Code.11.Duty Solenoid.A.

[Richdev65]

Help required. I have a code 11 which ,Dave the `bearded one`,has given me some really good advise on,however I need some more. I had no symptoms except that I was getting the warning flashes on the dash. The resistor attached to the front wing inside the engine bay ( behind the battery) seems fine,i.e.it is plugged in ! What next? I think someone will say the Duty Solenoid inside the Transmission. How do I get to it and is it easy to replace. Any part numbers might also help

Thanks Rich.

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by Richdev65
Help required. I have a code 11 which ,Dave the `bearded one`,has given me some really good advise on,however I need some more. I had no symptoms except that I was getting the warning flashes on the dash. The resistor attached to the front wing inside the engine bay ( behind the battery) seems fine,i.e.it is plugged in ! What next? I think someone will say the Duty Solenoid inside the Transmission. How do I get to it and is it easy to replace. Any part numbers might also help

Thanks Rich.


Rich,
Duty solenoid A is located within the valve body, so, you could replace it without dropping the entire transmission. I would check, however, to make sure that (even though it's plugged in) that the resistor, itself, is not bad.

Here is the location of duty solenoid A, along with the rest.

[Richdev65]

Thanks for the diagram. I will print it off and give it to an expert,as it looks like `double dutch to me !
What is the subaru part number please ?
Rich

[Boone]

Rich, By all means check the contact of the connector and the value of the drop resistor. It should be 12 ohms nominally. I would even clear the code and see if it comes back. Would hate to dig into your tranny for a gremlin with no symptoms. :rolleyes: D.

[svxistentialist]

Hi Rich

How are things? Sorry to hear of the tranny problem. Subaruparts.com seem to sell Duty Solenoid A as part of a set of 4, and the cost is $250, see
http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?model=2&year=1992&style=4WD&body=&scn=1&category=182-A

The logic of selling as a set is unassailable. If one has failed, how soon before the others? So while the valve chest is open, they replace the set.

BTW, if your Sol A is wonky, your line pressure will be wrong. The symptom will be shock or jerky shifts. Are you experiencing this?

Say Hi to Claire for me.

Joe:)

[svxistentialist]

Rich,

Randy is right about checking the resistor, among other things. Good mechanics always check that the cheap fix is OK before firing new parts into a problem.

Check sequence as follows:

Measure signal voltage output from TCU

Check harnesses between TCU and duty solenoid A, and TCU and resistor

Check Duty solenoid A's ground line

Check resistor

Check duty solenoid A

Check contact of TCU connector terminal

Repair TCU terminal poor contact [replace TCU]

Page 179 in the US manual details how to do these checks, I would have to get it scanned if you need it.

Would this be a good time to ask if you are interested in buying the RHD manual from Australia??

Joe:) :)

[Richdev65]

Joe,
Thanks for the info. My local dealership is unwilling to do any transmission work. They say that they are not trained on it and suggested that I take it to a transmission specialist ( exactly the response I got when I had an A/C problem) . I do however have a full and brand new set of solonoids( dont ask !). So I would like to get them fitted. I`m going to take them to a transmission specialist but before I do so I want to have hard copies of the proceedure, to hand to them. Is it that complex ? Surely it is just the housing that is removed when they are replaced ? I`m really loosing my pacience with Subaru dealerships. I think they will only sell cars and do basic services.
Claire is fine,thanks for asking. She is getting fatter now. Due on January 2nd .
Rich.

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by Richdev65
Joe,
Thanks for the info. My local dealership is unwilling to do any transmission work. They say that they are not trained on it and suggested that I take it to a transmission specialist ( exactly the response I got when I had an A/C problem) . I do however have a full and brand new set of solonoids( dont ask !). So I would like to get them fitted. I`m going to take them to a transmission specialist but before I do so I want to have hard copies of the proceedure, to hand to them. Is it that complex ? Surely it is just the housing that is removed when they are replaced ? I`m really loosing my pacience with Subaru dealerships. I think they will only sell cars and do basic services.
Claire is fine,thanks for asking. She is getting fatter now. Due on January 2nd .
Rich.

Rich,
Congrats! I didn't know that you and Claire were "expecting." Hmmmm, and nine months after your visit to the "States." Aren't those "getaways great?!?!? (Just kidding, Rich).

Truly, congratulations on the arrival of your upcoming child. I don't know how it goes in your neck of the woods, but, here, we'd be rooting for the "little guy" to make it before the end of the year so we could claim it as a tax deduction for the entire previous year. :)

[svxistentialist]

Originally posted by Richdev65
Joe,
Thanks for the info. My local dealership is unwilling to do any transmission work. They say that they are not trained on it and suggested that I take it to a transmission specialist ( exactly the response I got when I had an A/C problem) . I do however have a full and brand new set of solonoids( dont ask !). So I would like to get them fitted. I`m going to take them to a transmission specialist but before I do so I want to have hard copies of the proceedure, to hand to them. Is it that complex ? Surely it is just the housing that is removed when they are replaced ? I`m really loosing my pacience with Subaru dealerships. I think they will only sell cars and do basic services.
Claire is fine,thanks for asking. She is getting fatter now. Due on January 2nd .
Rich.

Don't mention it Rich, glad she is doing well. Hope she does not read your non-PC description. Getting larger is probably how the girls might prefer to describe it.

If you have the valve chest, you are laughing. The only caveat I would add, you should go to an auto transmission specialist, not just a transmission specialist.

There is an order of magnitude difference in how clean the workshop[operating room clean] needs to be in order to do successful work on the auto box. A shop specialising in autos will be well aware of this, and make no mistakes.

Also, fitting the valve chest is a simple job, the box does not come out. They just drop the pan, bolt off the chest, bolt up the new one, back on pan, fill up and away you go. You should not need the manual for that with an auto specialist. If they are dubious about procedure, then Phil Skuse would be able to scan the section for you, he did for me with wheel alignment detail.

Let me know if you need more.

Joe

[Andy]

Many congrats, Rich & Claire

Had the same problem with mine when I bought it 4 months ago. Flashing power light and hard changes. The dealer said that they would fix it and gave me a 3 month warranty.

After many visits, they traced the problem to a low voltage on the ECU and ordered another. The car definitely felt different afterwards, like a slipping clutch, but still gave some hard changes. Following advice on the forum, I checked the resistor. (Easy to remove with a 10mm ring spanner, no need to touch the battery.) I found that it was open circuit. drove to the dealer to show them and found the car changing much better. They ordered me a new resistor and said "That will be £65.00 please."

So what about the 3 month warranty? By then I had owned the car 3 months and 1 week, so even though the problem was existing when I bought the car, and they had failed to diagnose the problem, they expect me to pay. Unfortunately there is no other Subaru dealer locally.

So back to your problem Rich, try the resistor first. BTW, found Sparshatts to be very good. (Unload the car before going over their sleeping policeman.)

Finally, why is the resistor so ****ing expensive over here!!!!



Andy

Sober and broke

[Andy]

New resistor arrived today. Wow!! what a difference. silky smooth gear changes and no power light flashing on start.

Should I disconnect the battery to reboot, or is it not necessary?


Andy

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by Andy
New resistor arrived today. Wow!! what a difference. silky smooth gear changes and no power light flashing on start.

Should I disconnect the battery to reboot, or is it not necessary?


Andy

The only reason to reboot would be to clear previous codes. If you don't wanna, you don't havta. :D The computer will begin to adjust to the new signal (as you've probably noticed) immediately. Congrats on an inexpensive fix.

[Andy]

Many thanks to all contributors on this forum, My local dealers are useless plonkers. (At least they are better than the Nissan lot.)

If it wasn't for you guys I would be a real jerk!!

downside is that you have got me paranoid about my gearbox...oops... tranny, bearings etc etc



Andy

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by Andy
Many thanks to all contributors on this forum, My local dealers are useless plonkers. (At least they are better than the Nissan lot.)

If it wasn't for you guys I would be a real jerk!!

downside is that you have got me paranoid about my gearbox...oops... tranny, bearings etc etc



Andy

Don't worry, Andy. You're in good company. We all live in fear of losing our box. I had actually prepared myself, after I bought the car. I had resigned to the fact that the gearbox WOULD fail. I wasn't prepared, however for the news that my car didn't have an SVX gearbox in it at all. Someone had fitted a Legacy box -- one of the reasons it toasted so quickly after my purchase. Not to mention, there were probably high miles on it when it was installed. I won't go into the ENTIRE adventure, but, all is well now.

Don't be too paranoid. Enjoy the car and take the "speed bumps" as they come.

[svxistentialist]

Originally posted by Aredubjay


Don't worry, Andy. You're in good company. We all live in fear of losing our box. I had actually prepared myself, after I bought the car. I had resigned to the fact that the gearbox WOULD fail. I wasn't prepared, however for the news that my car didn't have an SVX gearbox in it at all. Someone had fitted a Legacy box -- one of the reasons it toasted so quickly after my purchase. Not to mention, there were probably high miles on it when it was installed. I won't go into the ENTIRE adventure, but, all is well now.

Don't be too paranoid. Enjoy the car and take the "speed bumps" as they come.

Could not agree more. Am still suffering from rear wheel bearing failure. Was noisy when I got the car in Feb '01. Still noisy. Still driving.

This car will not fall to bits, unless you are a s*** driver, with zero[nought percent] mechanical empathy. Take real problems seriously, as they deserve, and the speed bumps with a pinch of salt.

Joe:)

[Ron Mummert]

Well after bragging for almost two years & 32K of trouble free driving, I do believe I too have contracted the dreaded Solenoid A disease. (Noticed more abrupt 1-2 & 3-4 shifts & 16 rapid power light flashes).
Due to the miracle of THE SEARCH FUNCTION I landed on this thread that seems to detail the solutions to my woes. I suppose I'll first check the resistor, hoping to find squirrel droppings close by. If no signs of debris then I guess it's off to the ATM. A few questions occurred to me though. 1. The effect so far is simply the "crisper" shifts that some of you actually "crush your beads", or worse, pay scads of bucks to Level 10 to professionally achieve. Why not just put black tape over the power light, & tell the guy next door who's been ogling the car that I got a Level 10 rebuild, & now the car's worth twice what I paid for it? 2. Could the recent east coast monsoons after the recent drought and pestilence effect the resistor? I mean I suspect ANYTHING that's "out there" exposed to the elements is eventually doomed to crack & fall off. I mean that's what happened to my..... Well, never mind, but I'd much rather spiff up a connector than drop the whole freakin' undercarriage to get at that solenoid thing.

Your comments & collective wisdom welcome as always - Ron.

[Earthworm]

The first thing you should be doing is checking the resistance of that quirky resistor behind your battery. Should be close to 10-12 ohms.

[Ron Mummert]

Originally posted by Earthworm
The first thing you should be doing is checking the resistance of that quirky resistor behind your battery. Should be close to 10-12 ohms.



Thanks David - But if it IS 10-12 Ohms, then what? If it isn't, then what? Ron.

[Earthworm]

Originally posted by Ron Mummert
Thanks David - But if it IS 10-12 Ohms, then what? If it isn't, then what? Ron. If it is then it's possibly the solenoid itself (not likely).

I had this error code on my SVX and my resistor was shot.

[Ron Mummert]

Originally posted by Earthworm
If it is then it's possibly the solenoid itself (not likely).

I had this error code on my SVX and my resistor was shot.

Uhh...so you're saying the resister SHOULD be at 10-12 ohms, & if it IS then it's something else? ...and if it isn't, replace it?

Muddling through ohm sweet ohm - Ron.

[Earthworm]

Bingo. Actually I believe 7-15 ohms is acceptable.

[svxistentialist]

Hi Ron

I hope the resistor turns out to be your problem, it seems to be the simplest fix.

The troubleshooting section I put in earlier in this thread is from the Workshop Manual. Again, the emphasis is on looking for bad connections, before presuming the solenoid is shot and wasting time and money.

With your luck, I'd be expecting the resistor is the problem.:D :D :D

Joe:)

[svx_commuter]

Hi Ron,

The resistor controls the line pressure. Low rpm and soft throttle is low line pressure to the trans. Hard throttle and the line pressure goes up. You can actually measure the line voltage to Solenoid A if you are so inclined. Stiff wire connectors slid along the wire in the connector of TCU and an anolog volt meter will do the trick. The resistor OHMS is a part of the control but the voltage gives you a better indication. I have done this on my car so if you need help just ask.:)

High end voltage is low pressure and low voltage is high pressure. So I would assume your TCU is stuck on the low voltage end.

[oab_au]

Hi Ron, sorry to hear that s$it has happened.

Try unplugging the resistor, If it makes no difference the A solenoid has failed in the full pressure state.

Harvey.;)

[Andy]

I had exactly the same problem myself.It was traced to the resistor going open circuit. One replacement and the changes are silky smooth


Andy

[Boone]

Hmm... unless the connector has gone bad or the resistor has gone open. :eek:

[Ron Mummert]

Originally posted by Boone
Hmm... unless the connector has gone bad or the resistor has gone open. :eek:


Firstly, thanks to all of you guys on both sides of the Atlantic for jumping in with advise. The resistor - that's what's hiding behind that rectangular piece of clear metal screwed to the inner fender behind the battery? Doesn't look all that hard to get at. So once I do get to it, what am I looking for? Dirt, popcorn, cooties? If there're no visual clues, is this where I tell Homer to do some ohm tests? Because the only meter I've got is the one I step on every day that tells me I'm healthy, because no sickly dude could possibly weigh that much. Secondly, no matter what I find out, I'll probably wait until it's time to a few other things before I replace whatever. Am I going put Mr. Tranny in a nose dive to sure death by driving with a bad resistor or Solenoid A? I thought some of you guys were driving with the resistor disconnected because you liked that '50s Hydramatic whiplash feel. I'm taking the car to the Snowshoe I meet this weekend & will add a few hundred miles to the clock. Should I phone ahead for an ambulance now?

Another thanks - Ron

[LarryIII]

Ron,

Have you been drinking from Box-O-Wine and watching old star treks again?
We have not invented clear metal yet.
As someone told Dustin Hoffman at a patry once, "PLASTICS".

[LarryIII]

According to the shop manual (Sect. 3-2, page 179, para. 4 )
the resistance of the resistor controlling duty solenoid A should be 9-15 ohms.

[Earthworm]

Originally posted by LarryIII
According to the shop manual (Sect. 3-2, page 179, para. 4 )
the resistance of the resistor controlling duty solenoid A should be 9-15 ohms. Sure...cheat! I was just going from memory :D

I tested mine when it was bad and it measured somewhere around 1,000,000 ohms so it was just a little out of spec.

[LarryIII]

I tested mine. It is good at 11-12 ohms. I had to remove the battery to get to it. The hardest part of the procedure is keeping the probes from my $7 Radio Shack VOM from touching each other. They are not thin enough (like me) to do the job easily.

The second hardest part was reprogramming the radio stations this morning.