Koni bolt ons? Who would build them

[TomsSVX]

I am looking to upgrade to the koni inserts. Is there anyone on the board who will sell me a bolt on strut kit on a core return basis? Let me know.

Tom

[SVXer95]

It's really not all that hard to do. Are you just worried about the downtime? I did all four in one weekend. It would have taken a lot less time if I had better tools. I would say that the most time consuming part is removing the struts from the car.

[mbtoloczko]

I'm looking into having Dave Clark Motorsports in Seattle build and sell a bolt-on strut kit. He's got a business license, so he should be able to get the Koni inserts at a good price. I'm thinking of combining the Koni's with some stiffer strut springs or some moderate rate coil-overs.

[shotgunslade]

I would buy a set in a heartbeat. Also, your upsized rear sway bar. :D :D

__________________________________________________ ______________
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[Earthworm]

It's really not all that hard to do. Are you just worried about the downtime? I did all four in one weekend. It would have taken a lot less time if I had better tools. I would say that the most time consuming part is removing the struts from the car.Like he said.

Actually the first one will take about as long to do as the other 3 combined.

[TomsSVX]

i may just do them mysef. What is the best spring/coilover to use with them?

Tom

[Earthworm]

Currently there's only the ground controls available.

[Jvan]

I need to replace both front and rear struts and though I'd upgrade to Koni. Please explain what needs to be done to install Koni struts if not just a bolt in replacement? Does it require special tools or knowledge?

[RojoRocket]

Jvan,
If you're familiar with general strut type suspension work, removing the assembly from the car, using a spring compressor and handtools to dismantle the assembly, that is the starting point for the Koni install. Here's a step by step job description for an Impreza, basically the same job.
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=472&highlight=suspension
some pics: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36 including a pass-through ratchet used to hold the strut shaft stationary while removing the top nut (easily spun off with an air wrench).

I found the hardest part to be deciphering the small illustrations with international symbology, since the inserts didn't come with written instructions. One begins with the original strut and new insert, measuring the distance from top of the strut body to the nubs on the Koni and marking the OEM body the amount matching that measurement on the "instruction" sheet. Unlike carpentry, measure 4 times, then again, cut once! The intent is to leave the body long enough that when the Koni is inserted and bolted down into it the nubs are pulled well inside, immobilizing the insert. I marked around the body numerous times, placed it in a vice and cut with a hacksaw, working around the body so as to cut evenly and not break through until well started all the way around. Once completely cut lift the old shaft/innards out, dump any oil still inside, debur the cut and clean out the now empty OEM body. The Koni's come with a rubber sleeve that fits around, and inside the cut edge tightly but allowing the insert to pass through. Appears to be a water seal.

Now carefully mark the center of the round bottom of the body and drill the specified size hole DEAD CENTER, again cleaning up all shavings, etc. You're now ready to insert the Koni. The supplied allen head bolt fits up through the drilled hole and should just contact and start into the threaded receptacle in the Koni, IF you measured and drilled accurately. As the bolt is tightened it pulls the insert down into the body until the nubs disappear and the insert bottoms out in the body. Reassemble the new strut into the spring, bumpstop, cone washer and tophat . Repeat 3 more times and they're ready to go back in the car!

My apologies for the semi-hijack of the thread guys, and please feel free to correct me if I got anything wrong here. I took most of a weekend and a 12pk of Bud to complete the job, but being an AARP member I may have forgotten some detail here. ;)

Glenn

[THAWA]

Dayle should make these.

[Jvan]

thanks for the update on how to do this. I didn't want to hijack the thread but I wasn't sure what the topic was about. Koni seemjs to be the way to go for replacements.

[drivemusicnow]

Okay, i'm going to bring up some ideas, and we need some brains to consider this....

One of the best options that i've heard of for the eclipse, is using "Hypercoil" brand springs. These are the same springs used in race cars from F1 to nascar to WRC. because of the, scale of economics is on our side, and you can get them for about 60$ apeice. basically, they're the best springs you can get, very consistant in spring rates, and won't ever sag. they also hold their value very well, so you can still sell them for most of what you paid for them.

Now, if we use these, and a coilover setup on the koni shock, i think we could get the best setup optimized for our cars. I have NO CLUE how to calculat the motion ratios of the front and rear, however i'm sure theres some people on here who do... can we figure out what the BEST spring rates are for our car, with the koni shocks?? i think that this would be a better option then the GC/koni option, and allow more customization based on car dynamics, and preferences.

[SVXRide]

I'm looking into having Dave Clark Motorsports in Seattle build and sell a bolt-on strut kit. *snip* some moderate rate coil-overs.

Koni/coil-over R&D tester reporting for duty!! PM/email me with details!! :D :cool:
-Bill (an extremely satisfied "Mbtoloczko springs" and "Wawazat? Koni" customer)

[mbtoloczko]

.... can we figure out what the BEST spring rates are for our car, with the koni shocks?? i think that this would be a better option then the GC/koni option, and allow more customization based on car dynamics, and preferences.

IMO, there really isn't a "perfect spring rate" for the Koni's. Porter had the rebound cranked all the way up with the 380f/330(-ish)r springs, so you probably shouldn't go with a rate any higher than what he used. I'd say that the Koni's can work well with anything from the OEM spring rate to the rates that Porter used. Within that range, you just need to make sure that the front and rear rates are matched to give the handling character you want. I'd probably try for something like 280f/230r and then adjust the handling with a rear swaybar.

[TomsSVX]

so basically since i just need new struts and want better handling i should stick with my oem springs to salvage a little of my ride comfort? I don't want to bounce all over the road yet i want to stick to it with minimal roll. If i can and should keep my stock springs this would save buco bux. Thanks guys

Tom