Sorry, another Koni insert question

[oldss72]

Hello,
I have done some research on this, I would like to replace my struts with Koni inserts because I have terrible rattling over bumps and it is very annoying. These inserts don't look too difficult to install, and if I do these I will gladly type up a complete how to. I have a few general questions first however.

1. I was looking at this thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1219607&highlight=koni+inserts
and they mention that they needed to grind the stock strut and could not use the pipe cutter, what is the reason for this?
2. Does the stock spring work well with these struts? I assume I will notice a huge difference, however, who is using stock springs with koni inserts, and what is your opinion.
3. Is there a special procedure for removing the struts from our car, and should I expect terrible strut mounts or are they generally good?
4. Will the koni inserts tell me the distance that I will need to cut the stock strut?
5. does anyone have any bad old struts I could buy so that I could do these and not have any down time. I will post this in the parts wanted as well, however I figured i would ask.
6. Aside from the vise and the proper drill sizes, grinder, and pipe cutter, are there any special tools required for this install.

Thank you for your help,
Joe

[wawazat??]

A number of us here have done multiple sets of Koni inserts into our stock housings. I've done two, an old style (serrated top) and a new style (upset/tic-tac body). I'll add my input and hoepfully others will chime in as well. I'll also move this to the correct forum, Mod Mania, for you:).

Hello,
I have done some research on this, I would like to replace my struts with Koni inserts because I have terrible rattling over bumps and it is very annoying. These inserts don't look too difficult to install, and if I do these I will gladly type up a complete how to. I have a few general questions first however.
First, the rattling may be either brake caliper pins or anti-sway bar endlinks. You can verify it is the brake pins by applying the brakes while travelling over a known rattle-inducing road section. If the rattle is reduced that may be your problem. The endlinks may be slightly loose or simply dead. You can try to tighten them or just replace them.

1. I was looking at this thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1219607&highlight=koni+inserts
and they mention that they needed to grind the stock strut and could not use the pipe cutter, what is the reason for this?
I did not read the entire thread to locate the reference you mention but I have cut the top of my housings off using a reciprocating saw once, a band saw once, and I did use a bench grinder per Koni instructions (grind the rolled lip off at the top of the housing that retains the top seal plate and piston/rod) on a set of housings for future use. From what I recall I depends on the length of housing needed by the particular replacement insert.

2. Does the stock spring work well with these struts? I assume I will notice a huge difference, however, who is using stock springs with koni inserts, and what is your opinion.
I have experience with both stock springs and coilovers with Koni inserts. I didn't notice a "huge" difference going from Showa strut to replacement Koni insert but I did the swap on a low-mileage car so the stock struts may have been in better shape than your car's struts. The stock spring rates, in my opinion, are too low for spirited driving. As they say, your mileage may vary (YMMV):)

3. Is there a special procedure for removing the struts from our car, and should I expect terrible strut mounts or are they generally good?
No special procedure but you will have to strip a buch of the rear interior panels to access the rear, upper strut mounts. Your rear mounts may be rusted out (does your car sag in the rear?) as this is a common complaint. This may or may not be a problem, only you can determine this on your car by removal and inspection.

4. Will the koni inserts tell me the distance that I will need to cut the stock strut?
Yes (I like short answers :lol:)

5. does anyone have any bad old struts I could buy so that I could do these and not have any down time. I will post this in the parts wanted as well, however I figured i would ask.
Maybe. I have a gutted set (I think) at my old house. I'll check in the next week or so and let you know.

6. Aside from the vise and the proper drill sizes, grinder, and pipe cutter, are there any special tools required for this install.
Proper selection of hand tools (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets and wrenches (box and open end), an impact wrech will be very handy for this job!), jack and jackstands should be about it. I used a camber bolt set to increase negative camber which required some additonal tool sizes. If you don't have access to air tools, dis-assembly/reassembly of the strut mount to the struts can be a challenge as the top nut is recessed in the mount and the piston rod of the strut rotates when using hand tools. Again, air-powered impact tools are your friends:D
Remember, if you are comfortable with your front-end alignment being correct to mark the top strut mount bolt which extends through the hub, to maintain your alignment. If you forget this step, you will need a front-end alignment.

Thank you for your help,
Joe

Todd

[LetItSnow]

You'll need a pair of allen wrenches, too... I forget the size. :(

[SVX_MY_BABY]

My mechanic used a pipe cutter for front & rear. That was a year and a half back. Perhaps the spacing problem is only on the Miata strut.

Have a close look at your top mounts after you clean them up. One of mine had a hairline crack. A broken mount will also cause a lot of rattle. I had that problem in the front back when my car was under warranty.

[AyeJaye]

Is there a how-to on which interior panels need to be removed to access rear strut mounts?

[redlightningsvx]

You need to remove the the bottom rear seat, side panels then undo the 2 screws for the package tray and your done. It's fairly easy, there's a total of 6 screws.

[michael]

I may have overlooked it but you need a spring compressor. Unless you like living on the edge:-)

[redlightningsvx]

yea that also and a tourq wrench.

[sicksubie]

You dont need a spring compressor if you are doing the G/C coilovers as well as the konis

[SVXMAN2001]

If he is using his own stock struts he'll have to use a spring compressor to remove the stock springs.

[michael]

If you are careful you can unbolt the strut mount and use the jack to raise the car and decompress the springs. I've done it a few times because without air tools spring compressors are a lot of work.