Twin Turbo EG33 Build - cozykat [Archive] - The Subaru SVX World Network

cozykat

03-17-2009, 11:56 AM

This a thread where I can try to document my build with information, images (stored on photobucket), and cost.

The plan: rebuild eg33 - lowering compression to 9:1 and going with forged internals, run standalone ecu (hydra), add twin turbos (something like two T2560), and update exhaust.

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Initially, I was rebuilding my engine because I thought the engine was experiencing rod bearing failure. Once we started taking my engine apart, Shaun noticed that my flex plate had a thin V-shaped crack in the center (noticeable when directly pushing on it). So we think this is most likely the reason for the horrible noise @ 4000rpm instead of bearing failure.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/th_DSC00190.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/?action=view&current=DSC00190.jpg)
4 reasons I decided to continue with the rebuild:
1. my engine was already out on a stand
2. we weren't 100% sure that the flex plate was problem or just a coincidence and I didn't want to swap engines again only to immediately need to swap for a 3rd time.
3. Shaun's '92, 90k engine runs significantly better than my '93 150k engine in my car which told me my car could run better even with a simple rebuild.
4. the excitement of the rebuild had already got a hold of me.

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Engine Rebuild Projected Costs (your prices may vary):
-----------------------------------------------------
Swapping engines (~$230 - Fluids, Gaskets, hoses, clamps)
Subaru Gasket Kit ($250.00)
Eagle-H Rods ($465.00)
Crankshaft ACL Bearings ($200.00)
CP 9:1 Forged Pistons w/ pins and rings ($948.00 / $1896 for Shaun and I together)
ARP Studs (long/short) ($320.00)
Outlaw Phenolic Spacers ($115.00)
GrimSpeed Ported Exhaust ($280.00)
Cometic Head Gasket Set ($190.00)
Hydra + wideband (optional) (~$TBA)
STI injector set (550cc) ($360)
Cams (~$600) - still to do
Walbro Fuel Pump 255lph ($84)
Custom Exhaust (~$TBA)
Machine work: Total w/ misc parts ($870)
Stock Crank - Polish/Balance (~$70.00)
Stock EG33 Block - Bore to 98mm ($140.00)
Heads - Resurfaced/Check Align Bore ($170.00)
Intake/Exhaust Valve Seals (~$105.60)
Valve Job($150)/Replace Valve Guides($50)
Balance Engine (with pistons, rods, crank) ($150.00)

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Current Status:
-----------------------------------------------------
2009.01.17.SA/SU: So far, Shaun (YourConfused), Matt and I have removed my engine and swapped in Shaun's spare from his 92 (so I can still drive my SVX while her heart is being worked on).
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/th_DSC00187.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/)http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/th_DSC00200.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/?action=view&current=DSC00200.jpg) Swap cost: ~$230 to replace fluids, hoses that broke due to age, etc.

2009.03.14.SA: We've have torn the engine down and are waiting for a slot to open up at the machine shop (3 week waiting period).
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/th_DSC00408-1.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/?action=view&current=DSC00408-1.jpg) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/th_DSC00407.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/?action=view&current=DSC00407.jpg) Cost: blood, sweat, and cursing

2009.10.09: Got my block back from Duffin Engine Service machine shop. yay! Looks great, except the block isn't as clean as I wanted it so I'm taking it to get soda blasted when I get some free time and $.

lots of time passed...

2014.2.18.TU: I'm back at it.. Picked up STeeL25T's Hydra, cleaned up long block, hard lines, and coated with motor paint (fuel resistant,etc)
Cleaned and assembly restarted (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=732156&postcount=122)

long block assembly complete (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=738309&postcount=143)

more to follow...

Crazy_pilot

03-17-2009, 12:41 PM

:eek::eek::cool: Go for it!!!

*subscribed*

Splinter

03-17-2009, 01:27 PM

Why not go to something a little more boost friendly like an 8 or 8.5 tops?

longassname

03-17-2009, 02:49 PM

All sounds very good to me, right down to your turbo choice. You're going a similar route to me. I'm doing the same thing except with m24 garrett turbos and my own engine management with an svx maf stuck on the inlet of each turbo and an hks or hks knock off foam filter on each maf. Water injection, no intercooler.

tubbstcg

03-17-2009, 03:11 PM

Sounds great hopefully this idea will come to life. Two thumbs up. :D

jakea

03-17-2009, 03:31 PM

sounds like a dream, be sure to post exhaust routing pictures!!!!:)

Crazy_pilot

03-17-2009, 03:37 PM

With compression numbers and turbo sizes like that, I'm guessing you're aiming more at a nice driveable torque curve than crazy peak power numbers?

subbieatnz

03-18-2009, 02:16 AM

Good luck. watching this thread closely

cozykat

03-18-2009, 10:52 AM

Why not go to something a little more boost friendly like an 8 or 8.5 tops?
As I understand, 8/8.5:1 compression may be boost friendlier but it will effect my low-end torque more. I think our more technical members could better explain why than myself. I want more power and higher-end torque without sacrificing a lot of my low-end torque. OT, Shaun, and a couple of STI (one EVO) guys seem to agree that dropping to 9:1 is a good medium for our engines. It will only decrease the stock 230bhp by ~4% (or ~9bhp) and I probably will not notice since the block will be bored, have head work, etc to improve flow.

All sounds very good to me, right down to your turbo choice. You're going a similar route to me. I'm doing the same thing except with m24 garrett turbos and my own engine management with an svx maf stuck on the inlet of each turbo and an hks or hks knock off foam filter on each maf. Water injection, no intercooler.
Thanks, I have been trying to plan this out carefully so I don't get slapped with too many surprises. The most difficult was deciding what I wanted to ultimately accomplish and then look at how I should go about it. Watching cost has also been important as it sure builds up and it's easy to get carried away - I try to reality-check myself periodically. I will post my costs as they arise to better help others plan their own build. I think what eats my budget the most is the hydra. While conveniently awesome, its a good portion of my projected $6k cost (not including another $2k+ for the turbo setup). I wanted to try and setup my own engine management system but with projects/work, finishing my masters, etc it's like: "what free time? oh you mean sleep!"

I am considering meth injection but am holding off that decision until I am actually in the process of the turbo. Will you also be installing a tank that includes a level sensor, or installing a water pressure gauge?

With compression numbers and turbo sizes like that, I'm guessing you're aiming more at a nice driveable torque curve than crazy peak power numbers?
Yup, I don't plan on ever making this a track/race car just use as daily driver. My goal is to hit maybe 300whp if I make a little +/-, I don't mind.

longassname

03-18-2009, 11:09 AM

i'm driving around on 8.5 compression na right now. It's not so bad. You can feel comfortable going that low if you want. It will certainly give you more cushion to not need charge cooling as much.

longassname

03-18-2009, 11:14 AM

I think your turbo choice is good. The installation will be much cleaner this way than trying to fit a bigger turbo or turbos in. I think your car will actually end up being twice the car that a less realistic build would end up producing.

I think you'll find by the time you get to needing to purchase engine management you'll be able to feel comfortable getting a retune of the oe engine management from me instead of the hydra.

cozykat

03-19-2009, 12:16 AM

Thanks LAN for your confidence. This build is scary for me as I don't have prior build experience - more learning as I go so I'm trying to make careful decisions.
As I understand your EM systems, they are piggy-back?
So far, I think the Hydra is my best choice not just because its proven that it will communicate well with the SVX but also believe it provides the most tuning options that I know of in a stand-alone system - "end all be all" as some STI guys call it. Having an engineering background makes me want to know the status and have the ability to control the ECU. I think the Hydra will satisfy that. The price is heavy but I take comfort in knowing my STI friends don't get it any cheaper. :p

Splinter

03-19-2009, 12:33 AM

As I understand, 8/8.5:1 compression may be boost friendlier but it will effect my low-end torque more. I think our more technical members could better explain why than myself. I want more power and higher-end torque without sacrificing a lot of my low-end torque. OT, Shaun, and a couple of STI (one EVO) guys seem to agree that dropping to 9:1 is a good medium for our engines. It will only decrease the stock 230bhp by ~4% (or ~9bhp) and I probably will not notice since the block will be bored, have head work, etc to improve flow.

FWIW I'm running 8.5:1 in my 2.2L turbo impreza, and it has more bottom end torque than my 9.5:1 stock RS25, despite having 300cc less displacement.

With your standalone, you'll be able to ramp up ignition timing for low RPM/off boost driving with the low compression, which mostly makes up for it.

longassname

03-19-2009, 07:05 AM

The hydra replaces the oe ecu. It's an after market ecu. It's supposed to be a good one.

What I do is change the tuning in the oe ecu. It's not a piggy back. A piggy back is what they call something that fiddles with the signals going into and out of the ecu to modify what the ecu does. I don't make one of those. My memory adaptors are just a means of putting modified firmware into the oe ecu.

The reason to get the hydra is because it's designed to let you do your own tuning. The reson to get a retune of the oe engine management from me is because you want me to do it for you so you don't have to do your own tuning.

I'm going to guess I'll have my turbo system done before you'll have yours done so you'll be able to see the results of mine before you have to shell out any $$ for any engine management no matter which route you go. Speaking of coinciding projects, it sounds like we will both have the same flanges. You can get the turbo flanges ready made off ebay and you can get the eg33 exhaust flanges from smallcar but I'm going to cut some eg33 exhast flanges out of stainless flat bar and not profile the sides and cut a turbine inlet flange with extra material left on the top so I can weld it's edge to the edge of the exhaust manifold flange. I can cut you a set too if you want. This will stop the exhaust system from putting too much stress on the exhaust manifold tubing when the engine torques and hopefully prevent any cracks.

SVXRide

03-19-2009, 12:04 PM

Marisa,
Best of luck with your build! Who's pistons are you going with? (CP?)
-Bill

Alex-svx

03-20-2009, 10:44 AM

This sound amezing:) i wish i had one turbo on my car hehe.. And you are building two. :D God luck.

cozykat

03-21-2009, 12:45 AM

Thanks! Yup, getting CP pistons. Shaun sent off our pistons to them. I think its a 3 week turn around.
The turbos won't be going on anytime soon. I have to build and break in the motor first. My thinking is that probably around August, the turbos will start making their appearances. It's just nice to have some clarity in the build... it started out real foggy. :lol:

I would like to share a video - starring Matt, Adam, and Shaun:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/th_MAQ00420.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/?action=view&current=MAQ00420.flv)
Aside from two small bolts on part of the EGR system, we didn't have any other bolts snap or rusted on. We did have one cam bolt that wouldn't budge. We thought we needed an impact to get it off which was crazy because, I think, they are only suppose to have like 60ft/lb torque on them - maybe I'm mistaken. Either way, this bolt was not coming off so we had to get creative.. and it wouldn't be me if I wasn't recording it. This is when the bolt finally broke free - you can see the breaker bar bending.

remember kids: don't try this at home. safety first.

TomsSVX

03-22-2009, 07:26 AM

Sounds like a pretty solid plan Marissa. If you need some water-jet flanges for the exhaust, let me know I have a couple sets in stock.

tom

YourConfused

03-22-2009, 07:53 AM

Sounds like a pretty solid plan Marissa. If you need some water-jet flanges for the exhaust, let me know I have a couple sets in stock.

tom

Do they differ from the smallcar ones? How thick are they?

TomsSVX

03-22-2009, 07:57 AM

Do they differ from the smallcar ones? How thick are they?

Mine are 3/8" mild. I have used small-car's in the past and they are good. but not all that great on price. I have finally found a water-jet guy to do some intake manifold flanges for me, so I have him do half a dozen exhaust flanges while he was at it

Tom

TomsSVX

03-22-2009, 08:05 AM

Wow, nm. Small-car's are $30 a piece which makes them $60 a pair( I thought they were twice as much). I am asking $100 a pair for mine. As long as small-car still has them. (I know they didn't want to stock them for a little while) I would recomend you buy their's

Tom

YourConfused

03-22-2009, 08:57 AM

cozykat

03-26-2009, 04:32 PM

So, I ran the SVX at San Antonio Raceway with Shaun's stock block (~92k) and my stock tranny (~80k). I thought it would be a nice comparison for later.

My best time was 15.7s @ 87mph and I weighed in at 3660lbs (with me in the car).

Weather conditions (3/25/06) while at the track (Zip:78257):
--Time--------Condition/Felt Like-----Dew Pt--Humidity--Visibility-------Pressure--------------Wind---------
6:05 PM - Mostly Cloudy 81°F / 82°F --- 62°F --- 52% -- 10.0 miles - 29.71inches (steady) - From SW/3mph
7:05 PM - Mostly Cloudy 81°F / 82°F --- 62°F --- 52% -- 10.0 miles - 29.72inches (up) ----- From ESE/6mph
8:05 PM - Mostly Cloudy 76°F / 76°F --- 60°F --- 58% -- 10.0 miles - 29.72inches (steady) - From NE/14mph
9:05 PM - Partly Cloudy 66°F / 66°F ---- 53°F --- 63% -- 10.0 miles - 29.75inches (up) ----- From NNE/8mph
10:05 PM - Partly Cloudy 63°F / 63°F --- 53°F --- 70% -- 10.0 miles - 29.78inches (up) ----- From E/9mph

Johnybeas

03-29-2009, 05:35 PM

Awesome info! I'm glad someone is going to actually post prices and pics n videos of it all, its good stuff! This is very similar to what I want to do! I want to go single turbo though like a gt40 series. Can't wait to see more! plus dyno and track results!

SVXMAN2001

03-30-2009, 06:46 AM

cozykat, how did you remove the get the piston pins out?

YourConfused

04-09-2009, 06:46 AM

cozykat, how did you remove the get the piston pins out?

She has a vid of me taking it apart with a little tool i made at work. It's basically removing the pin clips and then beat the pins out with a long steel rod.
I think the vid is on her photo bucket account which is in her sig.

(I had OT tell me how to do this over the phone btw, but if you can watch the clip Marissa recorded it should give you an idea)

cozykat

04-10-2009, 10:18 AM

that vid isn't posted yet because its a large file. I will try to find a way to post it though.

svxcess

04-10-2009, 10:40 AM

.

Marisa,

Reading is less than a week away, so stop wasting time posting and get back to dancing... because you know that sleep is out of the question!

http://i31.piczo.com/view/4/q/r/l/z/i/n/w/j/a/i/x/img/t328379031_77401_5.gif

It's almost Reading AGAIN!

.

lhopp77

04-10-2009, 05:15 PM

My best time was 15.7s @ 87mph and I weighed in at 3660lbs (with me in the car).

Dayyymmm--that's 350lbs more than my car weighs with me in it. :) :p

j/k

Lee

cozykat

04-13-2009, 11:41 AM

haha!
yes, but which car is it?!?
I wiegh 130lbs :P so my car weighs:(math for the kiddies) 3660-130=3530lbs

yay reading!

evilsvx

05-05-2009, 04:30 PM

any updates? since my headgasket im planning to rebuild the whole engine and install a tt setup on my svx too. i heard that stock engine can hold up to 400 to 500 hp. is that true or just bs? my plan is to get from 430 to 450 hp to the engine.

svxistentialist

05-06-2009, 07:19 AM

This a thread where I can try to document my build with information, images (stored on photobucket), and cost.

The plan: rebuild eg33 - lowering compression to 9:1 and going with forged internals, run standalone ecu (hydra), add twin turbos (something like two T2560), and update exhaust.

-----------------------------------------------------
Initially, I was rebuilding my engine because I thought the engine was experiencing rod bearing failure. Once we started taking my engine apart, Shaun noticed that my flex plate had a thin V-shaped crack in the center (noticeable when directly pushing on it). So we think this is most likely the reason for the horrible noise @ 4000rpm instead of bearing failure.

4 reasons I decided to continue with the rebuild:
1. my engine was already out on a stand
2. we weren't 100% sure that the flex plate was problem or just a coincidence and I didn't want to swap engines again only to immediately need to swap for a 3rd time.
3. Shaun's '92, 90k engine runs significantly better than my '93 150k engine in my car which told me my car could run better even with a simple rebuild.
4. the excitement of the rebuild had already got a hold of me.

-----------------------------------------------------
Engine Rebuild Projected Costs (your prices may vary):
-----------------------------------------------------
Swapping engines (~$230 - Fluids, Gaskets, hoses, clamps)
Subaru Gasket Kit ($250.00)
Eagle-H Rods ($465.00)
Stock Crank - Polish/Balance (~$TBA)
Crankshaft ACL Bearings ($200.00)
CP 9:1 Forged Pistons w/ pins and rings ($948.00 / $1896 for Shaun and I together)
ARP Studs (long/short) ($320.00)
Outlaw Phenolic Spacers ($115.00)
GrimSpeed Ported Exhaust ($280.00)
Cometic Head Gasket Set ($190.00)
Hydra + wideband (optional) (~$TBA)
STI injector set (550cc) ($360)
Stock EG33 Block - Bore to 98mm (~$TBA)
Heads - Flow bench/Machining (~$TBA)
Intake/Exhaust Valves (~$TBA) / Valve Seats (~$TBA)
Springs (~$350)
Cams (~$600)
Walbro Fuel Pump 255lph ($80)
Custom Exhaust (~$TBA)

-----------------------------------------------------
Current Status:
-----------------------------------------------------
2009.01.17.SA/SU: So far, Shaun (YourConfused), Matt and I have removed my engine and swapped in Shaun's spare from his 92 (so I can still drive my SVX while her heart is being worked on).
Swap cost: ~$230 to replace fluids, hoses that broke due to age, etc.

2009.03.14.SA: We've have torn the engine down and are waiting for a slot to open up at the machine shop (3 week waiting period).
Cost: blood, sweat, and cursing

Pretty much just ordering parts listed above and watching my pennies.

more to follow...

All sounds very good to me, right down to your turbo choice. You're going a similar route to me. I'm doing the same thing except with m24 garrett turbos and my own engine management with an svx maf stuck on the inlet of each turbo and an hks or hks knock off foam filter on each maf. Water injection, no intercooler.

Melissa

Your priced menu does not seem to include any figures or items for charge cooling. Yet you are talking to Tom about water flanges. Does this mean you are planning to use a water or water/alcohol injection system? Without some cooling system, the whole thing will not work. Merely reducing the CR to 9:1 will not be sufficient to avoid the sort of problems Tom got with the Stage 111 install with detonation and timing getting hauled back. I flagged this problem way, way back in 05/06 and so it proved to pass.

Also I'm inclined to agree with Michael, you would be better going for 8.5:1 or lower. This build is now a different engine than the NA motor, so you should be optimising for forced induction. Remember that you are boring out the cylinders, and the flat 6 has different low down torque characteristics than the 4 cylinder cars the Sti guys are used to, so you should be much less fearful of lack of pulling power off boost.

You have probably already ordered the pistons, but IMHO you would be better with going to at least 8.5.

Looking forward to your progress report :D

Joe :)

TomsSVX

05-08-2009, 04:28 PM

Melissa

Your priced menu does not seem to include any figures or items for charge cooling. Yet you are talking to Tom about water flanges. Does this mean you are planning to use a water or water/alcohol injection system? Without some cooling system, the whole thing will not work. Merely reducing the CR to 9:1 will not be sufficient to avoid the sort of problems Tom got with the Stage 111 install with detonation and timing getting hauled back. I flagged this problem way, way back in 05/06 and so it proved to pass.

Also I'm inclined to agree with Michael, you would be better going for 8.5:1 or lower. This build is now a different engine than the NA motor, so you should be optimising for forced induction. Remember that you are boring out the cylinders, and the flat 6 has different low down torque characteristics than the 4 cylinder cars the Sti guys are used to, so you should be much less fearful of lack of pulling power off boost.

You have probably already ordered the pistons, but IMHO you would be better with going to at least 8.5.

Looking forward to your progress report :D

Joe :)

Not really Joe. With the power goals she has in mind the pistons will fit perfectly. remember that a higher compression ratio piston will build boost faster. Not to mention, I have been able to create very nice power with the stock 10:1 CR with an uncooled charge. I have no fear in stating that with a higher boost level, a properly sized and efficient intercooler she can make 150hp more than I am now. Not to mention the engine loves timing, just not in low gears. With the Hydra Nemesis you are capable of trimming timing off the map depending on what gear you are in. I have yet to dial my car in with this feature, but it is my next step.

Marisa, good luck with the project, it has sound logic and will become an excellent reality as long as all the proper routes are taken. Keep us updated

Tom

svxistentialist

05-08-2009, 06:05 PM

Thanks Tom. Good to hear yours is working well now. {I like your new spider too. Or tick :rolleyes:}

My main point was with no figures or cost for charge cooling, I think she will be limited in what boost will work. In which case the cost of the build will not be rewarded with what power can be achieved. Not without some form of cooling.

Some of the more recent turbo Subaru EJ20 engines are using 9 CR and higher, but they have the flexibility of variable valve timing to change power parameters, [plus they all have charge coolers]. The EG33 does not have this benefit. Also the more modern engines are delivering relatively conservative horsepower, more conservative than the 97-00 engines. This is because they are now tuned to give clean emissions to match new and future directives. I'm assuming Marissa will not be restrained by emissions concerns, and that she would be looking for good hp and torque figures in return for her investment.

Joe

TomsSVX

05-08-2009, 06:29 PM

Well Joe, quite frankly I would call her a fool if she did not add an intercooler into her system. That being said, she is no fool and neither are the other people involved in the development of her engine. I had the pleasure of meeting some of them at Reading this year. So I can only imagine that she simply did not add it in yet.

Tom

Thanks Tom. Good to hear yours is working well now. {I like your new spider too. Or tick :rolleyes:}

My main point was with no figures or cost for charge cooling, I think she will be limited in what boost will work. In which case the cost of the build will not be rewarded with what power can be achieved. Not without some form of cooling.

Some of the more recent turbo Subaru EJ20 engines are using 9 CR and higher, but they have the flexibility of variable valve timing to change power parameters, [plus they all have charge coolers]. The EG33 does not have this benefit. Also the more modern engines are delivering relatively conservative horsepower, more conservative than the 97-00 engines. This is because they are now tuned to give clean emissions to match new and future directives. I'm assuming Marissa will not be restrained by emissions concerns, and that she would be looking for good hp and torque figures in return for her investment.

Joe

svxistentialist

05-08-2009, 06:33 PM

Yeah, that's the way I'm reading it too.

I can't resist this, and there's only one way to say it, so I'm saying it:

COOLING IS AWESOME!!!

:rolleyes: :tongue:

BoxerFanatic

05-08-2009, 08:06 PM

color my interest piqued.

I've wanted to put an EG33 into a mid-engined chassis with twin external wastegate turbos and twin intercoolers, Ferrari 288 GTO style... in a car that looks like a hybrid between the 288 GTO and McLaren F1. Window-in-a-window and a couple of other SVX allusions included. :D

For the front engined SVX, a dual-core FMIC would be almost the only way it would work. Where would one even put two, or one large TMIC under the hood?

redlightningsvx

05-08-2009, 08:26 PM

You could be like Tom and cut a huge hole in your hood.:lol:

YourConfused

05-09-2009, 06:26 AM

STeeL25T

05-11-2009, 09:40 AM

Concerning cooling;
I don't think I gave her the current spreadsheet with the cooling parts list and numbers at the time of her posting prices. To keep it simple, the system will (should) rely upon an air to water intercooler that will take input air from each side and allow for a single (well twin t.b.) exit up top. Using the psychometric chart at work I figure that cooling moderate boost levels at around 600cfm should fit under the stock hood to avoid butchering the stock lines of the car. she is (I think) still kind of interested in a FMIC setup. I don't like the idea of increased volume on the compressor side of the intake as it just increased lag and makes pluming more extensive. Plus if you hack the bumper (and of coarse the bumper beam) up to fit in a decent sized FMIC, your insurance company won't like you much.

p.s. pics of internals will be posted in a few days

I'd like to hear more about this. I was planning to run a like 7 or 8 psi on my single setup without an intercooler cause it shouldn't be a problem, but again I have been figuring that if the motor is being built up anyway then I may as well crank up the boost.. So I was keeping my eye on some smaller front mounts that kinda fit our bumper openings, like long and short (er, not tall) but decently thick. If your water to air is better I would definately consider it over that though. Will it work with a single setup and a Toms systle intake pipe?

Tim

05-11-2009, 10:03 AM

Plus if you hack the bumper (and of coarse the bumper beam) up to fit in a decent sized FMIC, your insurance company won't like you much.

p.s. pics of internals will be posted in a few days

Does the Stevesby bumper allow for fitment of an intercooler since it has a bigger opening?

YourConfused

05-11-2009, 05:25 PM

I'd like to hear more about this. I was planning to run a like 7 or 8 psi on my single setup without an intercooler cause it shouldn't be a problem, but again I have been figuring that if the motor is being built up anyway then I may as well crank up the boost.. So I was keeping my eye on some smaller front mounts that kinda fit our bumper openings, like long and short (er, not tall) but decently thick. If your water to air is better I would definately consider it over that though. Will it work with a single setup and a Toms systle intake pipe?

To be honest i don't have a svx with a motor in it to size things up properly. I can't give a real answer (sorry), but will say no.

YourConfused

05-11-2009, 05:27 PM

Does the Stevesby bumper allow for fitment of an intercooler since it has a bigger opening?

I was under the impression that those bumpers weren't really that available. If they can be had, then they would look great with a FMIC stuffed in there.

YourConfused

05-11-2009, 06:18 PM

the rods came today:

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05421.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05422.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05423.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05424.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05425.jpg

YourConfused

05-12-2009, 09:43 PM

Got the pistons today! (edited to remove stupidity)

here are a couple of pics anyway:
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05426.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05428.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05427.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05433.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05442.jpg

YourConfused

05-12-2009, 09:48 PM

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05436.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05435.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05434.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn277/yourconfused/engine%20build/DSC05431.jpg

I thought the pics would be smaller, sorry

longassname

05-13-2009, 08:00 AM

Ya the bores on those are probably too big for the oe head gaskets. Head gasket clearance is starting to get tight on my high compression pistons which have a 97.4mm bore. I don't think I'd go any bigger or even that big with low compression pistons. Increasing bore increases compression.

You also might want to double check your compression height; it looks like it is getting a little low.

longassname

05-13-2009, 08:19 AM

Ok, you posted the spec sheet while I was typing my last post. That compression height is fine. I think the actual compression is higher than calculated though.

The bores on those are too big not too small. You have the wrong number for the stock bore. The stock bore is 96.9mm=3.8150 You're off by 40 thousandths.

If you go to 97.0 you'll be able to just hone the block. 3 thousandths aught to be enough to get the bores round. If you go any bigger with your bores you have to bore and hone which is kind of throwing money out the window.

You also don't have clearance to maintain zero interference operation with performance camshafts if she is getting any.

svxash

05-13-2009, 08:40 AM

WOW those are nice looking pistons!!! Almost a shame you won't be able to see them once installed.

longassname

05-13-2009, 08:59 AM

98mm? These pistons are spec'ed for a 3.858 bore which is 98mm.

I looked back and saw further down in her price list that she has cometic head gaskets listed. They have a larger bore so you should be able to use these pistons. You'll have to bore and hone and rechamfer the cylinder liners as you are taking quite a bit off of them.

I believe the cometic head gaskets also have a higher compressed height than oe head gaskets so although the squish area will be kind of tall the compression ratio should come down to the 9.0 that was specified. It looks to me like they correctly made what was ordered.

YourConfused

05-13-2009, 09:46 AM

STeeL25T

05-14-2009, 12:25 PM

Are you keeping the stock cam specs?

YourConfused

05-17-2009, 02:43 PM

Are you keeping the stock cam specs?

no
I am not sure she has decided what she wants for head work as what I proposed is a little too pricey. We are both a little too busy ar this moment to make any decisions either way, but at least any direction she goes won't require 2 months to get parts made like the CP pistons did.

Johnybeas

05-18-2009, 11:12 PM

wow 2 months for the pistons??

YourConfused

05-18-2009, 11:17 PM

wow 2 months for the pistons??

yeah, seems when I called to cancel the order they were magically ready a few days later. lol In reality it took a little more than 2 months, but whatever.
I should have called to cancel sooner I guess.:lol:
they are, with all the other parts for the short block, at the machine shop now.

STeeL25T

05-29-2009, 09:45 AM

SilverSpear

05-29-2009, 10:28 AM

$190 a set? That is not possible I guess.

A supplier quoted me $131 a piece.

cozykat

06-02-2009, 10:15 AM

Going over you parts list and stealing things from it and had some questions:

Where are you getting the Cometic head gaskets for 190 a set? The price I wrote down was 137.74 a peice, if your getting them cheaper someplace I'd love to know where =)

And forgive me for asking this again, I'm assuming its a stupid question... What part numbers are you using for the ARP bolts?

So far my list is coming up a bit under 3000 bucks... without bearings...or a trans...or a turbo...or engine managment lol

The 190/set price was because back in April, there site said $88 and Tom bough them for that price. It has since jumped up to $137/each. I intended on buying them then but was distracted with school and will now have to pay that higher price as well. :/
I will get my ARP receipt and pull the numbers for you this evening.

longassname

06-02-2009, 10:51 AM

You will find the 4 short studs for the front will need about .01" ground off of the nose. Assuming you don't have a coolant fed grinder at home you may want to go ahead and take them somewhere to get them done ahead of time.

STeeL25T

06-02-2009, 01:55 PM

Thats bad news for all of us. Wonder what happened to make their price go up nearly 50 bucks?

Johnybeas

06-05-2009, 12:26 AM

damn.... wish I could get good prices like that!

YourConfused

06-26-2009, 08:35 AM

damn.... wish I could get good prices like that!

When I made the spread sheet they were that cheap. Now the prices have gone retarded.
I was pricing out valve train the other day and found that for some reason Ti valves are the same price, but the locks have doubled in price???
I know particular countries are buying up all the Ti for military reasons, but why leave one part the same price and double the price of another?
Due to lack of available info and ignorant people I can't determine if it can be attributed to the alloy matrix or not.
Say the valves are chaeper because they ahve a mix of 6/4 AL/V and the locks are more pure with a 3/2.5 mix (just a guess at what alloy mix may be used) which would make them cost a wee bit more. But really, what the hell? Did (fake) oil prices effect the refinery of the Titanium, aluminum or vanadium (amoung the other tinny bits of metals that may make up the alloy like chromium, columbium, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum) that much last year for them to feel the need to double prices on particular parts as has been done?
WTF People just suck! (But don't always inhale as our former douche stated)

Sov13t

06-26-2009, 10:24 AM

Johnybeas

07-08-2009, 02:23 AM

Heh, if we are talking about cometics... the website that we ordered from was listing them at a much lower price due to the fact that they didnt bother updating it... thus when orders were placed they still honored them which is very nice of them... so they were losing money with our purchases. I guess after 3 or 4 orders they decided it was enough :o

-Soviet

lol AKA the webmaster got *****ed at enough to get off his lazy ass and update the page... lol thats cool though that you guys got such good prices, I just hope that when I get around to doing mine I can find some good prices. any progress on this? hows the engine build coming???

cozykat

07-30-2009, 11:54 AM

Yeah, that's the way I'm reading it too.
I can't resist this, and there's only one way to say it, so I'm saying it:
COOLING IS AWESOME!!!

:rolleyes: :tongue:

hehe.

Yes, I do plan on installing in intercooler (and expect the piping to be the "fun" part). I play with the idea of meth injection because its so bloody hot in texas. Right now I am more concerned with getting the engine built exactly as I want... then I will run NA for a bit while things break in properly. It all just takes time and money.

So my project is still in the works! I know! Its been forever but I'm trying to graduate next week and my master's project has eaten all my free time.. plus with the master's in EE, I will finally start making the money this project really needs. :p

ps. I am also swapping to an 08' STI oil pump and getting a fluidamphr (http://www.fluidampr.com/)harmonic balancer / crank pulley.. they are the AWESOME but pricey (like ~$370)

svxistentialist

07-30-2009, 01:28 PM

Seraphinwolf

07-31-2009, 06:52 AM

As I understand, 8/8.5:1 compression may be boost friendlier but it will effect my low-end torque more. I think our more technical members could better explain why than myself. I want more power and higher-end torque without sacrificing a lot of my low-end torque. OT, Shaun, and a couple of STI (one EVO) guys seem to agree that dropping to 9:1 is a good medium for our engines. It will only decrease the stock 230bhp by ~4% (or ~9bhp) and I probably will not notice since the block will be bored, have head work, etc to improve flow.

Subscribed.
This compression what what I will choose on my EZ30R going in my Impreza when I turbo it later down the road for the same reason. Though I have my mind set on a single GT40R twinscroll with a light hot side to spool somewhere in the 4-4.5Krpm range to have it when I want but not have to boost all day. I'd love to twin turbo a second SVX if I got one as I'd like to leave this one as an NA build so I'll be eager to see how you route things and what does/doesnt' work. GOOD LUCK!
-Gaddis

cozykat

07-31-2009, 09:39 AM

I'm glad to hear it.

Your engine will never make real numbers after all that money sunk into it without the charge cooling.

There's nothing really stopping you putting in both meths/water injection in addition to some sort of cooler. :cool:

BTW Marisa, you will probably get a bigger Front mount intercooler to fit by cannabalising the front bumper, but this will mean long piping with all the drawbacks that entails. However, if you were to emulate the Top Mount type used by the Legacy GT, the air slot in the hood will suit the SVX, and shout out the fact it is turbocharged.

;) :)

Yeah, I am still struggling with myself if I want a FMIC or TMIC. I like the legacy's subdued look (http://z.about.com/d/cars/1/0/W/t/1/gj_10legacygt.jpg).. heck I love the impreza RS hoods (http://www.baronecomposites.com/images/DSCN0931.JPG) too! lol However, I have also contemplated getting the other svx open mouth bumper (http://www.motorsportwarehouse.com/ebaypix/euro2.jpg) from Dayle..

svxistentialist

07-31-2009, 03:16 PM

Yeah, I am still struggling with myself if I want a FMIC or TMIC. I like the legacy's subdued look (http://z.about.com/d/cars/1/0/W/t/1/gj_10legacygt.jpg).. heck I love the impreza RS hoods (http://www.baronecomposites.com/images/DSCN0931.JPG) too! lol However, I have also contemplated getting the other svx open mouth bumper (http://www.motorsportwarehouse.com/ebaypix/euro2.jpg) from Dayle..

Well for what it's worth I'll offer my opinion. You would be best suited by using the system that works best, rather than go for style or looks.

That will be dictated by the highest pressure you intend to run, plus the efficiency of the cooler you install. There are plenty of experienced turbo people here who will probably agree that the FMIC has major advantages in terms of size and air throughput, putting it as front runner if your ultimate goal is horsepower. They will still have the disadvantages of long feed pipes though.

The Legacy style looks neat, and will work perfectly well if you buy an efficient one. However, to make one work in the SVX it will take more than just a slot in the hood. There is not enough clearance. You would need a 'bump' in the hood under the air slot to accommodate the cooler. Personally I think this would look the proverbial dog's b.......x, but it is extra bodywork. :rolleyes:

Best of luck with the deliberation.

Joe :)

TomsSVX

07-31-2009, 03:24 PM

Front mount will keep it in the high pressure stream of airflow and be more efficient than a top mount. Not to mention the added costs of having to modify the hood.

Tom

redlightningsvx

07-31-2009, 04:28 PM

Or you could just cut a big hole in the hood?:lol:

TomsSVX

07-31-2009, 04:35 PM

Or you could just cut a big hole in the hood?:lol:

Hey!! I resemble that remark:p

Tom

Crazy_pilot

07-31-2009, 05:05 PM

What about a couple small fender well intercoolers, 300ZX style?

cozykat

09-21-2009, 09:48 AM

cn: I'm back on the project.

I got preoccupied with completing my master's project to graduate in August and then shortly afterward, getting a job. Exiting my student job (training my replacement) and now starting my new job has taken a bit of a toll on me and my time.

Free time that I did have, I spent working on other people's cars (cars they needed to get to work yesterday). Also I got to help put together a ej205/257 hybrid in my friend's wrx so I feel a bit better about putting my block back together.

Now things are looking steady and I'm ready to refocus on my car. So my first task is to remember where I left off and then I will update as I progress.

p.s. I do not know if I have mentioned this before but I am considering meth injection as an added cooling method because texas is ridiculously hot. :lol:

svxistentialist

09-21-2009, 11:21 AM

Congratulations at completing the project and especially getting a job!! ;) :D

It's great to hear you are back on building your car again.

A hot Texas babe in a hot Texas SVX. What's not to look forward to??

:p :)

Joe :lol:

SVXRide

09-21-2009, 01:23 PM

Marisa,
Congrats! Is your MS in engineering or another field? Staying with Southwest Research?
-Bill

cozykat

09-22-2009, 08:48 AM

Thanks!!

It was an MS in electrical engineering. I was fortunate enough that Southwest Research hired me on full-time. With all of the trouble my friend have been having finding jobs, I wasn't sure if I'd get hired. Thankfully I was and feel safe enough to continue with my car goodies. :)

TomsSVX

09-22-2009, 06:25 PM

sounds great!! Congrats on the degree and I look forward to seeing your build come to fruition

Tom

cozykat

10-01-2009, 05:02 PM

small update

Yesterday I purchased:
oem 12mm oil pump ($122)
oem knock sensors (2 x $63 = $126)
walbro fuel pump + install kit ($90 shipped)

next on my list to buy:
cometic head gaskets (http://www.cometic.com/sportcompact.aspx) ($137.74 x 2 = $275.48 :tard: because I waited)
fluidamphr harmonic balancer (crank pulley) (http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=22201&cat=1481) ($330 shipped)
Water pump (I remembered this today, after my subaruparts.com order :rolleyes:...
Timing Belt (I'm wondering if Greddy or Gates might have one.. or can get one to fit the svx.. will contact them soon).

will update my main posting later.. already purchased a lot of things but mostly small items... gaskets, hoses, etc.

oh.. sometime in the future, I will probably be calling one or both Toms for an idea on what I should do for my exhaust cam profile.....

SilverSpear

10-01-2009, 05:06 PM

Marisa, contact Nick Arias for good prices...

Check HERE (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51753&highlight=nick+arias)

STeeL25T

10-03-2009, 08:06 AM

Keep us posted on the timing belt, I was just thinking about that last night. If you knew how many teeth are on the stock belt I'm sure Greddy or PE or someone can get you a "super strong" belt the same size.

TomsSVX

10-03-2009, 08:13 AM

The EG33 has more width to its timing belt than any suby 4 banger. Regular maint. intervals will prove you won't need a stronger belt

Tom

STeeL25T

10-03-2009, 09:57 AM

I figured it wouldn't be a big deal since no one here talks about it, but seeing as I bought my car with a broken timing belt I didn't think it would hurt to look into haha

SilverSpear

10-03-2009, 11:52 AM

The EG33 stock belt is really durable, when I changed my first set, it was at 70K kms and the mechanic told me it still has a lot of life into it. Didn't need to be changed back then.
Now I keep it as a spare in my car... just in case.

cozykat

12-04-2009, 09:57 AM

Been sick for awhile and just utterly drained from work to do much of anything.
Engine came back from the machine shop and ended up costing double the expected $420 as they did more work than initially planned but they are an excellent shop so I trust what they did. (I'll post my receipt in a few for cost break down).
I recently bought the fluid damphr harmonic balancer:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/fluidamphr/th_DSC02365.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/fluidamphr/?action=view&current=DSC02365.jpg)

And this week (using the SubaruParts.com cyber monday deal) bought the water pump. Still need to buy my timing belt and idler pulleys. Holidays are eating more of my money than I hoped. :lol: I'm driving to South Carolina with Matt for Christmas and so I have to budget for that as well.

My goal for the rest of the month is to get my block soda blasted to clean it of coolant stains, etc, and buy the sway bars from Nevin (nothing to do with the build but still eats into the fund).

SVXRide

12-04-2009, 08:55 PM

Been sick for awhile and just utterly drained from work to do much of anything.
Engine came back from the machine shop and ended up costing double the expected $420 as they did more work than initially planned but they are an excellent shop so I trust what they did. (I'll post my receipt in a few for cost break down).
I recently bought the fluid damphr harmonic balancer:

And this week (using the SubaruParts.com cyber monday deal) bought the water pump. Still need to buy my timing belt and idler pulleys. Holidays are eating more of my money than I hoped. :lol: I'm driving to South Carolina with Matt for Christmas and so I have to budget for that as well.

My goal for the rest of the month is to get my block soda blasted to clean it of coolant stains, etc, and buy the sway bars from Nevin (nothing to do with the build but still eats into the fund).

Okay, so I'm almost afraid to ask how much the balancer set you back (nice choice!!)
-Bill

Nevin

12-06-2009, 02:35 PM

Been sick for awhile and just utterly drained from work to do much of anything.

...

My goal for the rest of the month is to get my block soda blasted to clean it of coolant stains, etc, and buy the sway bars from Nevin (nothing to do with the build but still eats into the fund).

I have a lightweight Perrin pulley, but was looking at the Fluidampr pulley myself as well recently. Did you just buy one for an EJ motored car?

And I don't mean to "interupt" your build with such a silly thing like a swaybar! lol This looks to be very impressive, and from the looks of your reasearch, I think things will go just fine.

Best of luck on your project Marisa!

-nevin

cozykat

12-07-2009, 09:33 AM

haha. Nevin, I think you did a great job with the sway bars and seeing as it should really improve the handling, I wouldn't say it interrupts the build.. accenutates? supports? lol

Our pulleys are the same size as the Imprezas. So yes, you simply buy the one for the EJ series. :)

Subaru EJ INTERNALLY BALANCED Damper Specs:
Fluidampr Part #: 531101 Street Series
Housing: ST
Finish: BZ
O.D. : 5-3/8”
WT.(RWT.*): 6.9 (4.6)
BORE DIA. (MIN/MAX): 0.9436 / 0.9446
Length: 1.927

Bill, the cost of the fluidamphr was $328.50 shipped from Extreme PSI (http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=22201&cat=1481), they also sell the ATI balancer for about $60 more.

Nevin

12-07-2009, 09:26 PM

cozykat

12-08-2009, 08:54 AM

My new Subaru water pump arrive today. lol That is all.

This past weekend OT came down to San Antonio and wouldn't you know that my SVX breaks while he's here! I've had four things randomly break in 10 years: alternator, battery, radiator neck crack, and MAF sensor.
This weekend the top bolt, holding my driver's side caliper in place, decided to unscrew itself out while I was driving on the highway. At first, I thought it was this old truck next to me then I realized it was the sound of my caliper scraping the wheel. :( Luckily, we got home safe and Tom said my diagnoses was correct (the bolt came off). Also found out the axle boot was freshly torn all the way around - double fun! So all of that got repaired yesterday.

Seraphinwolf

12-31-2009, 06:30 AM

twiddles thumbs waiting for next update...
I got a TD04 for free last month and can get a few more cheap currently and with soon picking up a MS2 for the SVX I'm getting that itch and it's all your fault Marisa! ;)

On the intercooling note. I"ve seen a couple pipedream drawings on the wall at Synaptic3 using RX7 OEM intercoolers and using them as part of new manifolds. The two main guys over there are secrect SVX nuts and their mother is on her third SVX. (Sweet old lady about 5' tall... maybe 80lbs! LOL)
On the FMIC note I would think a long skiny core up front with do the trick just fine. Plus just adding in a hood scoop just in place to run fresh air over the engine and cool the engine bay will provide all the cooling you need. Along with a nice say PRW radiator. Seriously this radiator rocks! I actually have to NOT turn on the heat in the car till the engine warms up cause it cools so efficently in the winter. Even to the point that if I set the fan too high it cools too much and I get blasted with cool air...:lol:

cozykat

08-16-2010, 10:56 AM

Okay.. so I am terrible at updating. Well really, there wasn't much to update on.

I decided to purchase Mike's 244 duration intake camshafts with the 264 duration exhaust camshafts (http://www.ecutune.com/svx_camshafts.htm) since they seemed like a good option. From order to delivery it took about 2 months (I think) due to it being a custom job. Mike has to acquire cams first since I opted to keep my stock cams. I consider installing my stock cams and dynoing and then swapping to compare results. However, I kinda just want my engine together already. :lol:

good news: started assembling my block. A coworker who is a veteran mechanical engineer offered his workshop and guidance. His job is building/rebuilding engines while testing the effectiveness of oil lubricants. Considering it is my first engine build from the ground up, I've been hesitant to simply start slapping things together. While I can follow directions, I lack the experience to have developed techniques and tricks to ensure a successful build. So its been a great opportunity for me to learn good techniques.

The short block is assembled and its starting to look like a long block:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/DSC03283.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/DSC03309.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/DSC03326.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/DSC03328.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/DSC03337.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/DSC03335.jpg

NeedForSpeed

08-16-2010, 11:02 AM

Hi Marisa,

Nice pics, it looks like you are making great progress :cool:
Keep the pictures and news coming :)

cozykat

08-16-2010, 01:56 PM

Thanks :) This will probably be one of the slowest builds EVER! :lol:

Side note: As Shaun (yourconfused) mentioned way earlier.. I like the idea of a FMIC.. the alternative would be air to water intercooled. I am still struggling with my final decision and probably will until I simply purchase one or the other.

I don't think I posted up pictures when I played with the Perrin FMIC (purchased for the STI) and the bumper I got from Dayle (http://svx-motorsport-accessories.stores.yahoo.net/svxeufrbu.html):
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/bumper/DSC02947.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/bumper/DSC02950.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/bumper/DSC02952.jpg
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/bumper/DSC02954.jpg

sd2649

08-16-2010, 06:01 PM

Looks very nice! I plan on dropping the engine out of my parts car sometime this year. It runs well but has 160k on it.. i don't plan on such a nice rebuild, just a very stockish overhaul one of these days.. i would love to see that in pieces, looks like fun!

Cam

08-16-2010, 06:53 PM

Looks extremely nice. How long will you wait before you introduce forced induction?

By the way, I like your dial torque wrench. :)

Phast SVX

08-16-2010, 09:29 PM

cozykat

08-17-2010, 08:37 AM

STeeL25T

08-20-2010, 05:38 AM

Your catching up to me... I need to get my rear in gear haha

Good progress!

Johnybeas

08-23-2010, 11:58 AM

Yeah, in the STI we had to remove the bumper beam altogether. I don't want to do that in the SVX but I don't want to hack anything either. I need to see what the dimensions are for the Mini FMICs. Maybe they are narrower but just as long... Again, I may just go air to water but it was cool to see as far as the bumper was concerned, the opening was just about a perfect match to the intercooler.

Most companies sell a replacement bumper support beam with their FMIC kits I'd like to get the dimensions of the perrin one and see if it will bolt up to our front end with little to no modification. will check into it.

sd2649

10-13-2010, 08:15 PM

Any more progress? Where is this being built in SA?

cozykat

10-19-2010, 12:59 PM

oab_au

10-19-2010, 03:27 PM

In my garage. And yes some progress made, but I'm slow. I was supposed to have everything sealed up this weekend but got side tracked. Breaking down and ordering wiring harness.. Having exhaust and intake manifold coated but I'm fighting myself about the iris and if I should just remove it.

I would keep it, as it will still provide the torque between 2000 to 4000, that may be lacking with the turbo. Every little bit helps.:)

Harvey.

Phast SVX

10-19-2010, 07:06 PM

I would keep it, as it will still provide the torque between 2000 to 4000, that may be lacking with the turbo. Every little bit helps.:)

Harvey.

FWIW I have kept mine with no issues.:confused:

LetItSnow

10-19-2010, 08:04 PM

FWIW I have kept mine with no issues.:confused:
Mine seems to have disappeared! :eek:

The same, there's a reason the thing's there: It's a performance part. Naturally, by adding some turbo action, it either helps the same, is just in the way, or... could be tweaked? Is it possible that it might give you some sort of performance benefit by being activated at a key RPM that may be different than when it is now?

IIRC, it's closed in the lower RPM range. I'd consider keeping it for the off-boost moments?

TomsSVX

10-19-2010, 08:24 PM

If she goes with the hydra she can manage the IRIS control solenoid via an aux output. She can make it as simple as RPM control or she can add in other variables like boost pressure, engine temp, throttle percentage, etc... to alter the control of the solenoid. Only thing it cannot do is modulate a percentage of how much the valve is opened or closed because it is a simple on/off solenoid that powers the vacuum diaphragm

Tom

Nevin

10-20-2010, 10:13 PM

Couldn't you just dyno with it closed and then again with it opened, then just compare the graphs and make it open at the crossover point? I would assume that one graph would have more hp./less tq. and the other dyno would be slightly opposite?

Even if you didn't have a hydra, you could still easily do this with an MSD window switch.

TomsSVX

10-21-2010, 05:05 AM

oab_au

10-21-2010, 04:28 PM

Im not 100% about this but from what I understand is that the valve is not just about open/closed. It has an inertial effect of velocity when it opens/closes so just leaving it open or closed might not yield the actual effect

Tom

Yes that is pretty well right. It works on the air speed and inertia, that is developed in the inlet tract, between 2000 and 4000. Thats why we have two humps in the torque curve, the inertia produces the first one and the resonate system provides the second one. It will only work at these rpms as the speed of the air inertia is too slow to work above this engine speed.

Having forced induction makes no difference to the way it works, it is just working with a higher air pressure. If you are using a different ECU, you make it close at 2000 rpm and open at 4000 rpm. It needs to be open below 2000 to prevent too much pulsing in the tract that would upset the idle, and low speed running.

Harvey.

Nevin

10-21-2010, 07:32 PM

Well, shivver me timbers. You DO learn something new everyday!

SomethingElse

10-23-2010, 01:41 AM

Johnybeas

10-27-2010, 05:54 AM

What all machine work did you have done? can you break down the 870??

Johnybeas

01-14-2011, 10:07 AM

bump for updates! quit traveling and going to school n get the car done! gosh! :P

httrdd

03-08-2011, 04:53 PM

Bump again. Solid build!

cozykat

03-14-2011, 09:51 AM

Thanks!

Yeah. I keep getting distracted by other things. I just need to do valve covers and oil pan then add all the sensors, intake, etc to be done. quite shameful on my part. :o

thumper_svx

03-14-2011, 01:22 PM

Thanks!

Yeah. I keep getting distracted by other things. I just need to do valve covers and oil pan then add all the sensors, intake, etc to be done. quite shameful on my part. :o

Yeah, how dare you think that you might be entitled to a life when there's an SVX left wanting. I'm ashamed of you, Marisa... :rolleyes:

torxxx

03-30-2011, 01:23 PM

any updates?

Looks like an amazing build, nice to see a female that doesnt mind getting greasy too

Subie-Addict

04-28-2011, 02:55 AM

Very interested to see the final cost/parts list so I can steal part numbers and boost my spare engine :D and to see if there's any suggestions on further or different upgrades for a build like this. Keep up the good work ;)

BackWoodsBob

10-11-2012, 11:07 AM

bumpdates!

cozykat

10-23-2012, 09:12 AM

Yeah, I'm a bit slow. :) Actually between working (plus overtime) and house fixing.. time has been the one thing I need more of. Was able to clear out garage enough that the SVX can get back in and the engine has a place where I can install all the accessories (intake manifold, sensors, etc) to get this engine done and back in the SVX. :)

Plus the new side project to fix the broken windshield.. getting someone that can swap windshields without breaking them has me a bit timid about getting it done.

*sigh* I'm just full of excuses... :p

BackWoodsBob

10-23-2012, 12:57 PM

you know what they say, excuses are like ass-holes, everyone has one and they all stink!

cozykat

02-18-2014, 10:05 AM

Well, I've been quiet but my new years resolution was to get this baby done. So I have been working on one aspect or another of my project for the last few weeks.

I started setting up to install accessories and then decided that I since I've dragged it out this long, I might as well clean this engine up along with the hard lines. (If anyone is curious, for this process I used KBS Coatings product line: AquaClean (Degreaser/Paint prep), Rust Blaster (& etcher), Rust Seal Primer, BlackTop Chassis paint, and MotorCoater)

engine before:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00040.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00040.jpg.html)

engine after:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00070.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00070.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00067.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00067.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00071.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00071.jpg.html)

Last friday a bunch of bolts I was waiting on arrived so I'm FINALLY moving forward with assembly:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00225.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00225.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00226.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00226.jpg.html)

misc parts:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/th_CAM00235.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/CAM00235.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/th_IMG_0511.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/IMG_0511.jpg.html) (get this iris o-ring from OT)

This will either be a good looking engine or the prettiest coffee table ever.. :lol: I'm ok with that.

Also, I just acquired STeeL25T's Hydra EMS so I need to tinker with it to figure out how it works.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/th_20140819_201630.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/20140819_201630.jpg.html)

SVXRide

02-18-2014, 11:45 AM

Marisa,

Outstanding documentation! Will you be fabricating brackets to hold the turbos? Any porting to the heads and intake/stacks prior to painting?

Cheers,
Bill

STeeL25T

02-18-2014, 06:24 PM

Cleanest engine I've ever seen O_O

cozykat

02-19-2014, 09:20 AM

Marisa,

Outstanding documentation! Will you be fabricating brackets to hold the turbos? Any porting to the heads and intake/stacks prior to painting?

Cheers,
Bill
Thanks Bill!
I'm sending my intake manifold to GrimmSpeed to get it PnP (Thanks to Matt's autocross GS sponsorship winnings, it's not costing much out of pocket). :D The only down side is that they have a 5 week lead time - and was hoping to have this done by Reading. The intake manifold is all sorts of squirrelly inside but the intake stacks look okay to me so I'll leave them alone. I plan on getting the exhaust manifolds PnP sometime later. I'm currently spending money on new hoses and bolts - which seem like a small cost but altogether added up to over $500 even with discounts. I said "I'll order any hose that looks like a L or S from Subaru" which apparently applies to every hose under the intake! :lol:
I've also been spending time searching through storage bins because I've hidden away new parts over the years which I can use now. :o:p

Cleanest engine I've ever seen O_O
Thanks Jonathan! It took me a long time to clean all the sections and misc parts.
My garage floor is littered with cleaners, paint, and parts.. It looks like several SVXs blew up in there..

Scoobyru

02-19-2014, 06:34 PM

Well, I've been quiet but my new years resolution was to get this baby done. So I have been working on one aspect or another of my project for the last few weeks.

I started setting up to install accessories and then decided that I since I've dragged it out this long, I might as well clean this engine up along with the hard lines. (If anyone is curious, for this process I used KBS Coatings product line: AquaClean (Degreaser/Paint prep), Rust Blaster (& etcher), Rust Seal Primer, BlackTop Chassis paint, and MotorCoater)

engine before:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00040.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00040.jpg.html)

engine after:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00070.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00070.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00067.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00067.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00071.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00071.jpg.html)

Last friday a bunch of bolts I was waiting on arrived so I'm FINALLY moving forward with assembly:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00225.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00225.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00226.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00226.jpg.html)

misc parts:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00045.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00045.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00046.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00046.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build/th_CAM00083.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build/CAM00083.jpg.html)

This will either be a good looking engine or the prettiest coffee table ever.. :lol: I'm ok with that.

Also, I just acquired STeeL25T's Hydra EMS so I need to tinker with it to figure out how it works.

Curious to see what this ends up putting down for power. very interested...

cozykat

03-17-2014, 09:06 AM

Turtle update:
Just waiting for my collector & intake manifolds to return and preparing the next parts to install (seems I have about 10 small parts I still need to order). I shifted my attention on the Foz this past weekend but I plan on installing the Hydra ems in the SVX tonight - keeping fingers crossed nothing makes a fizzle sound. :p Also think I found a tuner for it once everything comes together.

Then my next SVX tasks will be replacing bulbs (my dash lights decided to go out), swapping trunks and fitting/installing the JDM wing, replica bumper, and side skirts. Once the engine is done and verified running, I'll be pulling it back out momentarily to get the engine bay re-sprayed and the whole car repainted. The last clear coat was applied poorly and after they "fixed it" with a polishing :tard: -> it's all but flown away with the wind as the polishing revealed all the pinholes in the clear. In anticipation of the paint job, I've already purchased most of the door/window weatherstripping and seals - just need the rear windows/windshield.

p.s. If anyone is going to the autocross event in Blytheville, Arkansas this weekend - see you there! Matt will be driving his BRZ. :)

p.p.s. I can't believe it's late-March already.. WTH!

SVXRide

03-17-2014, 11:12 AM

Marisa,

A strong suggestion is to buy at least one (perhaps 2;)) AEM widebands and get them installed now all the way up to the point of screwing in their sensors (which means you'll need to figure out where to weld in the bungs for the sensors). This is the only way you'll get a really accurate tune - even more important when you install the turbos! :cool:

Great to see everything coming together!! :D:D

Bill

Tireiron

03-17-2014, 11:30 AM

Instead of AEM widebands, I would recommend running the wideband O2 for the Hydra. The integrated wideband will make tuning that much easier.

SVXRide

03-17-2014, 02:26 PM

Instead of AEM widebands, I would recommend running the wideband O2 for the Hydra. The integrated wideband will make tuning that much easier.

Tireiron,

I agree, with the caveat that the Hydra widebands are considerably more expensive than AEM units....

Cheers,
Bill

cozykat

03-17-2014, 06:46 PM

Thanks guys! :)

The Hydra, from STeeL25T, came with the wideband kit so it maybe all I need. :)

I'm currently trying to remember if there is anything special to removing the suede piece under the steering wheel. :lol:

Gamesy

03-17-2014, 10:18 PM

There's a screw on the backside you'll need to go from underneath

LetItSnow

03-18-2014, 06:15 AM

Make sure that the MAP hose doesn't get crimped or bent backward on itself when you mount the Hydra! With the limited space under there, it can be challenging to avoid.

cozykat

03-18-2014, 09:36 PM

There's a screw on the backside you'll need to go from underneath
Thanks. It was the screw behind the side view mirror control/parking button that caught me - I knew there was a hidden screw but it was the "where" I couldn't recall. I finally had to admit that my memory isn't so great and went inside to read the manual before I broke anything. :)
Make sure that the MAP hose doesn't get crimped or bent backward on itself when you mount the Hydra! With the limited space under there, it can be challenging to avoid.
Yup, I'll be sure to watch out for that. :) I need to buy replacement hose but was thinking about the cramped space while looking behind the dash. Currently, I am just reading through the Hydra documentation and ensuring proper communication between PC to Hydra and Hydra to SVX. (so far so good)

YourConfused

08-23-2014, 11:38 PM

I'm currently trying to remember if there is anything special to removing the suede piece under the steering wheel. :lol:

Your memory is bad. You should replace it asap.

Tapani

12-27-2014, 11:20 PM

Marisa, any progress on your build?

We got 8" more snow. How I do miss San Antonio :).

Tapani

cozykat

01-06-2015, 04:28 PM

Marisa, any progress on your build?

We got 8" more snow. How I do miss San Antonio :).

Tapani
My update feels like no update.

No snow here.. just been cold, windy, and rainy. Of course, as soon as my vacation is over, it is an awesome 64°... so I can admire the day while stuck in a lab. No worries, it will be cold and rainy again by Friday and through the weekend. :/

We've just been trying to get the Hydra to start with the stock engine. I had Hydra upgrade the Nemesis to 2.7 version (for included support and easier programming interface) and add a pin to control the iris valve. With the upgrade, they put a new base map on the unit so I was hoping it would be plug and play.

It's been an interesting issue. I can connect the stock ECU and stock engine starts/idles/drives. Disconnect the stock ECU and then connect the Hydra Nemesis and the engine tries to start but just can't.

Matt has been talking/getting guidance from Phil at Element Tuning. Phil has been a great support and wealth of knowledge. (side note: a 2.6 map will not import & update into version 2.7, the information has to be manually copied over)
This no-start issue has simply left everyone scratching their head as to why it's not just working. While the nemesis fires the spark plugs differently (i.e. does batch firing), I'm not sure what else could be so different that the car won't start. We did get the car to start with version 2.6 by adjusting Kirill's map and 2.6 also does batch firing. So ... :confused: The best advice we can get is that we need to go through the normal troubleshooting of seeing what's not getting triggered/applied properly (spark, fuel, or air). So I've just been waiting for a less rainy day to systematically troubleshoot the issue (because the SVX is outside and i don't like to be cold).

Once I get this issue resolved, I'll point out my installation flaws and be sure to share my base map to help others (it will just be for a stock vehicle so it shouldn't upset anyone, hopefully :p).

Svx95

01-06-2015, 09:45 PM

My update feels like no update.

No snow here.. just been cold, windy, and rainy. Of course, as soon as my vacation is over, it is an awesome 64°... so I can admire the day while stuck in a lab. No worries, it will be cold and rainy again by Friday and through the weekend. :/

We've just been trying to get the Hydra to start with the stock engine. I had Hydra upgrade the Nemesis to 2.7 version (for included support and easier programming interface) and add a pin to control the iris valve. With the upgrade, they put a new base map on the unit so I was hoping it would be plug and play.

It's been an interesting issue. I can connect the stock ECU and stock engine starts/idles/drives. Disconnect the stock ECU and then connect the Hydra Nemesis and the engine tries to start but just can't.

Matt has been talking/getting guidance from Phil at Element Tuning. Phil has been a great support and wealth of knowledge. (side note: a 2.6 map will not import & update into version 2.7, the information has to be manually copied over)
This no-start issue has simply left everyone scratching their head as to why it's not just working. While the nemesis fires the spark plugs differently (i.e. does batch firing), I'm not sure what else could be so different that the car won't start. We did get the car to start with version 2.6 by adjusting Kirill's map and 2.6 also does batch firing. So ... :confused: The best advice we can get is that we need to go through the normal troubleshooting of seeing what's not getting triggered/applied properly (spark, fuel, or air). So I've just been waiting for a less rainy day to systematically troubleshoot the issue (because the SVX is outside and i don't like to be cold).

Once I get this issue resolved, I'll point out my installation flaws and be sure to share my base map to help others (it will just be for a stock vehicle so it shouldn't upset anyone, hopefully :p).

Marisa,
I know too well how that goes. The days of vacation are always filled with nasty weather and upon return to work the sun shines...WTF!:mad:

Even if it feels like no progress has been made, you really have made a lot.

The situation with HYDRA 2.6 vs 2.7 tune is very interesting but not unheard of.

Just a couple days ago I was talking with a buddy that uses/used COBB AP to tune a customers 2014 Nissan GTR and after the customer traded in the '14 for the '15 model the COBB AP (whole new system as they can't be unmarried, well they can but not what happened here) was no longer able to communicate with the car. They went back and forth with COBB for about 15 days and like you said "everyone is scratching their head" and it seems to be that it's NOT going to work due to the ECU for the '15 GTR being unable to communicate with the COBB AP and vice versa. I believe they were going to switch to ECUtek as they are one of/ if not the only system that supports the '15 GTR at the moment!

Back to the the SVX acting like its going to start, maybe its just a temperature factor. Have you or Phil mentioned altering the temperature parameters (especially if its really cold out) to see if that will help or actually make it start. I remember seeing a video on youtube (Hydra EMS 20 degree cold start Element Tuning (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6mz5P0qjpk)) way back maybe 2 years ago of him messing with some temperature setting on the Hydra 2.6 I believe. ( Actually I checked and it was the 2.7!)

Hopefully you can get this sorted out as the Hydra 2.7 is what I'm planning on using in the near distant future. My buddy used to tune Hydra back when it was 2.1..... and hasn't touched it since so he was pretty surprised they were up to Version 2.7.

Anyway, good luck! Hopefully this gets figured out sooner than later as you have me sitting on the edge of the chair and I dont want to fall:p

Svx95

01-06-2015, 09:53 PM

Here is part 2 to the cold tune start. Hope this helps even just a little! Hydra EMS 20 Degree Cold Start Part 2 Element Tuning (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJ_kOYmAhOk)

cozykat

01-06-2015, 11:41 PM

Thanks Sam! It's something to keep in the back of my mind. I don't think cold starting is my issue (well, wasn't the issue during previous start-up attempts as it's just now getting into the 20s). Texas usually enjoys 40-70 degree winters. I know there was one temperature discrepancy - the air temperature is just not reading (but it didn't read in version 2.6 either and Phil said it shouldn't make a difference).

So for my next weather-permitted, availability I plan to check the wiring and look at which, if any, of the cylinders are attempting to fire with the Hydra and try to think what could be so different between the engine management systems. I think this will all require a bit more investigative work than I was hoping at this stage of the install... but I'm sure there will be some good lessons learned. :)

Concerning upgrading from 2.6 to 2.7: I feel should also correct my statement/clarify to say that you actually can import a 2.6 map to 2.7 but not all the tables are one-to-one. So you have to effectively open both applications (on different operating systems as they didn't like being install on the same laptop - however 1 or 2 virtual machines would help with this) and compare/copy over what's different. Not terrible, just something to note.

I'm just hoping there is a terrible oversight on my part and that I'll walk out, say "oh my! duh!" and success! Then I can refocus on installing the built engine and fight with that. :lol:

SVXRide

01-07-2015, 04:14 PM

Marisa

Has Phil been able to tell you EXACTLY what changed between 2.6 and 2.7? My guess is that they moved some parameters around and now the Hydra's brain is scrambled when it tries to run the EG33.

Bill

cozykat

01-09-2015, 01:20 PM

Hi Bill,

Maybe? Aside from look-and-feel, I don't know exactly what all has changed between software versions but we haven't really pushed for a breakdown of the software/firmware enhancements yet. Just focusing on start-up, Phil has told us the batch firing is the same between versions (and we could start the car with 2.6) so we trying to rule out potential hardware issues.

On the progress side: the Nemesis adapter cabling is pinned out to correctly and the configured firing order is correct.. so I think with a bit more investigation into the rest of the start up process, we will find what isn't occurring.

:)

cozykat

01-09-2015, 06:54 PM

I forgot to post updated pictures:

grimmspeed's port and polish:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/th_IMG_0410.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/IMG_0410.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/th_IMG_0452.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/IMG_0452.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/th_IMG_0425.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/IMG_0425.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/th_IMG_0437.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/IMG_0437.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/th_IMG_0454.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/IMG_0454.jpg.html)

and how the engine sits today (well, since September), waiting... :)
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/th_20140924_013255.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/20140924_013255.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/th_20140924_013232.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/20140924_013232.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/th_20140924_013308.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/20140924_013308.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/th_20140924_013102.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/build%20-%20longblock/20140924_013102.jpg.html)

Svx95

01-09-2015, 09:33 PM

1040

01-15-2015, 12:12 PM

The best engine that I ever seen.
I wish you soon cranking.
Best regards

Tapani

01-17-2015, 09:34 PM

Yes, absolutely beautiful !

What's the performance target Marisa?

What's your drive train?

Keep up the stunning level of detail :)

Kind regards,

/Tapani

cozykat

01-19-2015, 10:42 PM

Wow, very nice! Super clean:D I hope some day my engine will be that clean.

Looking at the pictures reminded me that I've been looking for the o-ring or gasket that goes in the iris butterfly system? Do you have a part # by any chance? I looked over my parts catalogue but couldn't find it:mad:
Ask Tom aka SVXFiles - I got mine from him. :)
The best engine that I ever seen.
I wish you soon cranking.
Best regards

Thanks!

Yes, absolutely beautiful !
What's the performance target Marisa?
What's your drive train?
Keep up the stunning level of detail :)
Kind regards,
/Tapani
Thanks! Ultimately, I'd like to make 300 whp (I think that's a reasonable goal with forced induction). However, I'll be driving it na until I can make up my mind on which turbo. Also, the stock drive train is still in place but I have a 6 speed standing by.

Quick update: Got the engine to turn over and idle with the Hydra today! Last night, we went and tested each coil pack and discovered that the hydra was only firing cylinder 2. Plugged in stock ECU, verified each coil pack operated as expected. Then for good measure we installed new spark plugs and changed the oil. Today, we got feedback from Phil to update some ignition settings and I came home to the SVX idling! Next steps are to adjust the tables to get it drivable. :)

So for the curious:
Settings > Base Ignition Settings - both waste spark and direct fire need to be checked (we tried unchecking one or the other, and the result was no start.)
Settings > Ignition triggers - Timing reference angle should be 65 degrees (this was already set)

Tireiron

01-19-2015, 11:11 PM

So for the curious:
Settings > Base Ignition Settings - both waste spark and direct fire need to be checked (we tried unchecking one or the other, and the result was no start.)
Settings > Ignition triggers - Timing reference angle should be 65 degrees (this was already set)

Very interesting seeing as mine only requires Direct Fire and runs great. The SVX is not a waste spark system so it really shouldn't need to run as one. I wonder what your other settings are under Ignition triggers...

I run
Sequencer = 3
Timing Reference Angle = 68 (need to get a better timing light so i can get this exact around 65 is close)
Trigger Edge = Falling
Sync Edge = Falling
Trigger Type = Generic 12 tooth
Sync Type = Generic 12/24 tooth
Cylinders = 6

Svx95

01-20-2015, 09:56 AM

Ask Tom aka SVXFiles - I got mine from him. :)

Quick update: Got the engine to turn over and idle with the Hydra today! Last night, we went and tested each coil pack and discovered that the hydra was only firing cylinder 2. Plugged in stock ECU, verified each coil pack operated as expected. Then for good measure we installed new spark plugs and changed the oil. Today, we got feedback from Phil to update some ignition settings and I came home to the SVX idling! Next steps are to adjust the tables to get it drivable. :)

So for the curious:
Settings > Base Ignition Settings - both waste spark and direct fire need to be checked (we tried unchecking one or the other, and the result was no start.)
Settings > Ignition triggers - Timing reference angle should be 65 degrees (this was already set)

Ok will do, thanks!

That is great Marisa, I'm sure there was a lot of relief once you heard it run! BTW thanks for posting the info for the curious:D
COPY PASTE ;)

SVXRide

01-20-2015, 04:19 PM

Marisa

Could yourself fortunate! Grimmspeed has gotten out of the porting business:mad:
No reason given on their website.

Bill

cozykat

01-21-2015, 01:03 AM

Marisa

Could yourself fortunate! Grimmspeed has gotten out of the porting business:mad:
No reason given on their website.

Bill

Yes, I heard. :(
We thought that GS was initially just putting the service on hold as they focused on R&D and producing intercoolers but given their posts in Nasioc (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=42840648&postcount=206), it sounds like they may be done permanently. Shame, they did a beautiful job on the plenum and intake manifolds.

EdWindows

01-21-2015, 08:36 AM

Ultimately, I'd like to make 300 whp (I think that's a reasonable goal with forced induction). However, I'll be driving it na until I can make up my mind on which turbo.

I plan on doing the same with stock internals (unless my head gasket needs doing, then while I'm in there.... :D), stage 2 chip, and a single turbo.
Where are you placing each turbo?

cozykat

03-17-2015, 12:17 AM

Very interesting seeing as mine only requires Direct Fire and runs great. The SVX is not a waste spark system so it really shouldn't need to run as one. I wonder what your other settings are under Ignition triggers...

I run
Sequencer = 3
Timing Reference Angle = 68 (need to get a better timing light so i can get this exact around 65 is close)
Trigger Edge = Falling
Sync Edge = Falling
Trigger Type = Generic 12 tooth
Sync Type = Generic 12/24 tooth
Cylinders = 6
I meant to comment on this sooner. :)

So, "funny" story... :o

After some stressful hours, we finally learned two things about the 2.7 base map: 1.) the sequencer value [my default] was 16 and 2.) timing reference angle [my default] was 90. Both, as I understand, are wrong.

We caught the timing ref angle a few weeks back and changed it to 65 but missed the sequencer value. :( Per Hydra's manual: "Sequencer indicates which tooth on the cam signal the trigger will key on. This setting is defined as part of a trigger setup for a specific motor and should not be modified unless you are directed to by your Hydra EMS dealer" - so I felt pretty special. :tard:

Also having to check waste spark to start the vehicle made no sense to us either (and I really don't like when things don't make sense).. so after updating the sequencer setting, we unchecked the waste spark - and finally the car doesn't die. :p

So now my settings are similar to yours:
Sequencer = 3
Timing Reference Angle = 65 (May be worth noting that Kirill's map has this set to 68 like yours)
Trigger Edge = Falling
Sync Edge = Falling
Trigger Type = Generic 12 tooth (in version 2.6 this setting was 24 - but I noted there are Subaru H6 & Subaru EZ30 options :confused:)
Sync Type = Generic 12/24 tooth (in version 2.6 this setting was 24)
Cylinders = 6

AND Waste Spark = UNCHECKED :lol:

I plan on doing the same with stock internals (unless my head gasket needs doing, then while I'm in there.... :D), stage 2 chip, and a single turbo.
Where are you placing each turbo?

We are still arguing on turbo placement. I'm told that I'll need to cut into the firewall if I want two turbos.. so I very well may switch to just a single turbo as I won't do that. Currently, I'm just tackling one challenge at a time. :)

longassname

03-17-2015, 08:07 AM

Congratulations, does that hydra have an auto-tune feature to develop its own fuel and timing maps?

Tireiron

03-17-2015, 02:29 PM

As far as location for two turbos. Delete the useless ABS, and move the battery to the trunk. This now gives you room forward and out for two turbos. Flip the exhaust manifolds to face forward and run them out and up through the flat body panels, then run two downpipes back past the valve covers and down out the engine bay.

cozykat

03-18-2015, 10:40 PM

Congratulations, does that hydra have an auto-tune feature to develop its own fuel and timing maps?
Thanks! Our understanding is that the auto-tune feature is not what it sounds like. You build a base map how you want it to look and then you enable the "auto-tune" feature to perform long-term fuel trims.
As far as location for two turbos. Delete the useless ABS, and move the battery to the trunk. This now gives you room forward and out for two turbos. Flip the exhaust manifolds to face forward and run them out and up through the flat body panels, then run two downpipes back past the valve covers and down out the engine bay.
I've thought about this but I don't want to loose my ABS. :)

Spent yesterday road tuning the SVX. Matt said the Hydra 2.7 is easier to tune/make adjustments with than he anticipated. So today I asked my co-worker for my engine hoist back as it looks like that stock engine is coming out sooner than I thought. :D

longassname

03-19-2015, 06:54 AM

ooooh, so you've set the hydra up with the stock engine to make sure you have it all dialed in before installing your newly built engine....

smart

cozykat

04-02-2015, 11:02 AM

ooooh, so you've set the hydra up with the stock engine to make sure you have it all dialed in before installing your newly built engine....

smart

:lol: Well, I try not to be a complete idiot.

Old engine is coming out this weekend - hopefully without much incident.

Side note: I also pulled out the front/rear seats, steering wheel, and suede pieces to get re-upholstered... Should get it back in two weeks - I'm hoping it all goes well.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/th_20150328_130858.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/20150328_130858.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/th_20150328_104125.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/20150328_104125.jpg.html)

INVADR

04-08-2015, 11:05 AM

I like your racy new driver's seat. Looks lightweight and sporty. :D

michael

04-08-2015, 05:00 PM

I wonder where they get the names for these swatches :confused:

YourConfused

04-20-2015, 07:38 AM

Beaver is awesome!, kinda like something else you said a while back that is awesome also. lol Get your mind out of the gutter girl. :lol:

p.s. give me my motor back!!!! how many years has it been now?

FTHNIC

dbarnblatt

04-20-2015, 10:10 AM

:lol: Well, I try not to be a complete idiot.

Old engine is coming out this weekend - hopefully without much incident.

Side note: I also pulled out the front/rear seats, steering wheel, and suede pieces to get re-upholstered... Should get it back in two weeks - I'm hoping it all goes well.

So impressed with the whole project. Very refreshing to see it done right.

Are you going to loose the auto belts? Seems like a good opportunity to install a set of standard belts from a 1995 or later.

Svx95

05-11-2015, 01:03 PM

Marisa,

It has been a little over a month since your last post in this thread. Hopefully you have your interior back, and looking better than new! How is the build going?

-Sam

cozykat

05-11-2015, 10:25 PM

Beaver is awesome!, kinda like something else you said a while back that is awesome also. lol Get your mind out of the gutter girl.
I think you're confused. :p

So impressed with the whole project. Very refreshing to see it done right.

Are you going to loose the auto belts? Seems like a good opportunity to install a set of standard belts from a 1995 or later.
Thanks! For now I am keeping the automatic seat belts but I did acquire a new set of manual seat belts as backup.

Marisa,

It has been a little over a month since your last post in this thread. Hopefully you have your interior back, and looking better than new! How is the build going?

-Sam
Actually, yes! I went with a local custom upholstery guy that does it as a hobby. He did above what I was expecting (because let's face it, I expect a lot) thus I'm literally giddy every time I think about the result. The some photos of the result are below but more photos are in the same folder (and original interior photos can be seen following this link (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/library/SVX/interior?sort=3&page=5)):
Seats:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/Custom/th_IMG_3035.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/Custom/IMG_3035.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/Custom/th_IMG_3017.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/Custom/IMG_3017.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/Custom/th_IMG_3034.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/Custom/IMG_3034.jpg.html)
Suede:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/Custom/th_IMG_3090.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/Custom/IMG_3090.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/Custom/th_IMG_3068.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/Custom/IMG_3068.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/Custom/th_IMG_3054.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/Custom/IMG_3054.jpg.html)
Suede Comparisons:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/Custom/th_IMG_3072.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/Custom/IMG_3072.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/Custom/th_IMG_3042.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/Custom/IMG_3042.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/Custom/th_IMG_3092.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/Custom/IMG_3092.jpg.html)

Concerning the engine progress: The engine bay is pretty much gutted so I can have it resprayed. I have just been trying to decide what to do about my brake lines. If I leave them in, they stick out pretty far and I fear it would impact the quality of the paint work. In production, I'm sure the brake lines were installed with absolutely nothing inside the vehicle, so their removal is a bit of a hassle. I'm trying to develop a plan on how I'll remove and cut the lines (for maintainability).

EdWindows

05-12-2015, 09:57 AM

That looks great! How much did the seats and suede cost seperately (including materials)? I've thought about getting all the Alcantara paneling redone and re-upholsting the seats myself with a locally-made kit.
Did they also replace the seat foam?

cozykat

05-14-2015, 12:44 PM

That looks great! How much did the seats and suede cost separately (including materials)? I've thought about getting all the Alcantara paneling redone and re-upholsting the seats myself with a locally-made kit.
Did they also replace the seat foam?

Hey! Thanks :)
Below was my cost break down:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/Custom/th_20150321_144553.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/Custom/20150321_144553.jpg.html)

He replaced the foam that is part of the seat cover and added a little extra to the side bolsters:
old cover here:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/th_IMG_3093.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/IMG_3093.jpg.html)
new foam:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/interior/Custom/th_download_20150413_185248.jpeg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/interior/Custom/download_20150413_185248.jpeg.html)

Sean486

05-14-2015, 05:38 PM

It looks amazing. What a difference, and I'm sure it looks even better in person.:)

halistan

06-08-2015, 06:13 AM

Billsy

10-19-2015, 05:02 AM

12 pages in and im left wondering... any updates to this build?

cozykat

03-23-2016, 11:29 PM

Looks absolutely stunning. You have one of the best interiors on the club now, i'm certain. My only concern is the steering wheel. It looks like he put the new material over the old leather instead of removing it first. Is that how you wanted it done?
Thank you for the compliments. You are right about the steering wheel. I wanted it striped down completely but he did it for free, soo... its fine for now. :)
12 pages in and im left wondering... any updates to this build?
Yes, I'm just terrible at it. I've been posting to my instagram account and facebook but hadn't uploaded to photobucket and thus here.

Soo here are my general updates (as the engine is ready):
- Bought a DeltaSpeed 21st Anniversary bumper:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/DeltaSpeed/th_IMG_3676.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/DeltaSpeed/IMG_3676.jpg.html)
- Refinished the engine bay and had it cleared in DiamondFinish Clear for durability. This meant removing everything from the engine bay. I had some damage from battery corrosion that I wanted repaired and I finally found a paint shop that would take non-insurance work. I'm currently inspecting all the wiring and replacing broken/corroded wires.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/engine%20bay/th_FB_IMG_1458792818329.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/engine%20bay/FB_IMG_1458792818329.jpg.html)http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/engine/engine%20bay/th_FB_IMG_1458792870269.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/engine/engine%20bay/FB_IMG_1458792870269.jpg.html)
- Pulled front suspension, recoated, and replaced bushings. Finally finished the engine mounts as well.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/suspension/th_IMG_20160207_223506.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/suspension/IMG_20160207_223506.jpg.html)http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/suspension/th_IMG_20160207_151719.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/suspension/IMG_20160207_151719.jpg.html)
- Had steering rack rebuilt (had a leak) and replaced a steering rack:
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/suspension/th_IMG_20160207_172754.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/suspension/IMG_20160207_172754.jpg.html)http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/suspension/th_IMG_20160207_223820.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/suspension/IMG_20160207_223820.jpg.html)
- Started preparing for transmission swap. Nate happened to be visiting so with his encouragement and help, he and Matt pulled the 6 speed from my wrecked '05 STI. I've been preparing for the install by ordering some replacement parts and waiting on a spare SVX gas pedal to weld up my manual pedal assembly.
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/transmission%20swap/th_FB_IMG_1455328562039.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/transmission%20swap/FB_IMG_1455328562039.jpg.html) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn84/cozykat/SVX/transmission%20swap/th_IMG_20160212_222050.jpg (http://s302.photobucket.com/user/cozykat/media/SVX/transmission%20swap/IMG_20160212_222050.jpg.html)

Next Steps:
- Complete wiring harness check and repairs. Waiting on some wiring to arrive to complete.
- Weld manual pedal assembly and perform any other prep work needed for 6 speed install (including how I install the clutch master cylinder)
- Install 6 speed (when Nate comes back down), update transmission wiring
- Decide if I really want to keep my ABS as I reinstall brake lines
- Install engine. (OMG finally!)
- Put front-end back together
- Have windshield wiper tank, coolant tank, etc combined similar to what killerb makes for the wrx in order to make more room for piping for turbo