Hood and Trunk Strut Redo Redux

[LetItSnow]

WATCH THIS SPACE!

I'll update this thread with the hood and trunk strut rebuilds, using aftermarket bits. Everything you need to know. Every cut, every part, every spec.

Complete: Everything is installed! Next: The How-To!

Experiment results so far:

* The 90# struts make a much better replacement up front than the 120# ones; they still lift the hood themselves, but they're definitely more civilized when closing.

* The measurements made in the original hood strut How To are short about an inch and a half. Thanks to John for the correction.

* With both 80# struts installed in the trunk, it won't pop it up, and it won't let it float down, so keep the kids' fingers out, but it does move in a much more friendly fashion. You still have to control its speed, but it's with a lot less effort. For note: My trunk has the wing.

* The trunk strut mod is currently facing a problem that was pointed out to me. Hood struts are still super good, though.

Bill of Materials (in progress):

I got these from ASRaymond (https://www.asraymond.com/standard-gas-struts/GSNI244989):

Qty P/N Item Price Extended

2 GSNI225090 Gas Spring - Black Nitride (hood strut) $16.19 $32.38
2 GSNI515080 Gas Spring - Black Nitride (trunk strut) $14.13 $28.26
2 BS1002 Ball Stud $ 1.02 $ 2.04
6 BS11208 Ball Stud $ 1.39 $ 8.34
Shipping $13ish $13ish
$84.02

You'll also need:

(6) 1/4-20 nuts, stainless steel, which should cost about $2.
(2) washers - I used 6mm, with the smallest OD I could find. About $1.00
Paint for the brackets, if you're the type that doesn't care for exposed metal

Get some cutoff wheels for the Dremel, too!
.

[processengr]

.
Hi,
I have done the hood strut mod, originated by LetItSnow. Read 1st thread (NOT the trunk mod) and it is easy to do and works excellent for about $50.00

Slightly modified BOM
Qty P/N Item Price Extended
2 GSNI225090 Gas Spring - Black Nitride (hood strut) $16.54 $33.08
4 BS1002 Ball Stud (hood strut and base) $ 1.02 each $ 4.08
2 M8 Nuts $ ~.75 each. $1.50 a pair

Shipping $13.00 approx.
~$50.00

EDIT:
The 10mm ball stud (BS1002) with 8mm shank fits the oversize hole in bracket with reused plastic bushing better than the original stud with 1/4-20 shank.
,

[Wikedjuggalo]

Never noticed that sticker before, if going over 150 MPH increase tire pressure to 40 psi :O 150 is damn fast!

[Mike621]

Is there a way to do this without tapping or drilling? I don't have those tools at my disposal :( and my hood struts are blown completely from the car sitting with the hood down for a year.

[LetItSnow]

Wow, a lot has happened since Mike's post above - he's had my strut mod on for a while now!

I don't know exactly where my completed writeup went, but this picture tells the story. (EDIT, it's over <here (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=513042&postcount=10)>.) You essentially split the strut's bottom bracket and keep just the part that mounts to the body. The hole in the bracket is rather large, so placing a washer inside it allows a ball stud to hold in place. No tapping, no place for wobbly bits, no grabbing the strut rod with vice grips, and no obstructions if you choose to blast/sand/paint. There's not much to it.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w187/LetItSnow_photos/SVX/projects/struts_hood/bottom.jpg

I know this is quite a bump, but the thread was linked to today, so I figured I'd finish my part!

[svxcess]

Please post those actual SPD part numbers for the struts again, along with the ball studs.


Wow, a lot has happened since Mike's post above - he's had my strut mod on for a while now!

I don't know exactly where my completed writeup went, but this picture tells the story. (EDIT, it's over <here (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=513042&postcount=10)>.) You essentially split the strut's bottom bracket and keep just the part that mounts to the body. The hole in the bracket is rather large, so placing a washer inside it allows a ball stud to hold in place. No tapping, no place for wobbly bits, no grabbing the strut rod with vice grips, and no obstructions if you choose to blast/sand/paint. There's not much to it.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w187/LetItSnow_photos/SVX/projects/struts_hood/bottom.jpg

I know this is quite a bump, but the thread was linked to today, so I figured I'd finish my part!

[svxcess]

.
I redid my hood struts today using LetItSnow's method and it works better than my original modification.

I found there is an easier way to do this. Just drill out the rivet that holds the bracket together and discard the rivet.

Once the two pieces of the bracket separate, you will find a small nylon bushing that fits perfectly into the hole in the bracket where the ball stud attaches.


http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14263&stc=1&d=1276573963

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14264&stc=1&d=1276574007

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14265&stc=1&d=1276574007


Insert the bushing into the hole from the inside of the bracket (closest to the engine). It fills the hole perfectly, fits flush and allows you to use the same M8 x 1.25 ball stud that is used on the hood.

Insert the ball stud through the bracket hole and bushing (with the ball end pointing toward the fender) and secure with a M8 x 1.25 nut.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14266&d=1276574004

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14267&stc=1&d=1276574075


All you need is listed below. No trimming, cutting. Truly plug and play.

[2] M8 x 1.25 nuts
[2] nylon bushings

[4] BS-1002 ball studs
[2] GSNI-2250-90 struts.


AS Raymond Gas Springs Page (https://www.asraymond.com/standard-gas-struts.html)

Toll-free Phone: 1-800-720-2633

.

[svxcess]

.
There is an additional update to the gas strut numbers. I received this information from Ed Del Monte "ZMan". He has been in direct contact with tech support at SPD and found out the following information.

There is another strut that can be used in our hood applications that allow our hoods to open even further. It is a new addition to their current lineup.

The other strut number is SPD GSNI- 2449-89

As you can see by the specs, it is rated at 89.9 lbs. force, instead of 90.0.

The rod diameter, tube diameter and price remain the same, but the extended length is .6 inches longer, the compressed length is about .36 inches longer and the stroke is about .37 inches longer.

He installed them on his car and has confirmed that they fit without any issues and the hood opens appreciably higher than the 2250-90 struts in this original modification.

We will get exact measurement differences in opening height between these
two struts, as well as comparing them to the stock units, and post those numbers.

Thanks to ZMan for stumbling upon this.

......http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14385&stc=1&d=1279431961

http://www.asraymond.com/catalog.html?cid=ha-standard&id=GSNI244989 (http://www.asraymond.com/catalog.html?cid=ha-standard&id=GSNI244989)

800.872.7732


.

[svxcess]

.
Here are the measurements of the hood openings for the various struts.

ZMan provided the measurements from both of his SVXs, one with original OEM struts and one with the newer 2449-89. I have the 2250-90 struts on my polo for measurement.

My 2250-90 struts open 1" less than stock.
The 2249-89 struts open 1.5" more than stock

The SPD struts go for $32.38 a pair; the OEM struts are $150.72 a pair from subaruparts. List is $197.80 a pair :eek:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14386&stc=1&d=1279475474



The OEM struts measure 18.5" from center of ball on hood to pivot point on the strut bracket (which is where the new struts attach)

.

[ensteele]

John - now it is time to do the same thing with the trunk struts. :) :rolleyes: :lol:

[svxcess]

These struts any different then the offerings from a local auto store? I picked some up that were very close in length. Only problem I anticipate is strength. Do they generally carry struts weaker than what our hoods call for?

SPD manufactures thier own units and have good quality control. It is not always easy to discern where aftermarket hood struts found at NAPA, Advance Auto and AutoZone are manufactured.

We have tried many types of alternative struts fron NAPA, etc. Finding the right length (both compressed and extended) and the proper pressure is not easy.

What is the pressure rating of your struts? 90 lbs is an reasonable number; fairly stiff in the warmer months and a little easier in the winter. Anything with less pressure will have a harder time in the winter after a while

110-120lbs is too strong and could cause problems.

I also found that the SPD struts, at $16.19 each, are cheaper than auto store units.

.

[icingdeath88]

John - now it is time to do the same thing with the trunk struts. :) :rolleyes: :lol:

+1, Trunk struts seem kinda urgent, at least to me. Gotta stop the "Don't slam the *thud* trunk...".

[svxcess]

+1, Trunk struts seem kinda urgent, at least to me. Gotta stop the "Don't slam the *thud* trunk...".

You cannot improve upon the factory trunk struts. They are the only design that allows the trunklid to open a full 90°. With every other strut, the trunk does not open fully.

Gsodonis did the mod using Strong Arm gas charged lstruts #4468, but they don't open as far as OEM.

......http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14387&stc=1&d=1279567089

His writeup can be found HERE (http://www.scribd.com/doc/10282223/How-to-SVX-Hatch-Struts)




The OEM trunk struts are a lot cheaper than the OEM hood struts, about $50.00 each
57521PA000 RH
57521PA010 LH

.

[SilverSpear]

.

Here are the measurements of the hood openings for the various struts.

ZMan provided the measurements from both of his SVXs, one with original OEM struts and one with the newer 2449-89. I have the 2250-90 struts on my polo for measurement.

My 2250-90 struts open 1" less than stock.
The 2249-89 struts open 1.5" more than stock

The SPD struts go for $32.38 a pair; the OEM struts are $150.72 a pair from subaruparts. List is $197.80 a pair :eek:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14386&stc=1&d=1279475474



Danny, the OEM struts measure 18.5" from center of ball on hood to pivot point on the strut bracket (which is where the new struts attach)


.


Amazing presentation skills :cool:
Thanks John :)

[svxcess]

.

Here is a POSSIBLE trunk strut replacement (also from SPD)

First the specs of the OEM trunk struts.

From pivot to pivot, the stock trunk struts have a compressed length of 9.25" and an extended length of 13.625"


The Strong Arm 4468 trunk struts used Gsodonis's writeup have a compressed length of 8.9", but an extended length of only 13.1" (which is shorter than stock and the reason why the trunk does not open fully)


SPD has a strut GSNI-4340-78. This strut has a compressed length of 8.81" (similar to the Strong Arm) BUT a longer extended length of 14.81".

This should allow the trunk to open slightly past 90° until stopped by the hinge. You could drill the ball stud mounting hole on the bottom bracket further back to shorten the throw. This strut has a pressure rating of 79 lbs.

Should be worth investigating...


.

[SilverSpear]

.

Here is a POSSIBLE trunk strut replacement (also from SPD)

First the specs of the OEM trunk struts.

From pivot to pivot, the stock trunk struts have a compressed length of 9.25" and an extended length of 13.625"


The Strong Arm 4468 trunk struts used Gsodonis's writeup have a compressed length of 8.9", but an extended length of only 13.1" (which is shorter than stock and the reason why the trunk does not open fully)


SPD has a strut GSNI-4340-78. This strut has a compressed length of 8.81" (similar to the Strong Arm) BUT a longer extended length of 14.81".

This should allow the trunk to open slightly past 90° until stopped by the hinge. You could drill the ball stud mounting hole on the bottom bracket further back to shorten the throw. This strut has a pressure rating of 79 lbs.

Should be worth investigating...


.

Rock Auto's website:

- SACHS Part # SG359017 Ball Socket End Fittings: 14" Ext. 9" Compr. Length $13.86 Each

- SACHS Part # SG359005 Ball Socket End Fittings: 14" Ext. 9" Compr. Length $11.92

- SACHS Part # SG359009 Ball Socket End Fittings: 14" Ext. 9" Compr. Length $13.85

- StrongArm 4529: 13.82" extended length, 9.10" compressed length 90 lb. load

- Rhinopac 4529: 13.82" extended length, 9.10" compressed length $11.11 Each

- MONROE Part # 901601: 13.875 extended, 9" compressed $15.24 Each

- ACDelco 510640 and 510638. No information available...

- Tuff Support 610225. No info available.

In sum, we should be looking for 1993~2000 Camaro trunk supports.

Hmmm... I think this is a home run ;)

[ZMan]

Rock Auto's website:

- SACHS Part # SG359017 Ball Socket End Fittings: 14" Ext. 9" Compr. Length $13.86 Each

- SACHS Part # SG359005 Ball Socket End Fittings: 14" Ext. 9" Compr. Length $11.92

- SACHS Part # SG359009 Ball Socket End Fittings: 14" Ext. 9" Compr. Length $13.85

- StrongArm 4529: 13.82" extended length, 9.10" compressed length 90 lb. load

- Rhinopac 4529: 13.82" extended length, 9.10" compressed length $11.11 Each

- MONROE Part # 901601: 13.875 extended, 9" compressed $15.24 Each

- ACDelco 510640 and 510638. No information available...

- Tuff Support 610225. No info available.

In sum, we should be looking for 1993~2000 Camaro trunk supports.

Hmmm... I think this is a home run ;)

What are the pound rating on those listed?
As far as the ones listed with no info available, not really very useful.

[SilverSpear]

What are the pound rating on those listed?
As far as the ones listed with no info available, not really very useful.

Well I was working on the lengths of those, I found the closest possible.

Only Strongarm and Rhinopac 4529 have their rating listed (assume it is the same strut with a different name). 90 lbs is more than enough for the SVX especially that the OEMs as I understand are around 80.

Anyone care to push those number further? :rolleyes:

[kinz]

Got an update on the trunk struts. Installed one today. Have to find ind some parts for the second that I missplaced. Things to note.

1) The install will be a bit tricky if you’re not strong. Work smart not hard. Snap strut on bottom first! If your having difficulty compressing strut for trunk ball stud hold the strut against the protrusion above the ball stud. Slowly compress the strut by closing trunk halfway. Hold strut in compressed state. Open trunk and try to snap it in. Got it my second try.

2) The ball studs outlined for the hood struts are too thick in diameter thread to fit in stock brackets. I used 6mm that I ordered a while back. You can use the 8mm ones but you would need to drill out the mounting hole.

3) The stock brackets are easily removed from the stock struts by drilling out the rivet.
With one trunk strut installed, the trunk will stay up on level ground but will fall closed once the trunk angle is less than 90 degrees. I believe that once I get the second strut on trunk will be good to go.

The hood struts I got from local auto store are not strong enough and I will need to order ones from the hood writeup.
.

[LetItSnow]

2) The ballstuds outlined for the hood struts are too thick diameter thread to fit in stock brackets. I used 6mm that I ordered a while back. You can use the 8mm ones but you would need to drill out the mounting hole.
I'm interested - which hole are you drilling?

[kinz]

Does the trunk now open even a little more than 90 degrees?

Too soon to tell. It will open as far as oem. I still have 1 oem strut on. Seeing as how I had to compress strut to install, it will open further if the trunk hinge allows (I haven't really looked at hinge ability to open further). I should finish tomorrow. I will need to drill the hole bigger to fit the ballstuds that are same as hood install. I seem to of lost one of ones I had with smaller diameter thread size. Will have some pics upon finished product.

[kinz]

.
Ran into a problem with the ball studs left over from the hood writeup. The threaded portion was too long so the bracket couldn't mount on the trunk lid. It was causing an issue with the hinge and not letting it close. I will either try a hack saw or some way to make it shorter. The ball studs I got from NAPA work perfectly on the trunk. Won't be able to get a part number until I'm on that side of town. Weekend maybe.

The trunk lid bracket I drilled out a larger hole to accommodate the ballstud from spd.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x66/timsmite/bbcf8923.jpg


The two ball studs. Left is from NAPA. Ball is same size as the SPD one (10mm), but thread diameter is 6mm. Right is the SPD stud used in the hood install. 10mm ball and 8mm thread diameter.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x66/timsmite/bdd26df0.jpg


Looks like trunk won't open further by any consideral amount if any due to hinge design.
.

[ZMan]

I have had both struts off my trunk lid and it will open a little more before it contacts the hinge.

You can cut the ball studs fairly easy with a hack saw.

I usually put a nut on the threads, then put the threaded end i want to cut off in a vise, cut it, then dress any sharp edges with a file, then unscrew the nut to clean the threads.

[Cam]

I usually put a nut on the threads, then put the threaded end i want to cut off in a vise, cut it, then dress any sharp edges with a file, then unscrew the nut to clean the threads.

+1 Like Zman said, make sure there is a nut on first. Makes life a whole lot easier.

[kinz]

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x66/timsmite/c303217a.jpg
Bracket holding SPD ball stud I had to cut.

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x66/timsmite/037001ec.jpg
Trunk lid open after install. Opens more than 90 degrees.

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x66/timsmite/cc67a26e.jpg
Lower bracket holding NAPA ball stud. No alterations needed.

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x66/timsmite/8a45bec6.jpg
The finished product. Still needs a good cleaning.

Used a rotozip with metal cutoff disk to trim the SPD stud. Went all the way to the nut which I needed to for proper fitment. Ended up taking off around a quarter inch.
SPD ball studs will work but will require bracket and stud alteration.
.

[ZMan]

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x66/timsmite/c303217a.jpg
Bracket holding SPD ball stud I had to cut.

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x66/timsmite/037001ec.jpg
Trunk lid open after install. Opens more than 90 degrees.

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x66/timsmite/cc67a26e.jpg
Lower bracket holding NAPA ball stud. No alterations needed.

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x66/timsmite/8a45bec6.jpg
The finished product. Still needs a good cleaning.

Used a rotozip with metal cutoff disk to trim the SPD stud. Went all the way to the nut which I needed to for proper fitment. Ended up taking off around a quarter inch.
SPD ball studs will work but will require bracket and stud alteration.
.

Thanks for the pix and info.

.

[svxcess]

.
Hood strut simplified installation and updated links for parts

All the parts needed are listed below. No trimming, cutting, just a bit of drilling. Truly plug and play

[2] GSNI-22449-89 HOOD struts. (ASRaymond) (http://www.asraymond.com/catalog.html?cid=ha-standard&id=GSNI244989)

[2] M8 x 1.25 nuts.(available locally)

[2] nylon bushings (from original struts)

[4] 10MM M8x1.25 ball studs . (Amazon) (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007L7A384/ref=psdc_15731171_t1_B007L7A9Z6).Also elsewhere and also known as BS1002



INSTRUCTIONS CAN BE FOUND HERE (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=38819&highlight=Redux&page=2)

Begin reading my posts starting with #7


HOW TO DRILL OUT RIVETS CAN BE FOUND HERE (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=737088&postcount=27)



Basically, prop the hood up with a piece of wood so it stays at opened height.


Using a wrench, unbolt the nut on the end of the ball stud where it is attached to the hood


Unbolt the 2 bolts holding the struts to the fender.


Drill out rivets on the bracket. when it comes apart, save the bracket and nylon spacer. The rest is junk and can be discarded.


Follow the rest of the directions.


Assemble the new ball stud into the original bracket (with spacer) It is easier to attach the strut to the fender bracket (with new ball and nut already attached) BEFORE you bolt it onto the fender. It will make sense when you look at the photos. Do not tighten completely


Screw in new ball stud into the hood.


Clip on the hood strut at onto the ball in the hood.


Tighten everything



REAR TRUNK STRUTS (Available at Amazon) https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Lift-Supports-without-brackets/dp/B007MWS3BM

.

[jes]

I was having trouble using ASRaymond's to buy parts online, so I found alternate solution, using Stabilus parts. These were easier for me to find, even at my local auto parts store. :D

2 ea: Stabilus SG359033 Lift Support
2 ea: Stabilus SG900001 Hardware kit (ball studs)


Follow directions above (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=743264&postcount=27) for installation.

[ShiuludeSVX]

I was having trouble using ASRaymond's to buy parts online, so I found alternate solution, using Stabilus parts. These were easier for me to find, even at my local auto parts store. :D

2 ea: Stabilus SG359033 Lift Support
2 ea: Stabilus SG900001 Hardware kit (ball studs)


Follow directions above (http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showpost.php?p=743264&postcount=27) for installation.

Great, but what I need more is a refix for the Trunk Struts.