Upgraded brakes

[deruvian]

Hey all,
I am in the market for new brakes (as in, 100% sure I am buying some soon - it's not really an option, eh?). I want to get new slotted or slotted/dimpled front rotors, since the current set is the one that came with the car upon purchase. I also want to get front and rear pads that are a little more quality than the typical cheap-o Napa or Autozone set. I was thinking something semi-metallic, as they tend to perform best when warmed-up, but aren't total poop when cool.

Does anyone know of any tried and true brands that they want to suggest?

Oh ya, and Dayle, before you go suggesting your big brake kit - I'm not looking to spend boat loads of money. I'm trying to keep this around/below $300 (I'm doing all the labor).

So, new front rotors, and new front and rear pads... Any help?

Thanks.

[TomsSVX]

It is about time I introduced you to my good friend EBay, be wary though, could get crap rotors if you buy the cheap one. You can also find the AXXIS pads that I use on both of my SVXi, they are excellent in performance and not too shabby on wear. You can pick a set of front rotors and pads for under $300. Good luck.

Tom

[SVXer95]

I recommend Akebono ProACT ceramic pads. I have had the best luck with these. Low dusting, NO fade, great performance!

You can buy them through tirerack.

[Tim]

How do they compare to the EBC green stuff? I'm in the market for pads soon.

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by TE1221
How do they compare to the EBC green stuff? I'm in the market for pads soon. Never had the GreenStuff. Do a search, there have been a couple of different reviews on these. I really love them. No fade whatsoever.

I had to get cheap autozone pads because I needed them fast. They were ceramic, so I thought they might be good like the Akebono. WRONG. Akebonos are awesome. Many OE's use them including Subaru on some models. Quiet, virtually dust free, and great performance.

[SVXer95]

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?autoMake=Subaru&autoModel=SVX&autoYear=1995&autoModClar=&make=Akebono&model=ProACT+Ceramic+Pads

Also thought I would mention....these lasted a very long time for me. Even when I swapped them after 30k miles, they still had about half life left. The only reason I changed them was due to a frozen caliper.

[gsodonis]

I highly recommend the Akebono ACT Pro Ceramics as well. Three of my last four vehicles had them (it would have been 4 for 4 had they made them for my 78 Jeep CJ7, which at the time they didn't)and they are quiet, low dusting with much better stopping power. Akebono is the company that makes pads for Honda among other OEM's and this is their premium pad.

[RojoRocket]

I'm surprised nobody has suggested a set of stainless lines!?? I was flat amazed at the difference in feel on my Legacy, less so, but still firmer on the SVX. Purchased from Dayle at Motorsport.

Glenn

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by RojoRocket
I'm surprised nobody has suggested a set of stainless lines!?? I was flat amazed at the difference in feel on my Legacy, less so, but still firmer on the SVX. Purchased from Dayle at Motorsport.

Glenn
I have thought about doing stainless lines....

A full system bleed and fill with synthetic made my brakes incredibly firm. I don't personally see the need for stainless lines now. Although, this would be a great upgrade.

[RojoRocket]

I don't personally see the need for stainless lines now.
Colin,
Maybe not, but if the original rubber lines are still on the car, and depending on the harshness of the weather in your area it might not be a bad time to consider them. Just my $.02, but after seeing what kind of shape the originals were in, and having dealt with leaking lines at very "inopportune" times on three 10-12 yr old 'tegs in the house over the last 3 years, some kind of replacement might be in order. :)

Glenn

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by RojoRocket

Colin,
Maybe not, but if the original rubber lines are still on the car, and depending on the harshness of the weather in your area it might not be a bad time to consider them. Just my $.02, but after seeing what kind of shape the originals were in, and having dealt with leaking lines at very "inopportune" times on three 10-12 yr old 'tegs in the house over the last 3 years, some kind of replacement might be in order. :)

Glenn

I completely agree with you. I was jsut stating that, with the current feel of my personal pedal, I don't need them. I think it is a great mod and if I need to replace brake lines it will be with stainless.

I have been thinking about making my own lines though. Should be cheaper than the Goodridge ones....

[wawazat??]

Originally posted by SVXer95
I have been thinking about making my own lines though. Should be cheaper than the Goodridge ones....

By a TON Collin.

Todd

[Gt-Four195]

Get slotted rotors, dimples and drilling make them more likely to crack, dimples not as much, but they're only for looks and serve no purpose except taking mass away from the rotors, which make them less effective.

EBC are great pads, I also recommend Porterfields if there is an SVX application.

[Motorsport-SVX]

I have the lines on special too !! $95 set...
for pads, I like Raybestos Ceramics myself too

[drivemusicnow]

collin.. he meant cheaper by a lot...

My dad has the EBC greenstuffs on his rex and loves them. i really like the pedal feel too, however i would REALLY suggest not getting cheapo pads. my axxis MMs died because of a frozen caliper, didn't have the money or time to get anything other than the napa special... and MAN do they SUCK...

i have the ss brakelines on the front, and with these pads the pedal feel is horrible.

which means... Collin, you're helping me replace the fronts with the akebonos (probably) sometime this term... and should probably put the rear stainless steel lines on too. :p :p :p

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow
collin.. he meant cheaper by a lot...

My dad has the EBC greenstuffs on his rex and loves them. i really like the pedal feel too, however i would REALLY suggest not getting cheapo pads. my axxis MMs died because of a frozen caliper, didn't have the money or time to get anything other than the napa special... and MAN do they SUCK...

i have the ss brakelines on the front, and with these pads the pedal feel is horrible.

which means... Collin, you're helping me replace the fronts with the akebonos (probably) sometime this term... and should probably put the rear stainless steel lines on too. :p :p :p
Wow...I'm dumb. I thought it said *buy* not by....

I'll be happy to give you a hand. Just as long as it isn't snowing;). I once had to change my brakes in a parking lot in the snow, not fun at all.

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by wawazat??


By a TON Collin.

Todd
Todd, have you made your own?

[SVX10]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow


which means... Collin, you're helping me replace the fronts with the akebonos (probably) sometime this term... and should probably put the rear stainless steel lines on too. :p :p :p

I'm gonna miss out on all the Flint town SVX fun :( Maybe i can participate over the phone??? ;)

[SVXRide]

I'd be very careful about making your own SS brakelines. Given the pressure they run at, the specialized ends that they require, and the special crimping/swaging tool you need to put the ends on correctly, I'm not so sure you'd really save any $ doing them yourself (unless, of course, you already had the right tools...).
-Bill

[SVXer95]

Video Conference!

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by SVXRide
I'd be very careful about making your own SS brakelines. Given the pressure they run at, the specialized ends that they require, and the special crimping/swaging tool you need to put the ends on correctly, I'm not so sure you'd really save any $ doing them yourself (unless, of course, you already had the right tools...).
-Bill
Just a thought really. Haven't researched it much, but doesn't seem like it would be too bad. Welded high pressure couplings can be had at very low prices from McMaster-Carr.

[wawazat??]

What happened to your post about units???:confused: :p :D

A local industrial hose making shop here in the Detroit area carries the entire Aeroquip, Earl's and Russell's product lines and can make custom brake line in the PTFE (Teflon) lined braided stainless steel VERY in-expensively. They have the tools and the experience to make these things correctly, but they need a sample hose for the correct lingths and fitting types. Godd thing I've got a parts car, eh?

In deference to Dayle's quoted price, I won't post it. Sorry, but I'm also not interested in running around and having hoses made for people.

Todd

[SVX10]

Message deleted to make Mat look like less of an idiot

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by SVX10
Ever been in a truck with big ol' tires? When your rear bearings are shot, you'll get similar noise from the rear of your vehicle. Should get louder as speed increases, and it should get louder if you fold down the rear seat. It's easy to identify because you'll hear it faintly at first, and as you keep driving for a few weeks/months (depending upon how much you drive), it will get progressivly louder.
Not awake yet Mat?

I think you wanted another thread.;)

[SVXRide]

Originally posted by wawazat??
What happened to your post about units???:confused: :p :D

A local industrial hose making shop here in the Detroit area carries the entire Aeroquip, Earl's and Russell's product lines and can make custom brake line in the PTFE (Teflon) lined braided stainless steel VERY in-expensively. They have the tools and the experience to make these things correctly, but they need a sample hose for the correct lingths and fitting types. Godd thing I've got a parts car, eh?

In deference to Dayle's quoted price, I won't post it. Sorry, but I'm also not interested in running around and having hoses made for people.

Todd

Collin,
What Todd has stated above is exactly what I was talking about -- you can make the lines, as long as you've got the right equipment. You definitely don't want a fitting popping off on you coming down a steep hill:eek:
-Bill
p.s. Todd - "not interested"?? I figured this would be a nice addition to your product line:D

[SVX10]

What the??? I have NO idea how that got into this thread. hahahaha. I wrote that at like 10:00 last night...I was finally waking up from a slow day at work ;-) Time to go hunt down the correct thread and share my wisdom there. As for the steel lines...contrary to popular opinion, they don't sound like a truck with big tires :D :p

[deruvian]

Thanks all.

Alright, so it appears as though part one has been concluded. Akebono pads get a pretty high rating by everyone here (and on other sites as well). Here's the info that I've collected:

- Akebono ceramic pads for the front and rear. ~ $130, f & r
- Valvoline synthetic brake fluid. ~ $10, 34 oz.
- Drilled rotors are bad for both rotor and pad longevity, so slotted is preferable.

So, can anyone offer any advice on the slotted rotors? I'd like to stay away from the "get whatever is cheapest on eBay" thing, because I have no idea what brand rotor I will actually be getting. A lot of auctions do not specify, and I'd like to know what brand is going to be stopping my car. I dunno, IMO, stopping just seems important, eh?

[deruvian]

Almost forgot... Two more questions.

1) Is 34 oz. of the Valvoline synthetic going to be enough to flush the system?
2) On tirerack.com, it lists the Akebono pads with a per axle price... I'm assuming that this means four pads for the entire front system, and four pads for the rear. Is this correct? i.e. I would need to buy one per-axle set for the front, and another for the rear.

[drivemusicnow]

1) not so sure, however 34oz seems like a helluvalot of brakefluid.. so i'm gonna GUESS yes
2) yes, by axle means you buy the front axle, adn the rear axle and you're set.

for the slotted rotors, most of the ones on ebay are going to actually come from the same place, however look for whatever ones say specifically "bradi" blanks... this is the one company that i believe actually manufactures them for our cars. then other companies distribute and drill and slot.... etc... if i were in your situation, i'd just go with blanks. the value behind slotted is only found when doing exccessive braking such as on a track. i think you'd actually stop faster from 80-0 on a blank disc over a slotted one. (more frictional area... i guess it'd be a toss up..)

[TomsSVX]

slotted rotors can make all the difference. Although it take away from friction surface, it allows the pads to get more bite. It also makes the rotors much warmer hence they are more prone to warping. The drilled and slotted will be fine as long as you are not running from 120-40mph speeds consecutively. I have done quite a few high speed drops with my drilled and slotted (not Bradi) in my fwd w/ AXXIS pads and i tell you what it is amazing. The drills allow for more ventilation allowing them to stay cooler than just slotted. I am not telling anyoen to do anything but I prefer the drilled and slotted w/ axxis metal masters. Good luck choosing.

[drivemusicnow]

Here is my point.. You prefer drilled and slotted with axxis mm's over WHAT???
not saying you haven't, but to make a fair comparison, have you ever used the same pads on solid rotors??

First, why people generally are agaisnt drilled rotors: The drilling process usually compromises the integrity of the rotor. With a piece of metal that goes through a decent heat range, this = cracking. (sometimes they're really small cracks.. but still there) crossdrilling removes MORE braking surface than slotting does in most cases. doing both is even worse!
brake rotors are designed to convert kinetic energy into heat energy. when taking away materials, you're lessoning the rotors ability to do this. plus... find me a racing team that still uses cross drilled rotors.

slots are not meant to increase friction, they are mainly there for 1 reason. to remove gasses from in between the pad and rotor surface (the only reason drilling is done too). PERIOD. they don't do anything for heat (actually lesson the discs abbility to absorb heat) they really don't add any friction (very very very minimal)


read here for more info http://www.gti-vr6.net/library/wheels_tires_brakes/drilled_vs_slotted_rotors.html

sooo best depends on what kind of use they are for. and if you're not going to be hard on them... Blanks stick out as by far the best choice to me.

[SVX10]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow
slots are not meant to increase friction, they are mainly there for 1 reason. to remove gasses from in between the pad and rotor surface (the only reason drilling is done too). PERIOD. they don't do anything for heat (actually lesson the discs abbility to absorb heat) they really don't add any friction (very very very minimal)



Actually, slots do more than evacuate gasses...that's probably 2nd on the list of what slots do. Slots shave the pads so that you are constantly getting a fresh pad surface in contact with the rotor. Think about heat distribution on the pad...it's gonna be greates at the surface. Granted, the front pads only take about 5% of the total heat, but shaving off that top layer shaves off the hottest layer.

Edit: Also, almost more important than shaving off the hottest layer, since the actual thickness is minimal, the slots keep that flat pad surface for a more even force distribution over the pad (the force distribution will never be exacly equal because the force is applied over the piston area only, not the entire back of the pad) This helps to avoid concentrated areas of higher heat. If I'm not mistaken, it's these areas that cause accumulation of pad deposits and the associated "warped" feel.

I will agree with you that a blank is probably best in a street use situation. With that said, I'm planning to buy slotted rotors soon :) I'd just feel dumb saying I intentionally bought blank rotors...all the people that I'm trying to impress with my car mods would just think that's stupid! ;) :p Plus my wheels have those humongous openings, so the slots will look good. hehehe.

[wawazat??]

Something else to keep in mind is the noise these generate. It may not be important to everyone, but both drilled and slotted rotors make more noise when stopping than plain smooth faced rotors.

Todd

[SVXer95]

1) If 34 oz is the big bottle, about a hand and a half high, yes, you should be fine. Just make sure to keep switching wheels and following the proper pattern. iirc it is RF, LR, LF, RR.

2) IMO, you probably aren't going to be able to tell the performance difference from blanks. BUT, it is there, and if you want to know you have it, go with BRADI (brembo) blanks and slots.

3) Todd is right, slotted rotors make a bit of a faint clicking noise. Hard to notice unless the windows are down, but it is there.

[SVXer95]

BLEEDING PROCEDURES
Ensure joints and connections of brake system do not leak.
Bleed air from brake system in sequence. See
BRAKELINE BLEEDING SEQUENCE table. Time interval between release and
depression of brake pedal during bleeding should be 3-4 seconds. Open
brake cylinder bleeder screw for 1-2 seconds on every pressure stroke.
BRAKELINE BLEEDING SEQUENCE TABLE





























































Application Sequence
SVX ....................... (1) HP, (1) HS, RF, LR, LF, RR
(1) - HP (hydraulic unit primary bleeder between LF and RR);
HS (hydraulic unit secondary bleeder between RF
and LR). See ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM article.




Above is taken from Mitchell On Demand. I didn't bleed the abs system, just the wheels. Flush until fluid is completely clear.

[NiftySVX]

Dot 5 (purple) brake fluid is not reccomended for use with ABS because it airates very easily. As long as you keep the fluid clean, dot 3 or 4 is just as good unless you are autocrossing or something. Be careful to those with ABS, but te LE doesn't have it so knock yourself out.

[NiftySVX]

I would anticipate that an abs system with dot 5 fluid would cause an accident. If ABS were to activate, I believe it would airate the fluid so quickly that the pedal would go to the floor and the brakes would not work/work very little.

I don't want to see anyone crash their SVX!

[TomsSVX]

thank you for the info on drilled and slotted rotors. Thats some stuff I did not know. Anyways I am going to stick with my rotors. I am not racing ecxept occasionally:D and i am not auto crossing unless i find a windy... track;) . My brakes performed almost twice as well after I installed the drilled and slotted rotors on both cars and my 94 L does not have ABS I have judgment from both angles. Regaurdless of all the technical data, My brakes perform better than my blanks ever did. Thats just my opinion though.

Tom

[deruvian]

Thanks for all the rotor info. Most of it I knew, but there were a few new tidbits in there.

I'm still going to go with slotted rotors over blanks. I am pretty rough on braking anyway, but with the steep hills here in the Capitol Hill district of Seattle, WA... the roughness gets even worse. I've only been here for about 5 months, and had the brake fluid changed only a couple months prior to that. When I moved here, the fluid was still a nice tan color. It is now a dark, dark brown. Ewww. :mad:

I also plan on getting into some good ol' track fun within the next 6 - 9 months.

So, now that the slotted rotors are the definite decision, where should I get them?!

[deruvian]

By the way, I do not have ABS (hate it anyway), so using DOT 5 will not be a problem... Going to use Valvoline synthetic anyway.

[Beav]

You'll like the slotted rotors when it is raining, they allow the water (and steam) an escape route and you'll notice a better brake feel. They do tend to make a little noise/feel, but it gets better over time.

[Myetball]

The problem with DOT 5 was that is was a silicone based product. I'm pretty sure silicone based DOT 5 would be hard to find, only the military still uses it. The new standard is DOT 5.1. The following is taken from the Synlube website: http://www.synlube.com/

DOT 5.1 -- Non-Silicone Synthetic Brake Fluid

LONG LIFE 100% synthetic fluid for hydraulically actuated-brake and clutch systems. (Based on Polyglycol chemistry).

DOT 5.1 NON-SILICONE BASE suitable for up-grade from DOT 3 or DOT 4.

Fluidity specially designed for anti-locking brake systems (ABS).

Fully compatible and miscible with Conventional Brake Fluids.

This version is crystal clear and has extra solvency which has the ability to clean and put into suspension gum and sludge deposits formed by conventional brake fluids.

No special procedures are required when bleeding and replacing conventional system fluids with SynLube™ Stop-4-Life™ Brake Fluids.

Typical service life 60 months for DOT 5.1 Standard Formula

DOT 5.1 -- Long-Life Non-Silicone Synthetic

EXTRA LONG LIFE 100% synthetic fluid for hydraulically actuated-brake and clutch systems. (Based on Polyglycol chemistry).

DOT 5.1 NON-SILICONE BASE suitable for up-grade from DOT 3 or DOT 4.

Fluidity specially designed for anti-locking brake systems (ABS).

Fully compatible and miscible with Conventional Brake Fluids.

This version has extra anti corrosion additives that protect ferrous, white and yellow metal brake system components.

This fluid is clear and golden yellow in color.

No special procedures are required when bleeding and replacing conventional system fluids with SynLube™ Stop-4-Life™ Brake Fluids.

Typical service life up to 10 years for DOT 5.1 Extra Long Life Formula

[justiceSVX]

Overkill. Just use this:

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=51

[deruvian]

Well, I just ordered the Akebono ProACT pads from tirerack.com. $137 total, including shipping... Not bad, and it leaves a fair amount of space for some rotors. $163 of the budget is left!

Actually, it's not really a budget - $300 is just a preference. lol.

Tomorrow or Tuesday I will be purchasing the Valvoline SynPower brake fluid, and a set of jack stands with a floor jack (I lost mine when I moved out of my parents house, as they were my Dad's anyway).

Speaking of which, anyone have any recommendations on a floor jack w/ a pair of stands? Perhaps I'll start another thread...

[drivemusicnow]

theres two thoughts that go through my head when i'm buying jackstands and jacks...
1) a jackstand.. is a jackstand.. is a jackstand

2) I'm going to be lying under a 3800 lbs car while these peices of metal hold it up.

good luck with your decision;)

floor jacks don't have to be so expensive.. i'd suggest a 30-50 dollar one... as long as you NEVER are underneath a car with it only supported by a jack, you'll be fine.

[THAWA]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow
2) I'm going to be lying under a 3800 lbs car while these peices of metal hold it up.

no worse than air and rubber holding the car up :)

[deruvian]

I just bought the Valvoline SynPower brake fluid, along with some brake cleaner, non-squeak stuff, and a caliper spreader. About $22 total (I bought some other stuff, too, so I'm guesstimating). I've currently spent about $155 total, so I'll just barely break the $300 mark. Sweet!

I also picked up the 2.25 ton Craftsman floor jack and jack stands that I ordered, and they appear to be of nice quality... I'm glad that I can finally work on my car again!

[deruvian]

Earlier today I ordered a set of slotted rotors, for the front, from Dayle at Motorsport Warehouse. The price was $150 + $17 shipping.

Akebono ProACT pads for the front and rear, from tirerack.com (arrived) - $137 shipped.
Valvoline SynPower fluid, brake cleaner, anti-squeak, and a caliper spreader, from Shuck's - about $22.
Slotted rotors for the front, from Motorsport Warehouse (on the way) - $167 shipped.

$326 in total... Not too shabby for a new set of quality brakes. Add in a somewhat leisurely 2 hours of labor, and I'm set to go! I'll be sure to let everyone know how the install goes, and what the new stopping abilities are in comparison to the stock setup.

Here's hoping that my calipers are in good shape! *Knock on wood* :D

[SVXer95]

The beauty of the ProACT pads is that you don't have to break them in either!

You are going to love your new brakes.

[drivemusicnow]

hmm i didn't know that..


i do know however that the crappy generic pads on my car REALLLLLYYYYYY suck. to the point where i'm about to change them no matter how much life they have left.

[justiceSVX]

Originally posted by SVXer95
The beauty of the ProACT pads is that you don't have to break them in either!


Says who?! Brakes pads need a thin layer of pad material on the rotor in order to work properly. This is done by 'bedding' a pad, or getting it hot enough to reach it's operating temperature. I've never heard of pads taht don't require this.... have any more info?

[Myetball]

From one of Akebono's advertisements.

Akebono’s advanced ProACT™ Ceramic Disc Pads, original equipment on many of North America’s most popular cars, light trucks and sport utility vehicles, are ideal OEM replacement components and the perfect performance option for drivers looking to upgrade from conventional pads.

Akebono Ceramic Technology (ACT) helps to reduce the brake noise (squealing and grinding), vibration and harshness (NVH) problems associated with some aftermarket brake products. Ceramic technology also produces ultra-low dusting for cleaner wheels and tires and fosters minimal wear on the brake rotor.

Other advantages of ProACT ceramic brake pads include:

* Unrivaled “initial effectiveness” with no required break-in period
* Ultra-quiet, positive and smooth braking performance
* High resistance to fade with fast recovery
* More consistent pedal feel for driver confidence

NVH control is further optimized by the fact that ProACT™ Ceramic Disc Pads are designed for specific models, as well as powder-coat finished and harmonically damped. All Akebono ceramic disc pad formulations are also asbestos-free.

[justiceSVX]

I don't really believe that. If you ahve those pads, get on the brakes a few times and check out your rotors. If it's JUST steel, then that is indeed freakin' weird. I'm guessing you'll see the rotors covered with a tiny layer of pad material though.

[Merz]

What do you guys think about buying cheap rotors on ebay? My fronts are warped badly. I dont have a lot of money to spend, but i dont want to buy something i will regret.

these are only $75, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7944340173&category=33564

$100 for these, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7944214340&category=33564

$129,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7944669201&category=33564

What do you guys think? are any of these worth buying? Any other suggestions?

Thanks!:)

-Evan

[deruvian]

Originally posted by evanmerz
What do you guys think about buying cheap rotors on ebay? My fronts are warped badly. I dont have a lot of money to spend, but i dont want to buy something i will regret.

these are only $75, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7944340173&category=33564

$100 for these, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7944214340&category=33564

$129,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7944669201&category=33564

What do you guys think? are any of these worth buying? Any other suggestions?

Thanks!:)

-Evan

Race Concepts seems to be recommended fairly often on this site. I would purchase their rotors, but ask for a set of slotted-only. The ill effects of cross-drilling have been discussed many times, so do a search to find out why you should avoid them... Unless you enjoy potentially harming yourself, your car, and your wallet.

[Motorsport-SVX]

Ive had cross drilled on all my cars for over 2 yrs with no
issues at all. Either way, drilled or slotted we have some
pretty good things on special too right now.
www.planetsvx.com

[justiceSVX]

raceconcepts are pretty good. Don't really worry about the dimple drilling.. they don't drill all the way through, so it isn't much of an issue. If you can, get slotted only, but if not... good enough.

[Merz]

thanks guys, I decided to go with the raceconcepts slotted only. I emailed him last night and am waiting for a reply. I cant wait to get them. I'm tired of my car shaking when i hit the brakes. :mad:

-Evan

[drivemusicnow]

race conceptz isn't the same company as it was before... run by some not so good people anymore. I'd suggest doing a search with i BELIEVE porter...

I'd go with just bradi's off of ebay... they'd work just the same, and if you talk to the seller you can get whatever you want done to them.

[Rotorflyr]

Your right Drive, race concepts isn't owned by the same person but people have ordered them since and I haven't read any negitive comments on the quality of the product, so what makes you say the company is run by some not so good people?

[Merz]

Race concepts uses bradi rotors, and they are $100 +$16 shipping. The other bradi rotors on ebay are $129 + $24 shipping. so i would save $37 with raceconcepts. Also, raceconcepts still has very good feedback on ebay, although alot of it may have been obtained by the previous owners.

-Evan

[drivemusicnow]

Originally posted by Rotorflyr
Your right Drive, race concepts isn't owned by the same person but people have ordered them since and I haven't read any negitive comments on the quality of the product, so what makes you say the company is run by some not so good people?



well i take that back.. Porter had a very bad experience when the company was just changing hands. However, as this thread indicates
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=225284#post225284
Ben seems to have been able to do pretty well with SVX owners since then... Here is Porter's side to the story:
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18724&highlight=raceconcepts

[deruvian]

Well, I finally got back from my vacation to my parents' in California, and managed to get everything installed! The installation went pretty well, sans the two bolts on the caliper frames in front...

They were baked into their threads so well that a hammer-to-the-breaker-bar action wouldn't even loosen them. On the passenger side, I had to use the floor jack to apply the appropriate leverage to the breaker bar to loosen the bolts. On the driver side, this wouldn't work, of course (right-tighty, lefty-loosy!) So, I had to use the breaker bar and the bar for the floor jack, and use a little downward transverse leverage via the frame... Anyway, it sucked, but it had to be done to get the old rotors off and the new ones on.

I've got (once again): Akebono ProACT pads in the front and the rear, zinc-coated slotted front rotors from Dayle (they're Bradi, I believe), and Valvoline SynPower brake fluid.

After the install, the brake pedal went straight to floor a few times, until adequate pressure built up. Then they got incredibly firm! I took it for a spin around the neighborhood, and noticed a definite howling from the slotted rotors upon braking. The first few times that I came to a complete stop, I also noticed a very loud grinding noise from the front brakes that also made the car shake a little. :( :mad: I continued driving, cautiously, and both the grinding and howling went away.

There is no audible howling from the brakes anymore, they're incredibly firm, and I definitely feel more confident stopping. There's still a little bit of a grinding noise when coming to a total stop and then allowing the car to roll forward a few inches, but I've heard this before, and also heard it go away before. So, no worries.

I just wish that I could have fixed my cigarette lighter first, so that I could GTech my 60-0 braking distance/G's before and after the install. However, I figured that the ability to stop at all was more important than a functional cigarette lighter. ;)

Thanks for all the help guys.

[Motorsport-SVX]

Originally posted by deruvian
Well, I finally got back from my vacation to my parents' in California, and managed to get everything installed! The installation went pretty well, sans the two bolts on the caliper frames in front...

They were baked into their threads so well that a hammer-to-the-breaker-bar action wouldn't even loosen them. On the passenger side, I had to use the floor jack to apply the appropriate leverage to the breaker bar to loosen the bolts. On the driver side, this wouldn't work, of course (right-tighty, lefty-loosy!) So, I had to use the breaker bar and the bar for the floor jack, and use a little downward transverse leverage via the frame... Anyway, it sucked, but it had to be done to get the old rotors off and the new ones on.

I've got (once again): Akebono ProACT pads in the front and the rear, zinc-coated slotted front rotors from Dayle (they're Bradi, I believe), and Valvoline SynPower brake fluid.

After the install, the brake pedal went straight to floor a few times, until adequate pressure built up. Then they got incredibly firm! I took it for a spin around the neighborhood, and noticed a definite howling from the slotted rotors upon braking. The first few times that I came to a complete stop, I also noticed a very loud grinding noise from the front brakes that also made the car shake a little. :( :mad: I continued driving, cautiously, and both the grinding and howling went away.

There is no audible howling from the brakes anymore, they're incredibly firm, and I definitely feel more confident stopping. There's still a little bit of a grinding noise when coming to a total stop and then allowing the car to roll forward a few inches, but I've heard this before, and also heard it go away before. So, no worries.

I just wish that I could have fixed my cigarette lighter first, so that I could GTech my 60-0 braking distance/G's before and after the install. However, I figured that the ability to stop at all was more important than a functional cigarette lighter. ;)

Thanks for all the help guys.

those noises are normal with new pads and the zinc plating
on the rotors. Break in your new pads like suggested in the
instructions and be easy on them for the 1st hundred miles
or so if possible. ....enjoy