PDA

View Full Version : No start (actually starts then dies)


benebob
05-03-2005, 09:36 AM
Okay the race car is still not running. It is getting fuel to the manifold but won't run for more than a few seconds then dies. The idle is pretty rough as well. No codes inside so I'm kinda at a loss. It died while on course kind of sputtered (like she was running out of gas) then nothing since. Any ideas on where to start looking next? I've replaced the fuel pump relay with one from the headlights and it does the same thing.

svxfiles
05-03-2005, 09:52 AM
We just had this happen on an Outback after a head gasket job, it turned out to be a PCV line disconected from a valve cover...
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure when running, and as it shuts off?

svxfiles
05-03-2005, 09:56 AM
Did you remove the charcoal canister and plug the lines? Maybe you are drawing a vacuum on the gas tank? Try removing the gas cap :)

benebob
05-03-2005, 11:53 AM
Yes, removed the evaporator canister but I put it back on this pm. Still nothing. I do have a gauge but not the hookups to get it on a subie line.

It pumps like a mother on the start position (but doesn't while the key is on, on and it isn't running). I'm assuming that is correct. Timing belt looks lined up but I didn't count teeth (gotta love not having a cover there to verify that aspect).

svxfiles
05-03-2005, 12:29 PM
If it's a mechanical gauge, you can just use a hardware store T-fitting in the line between the fuel filter, and the intake manifold.

benebob
05-03-2005, 12:37 PM
Okay well its nice to have another running SVX in the driveway to decifer issues with.

The race car isn't pumping fuel when the key is in the on position. It does however pump while in the start position.

My 95 is pumping fuel in the on position. So now we at least know that it isn't getting fuel when it should. Removed the known good relay (shiney silver relay on the back side of the ecu and swapped still nothing). Now what do I swap?

benebob
05-03-2005, 02:14 PM
Well we were running without the fuel pump modulator. I put that back in and it still is doing the same thing. No fuel at on but fuel when key is in the start position. :confused:

I'm just wondering how the car ran well w/o the modulator? And why that wouldn't fix the issue. :rolleyes:

svxfiles
05-03-2005, 02:42 PM
On my claret 92, when I turn the key to on,(engine not started) the fuel pressure goes up to 35 psi, and after 10 seconds it drops off to 3 psi.
(I attribute that to a leaking fuel injector.)
With the engine running, and 14.3 volts being pumped out by the alternator, the psi stays at 39-40 at idle.
SVXRide has a inline gauge on his 92, lets check his out. :)

Note;
When I first installed my adjustable fpr, the pressure would stay up for hours with the engine off.

KCROGUEDOG
05-03-2005, 02:52 PM
with the maf harness disconnected car will start and die instantly. maybe it got knocked loose.

SVXRide
05-03-2005, 03:04 PM
On my claret 92, when I turn the key to on,(engine not started) the fuel pressure goes up to 35 psi, and after 10 seconds it drops off to 3 psi.
(I attribute that to a leaking fuel injector.)
With the engine running, and 14.3 volts being pumped out by the alternator, the psi stays at 39-40 at idle.
SVXRide has a inline gauge on his 92, lets check his out. :)

Note;
When I first installed my adjustable fpr, the pressure would stay up for hours with the engine off.

Ben,
I'll check fuel pressure when I get home --- I actually drove the SVX to work today! If memory serves me right, I've got ~42psi when the engine is running and it will hold at that when I shut the engine off. It does bleed down over night, I'm just not sure how long it takes before it bleeds down to 0psi.
-Bill

benebob
05-03-2005, 03:57 PM
Well in the on position the race car has 0psis. The fuel pump isn't pumping but pumps just fine in the start position. I've swapped the relay, fp regulator on the rear deck and the resister on the rear deck. Still nothing.

SVXRide
05-03-2005, 06:07 PM
Ben,
Okay, I checked when I first got home and here's what I got:

At idle = ~32psi

Engine off, ignition switch turned to "on" = ~42psi

After ~ 1 hour it was down to ~40psi

-Bill

benebob
05-03-2005, 08:07 PM
I reattached the exhaust (which came off when one of the rubber straps broke on that last run).

The car started right up. It is now running just fine. Plenty of gas when the key is in on and it isn't running. Now why would this be or is it just a fluke that it is back to starting?

The only thing that I can think of is that since I have the rear pipe under the trunk strapped with metal straps to keep it in place that it is providing a ground. I know I'm reaching but will remove the exhaust in the am and see if it starts.

svxfiles
05-03-2005, 09:30 PM
Thats weird :confused:

But you can never have too many grounds.

benebob
05-04-2005, 08:24 AM
Thats weird :confused:

But you can never have too many grounds.

Well the theory holds as of now. Started the car. She ran 100%. Removed the metal straps holding the exhaust pipe on and she won't start again. Who would've thought it would be a ground!!!
:eek:

Thanks everyone for their help! Pretty strange but I'm hoping this is the issue. If not we'll find out Sunday when I have to load and unload the car all by my lonesome.

svxfiles
05-04-2005, 09:32 AM
That's a weird one.
It could not hurt to run an extra ground to the engine or factory header, in case something tweeks the clamp/strap under load.

SVXRide
05-04-2005, 12:39 PM
Ben,
If you've got the time, could you try alternate ground straps - as Tom suggests - and see if they work when the muffler strap is removed?
-Bill

benebob
05-04-2005, 01:34 PM
Yeah, we will be adding about 10 grounds although probably just another one in case the exhaust has clearance issues again until we move the battery to the trunk. :D

Motorsport-SVX
07-02-2006, 02:40 AM
I know this is an old thread, but Im getting the same thing.
So Im going to check my alterntor tomorrow
check fuel pressure
possibly replace the Fuel relay (its under the pass seat, right ?)
and check the ground strap, but Im probably going to
add some too.
The ground to the exhaust I take it went to the chassis somewhere ?
Ill probably just end up adding a few all around
motor to chassis, chassis to battery.
thanks for the tips
Dayle

Speedklix
07-02-2006, 10:54 PM
stockers should have one on the right tailpipe hanger.

Budfreak
07-02-2006, 10:59 PM
stockers should have one on the right tailpipe hanger.

Mines been broke since I got it. No probs to report from it though.

svxnavyvet
08-11-2018, 01:17 PM
This is why I like this forum over fee book. I just got a white svx had a spare engine in the trunk in the front was a japanese import motor had custom exhaust. and the back seat was missing but it was staked with parts. so removed rear engine cleaned out parts took out front seats and carpet cleaned carpet looks good in side now replaced right front with one I had same color looking better exempt for the hole in the hood and funky hood scoop. Ok now the guy said trans bad yet to see but also could not get it to keep running. I got it for 700. tried to start it it wood start and die read this post looked at the batt and head passed the factory batt cables and just had one to the starter and a ground to the stater bolt. so put the factory ground on and it not only starts but runs great exempt noisy injectors all 6 tap tap tap got some injector cleaner in now. so next is to put a seat back in and see what the trans does it also could have been funky with no grounds.
Thanks all this place is great info source.