View Full Version : spark plugs/gap
catshot
03-12-2007, 12:42 PM
What's the preferred spark plug mfgr and gap setting? '96 lsi
immortal_suby
03-12-2007, 12:47 PM
NGK double platinums (OEM) - they will come pre-gapped.
catshot
03-12-2007, 01:43 PM
Thanks I-suby. What is the NGK pn?
What makes NGK better than any other plug? They'e like $10/plug aren't they? Do they fire hotter or last longer? I'd like to know because I'm planning on replacing my plugs in the near future.
Hey Tom,
Let me know how the plug change goes. I hear that it's a bear. You have to be double jointed and have your eyes crossed while reaching down the left side with your right arm...
Greg
catshot
03-12-2007, 02:02 PM
Will do Greg. I'm a little dyslexic so maybe I don't have to cross my eyes!
immortal_suby
03-12-2007, 02:04 PM
ngk; pfr6b-11
subaru part # 22401AA370
The double platinum is supposed to last 100k miles. When you go through the trouble to change them you will know why you got the spark plugs that last another 100k miles ;)
catshot
03-12-2007, 02:15 PM
Now that I have the plugs under control ... suggestions on a supplier for the knock sensors and wire/module assemblies? My son's 96 is throwin' codes P0325 (knock sensor 1, circuit malfunction, bank 1 or 1 sensor) and P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire detected).
immortal_suby
03-12-2007, 02:23 PM
subaruparts.com has been good to me, I'd go with them for knock sensors.
For the plug module (I assume you mean the coil on plug) I'd try to get one used on here or ebay - budfreak can probably get you what you need. They are $76 each brand new.
Before you replace a coil though pull it out and check if the boot that goes around the plug is damaged. If it is it could cause a misfire code.
Budfreak
03-12-2007, 03:11 PM
What's the preferred spark plug mfgr and gap setting? '96 lsi
NGK V power platinums. Max factory gap is .044, But I run mine a little wider than that.:)
catshot
03-12-2007, 03:12 PM
Thanks Suby. I get real cautious regarding used electrical devices. So many things could be bad and it's buyer beware. If only 1 cylinder is throwin' a miss I would probably get new to be safe.
Is it possible that the knock sensor trippin' would kick out a cylinder misfire? .. or is it more likely that the cylinder miss is trippin' the knock sensor! What came first .. the chicken or the egg!
Trevor
03-12-2007, 04:12 PM
NGK V power platinums. Max factory gap is .044, But I run mine a little wider than that.:)
The OEM specified spark plug gap is 0.039 - 0.043 inch. It will be unwise to run with an increased gap, as this will result in higher voltage being generated prior to the plug firing. Insulation breakdown is a reported problem in relation the the plug mounted coils and this will be aggravated.
immortal_suby
03-12-2007, 04:50 PM
Thanks Suby. I get real cautious regarding used electrical devices. So many things could be bad and it's buyer beware. If only 1 cylinder is throwin' a miss I would probably get new to be safe.
Is it possible that the knock sensor trippin' would kick out a cylinder misfire? .. or is it more likely that the cylinder miss is trippin' the knock sensor! What came first .. the chicken or the egg!
I'd replace the plugs first since you are going to do that anyway and inspect the boot of each coil pack at that time and replace any bad boots
Then clear the trouble codes and go from there.
If the knock or misfire codes come back up I don't know enough to tell if it is the chicken or the egg. Trevor or Beav are probably the best ones to try to answer that one. Hang on to the plugs that you pull out and label them by cylinder - their appearance may be a key to the puzzle.
etz bseder
03-12-2007, 04:55 PM
Sorry to hijak this thread a little, but it may help us both.
I am also changing my spark plugs, and was wondering if someone could post any pics of where EXACTLY to find them. I am a little confused, i have never replaced the ones with coil packs before.
immortal_suby
03-12-2007, 04:56 PM
It's in the how-to documents under engine / spark plugs
here's a link
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/14308.pdf
etz bseder
03-12-2007, 06:38 PM
I saw that. It wasn't much help.
Trevor
03-12-2007, 08:39 PM
Thanks Suby. I get real cautious regarding used electrical devices. So many things could be bad and it's buyer beware. If only 1 cylinder is throwin' a miss I would probably get new to be safe.
Is it possible that the knock sensor trippin' would kick out a cylinder misfire? .. or is it more likely that the cylinder miss is trippin' the knock sensor! What came first .. the chicken or the egg!
All one can do is attempt to apply sensible logic.
The registration of a knock sensor code in itself would surely not result in a fault causing a misfire, as the signal has no association with other parts of the system.
Knock sensor codes have turned out to be accurate. This surely means that the sensor is extremely likely to be faulty.
It has never been reported that a miss fire has caused a knock sensor signal. However it just could be possible.:confused:
The easiest job and the one which is apparently essential, is the replacement of the knock sensor. It is therefore logical to attend to this first, so as to kill chicken or egg. Your choice. :confused::p
As far as I can recall you have not reported detecting a miss other than via a code. This would be the signal to suspect in respect of a possible error. This remaining chicken/egg you will have to shoot/break as the cookie crumbles.:D
tommy96LSi
03-12-2007, 09:59 PM
Thanks for all the help so far guys, that was my dad who was on earlier today (catshot). I did quite a bit of hovering while he was typing.
In response to the plug locations, I just took out the intake pieces from the filter all the way up to the throttle. The even numberred cylinders (left or passenger side) were really easy to find and take out. One problematic spot is where the little bracket that holds up the air filter gets in the way of the #4 coil and plug. I just took it out with a wrench and it was pretty simple.
As far as location of everything, its easy to see the clear (most likely your's are faded to yellow like mine) ends of the coils. Each coil has a 12mm bolt holding in the coils directly next to it. Once you have the bolts out there are green blue and grey connectors on the backside of the cylinder row. There are two clips on each of these colored connectors (one on the top and one on the bottom)
If you are trying to take a look at them without removing anything, its pretty difficult but you should be able to see the ends of the coils and the bolts that hold them in with a flashlight and a broken neck. Once you see one, the rest will be know problem. Good luck and Have Fun :cool:
vBulletin® v3.8.7, Copyright ©2000-2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.