Painted alternator

[redlightningsvx]

Well I was changing the hoses and check valve the other day and had my alternator out so I decided to clean it up a bit. I used a small wire brush on my dremel on low speed and removed all the crud off the entire thing. Then used some ceramic semi-gloss black engine paint and gave it 3-4 coats. Here's the final result.....don't mind the dirt on everything else.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll54/redlightningsvx1/Engine%20cleanup/DSCF0005.jpghttp://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll54/redlightningsvx1/Engine%20cleanup/DSCF0007.jpg

[Chuckles]

Looks good... Just a question though. Isn't painting the copper coil inside the Alternator bad? Kinda looks like you did that here, but it looks real nice.

[redlightningsvx]

It shouldn't have an effect on it because electricity is still flowing through the wires. I think Mike had his powdercoated and it has no effect. Thanks for the compliment.

[1986nate]

It shouldn't have an effect on it because electricity is still flowing through the wires. I think Mike had his powdercoated and it has no effect. Thanks for the compliment.

Pretty sure Mike had his case taken apart and then powdercoated so therefore the copper inside is still clean with nothing on it. Not saying that painting on the copper WILL be a problem, but it could.;)

[redlightningsvx]

I know but I think he had the wire coated gold because it isn't coppor colored.

[svxcess]

Current flows around the outside surface of a wire, not through it. All windings (even those that appear to be bare copper) have been sealed with a high temperature insulating paint before assembly)

That is why you can get water on the windings and not have them short out.

I had the windings in my high-output alternator clear-coated to appear close to stock, but many colors are used. Yours were already coated so this is just an extra (cosmetic) layer.

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[redlightningsvx]

Thanks for clearing that up John, I really wasn't 100% sure on the matter but knew it could be painted.

[Mike621]

I taped off the inner copper and spray painted the outer part gold.

It looks good Seth. Now you just need to do everything else. :lol::)

[longassname]

has anyone else noticed how hard it is to get a decent alternator for our cars?

I knew better but bought one from advanced auto. It has a lifetime warranty but I had to exchange it 3 times before I got one that charged acceptably at 560 rpms.

[SVXMAN2001]

mike, john (svxcess) has discussed a manufacturer who rebuilds to stock spec and above and has apparently been more than satisfied with its performance, may want to inquire further with him...

[redlightningsvx]

I taped off the inner copper and spray painted the outer part gold.

It looks good Seth. Now you just need to do everything else. :lol::)

Yea I know. Next is the a/c compressor as I need to replace the high pressure line thrusday so I have working a/c finally. I'm just goint to do all 3 componants in front semi-gloss black power steering/alt./ a/c compressor.

[longassname]

too bad you have a 94..I have a 92 line sitting around gathering dust. I put a 94 evaporator in my 92 pearly

Yea I know. Next is the a/c compressor as I need to replace the high pressure line thrusday so I have working a/c finally. I'm just goint to do all 3 componants in front semi-gloss black power steering/alt./ a/c compressor.

[redlightningsvx]

I got one from work, gotta love subie employee discounts:)

[svxcess]

mike, john (svxcess) have discussed a manufacturer who rebuilds to stock spec and above and has apparently been more than satisfied with its performance, may want to inquire further with him...

If you want a stock 95A rebuild, you can't get any better than MANIAC ELECTRIC MOTORS (http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/13406.html)

Price is less than a third of a Subaru remanufactured with twice the warranty!!
Two year warranty. $138.00 outright or $78.00 with a core exchange.

They charge for shipping to you, but will send a call tag for you to return the old alternator core to them at no cost to you.

Plus, during the warranty, shipping is covered both ways by them.



For the 160A high-output unit, click HERE (http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/hiou160ampal6.html)

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[longassname]

did they ever talk to you about low rpm output of the high amp alt vs the standard alt?

[svxcess]

Depending on the vehicle applications and loads, at engine idle speeds of 650-800 RPM, the alternator current (amperage) output of our 95A alternator can be as low as 35% of the full-rated output.

This gives about 33A at idle and the rest at about 3000rpm.


The 160AHigh output alternator incorporates finer wire in their windings and is constructed for low-speed performance. These units produce about 55% of their max at idle.

This gives about 88A at idle if needed and the rest by around 1800rpm. this is more in the range that we need it.

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[longassname]

sure sounds good...I don't know enough to have an educated opinion on it but if it's true it's definitely more along the lines of what we need.

[svxcess]

sure sounds good...I don't know enough to have an educated opinion on it but if it's true it's definitely more along the lines of what we need.

I agree totally.

Using the stock 95A alternator, I have turned on every possible accessory and system simultaneously. I think there is a total combined current draw of about 50-60A. A typical winter scenario: Idling in a snowstorm

Climate control
rear window defroster
Heated mirrors
stereo
headlights and fog lights
wipers front and rear
brake lights and/ or flashers

At idle, a vehicle's electrical loads may exceed the low-speed current (amperage) output (33V) of our stock alternator and when this happens the shortfall comes from the battery. This results in a drop in the electrical system voltage as the battery delivers the additional electrical current to meet the demand.

This was with the alternator wiring upgrade. the stock wiring configuration would be harder on the alternator charging system due to increased resistance of old and corroded wiring.


With the high-output unit, the 50A+ load could still be present at idle, and easily supplied by the HO unit (88A) alone without any help needed from the battery. Alternator doesn't have to work as hard = less heat generated = longer life.


In the original circuit design, the stock 95A alternator MAY have been adequate when new with good wiring, clean grounds and connections. Adding 17 years of heat and corrosion to the wires, faulty grounds, increased loads like aftermarket stereos and the like and problems start to arise. That is how the original alternator wiring upgrade came into being-- helping overcome deficiencies of the present wiring.

To date my electrical system has never run better! I have had no abnormalities, odd symptoms or a runaway alternator trying to turn my polo into a rolling marshmallow roast.

A side note: Measuring your system voltage with a voltmeter plugged into your cigarette lighter will give you false readings. The heat generated through that circuit cause the wires to corrode and have increased resistance over time. This makes your reading about 0.5V lower than it actually is.

I measured the voltage drop many times. With the engine running, I plugged my voltmeter into the cigarette lighter and then to another lighter receptacle, attached to battery clamps and connected at the battery.

The voltage measured at the battery connection was higher.


For more information, go back to my post on ALTERNATOR 101 (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?p=583457&highlight=Alternator+101#post583457)

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