Finally some progress... [Archive] - The Subaru SVX World Network

SVX10

07-16-2008, 11:54 PM

WOW! It's been waaay too long since I've been here posting. Feels good to be back.

Over the past 1.5 years or so I've been slowly progressing on prepping my SVX for paint. The NM and AZ sun did a number on the original Ebony Pearl.

I chose to sand the vehicle to prep it rather than using a chemical stripper. I did chemical stripper on the sunroof, and ended up getting some small rust-spots. I didn't want the same on the body panels. So, that took FOREVER.

This weekend I finally got it sanded to my liking. After a ton of masking (almost worse work than sanding), I got the primer coat down. Unfortunately I'm away from home for 2 weeks, but when I return I hope to get the primer sanded, low spots filled with glaze, final primer coats, and paint applied. Plan is to do a satin black or titanium color such as...

http://www.tunerzine.com/coverage/230/1.jpg

I'd like to do a gold or bronze wheel like that, also.

Anyway, here's a link to the pics.

http://www.myrideisme.com/Garage/fromSVXtoSTi/699/1097/

lhopp77

07-17-2008, 08:24 AM

A lot of work, I know. I see you have masked the sunroof area. Is the sunroof removed or are you going to do something different with that area?

Lee

TomsSVX

07-17-2008, 09:14 AM

piece of advice... Remove the following and work with them off the car.

-Door handles
-Mirrors
-Rear window garnishes
-Window weather stripping
-Claddings (all 4)
-Bumpers
-trunk lid

This will save you time and keep you from driving yourself crazy... we are doing a full sprary right now too, I feel your pain and excitement.

Tom

SVX10

07-17-2008, 11:35 AM

The sunroof is removed and will be the same color

Regarding removal of stuff...

I took off the mirrors and door handles before spraying the primer. I didn't remove seals because I had bad experience removing them on a parts car I had. Also, concerning the bumpers, cladding, and trunk lid...no thanks!:) Trunk lid I already have setup at a good angle that will allow me to spray all exposed surfaces with ease. If I remove it, I have no fixture to attach it to, so getting the edges/bottom/etc. will be near impossible. Same with the bumpers.

The cladding I really would've like to have removed, but didn't know how, and didn't want to damage the clip mounts in the process. When I removed the rear 1/4 trim things under the windows from my parts car, it took forever to do the 1st one right, and the 2nd one I ended up breaking a few of the clips and clip mounting slots. Could I do that even though it's already primered? I think I could. Maybe you can let me know how to best go about it.

I already drove myself crazy masking the car to accomodate this approach, so I might as well stick with it now :lol: I'm also fortunate to have a black car as a base...that allows lots of flexibility as black sills and black brackets and such will still look just fine even though the exterior is going to be a slightly different color.

SVX10

08-14-2008, 12:26 PM

A bit of an update...

The high build primer has been sanded to reveal low spots such as door dings and hail damage...

http://www.myrideisme.com/Garage/fromSVXtoSTi/699/1097/

Also picked up a set of wheels to cram in there. Gonna look nice with the flat black. Rota G Force 18x9 +30mm. No doubt gonna be a chore to get them to "fit", but that's the fun of having a dedicated daily driver...I have all the time in the world. If I can't get them to fit, they'll probably end up on my STi, and the STi's 18x8 Enkei RC-T4's will end up on the SVX.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d49/dettelbachm/DSC01721.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d49/dettelbachm/DSC01726.jpg

redlightningsvx

08-14-2008, 04:11 PM

Did you guide coat the car before you sanded it? Also sweet rims.

SVX10

08-14-2008, 04:17 PM

yes indeed I did. That's how I found the hail damage and door dings and such. I'll fill them, and to flat again, hit it with 3 or 4 coats of high build primer, guide coat and sand again to make sure low spots are all gone, hit it with 2 coats of sealer primer, 400 sand, color, flat clear. A wee bit nervous about the flat clear...gotta practice before-hand since I won't be able to sand & buff any mistakes :(

redlightningsvx

08-14-2008, 04:34 PM

What kind of paint are you going to use? PPG,DuPont? The flat clears are A LOT easier to spray than normal clears just dont tiger stripe them and use a good gun like a Satajet. I need to start doing my car again. Also if you use flexibilizer on all of you undercoats and clear coat, and use basecoat activator in you basecoat the paint will be more chip resistant and will last much longer.

SVX10

08-14-2008, 05:42 PM

I was gonna use rustoleum since I don't want the car to rust...

:D:D:D:D

Seriously, though, I THINK it's called Diamont. But that's the line...not sure who the MFG is. It's what my local paint shop recommended. I believe my flat clearcoat is a sherwin williams. I've got 2 guns, 1 for primer, 1 for paint. The primer is a 1.8mm Sharpe Finex FX3000, and the paint/clear is a 1.3mm Sharpe Finex FX3000. Also just ordered some 3/8" ID fittings so my pressure drop from the tank to the gun inlet isn't so bad. Finally, I have a simple inline filter at the gun.

I did some practice spraying with the flat clear, and I did notice that orange peel doesn't show up nearly as clearly, but I'd still like to spray as smooth a clear as possible. I played with the reducer a bit and my last spray was just a little too thin and ran if I didn't have the perfect distance and arm speed. I gotta fine tune it more before I spray the car. Last thing I want is a run after all of this work!!

SVX10

09-29-2008, 10:21 PM

Some more progres...it's fully primered now! :)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/matwithonetwright/SVX/photo4.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/matwithonetwright/SVX/photo.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/matwithonetwright/SVX/photo2.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/matwithonetwright/SVX/photo3.jpg

As you can see in the pics, I did get some tiger striping. How do I avoid that? I have gotten much better since the 1st coat of primer, but still there. What causes it? Spray pattern? Volume of spray? Gun distance/angle?

TomsSVX

09-30-2008, 05:02 AM

Are those vertical lines in the paint?!? I am sure someone can post a more accurate description but broaden the spray of the gun and make sure your transitions overlap equally.

Tom

redlightningsvx

09-30-2008, 05:06 AM

What Tom says is right. Turn the fan all the way out for a job this size, do a 50% overlap, and maybe open the fluid nozzel a little and turn down the air pressure a tad bit. Also another good thing to look at is the product data sheet that comes with the materials. Follow that and you should be good.

SVX10

09-30-2008, 06:51 PM

Thanks for the painting tips. I did some research online and found the same answer.

I have another questions.
1) Do I need to sand down the "stripes" that are there? Will they show through the paint coat?

redlightningsvx

09-30-2008, 07:30 PM

They shouldn't show because your sanding it down, right? Or is that the basecoat? The "stripes" are just atomized particles that dried before it hit the surface. Also if that is or when you do the basecoat I use a sanding sponge by a company called carborundum I think that's how you spell it but, anyways they make several grits of sponges for sanding. I use the 800-1000 grit sponge wet with some wax and grease remover between every coat of basecoat I spray to get rid of dirt that may get stuck in the wet paint.

SVX10

09-30-2008, 10:58 PM

Those stripes are in the 2nd (top) coat of primer sealer. I was wondering if I don't sand them down, will they show through as a ripple or something in the final paint?

I don't want to sand it...maybe I'm using the wrong approach, but when I sanded the 2nd to last primer coat with 400 grit paper, it was rediculously slow. The paper was clogging up in about 30 seconds after covering just a few strokes. It was rediculous. So, if I didn't have to sand, I didn't want to.

Right now I'm at the top coat of primer, non-sanded. From here on out, what would you recommend for a process, and for tools (what kind of paper won't clog, wet or dry sand, etc.)

I'm thinking, from what I've read, I need to:
1) sand perfectly smooth with 600-800 grit :mad:
2) spray with color making sure to get a good fan width and keep my gun perpendicular to the surface. I'll probably do my passes lengthwise. It's a bit difficult to spray that continuously, but there are fewer passes and thus fewer chances to screw up.
3) do a 2nd coat of color according to timing in product info sheet
4) spray the flat clear. This part has me really nervous. I did some practice spraying and it would either run or orange peel. i got better with more and more practice...maybe I just need to practice a bunch before the final spray :(

Thanks again for your help. I'm learning as I go and you guys' advice helps me avoid mistakes and get it right the 1st time around!

Crazy_pilot

09-30-2008, 11:25 PM

Looking good! One day my car will go through this process...plus a lot of sheet metal replacement...

redlightningsvx

10-01-2008, 05:06 AM

I sand my primers like this- guidecoat, 400 wet, guidecoat again, then finish it with 600 wet for that super smooth surface.

triumph1902

10-07-2008, 12:10 AM

I am painting my SVX satin black also...
ill give you some quick tips.

If your sand paper gummed up when you wet sanded that means the primer was not dry...did you mix in enough hardener?

grit 600+ wont leave marks under the base coat.

The stripes on the sealer would be covered by the base coat however, most sealers require that you apply the base coat within 1-2 hours otherwise you have to sand again.

I am guessing you have a gravity feed spray gun hopefully not a totally cheap one. You need an extra pressure regulator with a gauge mounted to the gun so you can dial in the correct pressure. The tip of the gun is also important, I use a 1.7 mil for primers and a 1.5mil for base and clear. You also need water/oil filter separator mounted to the air inlet on the gun. They cost $10 and look like orange plastic balls.

To get the gun to spray correctly get some cardboard. Fill the gun with lacquer thinner. Adjust the fan so that you get a straight line wet spot when you spray the cardboard...not a hourglass and not a round or oval.

Also adjust the air pressure on the dial. The air pressure is read when you press the triger halfway so that youre blowing air but no paint. Every gun is a lil different. With my sata i use 40psi for clear...but for a cheaper gun try around 30psi. As for the paint feed dial, open it less for base and more for clear.

You will need a small plastic filter for the paint cup on the gun and large filters when you pour the paint in the gun...you dont want any particles in the paint at all.

Most important: clean with proper Degreaser after you sand and wash with water. Use damp paper ShopTowel's the blue ones.

Once you finish spraying the sealer use TacCloths to get the dust off after each coat of base dries and right before you clear.

Lastly...clear coat is incredibly hard to lay smooth when doing a whole car...what makes it even harder is the fact that you dont have a down draft spray both..this will cause all the clear coat fog in the air to precipitate down and make it impossible to get a smooth finish. Usually you would wet sand the clear with 1500grit and buff it with compound and a buffer with a foam pad but because this is a flat finish you cant do that.

Flat crear coat finishes are tough even for expert bodyshops...i would not even try it without a booth, and Ive been painting for years.

I will be using SEM HR010 HOT ROD BLACK PAINT on my car because it will be alot easier to get a quality finish and touch up later.

It is a one stage urethane and has uv shield built in...unlike other one stage paints which are enamels and fade this one should last alot longer.

Hope this helps...let me know if you have more questions

SilverSpear

10-07-2008, 01:51 AM

http://www.tunerzine.com/coverage/230/1.jpg

Hmmm I wonder... how will my car look in that color especially that I have a bodykit on :rolleyes:

SVX10

10-07-2008, 12:39 PM

Triumph,
Thanks for the detailed info. A majority of that is stuff that I've become familiar with during this project. Sounds like I should use 600 grit, though. I was under the impression that 400 was enough.

Concerning the sandpaper, it wasn't gumming up, it was just getting clogged with the residue. The residue was a dry powder, though...no issues with hardener.

I used a 1.8tip for primer per the product info sheet. When I've sprayed before I've used a 1.3mm for color and clear. I have a 1.5 though. Which is better and why? Already have the oil/water separator. Don't have a pressure regulator for the gun...I'll pick one up.

One thing I did get that helped a bit with pressure was the high flow fittings. I was able to go longer before the compressor would have to fire back on. A nice little bonus, but not necessary for a good job.

I've been cleaning before spraying with a proper degreaser throughout the project. That is always followed by tack cloth immediately before painting. Adhesion has been great so far.

Thanks for the gun setup info. That should come in really helpful. I'm plannign to get a test piece soon, so I'll try that setup on a test panel.

Also, I'm going to try to locate a downdraft booth not only for the spray fog, but also becuase it'll be cleaner than my garage. Despite a pretty thorough pre-cleaning of my garage, a few particles still settled into the primer. I don't want that on the final spray, so I'm going to try to find a booth to use. I have 2 leads right now (friend's dad's shop, friend of a friend), so hopefully one can let me use it on a weekend.

Still not sure on single stg vs. bc/cc. I realize the 1 stg. is smarter because of application and repair. Actually, 1 stage frequently looks better, too, in flat applications. I had just planned on the base/clear for durability/longevity/quality. While I know I couldn't get a glass smooth flat clear application, I thought I could do an adequate job. The flatness of the finish hid most of the orange peel appearance on the practice panel i did a few months back.

I'd love to hear some more input. Thanks for the help!

triumph1902

10-07-2008, 10:39 PM

As far as gun tips go...the thicker the liquid you spray the larger the tip you need. Base coat is a relatively thin so, usually, you would use a 1.3-1.4mm tip... with Clear coat, which tends to be less viscous, you want 1.6-1.7...primer tends to be even thicker so you can go 1.7-1.9 and then 1.9+ tips are for undercoats and spray glazes. I use a 1.5mm tip on My SATA because its big enough for clear and small enough for base as far a my gun goes. Also because I dont have a heated spray booth and spray in cool temps..I tend to reduce the clear more then usual so it lays flatter...of course this makes it more prone to runs.

You are absolutely correct that a 2 stage base coat /clear coat urethane finish would be the most durable, however it is extremely difficult to get good results with flat clear. I expect the SEM 1 stage urethane to last 3-5 years without fading as a daily driver, and during that time should it need repairs I can easily do them...and even if it fades i can just sand it and spray it again...the 2 stage will last 10 years but will be impossible to touch up and may not come out as well as the one stage...thats why I decided to stay with the one stage in this case.

SVX10

04-07-2009, 04:20 PM

We're almost to the paint stage. The primer has been wet sanded and blocked with 400 grit. The finish is very smooth, but some very fine ripples on areas of the door surfaces, trunk lid, and hood. They'd probably show on a traditional gloss paint job, but the satin finish will certainly hide them well. Here are a few pics...

Overall
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/matwithonetwright/SVX/DSC01571.jpg

Slight ripple
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/matwithonetwright/SVX/DSC01569.jpg

Good reflection
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/matwithonetwright/SVX/DSC01554.jpg

Needs some more work
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/matwithonetwright/SVX/DSC01556.jpg

Now I just need to decide if I'll spray a single stage myself or pay to have a base/clear job done at a shop...decisions decissions. First I gotta get it running right :rolleyes:

redlightningsvx

04-07-2009, 07:58 PM

Did you spray all the panels/cladding/garnish on the car?

SVX10

04-08-2009, 12:06 AM

Yes I did. A conscious decision to avoid breaking clips and their attachment points on the garnish pieces. it will result in some negative results...i realize that...but I really didn't feel like battling with the removal and, most likely, replacement of these pieces.

gwarusee

04-12-2009, 10:21 AM

Not trying to threadjack, my thread has been long lost and we are pretty much on the same track. Here are some semi-final shots of the satin job I've been working on. I ended up having a guy at work paint the lower clading and bumpers gloss with a base/clear. Turned out pretty darn good for being done in a mixer shop! The hood still needs to be fixed and painted, and I will end up paiting from the trim lines up, on the bumper satin to match the ca's lines.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v310/gwarusee/IMG_0015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v310/gwarusee/IMG_0018.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v310/gwarusee/IMG_0021.jpg
If you go with the single stage, I would stear clear(no pun intended) of the hot rod flatz. This is the second time I sprayed it. I am definetly no pro, but without a booth and the inability to buff a flat paintjob, it is hard to get this paint to come out great. It was cold when i sprayed it which had some effect, but overall the laydown was really inconsistant.

redlightningsvx

04-12-2009, 11:32 AM

One word PPG 2060 "flexed and flat" clear. it's the easiest semigloss/flat clear i've ever sprayed.

SVX10

04-14-2009, 10:20 AM

gwarusee, thanks for the update. I've been watching for the latest on your spray job.

I finally got my car fixed, so I can now take it to a paint shop to get some quotes. What happens next depends alot upon what it's going to cost for the different options.

Is the PPG 2060 single stage, or is it just the flattened clearcoat?

BoxerFanatic

04-14-2009, 10:39 AM

Looks very interesting.

I have never painted a thing with an airgun, but it is interesting to read about. My brother-in-law does that for a living...

The Lexus posted is one tuned by Five Axis, and those wheels are available for sale, and are 5x114. S5:F Wheels (X5:F also look good...)
http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-22296486597181_2050_367060182
http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-22296486597181_2050_367101881
http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-22296486597181_2050_368073353

I can't help but wonder what those wheels might look like on an SVX, matte black or otherwise.

Look forward to seeing more pics of the progress on the matte paint job.

redlightningsvx

04-14-2009, 05:45 PM

SVX10, I've never heard of a single stage clear? The PPG 2060 "flexed&flat" clear can be mixed either semi-gloss or flat depending on what you want. I can't remember if you mix it with a little clear for flat or not cause I do mostly semi with it and I put clear/hardener/2060 flexed&flat/reducer. Honestly this clear is dummyproof, it sprays on wet and drys flat so you know you have the thing covered. Get a product data sheet from your local paint supplyer and see what all you need to get with it.

SVX10

04-15-2009, 10:00 AM

That sounds like the Sherwin Williams stuff I played with before. I did a 5:1 flat to regular clear mixture and got a good satin look. It too sprays on wet and drys flat. I was just confirming that it was a clearcoat only (it needs to be sprayed over a color basecoat), not a flat single stage black paint like the Flatz colors.

When I was spraying the Sherwin Williams stuff, I had a hard time getting the reducer and air gun set right. I either had tons of orange peel or runs. Thus, I plan to have somebody else do the actual paint job (as much as I'd like to spray it myself)

redlightningsvx

04-15-2009, 07:01 PM

I've never had any problems getting runs or orange peel with that clear. I just set my gun about 3-3 1/2 turns out, full pattern, and about 25-30psi at the cap. I use a Devilbliss GTI gravity feed gun for my clears.

SVX10

04-16-2009, 08:53 AM

yea....at that time I really didn't know how to set a gun. Because I don't have a paint booth, I'm not too keen on trying to do it myself. Too much work has gone into the prep to allow it to be ruined by me not knowing what I'm doing.

Do you have any pics of the stuff you've sprayed?

gwarusee

04-19-2009, 12:22 PM

Keeping the thread alive.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v310/gwarusee/IMG_0027.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v310/gwarusee/IMG_0028.jpg

SuberNatural

04-19-2009, 12:26 PM

Why didn't you cover the wheels?

Johnybeas

04-19-2009, 06:21 PM

Why didn't you cover the wheels?

or the lights sheesh!:confused: looks good so far though

SVX10

04-20-2009, 10:04 AM

Cool! Thanks for the pics. Looks good. Mine's still sitting in the garage awaiting a new sensor so I can drive it to a few paint shops.

SVX10

04-27-2009, 11:39 AM

Well, this weekend I sprayed the hood, trunk lid, mirrors, door handles, and front bumper cover. I went with a very dark gray from Audi for basecoat, and a flattened clearcoat. The clear applied pretty well, actually with very little orange peel, but the flat clear requires perfect application. I certainly didn't get it perfect, and have 3 nasty runs on the trunk lid (the first part I sprayed)...I quickly learned I needed to move the gun faster. Oh well...gives it character, I guess.

As much as I didn't want to have to buff, it absolutely requires some buffing. This'll gloss it up a bit, but hopefully it'll still keep the cool character that it has right now. I'll get some pics up soon. Hope to spray the rest of the car by the end of the week!

redlightningsvx

04-27-2009, 07:48 PM

What clear did you end up using?

STeeL25T

04-28-2009, 09:38 AM

If I didn't end up buying my favorite color of SVX for my project car, it would absolutely be flat black by the time I was done with it.

SVX10

04-28-2009, 09:41 AM

lol...funny you should ask. I used the Sherwin Williams flattened clear (against all recommendations from everybody).

It turned out horrible :rolleyes: The sad part is that it went on very well with almost no orange peel. Had I used a regular clearcoat I would've been in great shape. I have a picture from when the clear was still wet and it looked great. Things got progressively worse as the clear cured and the flattening agent did its work. The night I painted, when I went to bed it was looking pretty sweet, but as it continued to cure overnight and through the day yesterday it progressively got flatter and flatter and flatter with some areas turning white and milky. Hindsight is always 20/20, eh?

So, it's forcing me to go a completely different direction with this. I think it'll still be cool, but it'll definitely be more unique. Stay tuned.

BoxerFanatic

04-28-2009, 11:33 AM

If I didn't end up buying my favorite color of SVX for my project car, it would absolutely be flat black by the time I was done with it.

I was thinking Ford's new dark Kona Blue with black roof and deck treatment would look nice... That might not even look too bad at all with the matte-finish clear-coat that seems to be a new fashion trend. darker than Laguna blue, more like a blue-version of Claret.

Maybe a tri-tone, with black roof, a medium-dark blue main body color, and a darker blue lower color under the belt-line... and some medium gray or hyper-silver or hyper-black wheels, and tint...

Will be interesting to see what this car ends up doing. Sorry to hear that the clear-coat failed.

Mike621

04-28-2009, 11:48 AM

Perhaps this is a sign, and next time you should take off the bumpers and cladding. ;)

SVX10

04-28-2009, 02:25 PM

lol...took off the front bumper and it was much easier to spray. Rear bumper is such a hassle to get off, though. So much trunk liner to remove.

redlightningsvx

04-28-2009, 03:02 PM

The "flexed & flat" clear sprays 99% of the time with NO ORANGE PEEL or white spots. You should have trusted me as I paint cars everyday.

SVX10

04-30-2009, 05:33 PM

lol..it wasn't an issue of trust. Was I stubborn? Yea. OK...end of story.

Anyway, my screw up is allowing me to express my artistic side in finding a way to address it. I've got lemons now and i'm trying to make lemonade.

The next time I'm looking for perfection, I'll run right to the paint shop and get the flexed 'n' flat. I'll tell 'em you sent me...will I get a discount? :rolleyes:

redlightningsvx

04-30-2009, 06:12 PM

No sorry you won't.....lol...........and I want to see some damn pics already!

SVX10

05-06-2009, 05:05 PM

haha...I'm nervous to post them. Everybody's gonna be all judgemental like "Why'd you do that?" :D

It looks cool, but it's definitely different.

redlightningsvx

05-06-2009, 05:31 PM

You should have seen the first time I painted my car. It looked like chip guard from the doors up, and I even took it to Reading last year. It's all a learing process so show the pics and I could give you some pointers from looking at them.

SVX10

05-06-2009, 05:46 PM

Well, the way it is right now you won't be able to see what I did wrong during the application because I've sanded it down. My guess, though, is that I put it on too thick, and used too much flat clear in my flat:regular clearcoat ratio. Biggest issue was probably too thick of a coat, though.

So, I ended up with the really white, hazy areas where the clear was too thick and the flattener really flattened it out. I tried 600grit sanding to get to a point where I could re-apply and not have any white, but that was taking FOREVER. The last thing I want to do at this point is re-sand the hood, front bumper, trunk lid, mirrors, and door handles.

With the 600 going too slow, I moved straight to 80 grit, and I sanded as though I were sanding filler. It knocked down the white spots very quickly and left a really cool crosshatch in the clearcoat...cool enough that I said to myself "hey...I just might leave it like this!" It has the appearance of distressed furniture, and i think it'll look really cool after I add the gold accents I'm planning to add after it's all painted black.

So, that's what the pics will show...a fresh paint job sanded down with an 80 grit crosshatch pattern.

The upside is that it'll be incredibly easy to make the rest of the car match when I paint it, and it'll be incredibly easy to touch up in the future. Plus, it won't show scratches.

Considering that it looks cool and has those advantages, I'm planning to just stick with it. I'll throw up some pics tonight.

If I ever do another job in the future, though, it's getting a gloss finish to show off all the prep work I did. That's my biggest regret...I did some really good prep work and it won't be anything anybody will be able to appreciate.

Mat

SVX10

05-07-2009, 12:07 AM

http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/matwithonetwright/SVX/

That link takes you from primer through prep through spray through curing through crosshatch sanding.

SVX10

11-08-2009, 10:24 PM

subbieatnz

11-09-2009, 01:28 AM

svxistentialist

11-09-2009, 03:21 AM

Well, I suppose perseverance and learning from mistakes yields good results!

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/matwithonetwright/painted%20SVX/IMG_0545.jpg

More pics available here:
http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/matwithonetwright/painted%20SVX/

Not sure what happened to make this time around a success vs. the miserable failure of last time. I modified the amount of flattening agent, which I'm sure helped alot, and I also used a 1.3mm tip for the clearcoat instead of 1.5mm.

You have done a superb job, looks very well. :D

Like Subbie, I'm not really a fan of the flat or satin finishes but you have produced a lovely job here and congratulations.

Your Rota G's look stylish as well and they will stay looking good until you rub them off a few kerbs! :eek: For that problem it would be the Enkeis for me, every time.

Nice job man, nice job. Post pics when you have it assembled.

Joe :)

STeeL25T

11-09-2009, 05:30 AM

I knew flat black would look awesome on these cars, it really shows off the amazing lines we have. Remind me of the Tumbler from Batman Begins haha.

SVX10

11-09-2009, 08:37 AM

You have done a superb job, looks very well. :D

Like Subbie, I'm not really a fan of the flat or satin finishes but you have produced a lovely job here and congratulations.

Your Rota G's look stylish as well and they will stay looking good until you rub them off a few kerbs! :eek: For that problem it would be the Enkeis for me, every time.

Nice job man, nice job. Post pics when you have it assembled.

Joe :)

Thanks :)

The Rotas are going to be a bit of an issue. They're waaay too wide and rubbing pretty severely. I'm not sure if negative camber will be enough to fix it :( I may have to try to trade somebody for the same wheel in an 18x8.5 and larger offset.