High speed wipers

[svx_commuter]

Does any one know of a way to keep the wipers on the glass at higher speeds?

[Beav]

Glue works.

O.K., so it wasn't funny. Most wiper blade manufacturers make arms with small spoilers on them to allow the air to push them into the windshield.

Here's a couple:
http://www.federal-mogul.com/anco/index.html

http://www.tricoproducts.com/new/teflon/teflon_fin.html

[Green1995SVX]

Are you running the nubbed OEM wipers? When I switched to them, they have been sticking down better.

-Mike

[Beav]

Another consideration is that many times the windshield becomes coated with mineral deposits from rain and dew being sunbaked on the glass. That makes the wipers and rain x, etc. ineffective. Use some CLR or Lime-Away (DON'T spill it on the paint) on the windshield and you'll be happier with the job they do.

[EverclearAtMSU]

I know this doesn't have much to do w/ making your wippers high speed, but I ran accross it and it seamed like a cool idea...click here, or somethin (http://www.us.porsche.com/national/models/911teq/safety/regensensor.htm) . I was thinking of getting one and seeing if it could work w/ our car. FYI, I'm a very lazy person :D

[Seraph]

Don't waste your money. Go get a bottle of windex and clean up all the glass. Get a bottle of rainX and rub it all over. You are set.

In the rain, I don't switch my wipers on at all. I just go fast. :D

Lwin

[EverclearAtMSU]

Originally posted by Seraph
Don't waste your money. Go get a bottle of windex and clean up all the glass. Get a bottle of rainX and rub it all over. You are set.

In the rain, I don't switch my wipers on at all. I just go fast. :D

Lwin

i'm lazy, and rainex requires that it be reaplicated

[svx_commuter]

Originally posted by Green1995SVX
Are you running the nubbed OEM wipers? When I switched to them, they have been sticking down better.

-Mike

What are nubbed wipers?

Mine work okay on the up stroke and lift off on the way down.

Beav, No deposits on the windshield it is clean or at least I think it is becasue the wiper works on the up stroke fine.

Seraph, I do not like RainX on the winshield because the wipers don't work with it. The blade just smears the water and then it beads back up after the pass. I guess I am not going fast enough.....?

Beav, Is there anything else besides the spoiler? They look funny to me.

[mohrds]

My 84 AUDI 5000S had these snap on wing-things on the wiper arms that held the wipers down up to 90MPH. I don't know about faster because I was already insane for going 90 in the rain. I don't do that anymore.

I wish I would have took those off before I got rid of the car.

Doug

[Beav]

Originally posted by svx_commuter




Beav, Is there anything else besides the spoiler? They look funny to me.

I'll see if I can find a better pic of what I'm thinking. I'm not referring to the ridiculous double or triple blades with wings and coming in a bunch of different colors. The spoilers I'm referring to are only about 4-5 inches long and are about the same curvature as a third of a fat #2 pencil. A lot of the cars in the 60's and 70's used them.

BTW, I like Rain-x, but I hate waiting for it to wear down when it has been applied to the windshield. I tried the new stuff from Castrol - it works great on anything BUT the windshield. Not as slick as Rain-x but a heckuva lot easier to spritz on and wipe off. Best part is it doesn't streak! I can do all the windows (outside and not the windshield) in a minute or two.

[svxeno]

Is there something about the age and/or strength of the springs in the wiper arms that can help with this?


Randy (Giving best suggestion I can) ii

[Beav]

Originally posted by svxeno
Is there something about the age and/or strength of the springs in the wiper arms that can help with this?


Randy (Giving best suggestion I can) ii

One would think so, but I've never seen it really play out that way. I guess the tension of the blade against the window can only be so much before it becomes a rubber eating device.

I do recall seeing a blade tension scales in a few older garages, but I chalked it up to marketing more than an actual tool. Years ago, when guys in ice cream suits and funny hats pumped your gas for you, they would do anything to sell you wipers, fan belts and upper (notice I didn't say lower?) radiator hoses. There used to be daily spiffs, paid CIF (cash in fist) for each add-on item sold.

[svx_commuter]

Originally posted by Beav


The spoilers I'm referring to are only about 4-5 inches long and are about the same curvature as a third of a fat #2 pencil.
BTW, I like Rain-x, I tried the new stuff from Castrol - it works great on anything BUT the windshield.

I think I have never seen those spoilers and they sound good.

I like Rain-X on the side windows and rear view outside mirrors. Really helps alot.

[DavieGravy]

Originally posted by Beav
Use some CLR or Lime-Away (DON'T spill it on the paint) on the windshield and you'll be happier with the job they do.

I have mineral deposits all over my FREAKING CAR from sprinklers. They won't come off. I've tried rubbing compound, paint cleaner, polish, and wax and I can't get it off no matter what I do. CLR is the only stuff I've used that works. Or should I say somewhat works. I've been rubbing it on my paint. But even that stuff only works about 40% I'm ready to say the F**K with it and get MACO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Beav]

Have you tried taking it to a body shop and letting them try to polish it out? They have a wide variety of products to pick from and the experience to know what might and what won't work. Probably a better idea than risking your paint to chemicals.

[DavieGravy]

I've tried a variety of products myself and they havn't worked. And a body shop will probably charge an optimistic minimum of $100 for the job, assuming they'd even be able to do it. I'd rather spend an extra 200 for a new paint job. I just don't see what they'd be able to do. I might buy a buffer gun and see what I can do with it myself. Other than that I think I'm SOL.
Dave

[Beav]

I wouldn't count on much of a paint job for $300 - you'd be lucky if they'd wash the car first.

[DavieGravy]

I understand. I'll look into the body shops first before going down that route. But since the cars been sitting in the sun all day, and the fact that it's black, I think I'm SOL.
Dave.

[mohrds]

Any paint job under $2000 is going to fail within a year or two. Those sprinkler deposits will come off, I've had them too.

Get some White scotch pads from a paint store. I can't remember the grit but luckily they are color coded. Use that to apply a good paint cleaner, scrubbing it to remove the mineral deposits. When finished, wax the car and you won't see them.

Be very cautious with getting a car painted. Lots of people will claim they got a great deal, but talk to them again four years later when it won't hold a shine or starts flaking off around windows, door handles, etc.

Materials close to OEM quality (which isn't great, by the way) will run a minimum of $800, and good quality materials (epoxy sealer, base coat and clear coat) will cost well over $1000. It takes about 40 hours to properly prep a car and another 10 hours to paint it if the painter is experienced. If not another 5 hours to wet sand the clear coat and buff out his orange peel or runs.

Doug

[red95svx]

I loved the Rain X that you added to your washer fluid......every time you washed the windshield another coat of Rain X was applied. You could do this even if it was already raining. The stuff worked great but I can't find it any more:(

David

p.s I've seen the "wiper wings" that add downforce when driving at high speeds. The local parts shops sell them pretty cheap.

[kuoh]

Perhaps the spring at the base of the wiper arm is just weakened from old age?

KuoH

Originally posted by red95svx
p.s I've seen the "wiper wings" that add downforce when driving at high speeds. The local parts shops sell them pretty cheap.

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by kuoh
Perhaps the spring at the base of the wiper arm is just weakened from old age?

KuoH



I had the trouble with the wiper lifting off the windshield at speeds over 50 MPH until I replaced the blades with OE blades and refills. Problem solved. I don't understand WHY it's solved, but, it is.

I'd very much like to have the "Aerowipers" such as those developed for the Caprice/Impala Police Cruisers, but in its more refined form which is now found integrated into the entire arm on late model Camaros.

http://www.b-body.net/Technical/Exterior/9C1AeroWipers.html

[EverclearAtMSU]

how about a single wiper blade conversion, but done tastefully like on the upper class benzs

[kuoh]

Tastefully? Like the ricer tail lights in the new Lexus?

KuoH

[lee]

Beav,

I remember those wiper blade scales (ours were from Anco in those bright yellow cabinets). No telling how many blades it sold. What were some of the other scams? Seems like there was a trick to putting old and new ATF on a kleenex and watching how quickly it spread or something like that. I don't think I can remember the shop ever just tightening a belt - they always needed to be replaced if they had stretched "that much". I quit when they worked their way up to putting a can of brake fluid into a Ford auto trans and claiming they had replaced all the seals - although it did fix the symptom of lag to engage after a cold start.

As to cleaning windshields.

A local auto glass guy told me he uses bon-ami cleanser to clean up windshields. Or he said to use a bottle of the stuff used to clean ceramic stove tops if I had that. It doesn't scratch, but one caveat, it is polishing, so too many repeated applications may not be a great idea.

BTW, it makes the rain-x application better and less prone to streaks - maybe since the glass has a smoother starting base - have to think about it sometime when my brain cells are in a more cooperative mode.

[Beav]

Yeah, go to a GM parts counter and tell them you want the windshield polish stuff. They'll hand you a Delco box with a plastic bag of Bom-Ami inside. Personally I like CLR on the windshield. It removes grime and sun-baked waterspots from the glass. A heckuva lot less work and no chance of damage as long as you don't spill it on the paint.

The Ford tranny seals got hard with age and heat. A lot of internal pressure bypassed until the fluid warmed up enough to soften the seals. More than a handful of them popped wide open from people getting po'd first thing in the morning and gunning the engine in gear before the seals were warmed up. :eek: Instant hole through side of tranny...

I've been fortunate enough to have never worked for a schlock outfit, but I've worked with some shady individuals that I wouldn't put that stuff past.

[DavieGravy]

Originally posted by mohrds
Any paint job under $2000 is going to fail within a year or two. Those sprinkler deposits will come off, I've had them too.

Get some White scotch pads from a paint store. I can't remember the grit but luckily they are color coded. Use that to apply a good paint cleaner, scrubbing it to remove the mineral deposits. When finished, wax the car and you won't see them.

Be very cautious with getting a car painted. Lots of people will claim they got a great deal, but talk to them again four years later when it won't hold a shine or starts flaking off around windows, door handles, etc.

Materials close to OEM quality (which isn't great, by the way) will run a minimum of $800, and good quality materials (epoxy sealer, base coat and clear coat) will cost well over $1000. It takes about 40 hours to properly prep a car and another 10 hours to paint it if the painter is experienced. If not another 5 hours to wet sand the clear coat and buff out his orange peel or runs.

Doug

OK, you've talked me out of the paint job. Thanks for your suggestion, I'll try it. I also got a Black & Decker buffer machine on ebay for $7.00 :) I'll see how that works.

Dave.

[Boone]

D.
Only use an "orbital buffer" and carefully at that. Have you tried a little basic chemistry? White vinegar (dilute acetic acid) from the grocery store will dissolve any mineral deposits and not harm the paint. :p

[Boone]

Originally posted by red95svx
I loved the Rain X that you added to your washer fluid.....

The pink washer fluid they sell at the Mobil stations has Rain X in it. I've been using it for years... ;)

[DavieGravy]

Originally posted by Boone
D.
Only use an "orbital buffer" and carefully at that. Have you tried a little basic chemistry? White vinegar (dilute acetic acid) from the grocery store will dissolve any mineral deposits and not harm the paint. :p
The vinegar worked VERY well!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thankyou very much.

[svx1999]

Originally posted by red95svx
I loved the Rain X that you added to your washer fluid......every time you washed the windshield another coat of Rain X was applied. You could do this even if it was already raining. The stuff worked great but I can't find it any more:(

David

p.s I've seen the "wiper wings" that add downforce when driving at high speeds. The local parts shops sell them pretty cheap.

DOn't mean to sound over simplistic but Walmart seems to always have this washer fluid. I use to use it but I noticed it left spots on my paint where it shoots out of the sprayers. anything that leaves spots isn't GOOD. Rain X does say "Do not apply to paint".
So I stopped and just USe RainX.. Used it for many many many years now and For people like me who can't see worth beans at night, when it's raining.. TRUST RainX keeps you safe.. :D

Bon Ami is old Secret for removing rather stubborn deposite, like left over wiper residue that builds up. but it won't fully desolve a mineral I don't think. Bon ami has many uses.. It also helps that the Wiper blades themselves are Cleaned well. ALcohol followed by Either a product called Wiper restor, OR Slick stick works Very well. ALL this can be found at some Wal marts. Gota love that place.
Slick stick I think was made for dealers. If you can find it, buy a few. maybe 2 bucks..
you'll like it.. Does exactly what it sounds like. Makes them slick quite ( no stubbling) and GOOD as new.

One post mentioned that his wipers just spread the water around... um, ya either need some NEW ones or the blade is dirty and oxidized.. Rubber gets old and crappy.

CLR on your paint? I dunno about that one now.CLR on the glass makes sense. NOT on paint though.. Acid rain Etches paint over time.. GO to a detailer there is a large assortment of chemicals they use to polish it all out..

The greatest Paint I have seen is Emron. If I could find a correct color match and IF it would take some Mica flake or whatever it is.. Trust it would possibly end OUR Chipping hoods. It always looks "WET". Hard to scratch. and no it is not cheap.
but hey you won't have to ever paint it again. :)
Emron is used or was used on a lot of aircrafts. so it was made to withstand Extreme conditions.
Best to find someone who has used Emron before.. cause it's a bit different.

Just my 2 cents.
SVX1999

BTW 90mph in the rain. um the SVX is wonderfull in the rain, if you got GOOD tires. NO matter how good of a tire, standing water, and 90 mph.. hmm sounds like a BOAT to me.

[svx_commuter]

I could not believe my eyes this morning when I saw this old thread reappear. It is very informative. Thank you.
I would like to know if you use rain-X on your windshield as I think you have said that? I would also like to know what you would recommend to remove a film from the windshield? The film shows up when the wiper goes past and then fads away. I put on a new wiper and that helped for awhile but the film was still there. It just went away faster when the wiper went past. Now however the film is lasting longer. I have this on 2 of my cars and I think it may have come from Rain-x cleaner with anti-fog additive. So thanks for your 2 cents and what do we get for a nickel? :)

[Chicane]

I'd like to make a contribution as well. To anyone having a 'wiper liftoff' problem at highway speeds, I recommend purchasing some rather pricey Bosch triple edge wipers. Not only are they streak free, but the wiper 'frame' has a lot of holes in it, to help decrease wind resistence, thus it stays on the windshield better.

- Rob

PS: Anyone have a pic of factory OEM 'nubbed' wipers? I'd like to add nubs to mine so the blade does't get distorted when it rests on the wiper rests.

[SVXer95]

I have a friend that works @ Valeo wiper systems and he told me not to use Rain-X. He said that the stuff will eat away at your wipers and over time make them worse.

I also find the stuff very difficult to apply and never buffs out completely.

[Andy]

I can vouch for perfect screen clearance at 120mph in torrential rain for 2 hours continuous.

And the secret..............










































.....................all stock

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by Andy
I can vouch for perfect screen clearance at 120mph in torrential rain for 2 hours continuous.

And the secret..............
.....................all stock

I had trouble with wiper lift at about 60-80 MPH. I replaced the A/M wipers with the "nubby" OEM's and haven't had a bit of trouble since.

[red95svx]

SVX1999,

Yes, in the year and a half since I wrote that post, I have been able to find the rain-x washer fluid additive.

I think the stuff is awesome. No buffing, no rubbing.....just dump it in your washer fluid tank and wash your windshield with your squirters. I don't care if it does slowly eat away at your wipers. I'm not willing to risk life or limb just to save a few bucks on wipers. I'll take the improved rainy-night vision and replace my wipers more often if that's what it takes.



Dave

[svx_commuter]

Well I still have this film on my window :rolleyes: It's really hard to see when it is rainy and dark.

[Bobb]

Originally posted by svx_commuter
Well I still have this film on my window :rolleyes: It's really hard to see when it is rainy and dark.
Hi SVX_commuter, I think what you have is a combination of road crud and car wash wax. Even when I tell the guy not to put wax in the rinse water there is still some left from the last car that went through. I like Bob Ami, and I like the idea of Vineger for mineral deposits. Once you clean off the windshield, new blades are in order as the old blades will have a coating of crud on them and will spread it on the clean windshield to once again smear the glass. The only blade I have found that works at hi-way speeds, are the OEM blades. As a wiper blade extra, My Subaru Legacy has an airfoil on the driver side wiper arm. My wifes 2001 Ford Focus (ask me about this at Reading) has an airfoil on the driver side BLADE. This blade is a direct fit to the driver side blade on the SVX. No, it does not have the nub. NEXT

[Bobb]

Numero dos, I have tried the Bosch blades, and find that they lift at speed. Even with all the holes. In the last post I was talking about cars other than my SVX. Since I had my SVX refinished last spring, it has only been hand washed. So, whats the answer to clear streak free windshields. I'm looking at a force field. Take care, BOBB

P/S The Ford Focus blade frame is all metal(except the rubber blade) and is ouite a bit heavier than our SVX OEM balde. Also you used to be able to get OEM blade refills, but not anymore. Hey mike do you know someone at SOA parts that could get some of those? "B"

[svx_commuter]

Bobb :)
Thanks for the reply and I do agree that it is car wash wax. I have not been successful with the Bon Ami but I have found that 409 or Fantastic works well. I also agree with the wipers getting coated. So now I have to try the Bon Ami after I replace wipers again. Maybe I'll clen the waipers with 409. :)

I would like to hear about the Focus blades. See you then :)

John

[sfsvx]

Originally posted by DavieGravy


I have mineral deposits all over my FREAKING CAR from sprinklers. They won't come off. I've tried rubbing compound, paint cleaner, polish, and wax and I can't get it off no matter what I do. CLR is the only stuff I've used that works. Or should I say somewhat works. I've been rubbing it on my paint. But even that stuff only works about 40% I'm ready to say the F**K with it and get MACO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Try a vinegar solution. Work fast, it may eat the paint a little. ;)

Then wax it with the best wax I've ever found, Malm's Carnauba (available online). Expensive, but worth it.

[Bobb]

Originally posted by svx_commuter
Bobb :)

I would like to hear about the Focus blades. See you then :)

John

Hi John, The ford Focus blades are for a 2001 Ford Focus drivers side replacement blade. It has an airfoil on the blade but does not have the nub to lift the blade from the glass. I think that quite a few SVX do not have the OEM blade that came on the car when new. Those are my personel favorites, and although a little pricey are worth it. IMHO Take care, BOBB

[michael]

earlier in the thread there is mention of the scratches in the up & down front windows. Does anybody have a good method of removing them, aside from replacement.

[svx_commuter]

I have scratches as you say. I drove behind a concrete truck one hot dry day. The hard dust did them in. I talked with all the glass shops in my area and polishing was not recomended as it would take forever and the heat would most likely break the glass. So if anyone else has any fixes please let us know.

I have been thinking about polyureathane or some other kind of filler. Something that would work on the pitted windshield would be nice too.

[michael]

Has anybody tried this stuff http://www.asontv.com/products/1074648714.html
If so please let us know.

[svx_commuter]

I wonder what the directions are for that stuff. Place lense horizontal? :rolleyes: I could always just park on the side of hill. :D