'Check Engine' Warning Lamp

[The Monzta]

Every now and again, the 'Check Engine' warning light comes on whilst I'm driving. I stays on for no longer than a second and then it may not happen again for a few days. I take it if I actually had an engine problem the light would stay illuminated?

Any idea what the problem could be?

[pottsy]

Does the light come on in the rain or when the car is wet? My light comes on for a very short while whenever I take the car through a car wash! Either its the high pressure water affecting the wiring or its sensing water ingress into the engine air filter/up exhaust. Either way the light goes out pretty quickly. If its anything like mine, its probably nothing to worry about.

Thanks for the recommendation over Protechnical - took my car there and they were great.

Pottsy

[The Monzta]

Originally posted by pottsy
Does the light come on in the rain or when the car is wet? My light comes on for a very short while whenever I take the car through a car wash! Either its the high pressure water affecting the wiring or its sensing water ingress into the engine air filter/up exhaust. Either way the light goes out pretty quickly. If its anything like mine, its probably nothing to worry about.

Thanks for the recommendation over Protechnical - took my car there and they were great.

Pottsy

Hi Pottsy,

The light just comes on of its own accord mate. At first I thought it was only when I did sharp right-handers (roundabouts etc) but it comes on willy-nilly in any weather condition.

Glad you found Protechnical useful, bloody handy with you living in the same town as them eh? :D

[b3lha]

Hi Monzta,

We've had the "Check Wallet" light a few times. The dealer said that it means that one of the sensors has returned a reading outside of the expected normal range. If the light does not stay on then you can ignore it.

You can get the ECU to tell you what sensor is causing the error by using the blue wire trick described elsewhere on this site.

Phil.

[The Monzta]

Thanks for that Phil. It's a relief to know by engine isn't about to go Kaboom in acloud of smoke and twenty pound notes. My mechanic has all the diagnostic kit to plug into the car so I'll ask him to check it out when I next see him.

[Timbo]

Montza, Phil's right. It usually just means that one of the sensors has jigged a little out of spec and doesn't mean it'll cost you heaps. It is important though to have the diagnostics run occasionally and the codes cleared regularly as they build up over time and can cause problems of their own if things get a little cramped in the black box.
Good luck,
Tim

[The Monzta]

Thanks for that Tim, I'll give my man a call and book the car in for some jobs that need doing and while he's got it I'll get him to check the codes and then clear them. He checked them last time I left the car with him and it showed a lambda sensor trigger. He told me to stop being a skinflint and change to super unleaded.......I did and the problem went away. :)

[The Monzta]

OK guys, ' Check Engine' light is now staying on anywhere between five seconds and two minutes at a time. Still no rhyme or reason that I can see as to why it should be coming on, it's just intermittent. Some days it doesn't come on at all and others it's on and off all day. Today though has been the worst coming on for protracted periods when both moving along and sitting in traffic. I've checked all fluid levels and listened for any strange noises, but nothing seems out of order. Should I be going into panic mode right about now? :confused:

[svxistentialist]

I would not panic for now...... But maybe in 5 minutes or so..:rolleyes: :D

Seriously Monzta, you can't ignore it if it's coming on more. Probably means one of your sensors, or more than one, is sending "funny" signals. Or broken.

Like Phil says, do the blue wire thingy. Full instructions here:

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?How-To|14264

under the first file on code instructions.

Read the two pages, you can easily do it yourself without waiting on your mechanic.

Joe:)

[The Monzta]

Thanks for that Joe, except when I clicked on your link to the 'diagnostic codes/blinking lights' folder it was empty. :(

Is this info held anywhere else on the site?

[Andy]

Try here


http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/14337.doc

[svxistentialist]

No Monzta

Those files are not empty. It's just that all of them except the last one are Word documents. You using a Mac or something? Have you got Microsoft emulation software?

If you click on the link again, then click on Engine, then click on Codes, the last file, list of Engine Codes is a bitmap, .bmp, it's laboriously big on my slow system, but you should be able to read all the codes from it. [remember to enlarge it!]

I will cut and paste the text from the ones you want in the next couple of posts, OK?

Joe:)

[svxistentialist]

Check Engine Code Instructions

Directions for checking the Codes
1) Remove the kick panel just beside the left foot rest on the driver's side.
2) Locate blue wires.
3) Locate black connector. Hold it notch up.
4) With ignition off, insert one of the wires into top row, 2nd pin from left.
5) Turn key to on position, but do not start the car.
6) Watch blinky check engine light on dashboard. Count blinks. Long blinks = 10, Short blinks = 1.
7) Keep watching blinky light until you get mesmorized.

so far so good

[svxistentialist]

To clear codes (after problem has been resolved):
1) With engine off, stick the blue wires to 1st and 2nd pin in the top row counting from left on the
black connector, with notch facing up.
2) Start car. Shut off car. Remove pins.
3) Read codes to make sure they are clear. No codes = steady blinks at 1/4 second intervals.

and still, so far so good

[svxistentialist]

CODE PROBABLE CAUSE
11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit
12 Starter Switch or Circuit
13 Cam Position Sensor or Circuit (TDC Sensor on Justy)
14 Fuel Injector No. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
14 Fuel Injector No. 1 and 2 (XT, Loyale, GL, DL)
15 Fuel Injector No. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
15 Fuel Injector No. 3 and 4 (Loyale, GL, DL)
15 Fuel Injector No. 5 and 6 (XT-6)
16 Fuel Injector No. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX)
16 Fuel Injector No. 3 and 4 (XT)
17 Fuel Injector No. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX)
17 Fuel injector No. 1 and 2 (XT-6)
18 Fuel Injector No. 5 (SVX)
19 Fuel Injector No. 6 (SVX)
21 Coolant Temperature Sensor or Circuit
22 Knock Sensor or Circuit (Right Side on SVX)
23 Air Flow Meter or Circuit (Exc. Justy)
23 Pressure Sensor (Justy)
24 Air Control Valve or Circuit (Exc. Justy)
24 Idle Speed Control Solenoid Valve (Justy)
25 Fuel injector No. 3 and 4 (XT-6)
26 Air Temperature Sensor (Justy)
28 Knock Sensor No. 2 (SVX, Left Side)
29 Crank Angle Sensor (SVX, No. 2)
31 Throttle Position Sensor or Circuit
32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit (No. 1, Right Side, On SVX)
33 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or Circuit
34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit
35 Purge Control Solenoid or Circuit
36 Air Suction Solenoid Valve (Impreza)
36 Ignitor Circuit (Justy)
37 Oxygen Sensor (No. 2, Left Side, On SVX)
38 Engine Torque Control (SVX)
41 Air/Fuel Adaptive Control
42 Idle Switch or Circuit
43 Throttle Switch (Justy)
44 Wastegate Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models)
45 Pressure Sensor Duty Solenoid (Turbo Models)
45 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor or Circuit (Non- Turbo Models) 49 Airflow Sensor
51 Neutral Switch (Manual Transmission Models)
51 Inhibitor Switch (Automatic Transmission Models)
52 Parking Brake Switch (Exc. Justy)
52 Clutch Switch (Justy)
55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit
56 EGR System
61 Parking Brake Switch (Loyale)
61 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid (Impreza)
62 Fuel Temperature Sensor (Impreza)
62 Electric Load Signal (Justy)
63 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (Impreza)
63 Blower Fan Switch (Justy)
65 Vacuum Pressure Sensor

and on we go...

[svxistentialist]

To perform the TCU self diag test for EXISTING problems
1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
4) Turn ignition switch OFF.
5) Move selector lever to D and turn manual switch ON.
6) Turn ignition switch ON.
7) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch OFF.
8) Move selector level to "2" and turn manual switch ON.
9) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch OFF.
10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.

more info than you asked for...

[svxistentialist]

To perform the TCU self diag test for PREVIOUS problems
1) Warm up engine by driving at speeds greater than 12mph.
2) Stop vehicle and turn ignition switch OFF.
3) Turn ignition switch ON and make sure POWER indicator lamp comes on.
4) Turn ignition switch OFF.
5) Move selector lever to "1" and turn manual switch ON.
6) Turn ignition switch ON.
7) Move selector lever to "2" and turn manual switch OFF.
8) Move selector lever to "3" and turn manual switch ON.
9) Move selector lever to "D" and trun manual switch OFF.
10) Partially depress accelerator pedal (to turn idle switch off).
11) Check code as displayed on POWER light. Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal.


more powerful information

[svxistentialist]

Trouble codes:
11. Duty solenoid A
12. Duty solenoid B
13. Shift solenoid 3
14. Shift solenoid 2
15. Shift solenoid 1
21. ATF temp sensor
22. Atmospheric sensor
23. Engine revolution signal
24. Duty solenoid C
25. Engine torque control signal
31. Throttle sensor
32. Vehicle speed sensor 1
33. Vehicle speed sensor 2


that's all she wrote

[The Monzta]

Originally posted by svxistentialist
No Monzta

Those files are not empty. It's just that all of them except the last one are Word documents. You using a Mac or something? Have you got Microsoft emulation software?

If you click on the link again, then click on Engine, then click on Codes, the last file, list of Engine Codes is a bitmap, .bmp, it's laboriously big on my slow system, but you should be able to read all the codes from it. [remember to enlarge it!]

I will cut and paste the text from the ones you want in the next couple of posts, OK?

Joe:)

Joe,

Thanks for all those posts. I couldn't see the link in your first post because our computer system here at work has so many firewalls and anti-virus programmes that sometimes I just can't open even simple links. Once I got my machine at home back together after a rebuild I was able to click on the link and everything was fine.

Armed with all the info you've given me I shall have a crack at checking the codes tonight. Will keep you posted.

Thanks again. :)

[svxistentialist]

You're welcome. I hope the codes show up something simple and curable.

BTW, have you checked on the JAE Billings thread? The show is on 24/25 July if you fancy coming, and meeting more members.
Saturday night is likely for the knees-up.

See you there if you're coming.

But let Phil Hill know straight off if you're putting your car on the stand any day:D Wednesday the deadline!.....

Joe:)

[The Monzta]

Finally got the codes checked by my mechanic. The fault seems to be a knock sensor problem. Can anyone confirm how many there are on the engine? I believe it's two, I know where one is (just behind the alternator) but if there is another, where is it? How easy, or should I say difficult, are they to fit?

Finally, where would be a better place to get them from that would be cheaper than Subaru? Are the ones fitted to the American engines the same as ours?

Glenn :cool:

[svxistentialist]

Glenn

If your mechanic can check the codes, he[she?] ought to be able to specify which knock sensor it is that is causing the problem.

Code 22 is for the RH knock sensor, and code 28 is for the LH sensor, so it should be obvious.

I am not sure exactly where they are fitted, but there is one for each block of cylinders.

They must be really easy to fit. The US ones are sure to be the exact same, and 1stSubaruParts will post them to you.


Joe:)