Brighter Rear Signals

[justiceSVX]

I love cars with blinding rear turn signals. I'm guessing we use regular 32 candlepower 1156's for hte rear signals... would those 50 watt high output 1156s work? I know they create a lot more heat, but considering they're never on constantly or for long periods of time I'm thinkin' about it.

Anyone tried this?

[Chiketkd]

Originally posted by justiceSVX
I love cars with blinding rear turn signals. I'm guessing we use regular 32 candlepower 1156's for hte rear signals... would those 50 watt high output 1156s work? I know they create a lot more heat, but considering they're never on constantly or for long periods of time I'm thinkin' about it.

Anyone tried this?
Take a look at this thread:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22760

This *mod* of removing the diffusers from the rear tail lamps will make them appear much brighter.

-Chike

[justiceSVX]

Seen that, but I don't see how it'll get any brighter. A diffuser diffuses light, it doesn't make it dimmer.

So I'm guessing nobody has tried the 50 watt halogen 1156's?

Oh well, I guess I get to be the guinea pig. :)

[svxcess]

Another route to get much brighter tail lights is to use the "brite lite" bulbs from Ron Francis Wire-Works HERE (http://www.ronfrancis.com/products.asp?dept=94)

Click on the online catalog button and then search for "brite bulbs" in the sub-category.

The bulbs you want are the 1077. The candlepower for the brake/tail combination is 50/14 (compared to 32/3 for stock) Bulbs are $6.50 each and not available anywhere else. Use the 1077A (same candlepower as the rears) for your front turn signals and the 1015 bulb for your rear turn signals.

In real terms this means my tail lights are as bright as stock brake lights. When I apply my brakes you KNOW they are on!!!

Doug Mohr and I had a tail light face-off at the Lafayette 10th anniversary meet one night. Had our cars parked side-by-side for comparison. His LED setup was brighter and more intense and in a smaller area. Mine were brighter all across the entire lens area, not showing up as individual elements.

The LEDs are more red, like the third brake light, the brite-lites are more the red-orange you are used to seeing.

(The brite-lites were developed for the street rod industry. Cars from the 30's and 40's had very small tail lights and something was needed to give the stock tail lights more visability while keeping a stock appearance) I have quite a few spares of each in case of a burn out. I will never go back to other bulbs.

[justiceSVX]

My brake lights are fine. It's the rear turn signals I'd like to make brighter.

[odepaj]

what quantity of the 1077's would i need?

[nextse7en]

I can see the reflection of my turn signal lights on signs six blocks behind me - removing the diffuser is the way to go.

[Seraph]

Originally posted by nextse7en
I can see the reflection of my turn signal lights on signs six blocks behind me - removing the diffuser is the way to go.


You should see mine! :D :D :D

[svxcess]

Originally posted by odepaj
what quantity of the 1077's would i need?

4 1077 bulbs for the brake/tail lights
2 1015 bulbs for the rear turn signals
2 1077A (amber) for the front turn signals

Your brake lights or tail lights can never be too bright! In the northeast after a snowfall, we get a lot of salt residue that coats the rear lenses. Add a sunny day with the sun behind you and your brake lights almost disappear. Avoids a possible rear end collision.

[mohrds]

Originally posted by Seraph



You should see mine! :D :D :D

Mine Too!

[svxcess]

But yours cost a lot more than $24.00... and your turn signals are still stock.
The extra $12.00 gets you brighter turn signals as well (not halogen)

[THAWA]

You should not use overwattage bulbs, there are many reasons for this but the only one I can remember right now is the reflector type. Plastic reflectors and overwattage = no no.

If you want your tail lights to perform to their maximum you should upgrade your wiring, daniel stern did an explaination on this.

Also as I said in that thread, removing the "diffuser" which is actually part of the light optics, is the worst thing you can do to your lights. Any of them.

[justiceSVX]

Originally posted by THAWA
You should not use overwattage bulbs, there are many reasons for this but the only one I can remember right now is the reflector type. Plastic reflectors and overwattage = no no.


Would be true if it was a running light or something that could be on for long periods of time (brake lights, for example, can be on for prolonged periods if you hit a long redlight...), but turn signals are never on for prolonged periods.

I'm going to buy some, and no, it won't melt the reflector or anything.

[THAWA]

here are the reasons, it was writen for headlights but most of them still apply:
1) The headlamp reflector can handle high temperatures (this usually means it has to be made of metal).

2) The headlamp lens can handle high temperatures (this usually means it has to be made of glass).

3) The bulb socket can handle high temperatures (this usually means a quality aftermarket one intended for the purpose).

4) The wiring can handle high currents (this usually means you built an upgraded harness as discussed in this thread).

5) The beam pattern is designed to throw very little upward light, to prevent glare to oncoming traffic, and to provide low-glare seeing (this usually means an ECE lamp meant for the side of the road you drive on).

6) The bulb's base is designed to safely carry high current (this rules out a lot of bulbs, especially 9004 and 9007s; H4 bulbs however have nice large terminals and metal/thermoplastic bases).

7) The bulb is well-made with attention paid to all specifications (the best way to ensure this is to buy from a reputable manufacturer, and avoid stuff made cheaply in Eastern Asia).

8) The lamp is aimed correctly and with care.

[svxcess]

Originally posted by THAWA
You should not use overwattage bulbs, there are many reasons for this but the only one I can remember right now is the reflector type. Plastic reflectors and overwattage = no no.

I have been using the brite-lite bulbs for five years now (in both my pearlie and now my 96) I have never had an issue with overheating or any other problems. They are prone to failure a little more than the stock bulbs, but I feel that the increased illumination is well worth it. Using a bit of dielectric grease in wach socket helps preserve the bulbs tremendously.

I have only burnt out 3 tail/brake bulbs in 3 years, because of a lot of driving with my lights on. I have never burnt out either a front or rear turn signal (I have no parking lights; only flashing turn signals as UK-spec)

[THAWA]

But does it all the other requirements. If it doesn't (which it doesn't) it shouldn't be used.

[svxcess]

Originally posted by THAWA
But does it all the other requirements. If it doesn't (which it doesn't) it shouldn't be used.
:confused: :confused:

The lights come on and go off as expected
They are brighter and more visible (hence safer) than stock
They do not overload the wiring system
They do not melt or distort the reflectors or the lenses

In other words they perform their function exactly as they were designed to do without any drawbacks. Exactly what requirements doesn't it meet?

As for the front assemblies, I have them wired to UK-spec and have not encountered any legal problems in almost 5 years. I do not have the parking lights connected. I run with headlights only and the only time you see amber lights is when the turn signals are flashing. This is the way it is in the UK and it seems safer to me (When signaling a turn, BRIGHT-off-BRIGHT-off gets more attention than BRIGHT-dim-BRIGHT-dim). They mimic how our rear turn sigmals operate.

[justiceSVX]

Originally posted by THAWA
here are the reasons, it was writen for headlights but most of them still apply:


Wow. You'r pretty paranoid. Perhaps you should never start your car since 75% of engine wear occurs at start up. You should invest in one of those pre-oilers. Also, never floor it. Ever. That decreases engine life.

[THAWA]

First of all I'm not paranoid. Secondly the stock wiring is barely enough for the stock bulbs. Finally, your turn signal setup is safer svxcess, but it's not legal in the US.

I think I see that the people here obviously don't care about lighting. Oh well, I'm done trying to help :D.