Crankshaft Stopper (498497200) Tool

[jimireb]

Can anyone tell me how to acquire or borrow this tool, or at minimum provide some specs to make such a tool so I don't have to buy it?? We have a machine shop accessible, so making one up should be fairly simple--just want to get an idea how the tool is configured. A picture of one would be helpful, or sketches with dims would be better. Thanks, and boy am I glad someone decided to get this site going in lieu of Yahoo clubs! :)

[Ovidiu STAN]

If you need that tool only to remove the crankshaft nut I have another suggestion (at least it worked for me):

Get a rubber strap wrench from Sears (if you broke it they will replace it ... right?). Of course a lot of other companies are offering this kind of tool. It is only $19.xx (they gave you a set of 2) and you will be amazed what it can do for you.



The handle is long enough so you can put it against something solid (I forgot what I used but Subaru conviniently had that part there) while with a brake bar (I used a 5' bar) you can pry the nut.

It worked! I've remove it alone.

Good luck.

[jimireb]

Thanks Stan. I actually looked at those strap wrenches at Sears (aslo had then for 5.00 cheaper at Lowe's) but I thought that they would break right away. My neighbor has a chain-type strap wrench that was too short. I swear I have seen a good nylon strap wrench somewhere but fof the life of me could not find one when I needed it. Anyway, made myself a quick tool and it worked fine. Nice to have a machine shop when you need it. Thanks for the post.

[Mr. Pockets]

I was able to remove the bolt with a breaker bar and a rubber mallet (known in my house as the rubber wrench). It only took a couple of good whacks.

Maybe that was bad, maybe not. But it worked. I figured the engine went through much greater stresses while running than I could induce by myself...

...without explosives, that is. :D

[AutoTchr]

Old Trick. Brace a long breaker bar against something solid like the subframe etc. Hop in the car and *bump* the starter.

Done. Doesn't hurt a thing.

[Mr. Pockets]

Originally posted by AutoTchr
Old Trick. Brace a long breaker bar against something solid like the subframe etc. Hop in the car and *bump* the starter.

Done. Doesn't hurt a thing.

Nice tip - thanks. :) But what about what I did? Is that okay to do - smacking it hard without bracing the crank pulley at all?

[Beav]

Doesn't hurt a thing until it slips loose and whacks a nice gash in the radiator or a bystander's head. Plus, how many people here do you think know how to keep the engine from starting when they 'bump' it? Not safe.

[Beav]

Originally posted by Mr. Pockets


Nice tip - thanks. :) But what about what I did? Is that okay to do - smacking it hard without bracing the crank pulley at all?

No problem on a non-interference engine. Actually a regular ol' heavy hammer (being pc here ;) ) would do it quicker, just be careful to not let it slip off and gouge the radiator or bounce back and whack you in the mouth. (Yup, I've seen that happen - twice. Not to me, luckily. Both guys were visibly hurting.)

[jimireb]

Hey all,

I did try the BOH thing, problem was whoever worked on it in the past must've impacted it back on, couldn't get it to break loose with a hammer at all. Plus, last one who removed the bolt used a chisel to remove it. Poor car. Can't account for lack of intelligence from prior mechanics. Anyway, got it apart and have a nice little homemade tool to throw in the toolbox just in case. Fixing a couple of little oil drips on the upper plugs and then (gasp) I have to sell it. That'll be the next post. :(

[Beav]

And you call a person that would do that a mechanic? ;)

Glad you got it off.

[AutoTchr]

Originally posted by Beav
Doesn't hurt a thing until it slips loose and whacks a nice gash in the radiator or a bystander's head. Plus, how many people here do you think know how to keep the engine from starting when they 'bump' it? Not safe.

(feeling a bit sheepish for mentioning it) Yup that is always a concern and I should not have mentioned it for that reason. I come from a long line of mechanics and I forget that not everyone could accomplish this proceedure correctly. Myself? Done it a million times with no ill effects. Do I teach it in class? No. Do I teach it to a good student? Yes. Is it safe? Totally. If you brace it well and *bump* the starter. Whatever you do don't let the breaker bar *slap* anything.

;) I am willing to bet that Beav has done it also (in a pinch):) :) :)

Oh yea, hammers don't always work. Sometimes they do though.

[Beav]

I'll never forget the story a phone tech told me one night at a trade meeting:

"A customer called one afternoon and asked if I had a trick for removing the large center nut from a VW beetle rear brake drum.
I told him that the easiest way I had come up with was to use a large pipe and a breaker bar, the loose end resting against the floor, and to start the car, easing the clutch up and allowing the engine to break the nut free.

"Well, about fifteen minutes later the customer called back, kind of excited and wondering if I knew how to roll the car back over on its 'feet'. He had used a ten foot long pipe and accidently let the clutch pedal slip up from under his foot, thereby flipping the car over onto its roof!" What a wild ride that must have been, inside the shop, no less! :D :D :p

That's why I'm careful about what I recommend - there's a lot of things you and I would do without thinking twice. This story helps keep me in check.

[AutoTchr]

Good story Beav:D And point taken. I forget what those VW nuts get tightened to, but it is insane. They are very tight.

[Beav]

I can tell you that if you don't get them tight the axle will strip the splines out of the soft drums. I've replaced more than a few "My car won't move" drums in past years.