reversed jumper cables now it wont start

[rbtlen]

My battery went dead so when I went to jumpstart my car I screwed up and hooked it up backwards. I have replaced the fusible link, and checked all the fuses. I installed a new battery and installed it correctly but it still won't start. All the dash lights come on as normal but the car won't turn over. What should I look at next?

[NikFu S.]

What did you use to jump? Another vehicle? Portable charger? Is it ok or dead too?

[techy101]

Isn't the system Diode protected???

[ensteele]

I would check the major fuses or Fuse Link. Good luck and let us know what you find out. :o :o

[NikFu S.]

Don't just check to see if any are broken, check to see if any have melted or burned, and check they are the correct amperage.

[Trevor]

My battery went dead so when I went to jumpstart my car I screwed up and hooked it up backwards. I have replaced the fusible link, and checked all the fuses. I installed a new battery and installed it correctly but it still won't start. All the dash lights come on as normal but the car won't turn over. What should I look at next?

!. Exactly what did you do? Connect the battery of another car across yours, but with it connected positive to your car negative and negative to positive? 2. Did the dead battery remain connected during the jump start? 3. Was the fusible link replaced because as a result of the jump start, it was blown/melted?

If the fuse link opened as a result of you applying voltage at reversed polarity, this would indicate that something in line past the link, went solidly to ground. However as the dash lights work OK, it would appear that the short has cleared and was short lived. Alternatively that the short was on an independent circuit. If so and it remains, there should be another blown fuse 4. Exactly what does and does not now work within the complete electrical system?

You say that the car won't turn over. 5. Are you sure that the new battery is fully charged and properly connected. If you turn on the head lights while trying to start the car, do the lights stay reasonably bright, thus indicating a good battery and connections?

These are valid questions which can assist with a positive diagnosis.

P.S. Meantime don't panic and expect the very worst as may be suggested.

[TomsSVX]

I did something similar a couple years ago... I melted my entire underhood fuse box.... Pain in the ass to troubleshoot when the whole thing is melted together inside... Take a peak at yours

Tom

[rbtlen]

!. Exactly what did you do? Connect the battery of another car across yours, but with it connected positive to your car negative and negative to positive? 2. Did the dead battery remain connected during the jump start? 3. Was the fusible link replaced because as a result of the jump start, it was blown/melted?

If the fuse link opened as a result of you applying voltage at reversed polarity, this would indicate that something in line past the link, went solidly to ground. However as the dash lights work OK, it would appear that the short has cleared and was short lived. Alternatively that the short was on an independent circuit. If so and it remains, there should be another blown fuse 4. Exactly what does and does not now work within the complete electrical system?

You say that the car won't turn over. 5. Are you sure that the new battery is fully charged and properly connected. If you turn on the head lights while trying to start the car, do the lights stay reasonably bright, thus indicating a good battery and connections?

These are valid questions which can assist with a positive diagnosis.

P.S. Meantime don't panic and expect the very worst as may be suggested.


I use another battery to jump start. I hooked jump battery pos. to dead battery negative and jump battery neg. to jump battery pos. I have went through the underhood fuse box and checked each side of each fuse and installes a new (subaru) fuseable link. I have checked each side of the in car fuse panel and replaced any fuses that where blown. I installed a brand new battery and it is known good. All the accesories work such as radio, headlights, power windows.

[SVXRide]

Okay, so now you need to provide more details regarding what you mean by "it won't start". Is the starter solenoid "clicking"? Do you hear the fuel pump running when you turn the key to On? (I'm assuming it still won't turn over)
-Bill

[Trevor]

I hope I am correct in now assuming that the fuse link was blown due to the mishap, as were other fuses. Can you identify the fuses which you had to replace? This could help a lot.

[rbtlen]

Okay, so now you need to provide more details regarding what you mean by "it won't start". Is the starter solenoid "clicking"? Do you hear the fuel pump running when you turn the key to On? (I'm assuming it still won't turn over)
-Bill


Fuel pump is coming on, but there is no solenoid "clicking".

[SVXRide]

Fuel pump is coming on, but there is no solenoid "clicking".

Okay, so you should start looking at the starting circuit, as you're not getting any "juice" to the starter solenoid. Get a voltmeter and check to see that you're getting 12V at the starter.
-Bill

[Trevor]

I have been trying to ascertain exactly what has happened, but you have been reluctant to answer my specific questions. If you will do so we can be much further ahead with a diagnosis.

The start circuit could not have been affected unless you tried to start the car with the extra battery/car, wrongly connected. This is indeed very likely, but please confirm.

The start circuit is protected by the fusible link as well as fuse SBF 4, which is one of three 45 amp fuses located in the main fuse box. In particular, check this 45 amp fuse and advise what you find.

It is possible that high current, as has been positively indicated as a result of the fusible link melting, has caused damage to the ignition switch start contacts, given that these have been proven to be vulnerable. However it is difficult to accept that this should be the case, as the solenoid winding is not polarity sensitive.

The alternator is involved as a parallel item within the circuit and the included diode network could well be the culprit. If SBF 4 is intact, this will be a likely scenario and you should look for burnt out white coded wiring linking the alternator with the main fuse box.

[rbtlen]

I have been trying to ascertain exactly what has happened, but you have been reluctant to answer my specific questions. If you will do so we can be much further ahead with a diagnosis.

The start circuit could not have been affected unless you tried to start the car with the extra battery/car, wrongly connected. This is indeed very likely, but please confirm.

The start circuit is protected by the fusible link as well as fuse SBF 4, which is one of three 45 amp fuses located in the main fuse box. In particular, check this 45 amp fuse and advise what you find.

It is possible that high current, as has been positively indicated as a result of the fusible link melting, has caused damage to the ignition switch start contacts, given that these have been proven to be vulnerable. However it is difficult to accept that this should be the case, as the solenoid winding is not polarity sensitive.

The alternator is involved as a parallel item within the circuit and the included diode network could well be the culprit. If SBF 4 is intact, this will be a likely scenario and you should look for burnt out white coded wiring linking the alternator with the main fuse box.

I am not sure what questions I havent answered.

I did not try and start the car. I hooked up the jumper cables and smelled the fusible link burning. I will double check again all the fuses

[Trevor]

I am not sure what questions I havent answered.

I did not try and start the car. I hooked up the jumper cables and smelled the fusible link burning. I will double check again all the fuses

The questions were numbered for easy reference. :confused:

What you now state is the most important information you have provided to date. Please now check fuse SFB 4 as requested and advise.

The alternator wiring involves a link in the suspect starting circuit and is very likely to have been burnt out. As advised above, according to the manuals a white coded wire is involved. If burnt out this would break the starter circuit.

Check all alternator wiring and connectors for signs of damage. If nothing is visible, a continuity test is the next step.

[rbtlen]

The questions were numbered for easy reference. :confused:

What you now state is the most important information you have provided to date. Please now check fuse SFB 4 as requested and advise.

The alternator wiring involves a link in the suspect starting circuit and is very likely to have been burnt out. As advised above, according to the manuals a white coded wire is involved. If burnt out this would break the starter circuit.

Check all alternator wiring and connectors for signs of damage. If nothing is visible, a continuity test is the next step.

Ok here is the latest update

1. the fuse under the hood that blew was the clock fuse which was possibly blown when I had the key on and was checking for power and hit ground and pos at the same time on the cig. lighter

2. the fuse under the dash that was blown was an abs fuse which I have had an abs light on so it could be related to that ... or maybe not.

3. the sfb4 fuse is fine

4. I have power on the main white wire on the alt.

5. I don't have power on the start wire on the starter sol. when the key is turned to the start position. I can take a wire and run it from the pos. term on the battery to the start sol. and get the car to start ( key is in the run position)

6. There is power into the ign. switch and then power out of the switch on the run position and then when trying to start the car there is power coming out of the switch on the black/yellow wire(start pos.)

I am also unsure of where the black/yellow wire coming from the ignition switch runs to.

[Trevor]

Excellent investigative work and advice.

There is some confusion regarding wire colour codes.

The manual I have shows black/yellow as the input to the ignition switch from fuse SBF 4, but this could well be a misprint as the code changes to black/blue at the fuse box.

My manual shows the starter output wire to be black/white and this runs to the inhibitor switch, which prevents the car from being started unless it is in “Park”. From there the circuit continues from the inhibitor switch, to the starter solenoid as a black/yellow wire, therefore adding to the possibility of a misprint.

My guess is that the manual is incorrect, but you should make sure that your testing is accurate in respect of the correct wire providing voltage output, when the start position is selected. If this is indeed black/yellow, it will surely go to the inhibit switch.

The obvious but rather stupid question is, was/is the gear selector in the correct position when you are trying to operate the starter? :) :confused:

What you have now reported is very strange and does not logically relate to the reversed battery episode and makes the suspect item the inhibit switch.

[rbtlen]

Excellent investigative work and advice.

There is some confusion regarding wire colour codes.

The manual I have shows black/yellow as the input to the ignition switch from fuse SBF 4, but this could well be a misprint as the code changes to black/blue at the fuse box.

My manual shows the starter output wire to be black/white and this runs to the inhibitor switch, which prevents the car from being started unless it is in “Park”. From there the circuit continues from the inhibitor switch, to the starter solenoid as a black/yellow wire, therefore adding to the possibility of a misprint.

My guess is that the manual is incorrect, but you should make sure that your testing is accurate in respect of the correct wire providing voltage output, when the start position is selected. If this is indeed black/yellow, it will surely go to the inhibit switch.

The obvious but rather stupid question is, was/is the gear selector in the correct position when you are trying to operate the starter? :) :confused:

What you have now reported is very strange and does not logically relate to the reversed battery episode and makes the suspect item the inhibit switch.


I will double check the colors as it is a little difficult to tell colors sometimes when it has grease on it and its old. I do know that the lockout switch that prevents you from moving the shifter out of part has never worked so I have to use the bypass next to the shifter. I have tried to start the car in neutral but that didn't work eather.

I will check the colors again. if I could trace the wires better I could narrow things down quicker but its tight under the dash. I need to find a schamatic to go by. thanks for all you input. I will update you hopefully on thursday.

[Trevor]

I will double check the colors as it is a little difficult to tell colors sometimes when it has grease on it and its old. I do know that the lockout switch that prevents you from moving the shifter out of part has never worked so I have to use the bypass next to the shifter. I have tried to start the car in neutral but that didn't work eather.

I will check the colors again. if I could trace the wires better I could narrow things down quicker but its tight under the dash. I need to find a schamatic to go by. thanks for all you input. I will update you hopefully on thursday.

Your thanks are sincerely appreciated.

Mind your head under the dash, better you than me. :D

I would be inclined to first investigate the inhibitor switch and its linkage, on the side of the transmission. This is a likely bet, even though things happened at the same time as the battery episode. As a matter of parallel coincidence, the impossible is often possible in respect of things electrical. Been there many times. :eek:

[techy101]

Is there a relay for the starter? I would imagine so, and if there is, it would be worth checking.