Fifteen minute, $15.00 rear suspension mod.

[svxfiles]

I wanted to reduce the amount of play in the rear crossmember, without the noise or squeeking of hard polyurethane bushings.
In Advance Auto Parts "HELP" section, I came across these steering coupling discs, part # 31000.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/svxfiles/28369.jpg
They are just over 3" in diameter, and a little over 1/4" thick when compressed. Multiple layers of rubber and fabric and very durable.
They are perfect to use as shims in between the factory bushings, and the 3" in diameter rubber backed washer Subaru calls the "stopper diff mtg.

Jack up the car safely, and remove the two 17mm nuts that hold the stoppers in place.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/svxfiles/28373.jpg
Remove the washers.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/svxfiles/28368.jpg
Install the rubber rings, and the stoppers, and the nuts.
Tighten.
Lower the car and you are done. :)
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/svxfiles/28375.jpg
Tom.

[TomsSVX]

Way to steal my idea!!! Actually I am using something else and it will be firmer and cheaper... Anyone want to play some hockey??? ;) :D

Tom

[Chiketkd]

Nice. I'm going to get this done! Very straight-forward and elegant Tom!

-Chike

[svxfiles]

Way to steal my idea!!! Actually I am using something else and it will be firmer and cheaper... Anyone want to play some hockey??? ;) :D

Tom
Sorry, Lumpy. :(








:p

[TomsSVX]

Hey!! I didn't get personal about it.....




























































But Maybe I just have to
embarassing picture insert here:

:D :D :D :D

Tom

[svxfiles]

:o :o
So sorry, Tom. :o











Hows your forehead?

[SVXRide]

Tom,

Awesome mod! Wonder who's car that is... :rolleyes: :D :D

-Bill (Sunday can't come soon enough....)

[svxfiles]

It's MINE! MINE MINE MINE I tell you!

[TomsSVX]

It's ok it is all in good fun.. Anyway what I meant by my hockey comment is that I will be using a hockey puck for my bushings. I will cut them to my spec and add them to each side of the subframe bushings. I have explained it in my Projects at Hand thread

Tom :D

[svxfiles]

Cool. I have not seen that thread yet. I hope it works out.







BTW, Bill posession is 9/10ths of the law. :eek:



j/k :D

[SVXRide]

Cool. I have not seen that thread yet. I hope it works out.







BTW, Bill posession is 9/10ths of the law. :eek:



j/k :D

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :D :D :D :D
-Bill

[mbtoloczko]

Did it have any effect on handling or on driveline bounciness?

[Chiketkd]

Took me just 15 minutes - with most time spent putting the back end of my car up on jack stands. I don't have an air wrench or breaker bar, but I was able to get both nuts off using a thick 1/2" socket wrench, a 17mm socket and a bunch of elbow grease! :eek:

The parts ran me just under $15 from Advance, and the steering coupling discs definitely have a solid, firm feel to them:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/Chiketkd/28389.jpg

Sorry for the fuzziness of this pic, but a thunderstorm was about to start and I still had to lower my car from the jackstands:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/Chiketkd/28390.jpg

I'll take my car out for a spin tomorrow and report back. This mod should definitely tighten things up in our awd driveline and keep the rear diff from moving up and down so much with throttle input. :)

Brilliant mod Tom...simply brilliant! :cool:

-Chike

[Chiketkd]

Did it have any effect on handling or on driveline bounciness?
I'll find out soon enough. I'll say this, before installing the shims, approx 3 threads stuck out beyond the end of each nut. Right now I have the same 3 threads sticking out - which means the shims have effectively tightened up the rear subframe a 1/4" more!

-Chike

[mbtoloczko]

I'll find out soon enough. I'll say this, before installing the shims, approx 3 threads stuck out beyond the end of each nut. Right now I have the same 3 threads sticking out - which means the shims have effectively tightened up the rear subframe a 1/4" more!

-Chike

One thing I'm a little worried about is that you are raising up the rear diff slightly, this may have an effect on the driveshaft angles enough to cause some vibration at higher speeds. I was thinking it would be better to shim the top and bottom rather than just the bottom.

[SVXRide]

Mychailo,
I'll be driving my car back from Cumberland tomorrow, so I'll report in late Sunday or sometime Monday as to the ride. Granted, I'll be driving with all four race tires/rims in the back seat....
-Bill
p.s. Jesse did this mod months ago using poly "donut" washers from a Ford truck (?) I think and I don't think he's reported any problems related to it.

[Chiketkd]

One thing I'm a little worried about is that you are raising up the rear diff slightly, this may have an effect on the driveshaft angles enough to cause some vibration at higher speeds. I was thinking it would be better to shim the top and bottom rather than just the bottom.
We ran out of cokes in the house, so I took the opportunity to take my car for a drive in the ongoing thunderstorm. I took her up to 75mph and didn't notice any unusual vibrations or resonance. There is definitely a lot less play in the driveline when I back off the gas and get back on it again. I also 'feel' a few more bumps in the road but it's nothing severe or unbearable. All in all, it's a great mod anyone can do in their driveway!

-Chike

P.S. I don't think the position of the rear diff in relation to the transmission will change much from this mod. The metal surrounding the rubber bushing in the rear crossmember, will prevent the crossmember from being raised higher than a certain pre-set point. Even though I was able to get the nuts to the same location they were in before installing the shims, I don't think I relocated the rear crossmember by a 1/4" higher, just took out a lot of play! :eek:

[TomsSVX]

when I make my shims, I will shim both top and bottom

Tom

[Chiketkd]

when I make my shims, I will shim both top and bottom

Tom
As you're using a harder material (hockey puck) than Tom and I used, it will be more difficult to compress and may actually relocate your rear crossmember more. I also think using two 1/4" shims (1/2" combined) will be too much - I don't think you'll be able to get the nut back on (if you plan on keeping the stoppers). Two 1/8" shims would be much better... :)

-Chike

[TomsSVX]

I am gonna go with the 1/4" first an if that doesn't work... ill try something else

Tom

[oab_au]

I am gonna go with the 1/4" first an if that doesn't work... ill try something else

Tom

Good, easy mod Tom.
It won't change the height of the diff, as the washer is still tightened up to the subframe. The packing just squezzing up the soft fingers of rubber, to make it harder.
Good one. :)
Harvey. ;)

[Chiketkd]

Good, easy mod Tom.
It won't change the height of the diff, as the washer is still tightened up to the subframe. The packing just squezzing up the soft fingers of rubber, to make it harder.
Good one. :)
Harvey. ;)
My thoughts exactly Harv... ;)

-Chike

[Chiketkd]

...with a good portion of it spent on the interstate driving at 80-90mph+. There's definitely no weird vibrations from the driveshaft at these higher speeds and my car cruised effortlessly with traffic. I still noticed significantly less play in the drivetrain than before, but it's far from perfect. I imagine the soft transmission and engine mounts are partially to blame...

-Chike

[TomsSVX]

well I may just do this instead of the hockey pucks, I cannot find them anywhere!!!!! So I gotta find these little bad boys at my local parts store

Tom

[Chiketkd]

well I may just do this instead of the hockey pucks, I cannot find them anywhere!!!!! So I gotta find these little bad boys at my local parts store

Tom
Tom,

Let me know if you're able to find them at the parts store. If not, I'd be happy to pick you up a set and mail them to you. :)

-Chike

[Subafreak]

well I may just do this instead of the hockey pucks, I cannot find them anywhere!!!!! So I gotta find these little bad boys at my local parts store

Tom


Good call, I'm sure they work just as well as a harder material but with much less chance of cutting a finger off making them. ;)

[TomsSVX]

I am prone to breaking tools, not myself, this was an isolated incident :rolleyes: :D

Tom

[Chiketkd]

I am prone to breaking tools, not myself, this was an isolated incident :rolleyes: :D

Tom
Were you able to find the steering coupling discs Tom? :confused:

-Chike

[Green1995SVX]

Well I gave it a try today, but couldnt get the bolts out. Stupid Pittsburgh car. :mad:

[Chiketkd]

Well I gave it a try today, but couldnt get the bolts out. Stupid Pittsburgh car. :mad:
PB Blaster overnight and a breaker bar outta do it! ;)

I was actually pleasantly surpised mine came off so easily. Winters in VA aren't too bad, but they do salt and treat the roads with chemicals quite a bit.

-Chike

[Green1995SVX]

PB Blaster overnight and a breaker bar outta do it! ;)

I was actually pleasantly surpised mine came off so easily. Winters in VA aren't too bad, but they do salt and treat the roads with chemicals quite a bit.

-Chike

You're forgetting I take apart svx's for a living. ;) I know all the tricks. :p

[NikFu S.]

These things are $9.49 a piece up here and the location I went to only had one pack left :/
So I gotta go all the way across town tomorrow to hopefully get another. :\

[Chiketkd]

These things are $9.49 a piece up here and the location I went to only had one pack left :/
So I gotta go all the way across town tomorrow to hopefully get another. :\
The darn shipping to AK always adds a premium. :( Hope you find a second pack! :)

-Chike

[NikFu S.]

The darn shipping to AK always adds a premium. :( Hope you find a second pack! :)

-Chike
I did and it was the last one there as well. :D

[Chiketkd]

I did and it was the last one there as well. :D
Nice going Nick! :cool:

After I pick up a set for a friend tomorrow, I'll have cleaned my town of the last pair! :eek: :D

-Chike

[87f383]

Doing this this weekend... what is the torque spec when replacing the nut?

[svxfiles]

Doing this this weekend... what is the torque spec when replacing the nut?
94-116 ft/lb, according to our shop computer. :)

[TomsSVX]

I will be doing mine this weekend also once I get my shims. I will be using the same things as to save my digits from being remved during the fab of hockey pucks :eek: :D

Tom

[LarryIII]

Way to steal my idea!!! Actually I am using something else and it will be firmer and cheaper... Anyone want to play some hockey??? ;) :D

Tom


Tom,

I have some official NHL pucks, autographed by a certain Flyer goalie. I wonder if this mod will make the SVX play better on the ice? :D :D :D

[Hocrest]

Tom,

I have some official NHL pucks, autographed by a certain Flyer goalie. I wonder if this mod will make the SVX play better on the ice? :D :D :D

Don't do it Larry... You're car will run good all year and then stop running completely next May :rolleyes:

[Bwana]

Just to make sure...the suspension has to be un-loaded to do this, right? I've got a nice set of ramps sitting in the garage, and i havent found a reason to use them yet.

[svxfiles]

Just to make sure...the suspension has to be un-loaded to do this, right? I've got a nice set of ramps sitting in the garage, and i havent found a reason to use them yet.
The ramps will do fine.
As long as you can reach it, and break the nuts loose you can do it.

[NikFu S.]

The ramps will do fine.
As long as you can reach it, and break the nuts loose you can do it.
So the wheels don't have to be off the ground?
If not I'll go outside and do it right now seeing as my jack was stolen.

[Bwana]

I just did it w/o even raising the car off the ground. I could reach the nut from the side of the car, right in front of the rear wheel. (without ramps...)

I did however have to jack up the sub-frame in order to re-thread the nut.

Havent driven the car yet, so no impressions, but I'm sure the ones posted in here already are more informative then anything I could offer anyway. :p

edit: The nuts also broke loose relatively easy...and that's after 10 years of Wisconsin/Chicago winters.

[NikFu S.]

Benn going at it for a good 40 minutes and the right one came off after some tuggin but the left was kinda soft and mushy in comparison.

How does one remove a nut that has been stripped with a crescent wrench? :mad:

I have half a mind to get some channel locks and just tear it in half.

edit:
Apparently there is a tool to use in this situation. Someone I know checking to see if they have one or if it's 80 miles away at the racetrack....

edit2: That's a big negatory. I'm outta luck tonight.

[Earthworm]

Crescent wrenches are bad m'kay.

[ssnsltd]

[QUOTE=How does one remove a nut that has been stripped with a crescent wrench? :mad:[/QUOTE]

TIG weld the wrench to the nut first, then it will work.

Seriously though, they have several wrenches at Sears, K-mart and Walmart along with most auto parts stores that clamp down harder on the nut the more you put pressure on the wrench.

They look like these :Grip Wrench (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91479) The ones I bought are solid though.

[NikFu S.]

Yeah I'm privy to all that but some recent bank transfers were 4 days late so I thought I had some dime when I didn't and now I'm $9 in the hole until Thursday. :rolleyes:
So no fancy tools.

[ssnsltd]

now that does suck

[NikFu S.]

now that does suck
The thing that killed me was an impromptu lunch break at "China King", this crazy crazy buffet. I NEVER go to restaraunts for lunch let alone oriental ones, but my partner is/was a huge Samoan and you don't say no when they want food. :p

So like when we get there I am the only one with "money" and I end up paying for both of us because I'm the ninja and so cool.

That transfer is still pending too, so when it clears I'm sure I'll be slapped with a ~$30 overdraft fee. :rolleyes:
My month just won't be complete without another one of those.

:/

[TomsSVX]

I did not like what thi mod did to my car... had a good friend ship me some as I have none around here. Upon installation I found the car to be much more responsive. When I took it on the highway, it made a very deep vibration that I did not like anywhere from 70mph and up. Maybe I will give it a try again with the new X-member

Tom

[svxfiles]

Tom, I just now got a chance to do a 100mph+ run, and I had no vibrations related to the crossmember mod.
I do have a rear bearing howling, but other than that it was fine. :)

BTW, the hood now has the buffers installed, (those two screw in rubber bumpers that contact the radiator support), but not the three hood gaskets, and it was rock solid at 100+. :cool:

[TomsSVX]

Good news on the hood... Like I said, maybe I will reinstall them when I get my X-member finished. Still need to thinka bout what I am gonna do about a hood for the ride down. I think A lot of tape may help :eek: :D

Tom

[svxfiles]

I can see it now;
Why yes Officer it IS a cardboard hood, it was designed by a NASA engineer, to lighten the car for, for, for better gas milage! :D
If you don't believe me, just call him at the NASA Research and Development, Special Vehicles Center. :o

[TomsSVX]

It is legal to drive with no hood as long as there are no exposed fans... Since we all have electric fans with shrouds.. I have no probelms... :D

Tom

[SVXRide]

I can see it now;
Why yes Officer it IS a cardboard hood, it was designed by a NASA engineer, to lighten the car for, for, for better gas milage! :D
If you don't believe me, just call him at the NASA Research and Development, Special Vehicles Center. :o

Hey, I resemble that remark.... :p :cool: :D
-Bill

[strange179]

I know this is an older thread but I've been reading through it and the other one about making custom bushing spacers out of sheet material. I just went down to the local part stores and found two of the steering couplers. Autozone had Help! part #31005 which looks pertty much identical to the #31000 I got at Robbins. However, the superfluous hardware that comes with the bushings is different between the kits. The 31000 is for "domestic" vehicles and the 31005 if for "Ford" vehicles. This makes me wonder if there might be any other part numbers that have the same bushing in them.

Jay

[svxfiles]

I have used both spacers with identical results, but the 31000s are a buck cheaper. :)

[NeedForSpeed]

It's been a few months, any more observations with the mod?

Jon and I were removing his rear diff. Referring to the diff cross member, Jon said, 'Is that supposed to move around like that?" I replied, 'svxfiles didn't think so either!'.

[Budfreak]

It's been a few months, any more observations with the mod?

Jon and I were removing his rear diff. Referring to the diff cross member, Jon said, 'Is that supposed to move around like that?" I replied, 'svxfiles didn't think so either!'.

I have no complaints. It definitely makes the car fell more sure footed in turns and more responsive. Nothing bad to report on this mod at all.:)

[svxfiles]

It's been a few months, any more observations with the mod?

Jon and I were removing his rear diff. Referring to the diff cross member, Jon said, 'Is that supposed to move around like that?" I replied, 'svxfiles didn't think so either!'.
14 months and 4 days since I posted and it was installed before that Ron.:rolleyes: :eek:
Time sure flys for you old guys! :eek: :eek:
Actually absolutely no drawbacks to this mod that I have observed.:D
I've got three sets in the claret, but the one I wrote about makes the most differance!:)
My poly anti-sway bar bushings squeak on my back road, (I need to grease them)
YOU know that road, the REAL bumpy, winding, one,,,,, the one with the cliff on the 90, 300' above the Potomac!:eek: ;)

[TomsSVX]

the one with the cliff on the 90, 300' above the Potomac!:eek: ;)

yeah, i know that one:eek: :)

TOm

[svxash]

So I just finished this mod and it was very easy to do. It also made a noticeable difference in ride quality.

[svxfiles]

So I just finished this mod and it was very easy to do. It also made a noticeable difference in ride quality.
:)And less thumps from the rear suspension while accelerating.:cool:

[svxash]

Now I just need to replace the sway bar bushings in the front because it's making a clunking sound over bumps.

[svxfiles]

Now I just need to replace the sway bar bushings in the front because it's making a clunking sound over bumps.

You should replace those with poly ones.:)

[svxash]

You should replace those with poly ones.:)

Best place to get them?

[svxfiles]

Earthworm had some made up for our cars, but if He is out PM me.:)

[Nomad]

For how much ?

[dannmarr]

I've installed these and it works well. But I believe we need to add them above the cross member too because the weight is mostly resting on the top part.

[svxfiles]

I've installed these and it works well. But I believe we need to add them above the cross member too because the weight is mostly resting on the top part.

I have had three sets on my Claret since I did my first set:p, to stiffen up the subframe to car mounts.
I could only feel the differance the first set makes.

[juice]

I just ordered the parts to do this to my 96. should have them in 5 days, will post pics within 2 weeks

[juice]

I decided not to take pics since there are already some on here. But it's all true it's inexpensiveeasy to install ( 15 min ) and does make a good change in ride quality.

[Johnybeas]

bump for part number from autozone we don't have advance in utah (had it in fl :( still have a gift card i need to use!)

[oregondave]

bump for part number from autozone we don't have advance in utah (had it in fl :( still have a gift card i need to use!)

bump agreed need part # for shucks or napa here in Orygun.

Oops ran a search found that the part # is the same at either advance or autozone and we have the latter her. This should answer your question Johnybeas, it's #31000.

[James Scott]

Would this MOD be appropriate for my SVX if I already have poly swaybar bushings.. ?? :confused:

Thanks, Jim :D

[svxfiles]

Yes, however the price went up slightly in the last six years.

[James Scott]

I thot I'd ask before installing.. . BUT, I bot for $8 each at Autozone last nite.. . :cool:

So, this crossmember supports the rear diff.. and allows some wobble.. or noise in drivetrain function.. . but doesn't actually affect the rear suspension directly.. . RiGhT? :confused:

Thanks, Jim :D

[James Scott]

I have had three sets on my Claret since I did my first set:p, to stiffen up the subframe to car mounts.
I could only feel the differance the first set makes.

When you say three sets.. Do you mean three different pairs you used.. in the same two mounts we're talking about here? I'm a little slow.. . Or do you mean installed somewhere else.. like above AND below rubber coated washers.. or subframe mounts.. ?? Sorry.. I'm Old... ReAlLy OLD! :confused:

Thanks, Jim :D

[James Scott]

BTW... When I looked up this rear crossmember part in the OEM manual (under AWD System, SEC 2&3, 3-4, pg 9).. It appears the torque spec is about 39-48 ft-lbs. [If you were torqueing to 100+ ft-lbs.. . maybe that's why the same 3 threads were showing? .. Ha!] Does this nut bottom out.. metal to metal? I guess it'd have to.. or it'd come loose.

So, with this MOD, the added rubber (tire donuts) cushions take over.. for not only the up/down movement (rubber stoppers).. but also for the torsional movement.. normally controlled by the crossmember bushing that the threaded post passes thru.. right? [Because the cushions take up all up/down slack.. but also press so hard on the outer rim of the crossmember bushing.. the bushing rubber is no longer in play.] Hmmm? :rolleyes:

Interesting.. .

Thanks, Jim :D

[svxfiles]

BTW... When I looked up this rear crossmember part in the OEM manual (under AWD System, SEC 2&3, 3-4, pg 9).. It appears the torque spec is about 39-48 ft-lbs. [If you were torqueing to 100+ ft-lbs.. . maybe that's why the same 3 threads were showing? .. Ha!] Does this nut bottom out.. metal to metal? I guess it'd have to.. or it'd come loose.

So, with this MOD, the added rubber (tire donuts) cushions take over.. for not only the up/down movement (rubber stoppers).. but also for the torsional movement.. normally controlled by the crossmember bushing that the threaded post passes thru.. right? [Because the cushions take up all up/down slack.. but also press so hard on the outer rim of the crossmember bushing.. the bushing rubber is no longer in play.] Hmmm? :rolleyes:

Interesting.. .

Thanks, Jim :D
Yes, all six subframe bolts.
The subframe is a VERY substantial structural member.
The body is also a very strong structrural member.
By bolting them together, THEY become stronger and flex less.

[James Scott]

It seems their purpose is to give some flex, but mainly support to the suspension and drivetrain. So, this MOD just stiffens the flex up.. resulting in better driveability.. . THAT's WILD! (Johnny Carson)

COOL! :cool:

Seems like you could do it with the car on the ground.. or wud the crossmember drop when unbolted due to weight of rear diff.. ?

Thanks, Jim :D

[svxfiles]

"I" could not wiggle under an SVX WITHOUT it at least being up on ramps.
If you do one side at at a time it does not drop too much.
I have no idea of what James Scott, or anyone else can/could be speaking of!
"This can't be happening, This cannot be happening!

[James Scott]

"I" could not wiggle under an SVX WITHOUT it at least being up on ramps.
If you do one side at at a time it does not drop too much.
I am speaking of the Official Fifteen Minute mod, not the top secret overkill that I did.(do:rolleyes:)

PEES! .. Oh PLEEEZ! Tell us.. the ToP SeCrEt OvErKiLL MOD.. ??? :eek:

[I bet its adding the cushions.. while driving! .. . :D

Oh NO! Now I know .. . It's the 6-cushion SpEcIaL! .. Huh!? ;)

Jim

[svxfiles]

PEES! .. Oh PLEEEZ! Tell us.. the ToP SeCrEt OvErKiLL MOD.. ??? :eek:

[I bet its adding the cushions.. while driving! .. . :D

Oh NO! Now I know .. . It's the 6-cushion SpEcIaL! .. Huh!? ;)

Jim

DUDE?!
What are you talkin about?!:p

[James Scott]

Boy.. It really IS Top Secret! :eek: :lol:

[long day..]

[James Scott]

OK! .. Got 15 Min MOD in place! Seems tighter stiffer suspension in rear. I like.

Just need the 15 Min FRONT SUSPENSION MOD now! :eek:

I guess it's the Motor Mounts and AT Mount.. as mentioned earlier.. .

Thanks for the idea SVXfiles et al!

Jim :D

[svxfiles]

OK! .. Got 15 Min MOD in place! Seems tighter stiffer suspension in rear. I like.

Just need the 15 Min FRONT SUSPENSION MOD now! :eek:

I guess it's the Motor Mounts and AT Mount.. as mentioned earlier.. .

Thanks for the idea SVXfiles et al!

Jim :D

Go with the Poly front bushings on the front,
and rear, with the Twenty Minute Mod in back,
OR the Poly bushings in front and an upgraded REAR bar that comes with rear Polys!
Nevin has one now,
Dayle (Motorsports Warehouse) is going to come out with one.

[James Scott]

What is the 20 Min Mod? :confused:
The 4 more rubber washers on the rear subframe? :confused:
I thot U said they dint make any noticeable difference.. ?? :WTF:

Thanks :D

[svxfiles]

What is the 20 Min Mod? :confused:
The 4 more rubber washers on the rear subframe? :confused:
I thot U said they dint make any noticeable difference.. ?? :WTF:

Thanks :D

The Twenty Minute Mod is a set of self lubricating bronze bushings/rubber inserts/bolts/self locking nuts that replace the soft spongey factory rear anti-sway bar to link bushings.



Just send me money!:eek:



:D

[James Scott]

Got any pics, Bro? :cool:

I have poly bushings in the rear (and front) .. Wud I still use them?

Why can't .. or don't you MOD the fronts.. ? :confused:

Sure! .. . I send $$$$$$$ !!! :eek: (Pero, poquito solamente, por favor .. :lol:)

Thanks.. :D

[svxfiles]

Got any pics, Bro? :cool:

I have poly bushings in the rear (and front) .. Wud I still use them?

Why can't .. or don't you MOD the fronts.. ? :confused:

Sure! .. . I send $$$$$$$ !!! :eek: (Pero, poquito solamente, por favor .. :lol:)

Thanks.. :D
Pictures and explanations in this thread;

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=40059&highlight=Twenty+Minute+Mod

[Will]

Just got parts for 15 Min Mod from advanced. However one disk seems to be about 2mil thicker than the other. They are both part#31000. Would this make any difference or can I just roll with it?

[svxfiles]

How thick are they?





It should be fine.

[Will]

About "Yay" thick. Thanks!

[svxfiles]

About "Yay" thick. Thanks!

Kids. :rolleyes:

I just opened two packages and got 0.34", and 0.32"


The idea is to eleminate the gap/slop in the mounting point.:)

[Will]

Well this is definitely not a 15min job for a fwd! It appears that I have to take the sway bar loose to get the bracket loose enough to insert the new discs. Does that sound about right? I have a completely different set-up than the one you have pictured.

[icingdeath88]

Well this is definitely not a 15min job for a fwd! It appears that I have to take the sway bar loose to get the bracket loose enough to insert the new discs. Does that sound about right? I have a completely different set-up than the one you have pictured.

Take some pics while you're under there if you can, so we know for future reference.

Also, this mod would do very little for a FWD car compared to an AWD car because there's no driveline back there to need stiffening. I mean it couldn't hurt, but you shouldn't expect much.

[Will]

Take some pics while you're under there if you can, so we know for future reference.

Also, this mod would do very little for a FWD car compared to an AWD car because there's no driveline back there to need stiffening. I mean it couldn't hurt, but you shouldn't expect much.

Yeah I didn't really think it would have done much for me. Just thought I would give it a try, until I saw what it would consist of. I don't really want to touch that rear sway bar until I'm replacing it with one from Nevin. Maybe then I will give it a try. I will be sure to include pics as well for reference. Thanks for your response!

[kjoyes]

just did the 15 minute mod,
my suggestion would be to use 2 car jacks one for jacking up the car, and the other for jacking up the rear crossmember. the 2nd jack take alot of the pressure off of the bolt when you are taking it off and, when puting the bolt back on it removes the slake. This makes the mod much easier than it already is to do.
Then you don't have to fight with the car, and you can position the rubber spacer to where you want it.

[injuhneer]

I wanted to reduce the amount of play in the rear crossmember, without the noise or squeeking of hard polyurethane bushings.
In Advance Auto Parts "HELP" section, I came across these steering coupling discs, part # 31000.

SNIP

Install the rubber rings, and the stoppers, and the nuts.
Tighten.
Lower the car and you are done. :)

Tom.

Well done and simple. Common sense goes a long way. :)

Now if we can just get the same level of common sense applied to adapting or cross-referencing consumables for our cars all will be well.

-Mike O

[gwynethh]

We are finishing up our cheap suspension mods like poly bushings and the 20$ and 15$ mods. We have a problem with one of the nuts that we need to remove for the 15$ mod. We have tried PB blaster applied over 3 days with no luck. We use a 6 point socket on a normal 3/8" drive ratchet handle extended about a foot for a better pull but no luck. We are a bit concerned about breaking the male threaded piece with a stronger pull. We also don't want to heat the nut being concerned about cooking the rubber parts. We also have tried the suggestion to take the load off the nut by jacking up the arm.

The only idea we have now is to use a dremel and vertically slot the nut to open it up or split it with a small (1" dia.) cut-off wheel. Before we try this do any of you have any other ideas to get this stubborn thing free?

[svxfiles]

Before we try this do any of you have any other ideas to get this stubborn thing free?

Do you have a nut splitter?
Advance Auto Parts has one in their big pipe expander kit.
And they will loan you the kit.

[Tireiron]

Having let it sit longer with the PB, I would still try and heat it a little, but not enough to smoke the bushings. Those are really strong thick bolts and will take a lot to really break. I find with PB, a little bit of heat, and an impact gun it will take them right off. I've actually never needed more than an impact gun for those bolts on any of the subarus I have worked on, and I live in new england, the rust capitol of the world.

[gwynethh]

Well after several days of on and off soaking with PB Blaster and (per a neighbors recommended) Mouse Milk still no luck with an impact gun and my wimpy home use compressor. My neighbor rolled over his old school shop compressor with a bigger delivery hose and success at the same indicated delivery pressure as ours. Still need to get a new nut but that appears to it for this particular saga. Thanx to you all for: 1 the mod idea and 2 all the help getting the little pain in the neck nut free.

[svxcess]

.

I am going out to svxfiles this weekend and take a couple of regulation-size hockey pucks to use for this mod.


http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzAwWDMwMA==/z/zCUAAOxyK~hRHYTs/$(KGrHqF,!pUFD2b164JZBRHYTsOC2g~~60_35.JPG?set_id= 8800004005


They are heated and formed under pressure of vulcanized rubber, measure 1" thick and 3" in diameter. Easy to drill and do not flatten or bulge under weight.

This is all I use between my floor jack and pinch welds. No damage to either when jacking my car.



Some muscle cars use them in fabricating replacement mounts.

Less than $2.00 each.

.

[svxfiles]

.

I am going out to svxfiles this weekend and take a couple of regulation-size hockey pucks to use for this mod.


http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzAwWDMwMA==/z/zCUAAOxyK~hRHYTs/$(KGrHqF,!pUFD2b164JZBRHYTsOC2g~~60_35.JPG?set_id= 8800004005


They are heated and formed under pressure of vulcanized rubber, measure 1" thick and 3" in diameter. Easy to drill and do not flatten or bulge under weight.

This is all I use between my floor jack and pinch welds. No damage to either when jacking my car.



Some muscle cars use them in fabricating replacement mounts.

Less than $2.00 each.

.

Drug testing?!:eek:

[alia176]

I did this mod and it's a great band aid that may end up being a permanent mod. Looks like the inner sleeve of the bushings have separated from the rubber part and that's why they move up/down under load, particularly when shifting from P to R or to D. Doing the bushings means dropping the entire cross member deal that's attached to the diff, then pressing in/out the bushings. Not a super big deal for some but this mod should go a long way.