back after the repair... New pulley. Put the heads back on... Engine back in the car... Runs great again:)

I took pics of the thermostat installed but need to wait till I get to a computer to load them. Also took pics of the shift light and coolant overtemp light I programmed and installed... Amber LED in the A-pillar for the shift light and red LED in the blank switch space on the bottom of the cluster for the coolant overtemp warning (hey, you should have seen Dan's last engine after a coolant hose burst). Will get some more driving in it tomorrow, waiting to hear back from Precision when we can get the car up there for a full tune.

More as it comes, painter is coming this week to give me an est.

Tom

Good news! Any thoughts on what caused the problem?
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

Honestly, not 100% sure but I think it may have been related to a weak battery w/ a weak starter not turning the engine fast enough. Finally caught combustion but might have a little too much timing at that particular time and kicked back (slow motion detonation).

I need to replace the battery still but I did get a new starter in it and cranks over perfectly now as long as it is on the charger.

Pics of the pulley, never got pics of the cam. You can clearly seen it didn't "wear" like they usually do, this was a single very strong abrupt force
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0132.jpg

Pics of the thermostat inline
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0128.jpg

and the lights installed
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0130.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h225/TomsSVX/DSCN0129.jpg

That is all for now... I am itching to get her up on the dyno now :D

Tom

[SVXRide]

ouch with the pulley! :eek:

think there is anyway to make that inline 'stat work with the stock pieces (assuming you can cut the upper hose into two pieces)?

-Bill

[Sov13t]

LED programmed into one of the aux ports of the Hydra?

What RPM does it light up at?

Pretty neat and clean!

[shotgunslade]

6500 rpm. Gives me some space to shift under full acceleration.

[TomsSVX]

I have it set to 6800RPM right now... Lets see exactly where the power band is on the motor and we can make a final decision from there:)

Tom

[oab_au]

Tom how many crank rotations have you got it set up to, before the ignition/fuel starts.

Harvey.

[TomsSVX]

not really how it works... Basically it takes until the positions sensors learn when the engine is... Meaining the cam sensor needs to trip once before the ignition will fire

Tom

[dynomatt]

Tom,

Has the Hydra got an autotune function?

Matt

[TomsSVX]

yes, but you need to have it setup for VE tuning not millisecond fuel tuning which is what I have been running

Tom

[oab_au]

not really how it works... Basically it takes until the positions sensors learn when the engine is... Meaining the cam sensor needs to trip once before the ignition will fire

Tom

Most of the units allow 6 crank rotations before the ignition is enabled. Lets the starter get the crank up to speed, before it is allowed to fire. I believe the standard unit does that.:)

Harvey.

[TomsSVX]

I find it very hard to believe the stock ECU allows 6 crankshaft revolutions before ignition. Not to mention, the Hydra has always allowed more time cranking than the stock ECU, not just on this engine

Tom

[Crazy_pilot]

My engine cranks 6 times at most before starting, generally 4 or 5 times, sometimes only once or twice.

[TomsSVX]

Chris, im talking 6 complete revolutions.. Thats 36 compression events... There maybe be 6 compression events before start on the coldest morninging

Tom

[Crazy_pilot]

Ah, gotcha. Although wouldn't 6 revolutions mean only 18 compressions, since the compression stroke occurs every other revolution?

[TomsSVX]

Ah, gotcha. Although wouldn't 6 revolutions mean only 18 compressions, since the compression stroke occurs every other revolution?

yea lol... :lol:

Tom

[shotgunslade]

I picked it up from Tom's shop yesterday. Poor shop, almost totally cleared out. Car is officially a beast. Very raw. A lot of power above about 2500 rpm. Not so much pulling away from a stop sign. The new front top mounts make you intimately aware of every single irregularity in the road. I'm taking my time, breaking in my driving technique along with the new engine.

I won't be able to get the respray before Reading, so may show up with black fiberglass hood and gray primed '97 grille.

[Sov13t]

I picked it up from Tom's shop yesterday. Poor shop, almost totally cleared out. Car is officially a beast. Very raw. A lot of power above about 2500 rpm. Not so much pulling away from a stop sign. The new front top mounts make you intimately aware of every single irregularity in the road. I'm taking my time, breaking in my driving technique along with the new engine.

I won't be able to get the respray before Reading, so may show up with black fiberglass hood and gray primed '97 grille.

TAKING YOUR TIME??? IN THAT BEAST??? YOU BETTER BE GOING THROUGH TOLL BOOTHS SIDEWAYS!!!

Congratulations on a very fine machine there. A lot of respect for sticking it out with the project. Now, make those vette's wonder what the hell just passed them on the Track :-D

Once again, congrats!

[shotgunslade]

It takes a little time to get used to it again. Haven't been behind the wheel of a stick shift car since I last had my roadster on the track June of last year. It is a very responsive car. With the mechanical lifters, and high ramp cams, there is a lot of mechanical racket coming out from under the hood, not to mention that glorious exhaust. Still need to get it aligned, so won't be trying any tricky maneuvers until that is taken care of. Then there is the tricky business on emissions inspection. Will give it a shot, but am also pursuing collector car registration.

Here is the dyno plot. NOt bad for an NA build. This is with 130 mi on the engine. When it is properly broken in with 1000 mi. or so, should pick up another 5 hp to top the magic 250 whp mark. Congrat and thanks, Tom.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa83/shotgunslade/SVX.jpg

[SilverSpear]

Very very not bad Dan! You've just accomplished my initial EG33 mod dream.
Nice figures, congrats!

[Crazy_pilot]

Awesome job! I love the torque, less than 25 ft-lb variance from 3-6K.

[lhopp77]

Heavily modded but still 100% SVX. Now that is the kind of mods I could handle or anything between that and stock. :) Shoot, I would love to make 250-260 crank HP!! Of course I would stay auto with a Level10 tranny.

Lee

[RallyBob]

Definitely love the torque curve. I hate that stupid 'IRIS' dip in the middle of the powerband however! Jack's car had that too until he removed it from the intake altogether.

[dynomatt]

Nice numbers.

Can't recall the exact specs but think they're similar to mine aren't they?

Goes to show what headers does...as that's again the only difference.

Is the rich mixture just for safety? I would think you should get a bit more power if you lean it out some.

Well done.

M

[TomsSVX]

yes, richness for safety... Running leaner esp in warmer weather could lead to a meltdown on a track day... Could have seen 250 wheel if we ran a bit closer to 13:1... but didn't really want to take the risk of that

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Definitely love the torque curve. I hate that stupid 'IRIS' dip in the middle of the powerband however! Jack's car had that too until he removed it from the intake altogether.

IRIS is nto functional... just held shut

Tom

[oab_au]

Definitely love the torque curve. I hate that stupid 'IRIS' dip in the middle of the powerband however! Jack's car had that too until he removed it from the intake altogether.

Bob the IRIS valve is fully open at 4000, it is just a plenum from then on. I can see the resonate peak from the Inlet and Exhaust is at 4500 where it develops max torque, the next peak at 5600 is the cams doing their best to fill the cylinder. Unfortunately they are not joining the party together.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa83/shotgunslade/SVX.jpg

If the inlet length was shortened to raise the resonate rpm to about 5800/6000 the two would do their cylinder filling together to develop a higher VE, instead of having them at different Rpm.

This has shown up on a few engine jobs. Matt's engine showed the same characteristics, for the same work.

Harvey.

[shotgunslade]

Harvey:

Don't know that the mismatch is a bad thing. It gives me a really wide torque curve at the expense of what might be a slight increase in peak HP. It is really sweet to get such a powerful response when I nail the accelerator at only 3500 rpm.

[oab_au]

IRIS is nto functional... just held shut

Tom

Tom you do mean held open, don't you?:)

Harvey.

[oab_au]

Harvey:

Don't know that the mismatch is a bad thing. It gives me a really wide torque curve at the expense of what might be a slight increase in peak HP. It is really sweet to get such a powerful response when I nail the accelerator at only 3500 rpm.

Yes it is probably 100% better that it was standard.:D

Harvey.

[Myxalplyx]

:eek:

Very late coming in and reading this. I just saw that torque curve while at work. Wow! Need to read up on this when I get home. Gawd....I want that.

[longassname]

For anyone who may be interested, I have ONE unspoken for set of these high compression pistons along side Cameron's at Calico getting coated. The lead time on them was right around 6 months.

[shotgunslade]

Personal endorsement. The EG33 with LAN's pistons, the Hydra Nemesis stand-alone and the Web Cams is dynamite. A lot of engine work to get the Web cams, because all of the valves must be changed for longer stem valves to accommodate the ultra-high lift cams, and the block must be relieved in a couple of locations. Yes, it is an expensive upgrade, but the rsults are glorious. I couldn't be happier. Young Tom did a fabulous job. :D:D:D:D

[longassname]

Thanks, I'm glad your motor turned out well. I think you may be the first person actually running these pistons. A couple other people have them but haven't installed their engines yet. Did you get yours coated?

To others who want to build high compression engines I actually have the unspoken for set of coated pistons in my hands now. They won't last long so if anyone wants them maybe grab them before I get a chance to send out emails letting people know I have them in stock.

[SVXRide]

Michael,

Price? Do they come with rings and wrist pins/c-clips??

Thanks.

-Bill

[longassname]

Bill I'll pm you--don't want to jack this thread.

Michael,

Price? Do they come with rings and wrist pins/c-clips??

Thanks.

-Bill

[TomsSVX]

Well, after the oiling issues with the engine we have decided to get an oil pressure gauge into the beast. Just finished sizing up the new rods, bearings, and crank to make sure the clearances are spot on. Will grab into the mains tomorrow.. Then reassemble. Not taking any chances, ordered a new oil pump... again.

Tom

[NeedForSpeed]

Well, after the oiling issues with the engine we have decided to get an oil pressure gauge into the beast. Just finished sizing up the new rods, bearings, and crank to make sure the clearances are spot on. Will grab into the mains tomorrow.. Then reassemble. Not taking any chances, ordered a new oil pump... again.

Tom

Tom,

What rod and main clearance are you shooting for?
What clearances were a problem, creating "oiling issues?"

thanks :)

[TomsSVX]

Tom,

What rod and main clearance are you shooting for?
What clearances were a problem, creating "oiling issues?"

thanks :)

Oiling issues are still undefined at this moment. I have been leaning towards a contamination issue from the cam break. Possibility minute debris got stuck in the relief valve of the oil pump dropping pressure across the board but was seen on the bank where the volume of the system is the largest with the most bleed off.

Right now the rods are at .28-.30 mm on clearance and will get a light touch which may take them out a little more to .29-.31

Mains will come close to being the same, need to double check the book before I get them done.

Tom

[NeedForSpeed]

Oiling issues are still undefined at this moment. I have been leaning towards a contamination issue from the cam break. Possibility minute debris got stuck in the relief valve of the oil pump dropping pressure across the board but was seen on the bank where the volume of the system is the largest with the most bleed off.

Right now the rods are at .28-.30 mm on clearance and will get a light touch which may take them out a little more to .29-.31

Mains will come close to being the same, need to double check the book before I get them done.

Tom

Thanks for your post, please post your final numbers.
Are your mics in mm or thousandths?

[TomsSVX]

mm... I hate inches

Tom

[Crazy_pilot]

Metric system FTW! :lol:

[SilverSpear]

Metric system FTW! :lol:

Yeah you should all convert to the metric system, way cooler and more accurate than the inch.

Even on ODOs, how cool would it be to to see the 260Km/h figure instead of 180 or whatever you guys have :p

[RallyBob]

mm... I hate inches

Tom

Everything seems more impressive in mm....:lol:

[oab_au]

Oiling issues are still undefined at this moment. I have been leaning towards a contamination issue from the cam break. Possibility minute debris got stuck in the relief valve of the oil pump dropping pressure across the board but was seen on the bank where the volume of the system is the largest with the most bleed off.

Right now the rods are at .28-.30 mm on clearance and will get a light touch which may take them out a little more to .29-.31

Mains will come close to being the same, need to double check the book before I get them done.

Tom

Missed a zero there, std. is 0.020mm - 0.045mm.:)

This problem of No.5 rod bearing going out, is something that I think, maybe related to the sustained high rpm of the modded engine. These two rods are the last in line, on the oil delivery flow. I believe that the higher centrifugal force that the crank throws generate, is pumping the oil away from these two rods faster than the delivery flow can feed them. So they start to overheat from the friction to run the Aluminum shells. I think the Tri-metal, copper/lead shells stand up to the heat better.

Don't know how you could improve the flow to the back end of the oil gallery, a bit hard to run an external line to the rear end. It appears to me from looking at the book, that the RH main gallery feeds No. 1,5,6,and 7 mains, and the No.5 main, feeds No. 4, and 5 rods.
The LH gallery feeds 2,3,4, mains.

It is hard to see it from just looking at the book, you have the block split, and have seen the gallery's, so you maybe able to see a way to the rear of the RH gallery.

Harvey.

[TomsSVX]

yes I missed the zero lol.

A general low pressure due to a malfunction in the pump will cause the issue you just described.

I am using the trimetal ACL's for the rods already for that reason.

Tom

[dynomatt]

I haven't split my case yet, but you've piqued my curiousity to see whether my one that failed was number 5 too.

Hmm.

M

[TomsSVX]

I haven't split my case yet, but you've piqued my curiousity to see whether my one that failed was number 5 too.

Hmm.

M

typically it is #2 that locks..> At least in my experience it is.

Tom

[Crazy_pilot]

Can we use the EJ20/25 oil pumps? (For some reason I'm not able to search things right now... Stupid Mac.) I seem to remember Marisa mentioning that in her TT build thread. If so, any thoughts to the Cosworth high volume/high pressure pump?

http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=22&idproduct=42

[oab_au]

Can we use the EJ20/25 oil pumps? (For some reason I'm not able to search things right now... Stupid Mac.) I seem to remember Marisa mentioning that in her TT build thread. If so, any thoughts to the Cosworth high volume/high pressure pump?

http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=22&idproduct=42

There were two difftrent thickness to the pumps that were on the Nissans, but we already have the 12mm width rota.

Harvey.

[TomsSVX]

The EJ pumps are typically smaller than ours and not to mention only hold one slot for a position sensor. You *could* but you would need to work the tone wheel with one to match a single trigger and use a hydra or some other form of EM

Tom

[Trevor]

The EJ pumps are typically smaller than ours and not to mention only hold one slot for a position sensor. You *could* but you would need to work the tone wheel with one to match a single trigger and use a hydra or some other form of EM

Tom

It would appear possible to adjust for a difference in sensor count electronically.

[TomsSVX]

What do you mean? The stock ECM requires the input of the second crank trigger for proper grouping of the cylinders. W/o it the stock ECM will not function. You can however use an aftermarket computer as they use only two of the three sensors to make the position.

Tom

[shotgunslade]

Don't think this failure can be attributed to sustained high rpm running. It failed toward the end of its third 30 minute track session of its first track day. The first session was really slow as I signed up for a novice class to get an instructor because I'd been off the track for a while. Also, I wasn't routinely taking it up to 7200 rpm as I did with the old engine. The torque curve drop off is such that I was generally shifting about 6800 rpm to get back to the sweet spot. Prior to this track day, the engine was babied for break-in, never going over 6000 rpm, and usually held to about 4000.

The old engine lived through 23 track days, each of which had at least an hour of track time, some, as much as 2 hours. I routinely shifted about 7200 rpm.

Finally, what I perceived as a return of the dreaded 5mt stall syndrome, which actually re-appeared before this first and final track day, likely was due to increased bottom end friction (Tom mentioned the thrust bearing was worn down when he tore the engine down, whereas it was not worn when the engine was built)

All this suggests an oiling problem not associated with track use, but rather with some failure of the oiling system.

[TomsSVX]

Well looks like my suspicions were correct on the oiling... Got around to taking the pump apart the other day... There was some scoring inside the pump from debris passing through the rotors... More importantly the relief valve was jammed open. This means when he started the engine and had something along the lines of 80psi of pressure, the valve stuck open there. So once the oil thinned from the heat the pressure was way down and thus, flow was way down. Overheated the oil quite easily and cooked the bearings from a lack there of.... Good to know the cause has been found and is positively fixed... Long block is done and I am finishing off assembly and installation this week:)

Tom

[dynomatt]

Nice one...any photos of the pump etc?