Making My Own Clear Headlights from Lexan

[94SubieSVX]

Since the smallcar clear headlight kit is so expnsive I've decided to attempt my own clear lenses. I bought a sheet of Lexan to try and use. I haven't finished the first "lense" yet, but it didn't take long to do what I did so far. I'm going to make them shaped as similar as I can so installing them will be very similar to smallcar's.

I'm using an existing headlight as the mold and just temporarily attaching the lexan to it so I can use it as a mold.

First I cut a piece to the approximate size of the headlight face.

I'm heating it up by holding the face of the headlight over top of my electric stove on HIGH. It was so hot that it started to melt my oven mitts:eek:

This is where I screwed up. To keep the Lexan on I used double sided tape. Big mistake, I should've known it would melt once it got hot. I'm just gonna finish up this first test piece with the double sided tape, but I will have to find out something else to use next time.

Anyway, the lexan molded pretty well to the top to bottom and left to right contour of the headlight. There's one spot though, where I held it too close to the burner and it started to bubble and warp. A mistake I know not to do next time, also not to rush.

When I was doing the top lip, I just heated the whole length of the top side of the lexan. Once it was soft enough I just molded it to the shape of the top part of the headlight. Making sure I held it in place so it didn't spring back to its normal, flat shape.

Here's 2 pics of what I have so far.

If I finish these the way I like it, I may make a few extra sets to sell if anybody would be interested. I would sell them at a MUCH lower price than smallcar. Or if anybody would want them installed you can send me your headlights and I can make them and fit them at the same time. This would be another discussion for another time though. Just thought I would throw the idea out there.


Please give me any feedback, positive and/or negative about this people!

[sicksubie]

I would be interested in a set. If you can do this well and sell it for less than small car I think you be able to sell quite a few.

[94SubieSVX]

I'm not too sure on the price right now, but it will definately be less than half of what small car is.

I just got finished molding the bottom lip and one side lip. Now that I have a little more experience with timing how long to heat the lexan it's getting easier to mold it.

I think I'm gonna make another "test" piece before I make my personal set, then I will start making sets to sell.


Everything would be so much easier if I only had a heat gun:rolleyes:. It would save me from sweating like a slave too:lol:

[crazyhorse]

Instead of using the stove & risking a nice little fire. You MIGHT try a good heat gun.
Lexan that thin can be molded at around 200deg. Cut the lexan about 2" larger than you need. Build a 2pc frame 1" wide that just slides over the mold with a gap equal to the thicknes of the lexan. Make sure you can trap the lexan between the frame's halves solidly. Thumbscrews work good for this. Heat the lexan until it JUST starts to sag. Then pull it over the mold. Hold it there until it cools. Pull the lexan out of the frame, trim as needed, then install with clear 5min epoxy. This is a cheapskate's vacuum former.
If I were a betting man I'd wager that the smallcar kit is vacuformed.
If you get this working, you could step up to polycarbonate. It'd cost more for the materials, but it works at slightly higher temps, and would provide a product that surpasses OEM.

In lieu of a heat gun, you could suspend the frame in the oven @ 200deg until the lexan sags

[GreenMarine]

Good on ya man!!! Keep up the good work!! I hope to see something that looks as good, if not better than the Smallcar kit... I got ripped off enough by smallcar, so the last thing I want to do is give them more money...

~ Chris

[YourConfused]

Lexan is polycarbonate last time I checked.

[Sir. Nate]

I'd be down for a set, if and when you start cranking 'em out.

[94SubieSVX]

Instead of using the stove & risking a nice little fire. You MIGHT try a good heat gun.

I really wish I had one of those right now:p

Lexan that thin can be molded at around 200deg.

The lexan I bought is .093" thick, it was the thinnest Home Depot had when I went today.

Cut the lexan about 2" larger than you need.

That's about what I did. I had at least a 1" overhang on every side that I could work with to mold it. I think next time though I'll do at least a 2" overhang on every side.

Build a 2pc frame 1" wide that just slides over the mold with a gap equal to the thicknes of the lexan. Make sure you can trap the lexan between the frame's halves solidly. Thumbscrews work good for this. Heat the lexan until it JUST starts to sag. Then pull it over the mold. Hold it there until it cools.

I kind of have an idea of what you mean but can you elaborate more on it?


Pull the lexan out of the frame, trim as needed, then install with clear 5min epoxy. This is a cheapskate's vacuum former.

Is that how you would install the final product? If so, the way I'm doing will be to cut the face of the headlight off just like smallcar has you do.


In lieu of a heat gun, you could suspend the frame in the oven @ 200deg until the lexan sags

That's the general idea of how I'm doing it now. Just a more open area so the heat disipates quicker.



the message i entered is now long enough

[It's Just Eric]

wow...it could actually work. can't wait to see the finished product

[94SubieSVX]

Here's a couple more pics.

Mostly of the bottom and one side that I got finished.

[crazyhorse]

For the frame think picture frame with a handle. Cut it from some 1/8" luan (plywood) make 2 squarish frames that are close to the size & shape of the light assy. leave a "handle" on one. Drill holes so you can bolt them together with the lexan between them. This gives your hands a break from the heat.

A quick search on vacuum forming will net you ALL KINDS of ideas.

[94SubieSVX]

For the frame think picture frame with a handle. Cut it from some 1/8" luan (plywood) make 2 squarish frames that are close to the size & shape of the light assy. leave a "handle" on one. Drill holes so you can bolt them together with the lexan between them. This gives your hands a break from the heat.

A quick search on vacuum forming will net you ALL KINDS of ideas.


oooo ok, I understand now. That is a good idea.

I was even starting to use linesmans pliers to push and hold down the lexan while it cooled.

[ridered777]

Lexan is STRONG stuff...

But. When talking thermodynamics, thickness is more important than that. I'm sure you've noticed many imperfections thus far, I can see quite a few in the pictures.

I would consider upping the thickness, with the premise that it would cause the area you wish to remain "flat" or un-changed (the face of the lens) more resilient to change. This would cause more heat to be used, but as such, you should be able to be a little more... careful? Accurate?

Just a thought. It seems really thin to me, I could see attaching it to be an issue also, with epoxy running all over the place and making a mess. I would have done this sort of thing a long time ago if I could get my hands on an extra set of headlights... Then I would work on the angel eyes too. However, I don't, so good luck!

[94SubieSVX]

The thickness is listed on the plastic as .093", but looking at it, it seems to be about 1/8" thick.


I think the next test piece I'm going to hold a piece of Lexan with a pair of pliers on each end, longwise. Turn the oven on to about 300 degrees F. Wait til it heats up and just hold the Lexan in it until it gets hot enough and is floppy. Then I will just lay it on the face of the headlight and let it contort to the surface of the headlight, and mold the top, bottom, and sides to the headlight.

[SubaSteevo]

I remember a member named "museumquality" doing his own clears WAY before the SmallCar kit. If you search around you might be able to find some info that'll help you on your quest.

[94SubieSVX]

I remember a member named "museumquality" doing his own clears WAY before the SmallCar kit. If you search around you might be able to find some info that'll help you on your quest.


Hmm, I'll have to do some searching now:) Thanks Steve


Edit- Steve thanks for bringing this up. I just saw his pics of it. I like it, and it gave me more ideas:D

[94SubieSVX]

Update-

I tried heating the lexan up and just laying it on the face of the headlight. I worked a little bit, but I don't think it was soft enough because when I would push one side down, the other would go up. Also it wasn't even the slighest bit sticky because it was sliding all over the headlight.



What I plan on trying next is

Making a plaster mold of the front of the headlight.
Heating the Lexan up so it is softer and more flexible than any other time I have heated it up. It has to act like wet spaghetti.
Place the mold on a table and lay the heated Lexan on top of it.
Then using the headlight, mush the Lexan into the mold and hold it in until it hardens to the shape of the mold/headlight.In theory, this sounds like it would work the best because the lexan will be more "controlled" and not able to move and get mishapen. I'm getting plaster tonight and will post results after I try it.


PS- another thing I'm a little worried about is even when handling the Lexan, the slightest scratch seems to show up easily. I don't know if after heating it up and cooling it, if it will make the lexan itself harder and more resistant to scratches. Hopefully I won't be wasting my money working with Lexan because this stuff is pretty expensive:eek:

[YourConfused]

I'm seeing frustration in your future.:p
I would have gone with the frame idea if I were you, but I am not. So, good luck.:)

[94SubieSVX]

I'm seeing frustration in your future.:p
I would have gone with the frame idea if I were you, but I am not. So, good luck.:)


I like the frame idea, but the way I'm understanding it, it doesn't sound like there will be constant contact between the lexan and headlight once I put it on after it's heated up. Using the frame to me would work better on a flat surface, or surface with only once curve. Instead of our headlights which have a slight compound curve in them.



EDIT- Wow, I just re-read your explanation of the frame. I now fully understand what you mean.
You're saying make it so the lexan streches over the headlight right? ANd you would pull it down with the handles you were saying to make. Kind of like when you put saran wrap over a bowl right?

[Crazy_pilot]

EDIT- Wow, I just re-read your explanation of the frame. I now fully understand what you mean.
You're saying make it so the lexan streches over the headlight right? ANd you would pull it down with the handles you were saying to make. Kind of like when you put saran wrap over a bowl right?

That's it. Here's a picture of the idea:

http://www.creamyrobotgoodness.com/media/random/vacuform-rig-mold-12-31-05-small.jpg

The lexan is held in that frame, then heated, then the frame is pulled down over the headlight. The Lexan will stretch over the headlights.

[94SubieSVX]

That is EXACTLY what I had finally figured out how 'your confused'(haha how ironic of a name) was saying.

The one thing that gets me is that when the lexan stretches it's gonna get thinner than the 1/8" it already is. I think I'll try a thicker piece next, maybe 3/16" or even 1/4". The 1/4" would probably thin out to about 1/8" after it stretches.


I think before I open the bag of plaster I'll try out the strech-over-the-headlight idea first. That way if it works(probably will) I can get my $15 back:D

[b3lha]

The best way to do this is to find somebody with a vacuum forming machine.

It holds the lexan in a frame, heats it up, pulls it down over the mould and sucks out all the air for a perfect fit.

http://www.technologystudent.com/equip1/vacform1.htm

[superru]

we have a vac-form machine here at my work. next couple weeks i'll try to make a mold of the head lights. but wouldn't forming over the stock light make a negitive mold that is 1/8" bigger (all the way around) than the stock light. then cutting the stock light the new mold wouldn't fit. so you would have to (inside the new neg mold) whatever the thickness of the material your using, line the inside with that. then when you pull the new mold of the "smaller" one, it will fit the stock housing perfect! did i loose anyone?
:confused: let me know if i've missed something.

[YourConfused]

That sounds about right superru.

[94SubieSVX]

The best way to do this is to find somebody with a vacuum forming machine.

It holds the lexan in a frame, heats it up, pulls it down over the mould and sucks out all the air for a perfect fit.

http://www.technologystudent.com/equip1/vacform1.htm


I wish I would have the money to be able to use a vacuum forming machine. The whole reason I'm trying this is so it will be a whole lot cheaper than the small car lenses. Also, I don't think many people would want to buy these, so unless there's about 20 people or so it wouldn't be worth it.



we have a vac-form machine here at my work. next couple weeks i'll try to make a mold of the head lights. but wouldn't forming over the stock light make a negitive mold that is 1/8" bigger (all the way around) than the stock light. then cutting the stock light the new mold wouldn't fit. so you would have to (inside the new neg mold) whatever the thickness of the material your using, line the inside with that. then when you pull the new mold of the "smaller" one, it will fit the stock housing perfect! did i loose anyone?
:confused: let me know if i've missed something.


That makes sense but I'm not going to make one single mold. I'll be using the "frame method" to make each clear headlight.

[Tim]

Just remember to make me the lexan headlight covers for my glass headlights ;)

[superru]

the vacu form method is not all the complicated, if you have the time and some mechanical skills you can make a small "one purpose" machine.
basicly just a lower table with small holes in it that you set your peice on, and the "frame" that is pictured earlier sits on top of the lower table.
mabie a shop-vac would provide enough suction. but to heat up the plastic... you could put it in a electric oven about 300-350 works pretty good.
then suck away!!

[SilverSpear]

Well if anybody wants to take this to the next level, I highly suggest removing the OEM lens alone and working on it with a vacuum machine.

It would facilitate everything ;)

and b3lha, great link (as always ;))

[94SubieSVX]

Well if anybody wants to take this to the next level, I highly suggest removing the OEM lens alone and working on it with a vacuum machine.

It would facilitate everything ;)




Doing it like that would make it alot easier. I'm not sure if a shop vac would provide enough suction though?

[superru]

ya i'm not really sure, it might. when i get a chance i'll have to give it a shot.

[94SubieSVX]

I just got done making my "picture frame" to hold the lexan so I can stretch it over the headlight. Just gotta wait til the stove isn't in use:rolleyes:


Hopefully this will work

[crazyhorse]

A shop vac should do it, if the mold is just the lens. Or your plaster idea could work if you just make it about 1/2-3/4in thick.

[94SubieSVX]

I was thinking more about the plaster idea, and now it doesn't seem like it would work.


When I would go to push the headlight into it, the edges would most likely hit first, and it would wrinkle up the lexan inside towards the center of the headlight. I wouldn't know while I'm doing itbecause I'd be pushing on it so it would take shape, then it would be all rippled.

[crazyhorse]

Make a positive plaster mold, then use the frame method to pull the lexan over it.

[94SubieSVX]

Make a positive plaster mold, then use the frame method to pull the lexan over it.


Would that include cutting the stock lenses off then filling it with plaster?



Also, just got done trying the new frame. It definately works, but I need a good strong clamp to hold the headlight down while I apply pressure. Also I need to stop being so damn impatient when I'm heating the lexan because I keep getting bubbles in it, argg.

I'll give it another shot tomorrow.

[processengr]

Hi,
If you have a toaster oven you can trash, cut away some of each side to accomodate the sheet your working with. I've seen 1st hand "artwork" quality end results in polycarbonate sheet and tubing using a modified toaster oven...

[crazyhorse]

Would that include cutting the stock lenses off then filling it with plaster?



Also, just got done trying the new frame. It definately works, but I need a good strong clamp to hold the headlight down while I apply pressure. Also I need to stop being so damn impatient when I'm heating the lexan because I keep getting bubbles in it, argg.

I'll give it another shot tomorrow.

No, put about 2in of plaster in a bucket big enough to hold the light. Coat the light with vaseline as a "release agent" then set it into the wet plaster. Let the plaster set up , then remove the light. Coat the negative mold with vaseline, pour it full of plaster, let it set up, then pull the "positive" mold out. Sand 1/8" off the positive to get the size right, then use it for vacuforming.

[94SubieSVX]

Hi,
If you have a toaster oven you can trash, cut away some of each side to accomodate the sheet your working with. I've seen 1st hand "artwork" quality end results in polycarbonate sheet and tubing using a modified toaster oven...


Sounds like it could work, but I don't think the amount of heat put out by a toaster on high, would be more compared to an electric range on high. I would be there even longer heating it up.


No, put about 2in of plaster in a bucket big enough to hold the light. Coat the light with vaseline as a "release agent" then set it into the wet plaster. Let the plaster set up , then remove the light. Coat the negative mold with vaseline, pour it full of plaster, let it set up, then pull the "positive" mold out. Sand 1/8" off the positive to get the size right, then use it for vacuforming.


Hmm, maybe I won't take back that plaster just yet then:rolleyes::)

[SilverSpear]

1- Plaster won't work. Try it and you will see why.
2- You are getting bubbles because you are OVER-heating the process (I think). I recommend you try to experiment on a sample piece first, at what heat degree Lexan would begin to soften. And try to find the NON-Bubbling heat :D level for you to pull it successfully ;)

Hope it works :o

[superru]

yes the heat is critical.. not "high" not broil the intense heat from the element will bubble it. heating the oven up and then putting the peice in, without the intense direct heat from the element you should be ok.

[SubaSteevo]

Sounds like it could work, but I don't think the amount of heat put out by a toaster on high, would be more compared to an electric range on high. I would be there even longer heating it up.

My toaster oven goes up to ~450 degrees.

Here's some info I found on people making windscreens for their bikes (http://vfrworld.com/forums/52394-post6.html), seems that you only need need to get the lexan up to about 200 degrees or so.

[SilverSpear]

yes the heat is critical.. not "high" not broil the intense heat from the element will bubble it. heating the oven up and then putting the peice in, without the intense direct heat from the element you should be ok.


I say the opposite. Put the piece in then heat up the oven little by little until noticing the shape forming up ;)

[It's Just Eric]

yes, Ive been reading up on this stuff...It's best to let it heat SLOWLY to the 200 somethin degrees

You'll want to make a home made style vacume table...Dont worry, it's EASY. Get a piece of peg board, and a little ply wood. You just gotta make a shallow box, with the peg board on top. you'll need a pvc pire fitting at the side to attach a shop vac hose. becaue the headlight housing is cumbersome, you MIGHT want to cut the lense part your replacing OFF, and vacu-form just that part (Or, go with the previously mentioned mold idea)

[superru]

perfect DIY!! i just couldn't get the idea out of my head on to the computer! stuck in neutral>? :lol: yep that'll work, the upper frame has to seal over the entire lower frame, or it won't suck.. you can do it 94subie!!

[94SubieSVX]

Just made an almost perfect lens. The shape and everything is about 95% perfect, but there's a lot of heat bubbles because I used an already used piece. Just did that to save lexan. Anyway here's some pics.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/HPIM0327.jpg?t=1196817385

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/HPIM0326.jpg?t=1196817432

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/HPIM0324.jpg?t=1196817487

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/HPIM0323.jpg?t=1196817569

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/HPIM0322.jpg?t=1196817608

It took me about 5 minutes with the burner on high, holding it about 6inches away from it, until it got soft enough to stretch.

Tomorrow I'll make another piece. This time hopefully I won't make any heat bubbles. I just gotta take my time.

[TomsSVX]

NICE!!!

Tom

[crazyhorse]

Looking good!

[Tim]

Nice progress so far... and thanks for shrinking the pics :)

[It's Just Eric]

Bill,
Put the thing IN the oven, set at like 200 degrees for a few minutes. The more even heat will likely reduce bubbles a bit. just make sure the lexan is propped up on something so it doesnt touch the grating

[superru]

looking good man! are you using a vac? or just gravity to pull it down?
now you got me all jacked up and wanting to start on mine:)

[94SubieSVX]

looking good man! are you using a vac? or just gravity to pull it down?
now you got me all jacked up and wanting to start on mine:)


That was using a kitchen drawer to hold the headlight, while I put massive amounts of pressure on the plastic to form. I should have let it heat up for about a minute longer so it would be easier to stretch.

Next time I'm gonna try the vac method though.

[ridered777]

now you got me all jacked up and wanting to start on mine:)

Ditto. Insert drooling smileys here...:D

Or better yet, you have me eager with anticipation for when you start selling... I call first in line! :)

[94SubieSVX]

I started making a Vacuum Form Mold Machine, and made a negative(I think) mold of the headlight. That's so I can use the negative mold of the headlight to make a positive(I think) mold of the headlight to use for the vacuum forming. The aluminum rectangle is one of two that I made so I can clamp the lexan to, to stretch over the mold.

I'm using the idea from here (http://www.vacuumformerplans.blogspot.com/)


Now onto the pictures.:)


My mixer bottle, an old wiper fluid bottle.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/7.jpg?t=1196990842


The frame used to hold the Lexan in place for forming.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/5.jpg?t=1196990934


Letting the plaster harden a little before I set the headlight into it. I took an eBay shoe-box and cut it in half longwise to make two halves for each headlight molds.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/1.jpg?t=1196991059


I had to press the headlight down because I put it in the plaster a few minutes too late. It was about the consistency of play-doh when I put it in. The plaster kept pushing the headlight out unless I kept pressure on it. I used saran wrap to seperate the headlight from the plaster to make pulling it out easier.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/2.jpg?t=1196991156




The negative mold should be hard enough by now to make the positive mold. I'll post pictures once I get everything set-up.

[TomsSVX]

looking good man

Tom

[94SubieSVX]

Here's some more pictures. I just poured the positive mold of the headlight.


I just pulled the headlight out of the plaster. I shaved a little of the plaster off along the "bottom" of the headlight in the mold. To make the removal of the positive mold easier.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/Picture001.jpg?t=1196993797


Layed down the saran wrap for the positive mold.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/Picture002.jpg?t=1196993864


Just poured the plaster for the positive mold.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/Picture003.jpg?t=1196993992


Once the positive mold is hard enough, I'll take it out and do some sanding to shape it up.

[It's Just Eric]

Hmmm...Looking pretty good dude

If you havent done one for the other side yet...Try using dish soap as a mold seperator instead of the plastic wrap to avoid having to do too much sanding

Otherwise, damn boy, your making some progress!!

[Tim]

Hey look its OT doing the tutorial http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGBRiYhxRTM :lol:

[94SubieSVX]

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/Picture.jpg?t=1197003171


I think I'm going to take your approach Eric, and re-do this mold using dish soap. It won't be as wrinkled and leave me with less sanding to do. This project is taking shape and coming along pretty well I must say. If it continues this fast, I should have the first set finished and installed by late next week.


Whoever was interested in a set, if you want one speak up, we can start the sign-up list now.

I've decided on a price as well,based on the amount spent on materials, time spent working on this, and the overall product itself. $75 plus shipping(shouldn't be much) to anywhere. I know you'll want to see the finished product first so I won't take any money now, only once they're finished.

[YourConfused]

If you stretched it all first and then used some heat the plastic wrap/ plaster mold thing would have had much better results. I have done many things like this in the past and will just say that you are a few tries away from attaining what you are wishing for. As you have seen, you need a smooth mold to get a smooth cast. Plastic wrap will work if stretched taught. Otherwise you get the old man syndrome...

[94SubieSVX]

If you stretched it all first and then used some heat the plastic wrap/ plaster mold thing would have had much better results. I have done many things like this in the past and will just say that you are a few tries away from attaining what you are wishing for. As you have seen, you need a smooth mold to get a smooth cast. Plastic wrap will work if stretched taught. Otherwise you get the old man syndrome...


The plastice worked well when I used the actual headlight to make the negative mold, since the pressure was on it all at once. But for the positive mold, there were lots of tight angles and trying to get the plastic to form fit was hard, even when I was tapping the whole mold to get the are bubbles out.

[94SubieSVX]

I made another mold using just dish soap this time.


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/newmold.jpg?t=1197061894


Here it is. It's so much better than with saran wrap.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/newmold2.jpg?t=1197062927

Won't be too much sanding on this mold.

I can't wait to finish the vacuum form "machine" so I can make a lens:D

[crazyhorse]

You'll do SOME sanding. You need to reduce the size by 1/8 on all 4 sides. This will compensate for the thicknes of the Lexan.

[superru]

i love it!!! right on the money man!! just make sure you get that plastic hot enough to vac it tight! super job :eek:

[Roo]

I spoke with a TAP Plastics store manager about this project, and he brought up a few things which may/may not help.

1. The lexan, when heated past 212 degrees, becomes VERY moisture prone, and will absorb moisture, which is what causes the bubbling.

2. The lexan may/may not melt, given the temperature of the halogen bulbs and the heat that is created...which is obviously how you're forming these in the first place. If you use thicker Lexan, it would simply retain more heat than thinner Lexan, but would last a bit longer before meltdown occurs.

Again, this is the opinion of a guy who's been doing plastics for some time now, and is only meant for informational purposes. I'd like to see you succeed, and would be happy to purchase a set of these when they become available.

[94SubieSVX]

I spoke with a TAP Plastics store manager about this project, and he brought up a few things which may/may not help.

1. The lexan, when heated past 212 degrees, becomes VERY moisture prone, and will absorb moisture, which is what causes the bubbling.

2. The lexan may/may not melt, given the temperature of the halogen bulbs and the heat that is created...which is obviously how you're forming these in the first place. If you use thicker Lexan, it would simply retain more heat than thinner Lexan, but would last a bit longer before meltdown occurs.

Again, this is the opinion of a guy who's been doing plastics for some time now, and is only meant for informational purposes. I'd like to see you succeed, and would be happy to purchase a set of these when they become available.


Good info. I could get thicker lexan if needed. But I also, have HIDs so the temperature is alot less than normal halogens.

Now that I know the temperature(212 degrees) that lexan gets soft at, I will put it in the oven at 200 degrees for however long I need it to.

[94SubieSVX]

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/Picture004.jpg?t=1197321643


Did some sanding today. There's a couple of small dips that I will fill in later. I just have to make another mold like this but for the other headlight, and I can start molding.

There's a few things left I need to finish up with the vacuum former then it'll be ready to go.


Getting closer to finishing:)

[crazyhorse]

Get some bondo glazing putty to fill the low spots. Then glaze over the whole thing for strength.

[94SubieSVX]

Get some bondo glazing putty to fill the low spots. Then glaze over the whole thing for strength.


I was thinking of using bondo.

It'sJustEric even gave me the idea of making the whole mold out of bondo. It would be super strong but would take forever to make.

[It's Just Eric]

lol, no, it'd be faster to make. the trouble is the viscosity....It might be too thick to get the right shape, though, you'r not doing a very complicated shape or anything, so Id say give it a try, even if it';s like, the 3rd try doing it

[b3lha]

I keep thinking that you will need more vacuum than a you will get from a vacuum cleaner. A vacuum forming machine sucks pretty hard.

If the shop vac doesn't suck it tight enough around the mould, try with a vacuum pump. They seem to go quite cheap on ebay. Have a look at item 350000857210

[superru]

how much HG does that thing suck? for forming we have a pump that does 60 INhg. that's a suckin fool! but we're also doing huge 4'x6' peices. i hope the old shop vac works for you! i'm still kinda busy around the shop here, i hope to try one before the new year.

[Roo]

I keep thinking that you will need more vacuum than a you will get from a vacuum cleaner. A vacuum forming machine sucks pretty hard.

Go to your local red-light district and hire someone off the corner... ;)

[Tim]

Go to your local red-light district and hire someone off the corner... ;)

Make sure you protect the mold:p

[94SubieSVX]

lol, no, it'd be faster to make. the trouble is the viscosity....It might be too thick to get the right shape, though, you'r not doing a very complicated shape or anything, so Id say give it a try, even if it';s like, the 3rd try doing it


Well in a sense it would take longer because I'd have to do a few layers a a time to get into the tight corners, but I know what you mean.


Yeah, I hope the shop vac works, and if not, I'm goin downtown to get someone:lol::barf:

[94SubieSVX]

Got a bit done. Here's a few pics of what I did.

Here's the frame holding the lexan in it. Made it just like a video posted earlier in this thread.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/Picture006.jpg?t=1197596850



Here's the setup. The oven is just out of the picture to the left, close enough that the lexan doesn't get hard once out of the oven.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/Picture007.jpg?t=1197597092



The first frmae holder setup. I had to raise it about 3 inches more to allow for the sagging lexan.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/Picture009.jpg?t=1197597177




I had made a 95% perfect mold at first, but two corners weren't up against the plaster mold good enough. So I raised the plaster mold about 1/2" and re-heated the lexan again.

This is what happens if you re-heat the lexan multiple times at about 375degrees and leave it in for too long. It had sagged so much that it started coming out of the frame and was so long that it got wrinkled as you can see.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/Picture012.jpg?t=1197597225


I'm going to start fresh with a new piece and make sure to watch it before it sags too much.

[SubaSteevo]

Got a bit done. Here's a few pics of what I did.

Here's the frame holding the lexan in it. Made it just like a video posted earlier in this thread.


Here's the setup. The oven is just out of the picture to the left, close enough that the lexan doesn't get hard once out of the oven.


The first frmae holder setup. I had to raise it about 3 inches more to allow for the sagging lexan.

I had made a 95% perfect mold at first, but two corners weren't up against the plaster mold good enough. So I raised the plaster mold about 1/2" and re-heated the lexan again.

This is what happens if you re-heat the lexan multiple times at about 375degrees and leave it in for too long. It had sagged so much that it started coming out of the frame and was so long that it got wrinkled as you can see.

I'm going to start fresh with a new piece and make sure to watch it before it sags too much.


Why are you heating it up so much? All the information we've passed on says to heat it up to 200-250ish. 375 is definitely too high.

[94SubieSVX]

Why are you heating it up so much? All the information we've passed on says to heat it up to 200-250ish. 375 is definitely too high.


I started out at 200, nothing, then went up by 25degree increments for at least 5 minutes. Once I hit 300 it actually started to get soft. Once I hit 350 it was starting to sag, so I let it stay there for over 10minutes, but it just wouldn't get stretchy enough. So I put it at 375 for less than 5minutes and it got stretchy enough. I tried it multiple times by heating, forming, not getting a good form, then re-heating. I did that about 3-4 times and it wore out the lexan, then finally it just gave up and sagged an incredible amount(as shown in the pic by the overlaps).


- And I had left it in at 200-225 for at least a half hour before I upped the temp.

[SilverSpear]

Try the process once more, but leave it at 250 for a long time. let it soften at that temperature and take as much time as it wants.

Let us know how it goes then.

[superru]

hey man, how'd the shop vac work?

[94SubieSVX]

Try the process once more, but leave it at 250 for a long time. let it soften at that temperature and take as much time as it wants.

Let us know how it goes then.

Will do, I don't have work til 5pm tomorrow so I have all day to mess with it.



hey man, how'd the shop vac work?


My lil' 1.5hp shop vac actually worked pretty good. Once the lexan was heated enough it sucked pretty well:rolleyes::p.
I just gotta seal up the little holes that seemed to work their way into the framework.

[crazyhorse]

I just gotta seal up the little holes that seemed to work their way into the framework.

Quick tip....Chewing gum!

[94SubieSVX]

Quick tip....Chewing gum!


Sweet deal thanks!:)

[demonsvx]

Check out this website http://www.instructables.com/ and type in vacuum forming and there is information on how other people have done it. Hope this helps

[94SubieSVX]

Check out this website http://www.instructables.com/ and type in vacuum forming and there is information on how other people have done it. Hope this helps


It did help, alot actually.

After the last attempt at forming with the same thickness lexan, I've come to the conclusion that I need thinner lexan. And on the website "instructables" there was a link to www.usplastic.com (http://www.usplastic.com) which has thinner lexan, and for cheaper than what I'm paying now also.

Even though everybody was generally saying not to heat it up above 300degrees, one of the descriptions said that lexan forming temp. is around 375 degrees. That's the temp that it actually started to get stretchy enough to mold. The only thing that is setting me back is that everytime I mold it at that temp the bubbles start to gather in the lexan.

Hopefully with the thinner lexan, I can soften it up at a lower temp, and also avoid getting the bubbles in it.

The thickness I have now is .093". I was looking at getting either .060" or .050". I was thinking I'll go with the .060" because it's not too thin or thick. Though Smallcar uses .090".

[superru]

So whats the update?!! :D anything new?

[94SubieSVX]

Nothin yet, X-mas was pretty hectic. I'm gonna be ordering thinner lexan soon though.

[SVXRide]

The thickness I have now is .093". I was looking at getting either .060" or .050". I was thinking I'll go with the .060" because it's not too thin or thick, it's just right.


Ah, the "Three Bears" approach to lexan selection!;):lol:
-Bill

[Hocrest]

Bill, I was thinking about this over the weekend... Back when I worked in the medical business, for a time we supplied custom molded supports and back braces. These had plastic inserts that we would heat and mold to the patient then slip them into the cloth covers.

To heat them up we used an electric griddle like this;
http://cdn.overstock.com/images/products/3/L10265496.jpg

The nice thing about it was that you it had a temperature on the dial that you could set it to, and know that the plastic would get to that temperature and not go over.

Not sure if this info is helpful??? Just a thought I wanted to pass on.

[94SubieSVX]

Hmmm...an electric griddle. That sounds like it could work.

Thanks Dave, I'll have to search for mine :rolleyes:

[SubaSteevo]

Hmmm...an electric griddle. That sounds like it could work.

Thanks Dave, I'll have to search for mine :rolleyes:

And if it doesn't work then you can make yourself some eggs!

[ridered777]

Anything new? ;)

We're all anxiously waiting...:cool:

[94SubieSVX]

Anything new? ;)

We're all anxiously waiting...:cool:


Unfortunately no,:o. But I'm gonna start again as soon as I get around to buy more lexan:rolleyes:.


I reallllly need to finish these. Because my headlights look like doo doo, and I wanna get started on my angel eyes when I finally chop the stockers up.

[YourConfused]

No angel eyes please.

[SilverSpear]

No angel eyes please.

X 2

:o:o:o:o:o

[94SubieSVX]

No angel eyes please.

X 2

:o:o:o:o:o


Well I have an idea of what I want to do in my head. But if I don't like it when I do them, then they're gonna come out.

[ridered777]

Unfortunately no,:o. But I'm gonna start again as soon as I get around to buy more lexan:rolleyes:.


I reallllly need to finish these. Because my headlights look like doo doo, and I wanna get started on my angel eyes when I finally chop the stockers up.

Ditto. ;). Though I might not be doing the angel eyes, I haven't really decided yet.

[Johnybeas]

I wanna replace my fog lights with angels :) with the clears cause with the clear they just become driving lights... so why not make them pretty....

[It's Just Eric]

bizzump, get theese suckers done

[sicksubie]

ditto that.......

[TomsSVX]

we need the headlights back, thats why:o

Tom

[94SubieSVX]

we need the headlights back, thats why:o

Tom


Indian Givers!!!!

jk:lol:...I know I really should stop being lazy and finish these.:rolleyes:


In fact, I think I'll go and make the other mold since I don't have work tonight.

[94SubieSVX]

I got the negative mold done, just need to pop the headlight out and make the positive so I can use it for the forming.

Ordering more lexan tonight. Enough to make a few sets.


...I'm starting to get a good feeling that these will be done pretty soon:D

[Johnybeas]

sweet i wanna see um....

[94SubieSVX]

All the pics I had posted earlier in the thread got moved to another folder so now they won't display.

Here's the link to the album on Photobucket (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/billwomack/Clear%20Headlights/).

[94SubieSVX]

I got the new lexan the other day, and got to cut a few pieces to size. The oven currently is being used so I have to wait to get to mold:rolleyes::)

[Sir. Nate]

what ever happened with this project?

[Mike621]

Bill parked his SVX after the front differential went and bought a Mustang.:confused:

[94SubieSVX]

Bill parked his SVX after the front differential went and bought a Cobra.:confused:

It's a cobra dangit lol


But yeah I'm waiting to get enough money to fix the SVX. If I get to drive it again maybe I'll get the SVX bug again and finish up the lights.

[TomsSVX]

It's a cobra dangit lol

Its a mustang.... just because there is a snake on it doesn't make you cool!:lol: Just don't crash it into a wall like some :tard: did at the track today:rolleyes:

Tom

[94SubieSVX]

Its a mustang.... just because there is a snake on it doesn't make you cool!:lol: Just don't crash it into a wall like some :tard: did at the track today:rolleyes:

Tom


Lol, yeah my buddy was there in a Z28 he told me there were a decent amount of SVX there. I would've came but I felt like crap all day.

[TomsSVX]

Lol, yeah my buddy was there in a Z28 he told me there were a decent amount of SVX there. I would've came but I felt like crap all day.

Yea friggin asshat spun all the way off the line lost it going into 2nd still spinning tires and wrecked it at about 600' off the line and smashed into the wall... It was a STOCK GT on street tires... you gotta be an idiot to do that:rolleyes:

I figured get one last race day in @ the end of the season... it was fun

Tom

[Mike621]

I would've came but I had to stop at every gas station on the way and someone sneezed on the road and I broke loose pulling in into the gas station... something something something...


Bill, fixed your post. :p


Word, words, wording...

[94SubieSVX]

Yea friggin asshat spun all the way off the line lost it going into 2nd still spinning tires and wrecked it at about 600' off the line and smashed into the wall... It was a STOCK GT on street tires... you gotta be an idiot to do that:rolleyes:

I figured get one last race day in @ the end of the season... it was fun

Tom

Wowww, that kid can't drive. I really wanted to go again before everything closed up but oh well, gotta wait til spring I guess.

[94SubieSVX]

Bill, fixed your post. :p


Word, words, wording...


Hahahaa, I actually dont get that bad of mileage. Average 17mpg every fillup. 22mpg if it's all highway crusin at 80.

[Tim]

Hahahaa, I actually dont get that bad of mileage. Average 17mpg every fillup. 22mpg if it's all highway crusin at 80.

You're still alive? I thought you fell off the face of the earth since you got the running horse. :D

[94SubieSVX]

You're still alive? I thought you fell off the face of the earth since you got the running horse. :D

Haha yeah fortunately I'm still here...I can't wait for Reading X though I'm definately going:D...too many crazy times last year for me to miss the tenth.