transmission shifting

[rabbitman]

I recently noticed that my svx started shifting more abruptly than usual, I also have
the power light blink 16 times, every time I start the car. A mechanic friend said that
you can count the blinks to get the fault code. does anyone know what a falt of 16
would mean.

Thanks,

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by rabbitman
I recently noticed that my svx started shifting more abruptly than usual, I also have
the power light blink 16 times, every time I start the car. A mechanic friend said that
you can count the blinks to get the fault code. does anyone know what a falt of 16
would mean.

Thanks,

Rabbitman. Sounds like duty solenoid A is going out, or, the resistor behind the battery has either died or come unplugged.

The 16 blinks just means that there is a code being stored. You'll have to run the self diagnosis to actually see what that code us.

The "Power" light indicates transmission codes. The following self diagnosis will show any fault codes for the transmission.


To perform the self diag test for EXISTING problems
1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
4) Turn ignition switch OFF.
5) Move selector lever to D and turn manual switch ON.
6) Turn ignition switch ON.
7) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch OFF.
8) Move selector level to "2" and turn manual switch ON.
9) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch OFF.
10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.

To perform the self diag test for PREVIOUS problems
1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
4) Turn ignition switch OFF.
5) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch ON.
6) Turn ignition switch ON.
7) Move selector lever to "2" and turn manual switch OFF.
8) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch ON.
9) Move selector lever to "D" and trun manual switch OFF.
10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.

Trouble codes:
11 Duty solenoid A
12 Duty solenoid B
13 Shift solenoid 3
14 Shift solenoid 2
15 Shift solenoid 1
21 ATF temp sensor
22 Atmospheric sensor
23 Engine revolution signal
24 Duty solenoid C
25 Engine torque control signal
31 Throttle sensor
32 Vehicle speed sensor 1
33 Vehicle speed sensor 2


----------------------
Long ones are counted as 10 and shot ones are counted as 1s
hope that helps.

[cocacola08]

Well randy how about this then..


Accell. from a stop.

1. seems like normal accell, then at about 3000rpm, tach shoots up about 1500rmp like i was pushing in the clutch on a manual trans.

2. rpms go back down and continue to rise as normal, then shift to 2nd.


problem seems to get smaller as temperature goes up.

cold start=really bad.

[cocacola08]

may this should be in chris's shop

[rabbitman]

Aredubjay, thanks for the advise, I'll try to follow the instructions to get the code. I don't
think that I can put the car into drive while the ignition is turned off, as described in the
instructions...


Thanks,...

[Aredubjay]

Kev,
You're describing the symptoms my tranny was suffering when diagnosed as a TPS problem. However, eddycat warned me that it is a sign that the high clutch is on its way out. The problem WAS solved with a new TPS, but, since the tranny guys said that they'd burnt up the high clutch "diagnosing" the problem, the jury is still out as to whether they had rebuilt the tranny properly.

As you've probably read, I've begun to experience the same problem again, but only under load (usually a TPS problem) and only after the car warms up. My guess is that they simply rebuilt the high clutch the same as they did originally (which may have been insufficient) and it's going out again. But, needless to say, over the holidays, I don't want to let my car languish at their shop for 24 days or so, like it did the last time, while they "diagnose" the problem. So, I'm not trying to beat any cars when pulling out from stop signs -- if I pull out "gently," the tranny shifts smoothly with no slipping. It's only when I punch it (i.e. pulling out from stop sign with a car bearing down on me) that the "slippage" occurs.

Originally posted by cocacola08
Well randy how about this then..


Accell. from a stop.

1. seems like normal accell, then at about 3000rpm, tach shoots up about 1500rmp like i was pushing in the clutch on a manual trans.

2. rpms go back down and continue to rise as normal, then shift to 2nd.


problem seems to get smaller as temperature goes up.

cold start=really bad.

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by rabbitman
Aredubjay, thanks for the advise, I'll try to follow the instructions to get the code. I don't
think that I can put the car into drive while the ignition is turned off, as described in the
instructions...


Thanks,...

Rabbit, what year is your car? If it's a '92 or 93, you can release the shifter by pushing the shift lock button, just above the shifter. If it's a later model, remove the plug above the shifter and use a screwdriver or even your key to press the button and release the shift lock.

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by cocacola08
may this should be in chris's shop

Good point. I'll move it.

[rabbitman]

Aredubjay, my car is a 94'...I'll try the sequence when I get home from work...


Thanks,

[rabbitman]

Aredubjay, I did the diagnostic check and got a code of 11...could you tell me
where it is located on the car and what is involved in replacing it.

Thanks,

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by rabbitman
Aredubjay, I did the diagnostic check and got a code of 11...could you tell me
where it is located on the car and what is involved in replacing it.

Thanks,

I've got good news and bad news . . .

Bad news first:

Duty solenoid A is located within the valve body of the transmission and, will probably be pretty pricey to replace.


Good news:
It could possibly just be a faulty resistor, which is located behind the battery on the wall of the fender. If you do a search on "resistor" you'll find several posts, but, you need to look for the one that describes the fact that the resistor from a (I think) Legacy will replace the stock resistor, then, get one from a wrecking yard. Of course, it may simply be corroded, try unplugging it, squirting a little WD 40 into the plug, then plug it in and unplug it a couple of times to clean the contacts. Then, unplug your battery overnight to clear the codes and see if the warning comes back.


Chris, Beav, does this make sense??

[rabbitman]

Aredubjay, thanks...I'll first try your suggestion and clean the plug on that resistor and
see what happens...I hope that's the problem...it would make it easy.


Thanks,

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by rabbitman
Aredubjay, I did the diagnostic check and got a code of 11...could you tell me
where it is located on the car and what is involved in replacing it.

Thanks,

Just in case you don't know what it looks like, or where to find it.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/1149.jpg

Good luck.

[Beav]

I've got a diagnostic tree for that code, if you're handy with a VOM and don't mind crawling under the dash and under the car. Chris would be the guy to ask if there's a known pattern failure for that code. Let me know if you need the page (and your e-mail addy so I can send it to you)

Beav

[rabbitman]

Aredubjay, I cleaned the plug and sprayed it with wd40...but it still shifts the same...I guess
that the problem is probably the solenoid in the trans? I didn't have the time to disconnect
the battery to clear the codes but I'm sure that they will just reappear... What is the VOM
that Beav is talking about in the last thread...Beav?, what other sequence is there...


Thanks,

[LarryIII]

A VOM is a Volt-Ohm meter.

Larry III

[cocacola08]

Originally posted by Aredubjay
Kev,
You're describing the symptoms my tranny was suffering when diagnosed as a TPS problem. However, eddycat warned me that it is a sign that the high clutch is on its way out. The problem WAS solved with a new TPS, but, since the tranny guys said that they'd burnt up the high clutch "diagnosing" the problem, the jury is still out as to whether they had rebuilt the tranny properly.


I figured it was similar to your problem.

I hope i haven't done perm damage to the clutch. if you don't mind me asking...how much did fixing the tps cost or this a do-it-yourself type job?

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by cocacola08


I figured it was similar to your problem.

I hope i haven't done perm damage to the clutch. if you don't mind me asking...how much did fixing the tps cost or this a do-it-yourself type job?

The TPS cost me around 130.00. It's an easy part to install, but, less easy to calibrate. SVX_commuter has done an extensive write-up on the TPS install and testing procedures, located in the "How-to" personal locker.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/1333.htm

[Beav]

And a good job he did, however the only way to be absolutely sure about a tps is to use a 'scope. A single millisecond glitch in the sweep of the sensor can screw up the program and cause weird reactions. DVOMs typically don't sample fast enough (there are exceptions, naturally) and their displays are way slower than their sample rate. And your eyes are slower than the displays....

Beav