ECUtune Stage 1v5

[longassname]

Ok, Stage 1v5 is officially done. Dyno plots will have to wait until after I put the new race built transmission in but I can tell you now it's fast. I'm going to make some initial revisions to the website today so those who are waiting for it can order it and I'll make the more extensive revisions in a couple weeks when we have the dyno plots and I'm adding some of the other new products to the website.

For those checking into this thread who haven't been following along in the developments thread, Stage 1v5 is the first part of the new software line up I am working on to be released. I've taken all that we've learned in the development of the prior verssion of stage 2 and stage 3 software and moved it down to the stage 1 software. The stage 1 software is a performance upgrade which does not require the use of any other hardware modifications.

The ECUtune memory adaptor holds two sets of software on it which can be switched between on the fly. The stage 1v 5 software has performance fuel maps which let us run ignition timing maps which greatly improve peformance. The first set of software on the memory adaptor is tuned to get every last drop of performance out of premium unleaded. It runs significanly more ignition advance than the factory software under all acceleration conditions with no correction from the knock sensors being necessary either up or down. The second version of software on the memory adaptor has an ignition timing table tuned to run regular unleaded or nitrous oxide with premium unleaded. Performance with regular unleaded is smooth and quite good but not comparable to the performance with premium unleaded and the stage 1v5 software. The performance of the stage 1v5 software is vastly superior to both the factory software and the prior versions of stage 1 software.

The stage 1v5 software has the rev limiter raised to 7400 rpms and lower rpm tuning to greatly improve performance for cars which have been converted to manual transmissions. With the ECU wired to indicate the transmission is alwasy in the N position there should not be any problems with stalling when the clutch pedal is pressed or when the car is taken out of gear and the pedal is released.

[NeedForSpeed]

I'll be the first to say here,
'Outstanding'!

[shotgunslade]

So, how does the performance of the Stage 1v5 compare with that of Stage 2v5?

[longassname]

2v6 was the version where we made the jump into the better primary timing map. Performance of 1v5 and 2v6 are comparable--1v5 actually being better at low rpms with a manual transmission. Both would be much faster than 2v5.


So, how does the performance of the Stage 1v5 compare with that of Stage 2v5?

[NeedForSpeed]

Michael,

I think I missed it somewhere? Why was 7400 selected as the fuel cut-off point, and say, not rounded to 7500 rpm? What determined 7400?

[shotgunslade]

Stage 2V6 requires replacement of the injectors, correct?

[longassname]

Way back in the day I asked everyone what rpm they wanted for the rev limiter and the consensus came back 7400; it's been 7400 ever since.

Michael,

I think I missed it somewhere? Why was 7400 selected as the fuel cut-off point, and say, not rounded to 7500 rpm? What determined 7400?

[longassname]

No 2v6 does not require replacement of the injectors. That's the soon to come 2v7 software.

Stage 2V6 requires replacement of the injectors, correct?

[shotgunslade]

Right, so I already have Stage 2v6, because I know I have the last one before the injector upgrade. Still have minor 5MT stall, though, after I put the bypass back to OEM position. Notice that if I push in the clutch to stop for a stoplight at a relatively high rpm 2000+, it doesn't stall.

[longassname]

I'm not sure what you are describing. I don't know if you are saying that if you are not in gear and and don't have the clutch held down it stalls but if you push in the clutch it doesn't stall....or if you are describing that you are decellerating in gear and that it's better if you press the clutch at a higher rpm than a lower. Not asking you to explain it in here...just saying I have no idea what you were saying. Next time I go to Miami and have the factory service manual in front of me I will look up the info on the inhibitor switch and wiring diagram and start a new thread on how to wire the ecu so that it thinks it's in N. It's no good to have the fuel and ignition cut off when the engine isn't attached to the wheels to keep it spinning. If wiring it to N doesn't work I'll make a seperate version of software for the manual transmissions. It should work though. Anytime I am in the fuel cut and pop my car into N the fuel cut turns off and the igntion goes back to normal--exactly for that reason, so the car doesn't stall.


Right, so I already have Stage 2v6, because I know I have the last one before the injector upgrade. Still have minor 5MT stall, though, after I put the bypass back to OEM position. Notice that if I push in the clutch to stop for a stoplight at a relatively high rpm 2000+, it doesn't stall.

[shotgunslade]

I'm slowing rapidly for a stop light, to come to a dead stop, or slowing for a stop sign. At some point, I have to push the clutch in. At what engine speed I push the clutch in has a big impact on whether or not it stalls. If I push the clutch in while the engine is over 2000rpm, it doesn't seem to stall. Engine speed drops quickly to about 1100 rpm, then slowly drops down to idle speed. If I push the clutch in at about 1500 rpm, engine speed will drop rapidly down to almost 0 and it may stall or it may recover, and jump back up to idle speed. If I am slowing down more slowly and push in the clutch about 800 rpm, it will not stall,

[longassname]

We'll discuss it in the mt fix thread after I start it. I'm having someone with an mt and a wideband test the wiring I'm going to suggest to make sure it does in fact prevent the fuel/ignition cut and then I'll start that thread.

[shotgunslade]

Thanks. I am enjoying the car with the new chip. Stalling is much diminished compared with previous chips. Might spring for the cam kit when it is available.

[longassname]

Don't take this post as a complaint about your mentioning the mt stall problem here; I just have to post this because when people who don't come on the forums regurlarly wander into a thread like this and read words like stalling isn't nearly as bad as with previous chips they think the chips cause the stalling.

The stalling he is talking about is a bug many people run into when they convert their svx from automatic transmisison to manual. It occurs on SVX's that don't have any of our chips in them. Our more recent software versions make them occur less often.

[shotgunslade]

Agreed. A 5MT car without chips, even OBDII cars, such as Mychailo's suffer bad 5MT stall problems. I think the Stage2v6 chip probably helps the problem a lot. I can really tell the improvement of the chip compared with previous chips, which did not attempt to address the problem.

[SVXRide]

Michael,
Nice! Are you going to start a separate thread for the 2v7, or use one of the existing ECU threads? I've got my 370cc injectors, just wondering how much time I have to get them blueprinted before you've got the 2v7 chip available.
-Bill

[longassname]

You have plenty of time. I still have to build a trans, install a trans, update a blower kit, install a blower kit....and then I will be able to finish stage 2v7. That sounds like 5 weekends to me.

Michael,
Nice! Are you going to start a separate thread for the 2v7, or use one of the existing ECU threads? I've got my 370cc injectors, just wondering how much time I have to get them blueprinted before you've got the 2v7 chip available.
-Bill

[immortal_suby]

will 2v6 work with the nitrous kit you used to sell and 125 hp jets? (I bought it from Tom who bought it from subafreak). I have 2v5 now. wondering if I can upgrade to 2v6.
thanks.
sorry for this being in entirely the wrong thread. looking forward to the dyno plots.

[longassname]

I left out install heads with cams...make that 6 weekends.

[SVXtacy]

What the, 1v5? What are the benefits from a 1v4 upgrade for an auto?

[longassname]

No, the 2nd version of 2v6 is for ethanol it does not have reduced timing. It will work with 2v7 or 1v5. Send me your jets first and let me check them and mark them for you before you install it.


will 2v6 work with the nitrous kit you used to sell and 125 hp jets? (I bought it from Tom who bought it from subafreak). I have 2v5 now. wondering if I can upgrade to 2v6.
thanks.
sorry for this being in entirely the wrong thread. looking forward to the dyno plots.

[longassname]

Drives better and goes faster.

What the, 1v5? What are the benefits from a 1v4 upgrade for an auto?

[SVXRide]

I left out install heads with cams...make that 6 weekends.


Sounds good...might just have an engine coming together in the same timeframe:cool:
-Bill

[AFBeefcake]

So 1v5 does not use the knock sensors? So if theres knock what hapens?

[longassname]

allright, the website is revised enough to order the new stage 1 off of it. The info isn't all updated but the ordering works.

[longassname]

Of course it uses knock sensors. Who said it doesn't use knock sensors? I said the ignition advance table is so good that the knock sensors never detect any need to retard the timing or to advance it.

So 1v5 does not use the knock sensors? So if theres knock what hapens?

[AFBeefcake]

Ok good. I was not under standing what you said. I got it now.:)

[Tiamat-red]

So, if I order one off the website now(today(Monday)) it will be 1v5?
Or do I need to call?

[longassname]

Yes, I am now shipping 1v5.

So, if I order one off the website now(today(Monday)) it will be 1v5?
Or do I need to call?

[huck369]

Looking forward to some dyno numbers....

It sounds like just what FrankenWedge needs:D

[NeedForSpeed]

Just to be clear, as you have mentioned a couple solutions for the stalling with factory programming in MT converted cars, will the new software still drop fuel and timing to zero when decelerating with the auto, just as stock programming does? Does this programming benefit fuel economy?

Then, the MT guys will wire the ECU to N, to be covered in another thread? If the MT guys can get around this, and the autobox guys can get all the economy available off throttle, that's perfect.



The stage 1v5 software has the rev limiter raised to 7400 rpms and lower rpm tuning to greatly improve performance for cars which have been converted to manual transmissions. With the ECU wired to indicate the transmission is alwasy in the N position there should not be any problems with stalling when the clutch pedal is pressed or when the car is taken out of gear and the pedal is released.

[longassname]

That is correct. The stage 1 software still has the fuel cut on decell just like factory.

Then the mt guys will wire the ECU to N to deactivate the fuel cut on their cars. If that doesn't work I will make them a 2nd version specifically for manual transmissions. I am not removing the fuel cut from the standard software for automatic SVXii.


Just to be clear, as you have mentioned a couple solutions for the stalling with factory programming in MT converted cars, will the new software still drop fuel and timing to zero when decelerating with the auto, just as stock programming does? Does this programming benefit fuel economy?

Then, the MT guys will wire the ECU to N, to be covered in another thread? If the MT guys can get around this, and the autobox guys can get all the economy available off throttle, that's perfect.

[mikecg]

That is correct. The stage 1 software still has the fuel cut on decell just like factory.

Then the mt guys will wire the ECU to N to deactivate the fuel cut on their cars. If that doesn't work I will make them a 2nd version specifically for manual transmissions. I am not removing the fuel cut from the standard software for automatic SVXii.


Quick question, wont wiring the ECU to see nutral all the time disable the cruise control? I thought that was why we set the car up to see nutral when the clutch was pushed in. That way the cruise control could be used and it would shut off if you pressed the clutch in. I've also learned to not push the cltch in until the engine is below 2000rpms when stopping. That seems to prevent the stall, because the engine is under load still while stopping.

[longassname]

I'm not sure but you may well be right. I wasn't thinking of that. I'll have the test bunny pay attention to that too. If that is the case then I will make a seperate version for cars with manual transmissions. When I am in front of the factory service manual I will pay attention to if the signal to the cruise control computer is actually coming from the ecu or if it was originally just on the same circuit. If they are just on the same circuit we can wire them seperately so that the ecu always thinks it's in N but the cruise control only thinks it's in N when the clutch is pushed in. Even if the cruise control computer is getting its signal from the ecu if its just a high/low switch we can wire it seperately.


Quick question, wont wiring the ECU to see nutral all the time disable the cruise control? I thought that was why we set the car up to see nutral when the clutch was pushed in. That way the cruise control could be used and it would shut off if you pressed the clutch in. I've also learned to not push the cltch in until the engine is below 2000rpms when stopping. That seems to prevent the stall, because the engine is under load still while stopping.

[huck369]

I'm not sure but you may well be right. I wasn't thinking of that. I'll have the test bunny pay attention to that too. If that is the case then I will make a seperate version for cars with manual transmissions. When I am in front of the factory service manual I will pay attention to if the signal to the cruise control computer is actually coming from the ecu or if it was originally just on the same circuit. If they are just on the same circuit we can wire them seperately so that the ecu always thinks it's in N but the cruise control only thinks it's in N when the clutch is pushed in.


Well...wouldn't wiring the clutch peddle up to show neutral when you press in the clutch peddle FIX the stall problem?
As the ECU would see it as being in neutral (when coasting with the clutch de-pressed) so it wouldn't cut the fuel?

That is how I wired mine, and I never had a stall problem...so maybe that's why....I only wired it that way to make the cruise control work....

Just some thoughts...

[longassname]

Yes, you would just have to continue holding the clutch in until after you stopped.

Well...wouldn't wiring the clutch peddle up to show neutral when you press in the clutch peddle FIX the stall problem?
As the ECU would see it as being in neutral (when coasting with the clutch de-pressed) so it wouldn't cut the fuel?

That is how I wired mine, and I never had a stall problem...so maybe that's why....I only wired it that way to make the cruise control work....

Just some thoughts...

[longassname]

this manual transmisison stuff is quickly starting to dominate the stage1v5 thread. There's no point in talking about it in here. I won't really be ready to talk about it until I can sit in front of the schematics and actually know what I'm talking about....I'll start a new thread then to discuss it and see if we can come to consensus on if I should make a seperate version specifically for manual transmissions.

[Tiamat-red]

Just ordered mine.
Cant wait!

[longassname]

You won't have to wait long. I'm packing it now and including it in todays shipments. Will be at the post office in about an hour.

Just ordered mine.
Cant wait!

[longassname]

Anyone who has an older stage 1 and didn't get an email from me isn't on my list of registered owners or I have the wrong email for you. If you want to get update notices like this and be eligable for upgrade pricing send me an email with your serial # email addy and shipping address.

[SVXRide]

how about folks who purchased the stage 1 and upgraded to the stage 2 and then bought another SVX that could use the new stage 1:rolleyes:
-Bill

[longassname]

I would have left you out of the emailing assuming that your stage 1 was replaced with the stage 2.

how about folks who purchased the stage 1 and upgraded to the stage 2 and then bought another SVX that could use the new stage 1:rolleyes:
-Bill

[92svx95]

Just received the 1v5. Gonna install it at work and see how the test drive feels on my way home :) Thx Mike with the fast shipment..

[Tiamat-red]

Ditto with the fast shipping.
Thanks!

[Tiamat-red]

Uh, oh,
Just installed it and now I have a check engine light.

Codes 37, and 55
37 may be because I'm running my A/F gauge from that ecu lead, but 55?
Why would it throw a 55??

Why is nothing ever easy on this car...

[Tiamat-red]

Oh sorry, 55 is egr gas temp sensor(california).
I have a 92 with what I ASSUME was a 92 ecu.

Man...I have inspection next month, and I had to take the tan resistor out of the ecu too...
Maybe I can solder it back on.

[longassname]

I used later model basecode this time. Send your ROMs back. I'll switch back to the 92 basecode and send you new ROMs.

[longassname]

I was hoping the late model basecode wouldn't throw the code 55 on the 92s but only had one way of finding out. I'll switch back to the 92 basecode tonight. Anyone else who has a 92 and has 1v5 already send it back.

[longassname]

do you have a 92 or a 95


Just received the 1v5. Gonna install it at work and see how the test drive feels on my way home :) Thx Mike with the fast shipment..

[92svx95]

hehehe the chip feels awesome. definately more noticable then 1v4... i was having so much fun driving home that i lost track of my gas and my gas light came on so i came home for dinner =] my check engine light did come on but its becuse of my stupid speed sensor,,, mebbie i should go check for a code 55... mines a 92 Mike.. my 95 stays stock:cool: . ill go check for the code 55... oh yea i like the new chip :D thx

[longassname]

I would re-wire that guage to its own sending unit. You're probaly not getting an accurate signal to either the ecu or the guage.

Uh, oh,
Just installed it and now I have a check engine light.

Codes 37, and 55
37 may be because I'm running my A/F gauge from that ecu lead, but 55?
Why would it throw a 55??

Why is nothing ever easy on this car...

[92svx95]

i got good news and some bad news.... atleast its not throwing a code 55,, but the bad news is my ecu caught on fire :eek: :eek: :eek: j/k only bad news is i need gas!!!!!!! i definately like the 1v5 :D ill check codes in a week just to be sure...

[longassname]

I see you are in California; is yours a California model? The 92 california model has the egr temp sensor just like the later models (just mounted in a different place). The 92 California models have the egr temp sensor mounted directly on the egr valve. Latter model cars have the egr temp sensor mounted on the rear passenger side of the manifold. As I understand it, 92 non California model cars don't have an egr temp sensor.


i got good news and some bad news.... atleast its not throwing a code 55,, but the bad news is my ecu caught on fire :eek: :eek: :eek: j/k only bad news is i need gas!!!!!!! i definately like the 1v5 :D ill check codes in a week just to be sure...

[92svx95]

hmmmm run a carfax for me :D i dont think its a ca model,,, any way to check ??? i do vaguely remember it being from diff state but i dont remember..

[longassname]

The key would be to look and see if it has an egr temp sensor in either of those locations.

hmmmm run a carfax for me :D i dont think its a ca model,,, any way to check ??? i do vaguely remember it being from diff state but i dont remember..

[92svx95]

im not seeing a EGR temp sensor i guess problem solved!

[longassname]

tiamet-red did you just install your afr meter at the same time? Install it on the passenger side?

[Tiamat-red]

No, the A/F gauge has been there for about 2 years.

[mikecg]

Oh sorry, 55 is egr gas temp sensor(california).
I have a 92 with what I ASSUME was a 92 ecu.

Man...I have inspection next month, and I had to take the tan resistor out of the ecu too...
Maybe I can solder it back on.


If your desperate I can check the ECU I have in the parts car. If the resistor is still in tact I could let you barrow it for inspection. But I would be suprised if that caused you to fail.

[Tiamat-red]

Naaa, the inspection isn't due untill Feburary so as long as there isn't a problem getting it back to me before then I can drive my Jeep to work.

Also, I just went out and unplugged the battery, unhooked the A/F gauge, and took it for a 5 minute drive. After hooking the battery back up of course.
The code 55 came back on but not the 37. But it also stalled coasting into my driveway. So the A/f gauge may have caused the 37, but I'd still rather not drive it if it's going to stall...

[Tiamat-red]

Although I DO want it back sooner than that.:rolleyes:

[Tiamat-red]

Oh, wait.
Sorry Mikecg.
For some reason
I thought you were LAN...
I work third shift, and I need sleep.
Thanks though.

[longassname]

I'll get you it built on the 92 base code out today.

[Tiamat-red]

Thank you, that would be great.

[longassname]

I have verified with a few others now that the later model basecode I used in the 1st of the stage 1v5 does throw a code 55 for the egr temp sensor on the 92 cars that don't have an egr temp sensor. I ported the 1v5 modifications over to the 92 basecode I've used in the past now. Fortunately everyone except Tiamat-red who got the build on the latter model basecode got it as an upgrade so....If you have a 92 and have the 1v5 please send it back and I will send you the new build which won't throw the error code on your 92.

[huck369]

Have got a dyno run of this one yet?

[longassname]

Nope, my transmission project didn't get completed this weekend. I got down to Miami and found that some of the parts I needed were missing from the boxes that I had verified arrived for the build. I'll get my trans built next weekend and then I'll be ready to dyno.


Have got a dyno run of this one yet?

[92svx95]

I have verified with a few others now that the later model basecode I used in the 1st of the stage 1v5 does throw a code 55 for the egr temp sensor on the 92 cars that don't have an egr temp sensor. I ported the 1v5 modifications over to the 92 basecode I've used in the past now. Fortunately everyone except Tiamat-red who got the build on the latter model basecode got it as an upgrade so....If you have a 92 and have the 1v5 please send it back and I will send you the new build which won't throw the error code on your 92.


What if im not getting a code 55 on my 92,,, you still want me to send it back???

[longassname]

If you still aren't getting a code 55 on your 92 then it is probably a california model which does have the egr temp sensor. The 92 california models have the eger temp sensor on the egr valve itself.



What if im not getting a code 55 on my 92,,, you still want me to send it back???

[SVXRide]

Nope, my transmission project didn't get completed this weekend. I got down to Miami and found that some of the parts I needed were missing from the boxes that I had verified arrived for the build. I'll get my trans built next weekend and then I'll be ready to dyno.


but did you find the exhaust parts and ship them out?:rolleyes: ;)
-Bill

[NeedForSpeed]

Michael,

Why did you want to test later model basecode? I know you had a good reason, can you explain it for interest here? Thanks

I used later model basecode this time. Send your ROMs back. I'll switch back to the 92 basecode and send you new ROMs.

[longassname]

Why not? They didn't revise it to make it worse.


Michael,

Why did you want to test later model basecode? I know you had a good reason, can you explain it for interest here? Thanks

[longassname]

wrong thread, check your pm's

but did you find the exhaust parts and ship them out?:rolleyes: ;)
-Bill

[NeedForSpeed]

Worse for what? Power, fuel economy, emissions?

My new 92 began throwing a CEL a year or two after new, and Subaru did something with the programming. I assume 'worse' as for power.

I suppose one could assume that some improvement was made in later programming, but based on what? Power ratings were the same, etc.

Anyway, just curious to what you were looking for in the later programming, what your hunch was.


Why not? They didn't revise it to make it worse.

[Tiamat-red]

Just to make sure the "even" rom goes on "top" and the "odd" goes on "bottom" right?
Orientation being with the switch post on the "bottom" right.
As in the pics on the ecutune website?

[longassname]

yes that is correct


Just to make sure the "even" rom goes on "top" and the "odd" goes on "bottom" right?
Orientation being with the switch post on the "bottom" right.
As in the pics on the ecutune website?

[immortal_suby]

No, the 2nd version of 2v6 is for ethanol it does not have reduced timing. It will work with 2v7 or 1v5. Send me your jets first and let me check them and mark them for you before you install it.

Hey Mike,
How can I get 2v7. I don't see it on your website but sometimes I am a little slow. It is a '92 if that will make a difference.
Thanks

[longassname]

2v7 doesn't exist yet. I need to get my transmission project finished and dyno stage 1v5 before I can get to work on 2v7. I was planning on doing that this weekend but that's not going to happen. I have too much to do here.

[Phast SVX]

2v7 doesn't exist yet. I need to get my transmission project finished and dyno stage 1v5 before I can get to work on 2v7. I was planning on doing that this weekend but that's not going to happen. I have to much to do here.
sucks.....cant wait

[nexus_7]

I cant wait to see the #'s on the 1v5. :)

Maybe I will be able to install mine this weekend.

Greg

[longassname]

allright, i'm caught up with programming Stage 1v5 ROMs built on the 92 base code and caught up with filling orders with the new ROMs. We're back on track now.

[Tiamat-red]

Just to let everyone know the problems I've had/described so far have been fixed.
I got the "new" roms in. As per LAN's suggestion I ordered and installed Double Platinum NGK spark plugs.
And so far everything is great.
And just in case anyone was(or will be if this is archived) wondering, the customer service was excellent!
He took care of everything.
Even though some of the problems were my fault.

Can't wait to see the dyno #'s.

Although when I mash it, it certainly does feel/sound/go faster already.:D

[Tiamat-red]

Any #'s yet?

[Merz]

Are you still planning to post dyno numbers for 1v5? I was waiting to see them before i decided if i wanted to upgrade from 1v4. Thanks

[longassname]

that's the plan allright; I've gone to great lengths to be able to get dyno numbers. I've had to build a stock SVX. I'll have some dyno numbers soon.

Are you still planning to post dyno numbers for 1v5? I was waiting to see them before i decided if i wanted to upgrade from 1v4. Thanks

[GreenMarine]

Dyno #? :).... I'm kinda curious now... Especially if this fixes the stalling problem that us Manual tranny guys have been plagued with :rolleyes: :)

~ Chris

[AFBeefcake]

I have a 1V5 in my 5 speed and it has never stalled.

[GreenMarine]

I have a 1V5 in my 5 speed and it has never stalled.

How would you say it runs compared to stock? Any info regarding performance, fuel mileage, engine issues (or lack there of), anything else...

(This question is open to anyone who has a 5MT swap)...

~ Chris

[huck369]

I have a 1V5 in my 5 speed and it has never stalled.



I have the stock ECU in my 5-speed...and it has never stalled (and my old Pearly 5-speed never stalled either, running the stock ECU)

[AFBeefcake]

How would you say it runs compared to stock? Any info regarding performance, fuel mileage, engine issues (or lack there of), anything else...

(This question is open to anyone who has a 5MT swap)...

~ Chris

Well I have not really driven my car that much with the 5 speed maybe 7-8 tanks of gas, and most of the time I put my foot into it a lot. I get about 19 MPG. Most of my issues were fixed when I checked all of my bolts and installed a group n trany mount.

My remaining issues well really more adjusting to the car then issues. are a stiff clutch petal and giving the car the right amount of gas from a stop. A 5 speed SVX feels and drives a lot different from my daily driven 1.8 impreza 5 speed. :D

o I also somes time get high RPMs at idle.

[GreenMarine]

Hey longass (I just wanted to say that :D )

I have been getting more and more interested in this chip in the recent days that I have been back in the MOD section... If you come across any dyno charts or anything that can "visually express" all the wonderful things that you posted about earlier in the thread then I'll have to sell my mountain bike so I can get this... :cool:

~ Chris

[GreenMarine]

Hello??? Anything at all on this chip??

~ Chris

[longassname]

Were you looking for me to say wonderful things? Here goes.... "wondeful things" Seriously though, no I don't have any dyno plots or visually impressive media for you but I can tell you than 90% of the time sales are followed by an email from the customer saying how impressed with it they are and how much faster their car is and better it drives.


Hello??? Anything at all on this chip??

~ Chris

[GreenMarine]

Were you looking for me to say wonderful things? Here goes.... "wondeful things" Seriously though, no I don't have any dyno plots or visually impressive media for you but I can tell you than 90% of the time sales are followed by an email from the customer saying how impressed with it they are and how much faster their car is and better it drives.

That works for me :D... Is it an easy install?? I mean I HATE electrical crap (got shocked by a truck 24V system once :( ) and would honestly rather do anything mechanical than electircal... If I bought it do you think I could install it with the basic tools??

~ Chris

[GreenMarine]

Oh, and do you think that it really solves the stalling problem??? That is one of the things I am most interested in :)

~ Chris

[Nomake Wan]

I can't say if it solves the stalling problem or not, since my car is auto.

But the installation was easy (assuming you know your way around a socket wrench and a screwdriver, that is), consisting of only taking out the ECU, opening the ECU, removing the resistor to activate the socket, and pushing the ECUtune into the socket. That was it. Easy easy easy.

And the results are great. I never had a benchmark on the old ECU so I can't give you pretty-pretty dyno plots either. But my butt dyno says it's got more torque, and installing the 1v5 solved the problem I was having where the engine would seem to run out of power right at 3k RPMs, then slowly continue up. Now when you touch the pedal it's just steady, smooth power all the way through.

And most of the time you don't even need to go above 3500 RPMs to get better acceleration than the other cars at the stoplight. For those of you who sometimes need to get ahead so you can switch lanes and get onto the freeway. ;)

Big improvement over stock. Just buy it and be impressed. :D

[GreenMarine]

Haha, good review... Thanks... I'll see how the "christmas funds" are doing and see if I can get it... :)

~ Chris

[GreenMarine]

Well, I just had to drop $500 on new tires after discovering my fronts were worn to the cords on the inside... I guess the Stage 1 Version 5 upgrade is going to have to wait for me :(

~ Chris

[GreenMarine]

I just filed my taxes and should be getting a good amount back this year. I was wondering LAN, how long would it take to get to my door (Raleigh, NC)??

~ Chris

[SVXRide]

Chris,
The only "painful" part of this is getting the ECU out from under the dash in the first place. Getting to the nuts that hold it in place is a pain and don't be surprised when you convince yourself that it will stay in place just fine with only two nuts tightened (can't believe I just typed that:rolleyes:). Get a electrostatic wristband at RadioShack to make sure you don't zap anything when you're putting the new board and chips in.
-Bill

[dragoontwo]

My only issue was that I had to press a lot harder than I thought to get it into the socket. I had to remove the circuit board from the case to avoid breaking it. The ecu circuit board was flexing a lot just trying to push it on. Yes all the pis were straight...

[longassname]

I need to revise the directions with pictures of the new memory adaptors and add a note about that. Some of the new memory adaptors have the same header as the old ones (round gold pins). Some of the new memory adaptors have a new header (square silver pins). The ones with the new headers fit very tightly in the ECU's socket. It's probably a good idea to do just what dragoontwo did--go ahead and unscrew the circuit board in the ECU so that you can squeeze both sides between your fingers when installing the memory adaptor.


My only issue was that I had to press a lot harder than I thought to get it into the socket. I had to remove the circuit board from the case to avoid breaking it. The ecu circuit board was flexing a lot just trying to push it on. Yes all the pis were straight...

[longassname]

I ship priority mail so two days assuming you catch me on a good day when I have some on the shelf ready to go. If it's something urgent you should call and check first. I have a lot piled up to do these days and about 90% of my motivation goes into physical therapy for my knee (hince a lot piled up undone still) so sometimes it's takes a few days to get an order out.


I just filed my taxes and should be getting a good amount back this year. I was wondering LAN, how long would it take to get to my door (Raleigh, NC)??

~ Chris

[ensteele]

Are we better off buying on ebay, or ordering directly from you? Thanks :)

[longassname]

Thanks for asking,

Directly from www.ecutune.com --> less money to Ebay and more money to SVX performance part development.


Are we better off buying on ebay, or ordering directly from you? Thanks :)

[GreenMarine]

I ship priority mail so two days assuming you catch me on a good day when I have some on the shelf ready to go. If it's something urgent you should call and check first. I have a lot piled up to do these days and about 90% of my motivation goes into physical therapy for my knee (hince a lot piled up undone still) so sometimes it's takes a few days to get an order out.

Cool, it'll probably be a few weeks, but as soon as I see my tax return in the bank I'll be placing that order :)

~ Chris

[longassname]

Awesome, your $$ will pay for the bearings in the upcoming NA build.


Cool, it'll probably be a few weeks, but as soon as I see my tax return in the bank I'll be placing that order :)

~ Chris

[odepaj]

Are there any updates coming out (1v6) soon?



Dustin

Any time this year is what I consider "soon".

[longassname]

nope, 1v5 seems dialed in. if it's not broken don't fix it

[GreenMarine]

Longass (Mike) I called you today... Sending you a PM right now... I need to hear back from you ASAP as I am not only looking to get your ECU upgrade in this weekend at the Wilmington, NC dyno meet, but I am also going to be prepping the SVX for it's appearance in the next episode of the Periodic Review of NASIOC... I think I'm going to need the Stage 1 to be "next day" shipped if possible so I can do the filming, dyno work and ECU stage 1 install all this coming weekend... Check PM...

~ Chris

[GreenMarine]

Stage 1v5 ordered... Should be in the car this weekend... I'll post up my impressions when I get back from the Dyno meet on Saturday...

~ Chris

[immortal_suby]

Chris, don't be disappointed if you don't see a huge improvement right away on the dyno. It seems to take a few days of driving before you see the full effect of the chip.

[GreenMarine]

Chris, don't be disappointed if you don't see a huge improvement right away on the dyno. It seems to take a few days of driving before you see the full effect of the chip.

Cool, Mike told me the same thing... How do you like yours?

~ Chris

[immortal_suby]

Cool, Mike told me the same thing... How do you like yours?

~ Chris

I have the 2v7 with Z32 maf and 370cc injectors. I like it :D

[GreenMarine]

Hey Mike, It came today, just intime for me to take it to Wilmington with me tomorrow morning and get on the dyno... I'll post the results as soon as I get back from the meet on Sunday :)

Remember, my car isn't totally "Stock... I have two primary CAT replacements and a full 3 piece Stebro Exhaust... Stebro claims a 14 hp crank Hp gain over stock. So take that into consideration. I also have a Perrin Light weight crank pully and Exedy 13lb flywheel... So we'll see how the first pull pans out against an estimated "stock" SVX pull (which should be around that of a stock WRX, minus the many years difference between a WRX and an SVX.... So a stock WRX "about 165whp on the first pull (if my engine is healthy, which it better be considering how religious I am with maintenance) )... Who knows what to expect from the second and third pull... I guess we'll findout in a few days :)

~ Chris

[GreenMarine]

Dyno pulls were a success... Charts will be posted as soon as the shop emails them to me :)... LAN, I think these charts are going to get you a few more sales ;) Could there possibly be a commission to cover the $125 spent on the Dyno? ;)

~ Chris

[immortal_suby]

What is very interesting about your pulls is it will be pretty close to apples/apples with a wrx since you have the same tranny.

[GreenMarine]

What is very interesting about your pulls is it will be pretty close to apples/apples with a wrx since you have the same tranny.

Except you should see the torque curve of the EG33 vs a WRX... All the NASIOC guys standing around were like "HOLY ****!!! It just goes straight up and stays there!!!"... I just laughed and said "See why I haven't done a WRX engine swap" ;)

~ Chris

[SVXRide]

Chris,
Does this mean your "pulls" are done? Post up already!:D
-Bill

[Nevin]

I too, am interested in seeing a dyno. I've had my 1v5 for a little over 3 months now. I really lke it, but I'm just curious what all it actually did.

[GreenMarine]

Chris,
Does this mean your "pulls" are done? Post up already!:D
-Bill

It'll probably be Monday or Tuesday before I can get the charts up as the shop isn't open today and therefore no one was there to email them to me... But I will get them up ASAP...

On another hand Bill, I think I need to talk with you about some Swaybar Solutions... When you get some free time can you let me know if you sell anything to tighten up the handling? Thanks

~ Chris

[SVXRide]

It'll probably be Monday or Tuesday before I can get the charts up as the shop isn't open today and therefore no one was there to email them to me... But I will get them up ASAP...

On another hand Bill, I think I need to talk with you about some Swaybar Solutions... When you get some free time can you let me know if you sell anything to tighten up the handling? Thanks

~ Chris

Chris,
No problem! Drop me an email at william.e.cutlip@nasa.gov.
So, what was the max Hp and Tq on the dyno?
-Bill

[GreenMarine]

Chris,
No problem! Drop me an email at william.e.cutlip@nasa.gov.
So, what was the max Hp and Tq on the dyno?
-Bill

Email sent...

If I remember correctly the numbers after the ECUtune stage 1 were around 191wtq and 183whp... I should have the Dyno plots tomorrow sometime. As soon as I get them I'll post them up...

~ Chris

[Tim]

Email sent...

If I remember correctly the numbers after the ECUtune stage 1 were around 191wtq and 183whp... I should have the Dyno plots tomorrow sometime. As soon as I get them I'll post them up...

~ Chris

Where were the peak numbers at in the RPM range?

[GreenMarine]

I'll post the charts up as soon as I get them from National Speed... I can't remember off the top of my head :(

~ Chris

[GreenMarine]

Alright guys, because of unknown email issues I finally lost my patience and just told them to burn the graphs to a CD and send it to me... Should be early next week, maybe this weekend :)... Again, I'm sorry to keep youguys in suspense for so long :(

~ Chris

[GreenMarine]

Here they are... The dyno results from the ECUTune Stage 1.v5 swap...

I'll just post the compairison chart with the best stock run and the best swap run...

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z23/GreenMarineSVX/Comparrision.jpg

I know it looks like there isn't much of a gain there, and at first there didn't feel like there was much of one... However, after driving it for over 2 weeks now, I can safely say that there is a noticable gain in performance and smoothness... I'd even go as far as to say that I think I could touch 200wtq now. And it pulls alot harder all over the rev range...

Oh well, to those that are undecided, take these results for what you want. I was one of the people that wanted the results before I bought it. But now that I look at them on paper, the inprovments in drivability (which can't really be shown on the graph) is the main improvment... I haven't noticed a change in MPG yet and I also haven't hooked up the 87 octane map switch. Just can't be bothered to do it now... I still recommend it as a good upgrade for the $$$

~ Chris

[SVXRide]

Chris,
Just so we get the "history" right, the engine mods to your car are limited to the 1v5 chip and Stebro exhaust, correct? To this, we only need to note that your car does have a 5 spd.
Anything I'm missing that could have an affect on the whp? (weight of the tires/rims vs stock tires/rims?).
-Bill

[immortal_suby]

So, according to those plots you got at most 5 lb-ft of torque. The AF ratio looks like it does better at the top end. Other than that I don't see much. Perhaps you will see more as the computer learns to use more aggressive timing. Any chance you can ever get back to that dyno?

[Trevor]

A logical scientific explanation as to exactly how the computer will/can "learn" given time and as a result is able adjust so as to improve performance is required, rather than hopeful speculation. Hearsay does not constitute viable evidence. ;)

[immortal_suby]

From Vishnu performance regarding the subaru JECS ECU. This article in particular describes the function in a boosted engine (WRX) so the default values are most likely different from the svx. It will be interesting to hear from Michael if this function is present in the svx ECU.

There is something called Ignition Advance Multiplier (IAM). It represents, by some complicated algorithm, the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It’s represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).

The “happier” (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. Conversely, the lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset or ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks.

1. There is only one ignition timing table and one knock correction table.
2. The load axis for the fuel, ignition and knock correction tables is MAF, not MAP.
3. The ignition timing map is very conservative and relies on anywhere from 0–12 degrees of additional advance which is provided by the active knock correction system.
4. The knock correction tables resembles the ignition timing table with respect to having MAF and RPM as its X and Y axis. However, in its cells is maximum knock correction authority, not absolute base timing value. At low loads (off boost), knock correction authority is 0, meaning that no additional advance is allowed to be added upon the base ignition table values. Under boost (and especially around 5000rpm, knock correction reaches its maximum authority range (or around 10–12 degrees depending on ECU type). I can only presume that the engine calibrators at FHI determined this RPM range to be particularly “trouble-prone”, requiring the “go ahead” from the knock sensor to add in the full amount of timing (learning to advance timing instead of simply assuming that is okay to do so). Naturally, the underlying timing values in the ignition timing tables are unusually low at this rpm/load range.
5. Knock correction authorty range tapers off as RPM and Load goes up (above 5500rpm). I suspect this is because knock sensors tend to become inaccurate at higher engine speeds (unable to differenentiate between actual knock and normal engine noise).
6. The above fast learning procedure simply keeps the engine operating in a rpm/load zone where base timing is very conservative and knock correction authority range is relatively large. When the engine assumes this rpm/load, the active knock correction system readily adds in maximum positive authority range due to an absense of knock and (I suspect, engine noise). I could make this special reset not work by simply advancing base timing too aggressively in his rpm/load area. This would induce knock prematurely and never all the ECU to add in the allowable knock correction. Needless to say, I keep these rpm/load zones purposely detuned to facilitate this accelerated learning technique.

[GreenMarine]

Chris,
Just so we get the "history" right, the engine mods to your car are limited to the 1v5 chip and Stebro exhaust, correct? To this, we only need to note that your car does have a 5 spd.
Anything I'm missing that could have an affect on the whp? (weight of the tires/rims vs stock tires/rims?).
-Bill

Two things I forgot to mention earlier... :(

- Perrin lightweight crank pully (1.2lbs)
- Exedy lightweight flywheel (13lbs)

Other than that and the Stebro, and ECUtune chip, I have nothing else...

~ Chris

[SVXRide]

Two things I forgot to mention earlier... :(

- Perrin lightweight crank pully (1.2lbs)
- Exedy lightweight flywheel (13lbs)

Other than that and the Stebro, and ECUtune chip, I have nothing else...

~ Chris

Chris,
thanks for providing this info. I'll use it in my SVX dyno run data base (fancy name for an Excel spreadsheet:lol:).
-Bill

[GreenMarine]

Two things I forgot to mention earlier... :(

- Perrin lightweight crank pully (1.2lbs)
- Exedy lightweight flywheel (13lbs)

Other than that and the Stebro, and ECUtune chip, I have nothing else...

~ Chris

Chris,
thanks for providing this info. I'll use it in my SVX dyno run data base (fancy name for an Excel spreadsheet:lol:).
-Bill


Oh Bill, I almost forgot to mention (because I didn't have the data at the time)... The weight of my daily driving wheels is 22lbs + 23lbs for the Tires (Kumho MX's 225/40/18)... This equals roughly 45lbs total... My Autocross wheels (which haven't been dynoed yet) are RX-7 wheels (13lbs) and Azenis RT-615's in 225/50/16 (24lbs)... That equals roughly 37lbs total... I'm wondering how much of a gain I could expect with my AutoX wheels on... I know I can feel the difference, and the turn in is alot better (probably due to the Azenis stiff sidewall) though :):)

~ Chris

[longassname]

For the next 3 days an even better value!!!

Stage 1v5 is on sale for $189 from right now 1pm eastern time on August 12th to whatever time on August 16th I switch it back to the original price of $219.

[Nevin]

For the next 3 days an even better value!!!

Stage 1v5 is on sale for $189 from right now 1pm eastern time on August 12th to whatever time on August 16th I switch it back to the original price of $219.


Why is the special always for something I already have? :lol:

You need to run a special on 2v7 so I can get that!

[longassname]

I suppose I can do that. You need an upgrade from stage 1 to 2v7 right? If you send me your paypal addy I will send an invoice for a 2v7 upgrade for $169

Why is the special always for something I already have? :lol:

You need to run a special on 2v7 so I can get that!

[Nevin]

I suppose I can do that. You need an upgrade from stage 1 to 2v7 right? If you send me your paypal addy I will send an invoice for a 2v7 upgrade for $169

Well, I feel kinda bad saying it, but I think I actually got it from Dayle at Motorsports Warehouse. I suppose they all come from you just the same, but I feel like I'd be... "taking advantage" of a good deal. Tell you what, there are other things I need worse right now, but I'll think it over...

You don't have to give me a special price or anything though, I was just sayin... :lol:

[longassname]

My 2 cents is if you aren't doing anything with your engine stick with stage 1.

None the less, I'm offering the sale price on the stage 2's while stage 1 is on sale. Which is till the 16th, the day after tomorrow. That's for anyone.

[Nevin]

My 2 cents is if you aren't doing anything with your engine stick with stage 1.

None the less, I'm offering the sale price on the stage 2's while stage 1 is on sale. Which is till the 16th, the day after tomorrow. That's for anyone.

Well, I am actually planning on some light pressure forced induction turbo madness sometime in the next few months, so I figure I'll need it sooner or later, and the 2v7 should run it just fine from what I hear.

I'm assuming you would encourage a larger fuel pump for something like this? Is the walbro pump the same for other subarus as it is for the SVX? i.e. would say... a 255 WRX pump work in the SVX? I imagine that's what I'd go for to be on the safe side.

[longassname]

Actually I'd stick with the oe fuel pump.