STi (group N) motor mounts installed

[mbtoloczko]

STi group N motor mounts have been installed. It was done as part of the 5MT upgrade that is in-progress and also for HP additions coming later on. Anyhow, the mounts are not a straight bolt-in mod. The STi mounts are about 1/4" shorter than the SVX mounts. My mechanic (oppositelock) ended up using the SVX mounting plate. He had to slot the holes in the plate and weld a 1/4" thick spacer plate to the mounting plate to make everything line up properly. I'll let oppositelock add the details. He's got pictures too. One of us will be adding them soon.

[Subafreak]

How about them pick? :D


I only dig this up becouse I found out I had a broken motor mount when I pulled my motor out, it probly happend during the devastating launch but if I tore it then I'm sure I'm gonna do it again. So where can I get these and what is a good price for them?

[Beav]

I'm looking for a reasonable alternative also. As far as I'm concerned Subaru can either make their price reasonable or pitch the stock in the dumpster. Good grief, hydraulic mounts for a 32valve Lincoln are around $48 @ NAPA.

[mbtoloczko]

How about them pick? :D

Pics in my locker here:

<http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?mbtoloczko|25050>

The mounts are available from many places. Since you are near the East Coast, I'd recommend Rallispec at $86/pair (very good deal):

http://www.rallispec.com/

If you don't already have the Group N tranny mount for your 6MT, you might want to get one of those too.

[GreenMarine]

STi group N motor mounts have been installed. It was done as part of the 5MT upgrade that is in-progress and also for HP additions coming later on. Anyhow, the mounts are not a straight bolt-in mod. The STi mounts are about 1/4" shorter than the SVX mounts. My mechanic (oppositelock) ended up using the SVX mounting plate. He had to slot the holes in the plate and weld a 1/4" thick spacer plate to the mounting plate to make everything line up properly. I'll let oppositelock add the details. He's got pictures too. One of us will be adding them soon.

Does it do anything noticable??? Vibration... Shifting ease.... Niose??? Any of those change over stock??

[mbtoloczko]

My only comparison would be with the 4eat and the stock engine mounts. Compared to that, there is a slight increase in vibration, but nothing even mildly annoying. No increase in noise. Can't compare shifting performance and driveline stiffness, but I can tell you that the Group N engine mounts have travel limiters that only allow about 1/4" total engine rock.

[Subafreak]

Hell that price don't sound bad! I'm assuming the STI mounts are just solid rubber instead of liquid filled? And that in return they are less breakable?

I already got the tranny mount, I belive they are a neccesity with a manual in the SVX.

[blacknite]

i bought mine at subaruparts.com for $125 for both of them with shipping. Took about 4 days to arrive.And yeah they are solid rubber... I believe a lot better than stock. I also have the 5 speed trany. when my stock motormounts went bad. It destroyed my clutch cable and the fork. So I end up replacing tranny and clutch. I replace 3 time the clutch cable before it got to the tranny part. Once i replace all the tranny stuff i check on the mounts and that was the couse of all my pain. So check them!!!!!

[mbtoloczko]

Hell that price don't sound bad! I'm assuming the STI mounts are just solid rubber instead of liquid filled? And that in return they are less breakable?

I already got the tranny mount, I belive they are a neccesity with a manual in the SVX.

Yeah, you will not break them. Because of the travel limiters build into Group N engine mounts (look at pic #3 in my locker), there is no way for the mount to stretch more than about 1/4". After that, it hits a rubber coated metal stop.

Are you sure that your 6MT tranny mount is the Group N version? There is a standard STi 6MT tranny mount that looks similar but uses a softer rubber compound than the Group N 6MT tranny mount.

[Subafreak]

Yeah, you will not break them. Because of the travel limiters build into Group N engine mounts (look at pic #3 in my locker), there is no way for the mount to stretch more than about 1/4". After that, it hits a rubber coated metal stop.

Are you sure that your 6MT tranny mount is the Group N version? There is a standard STi 6MT tranny mount that looks similar but uses a softer rubber compound than the Group N 6MT tranny mount.


Well isn't that a good question? I'm not sure if it's the group N mount but it is a hell of alot stiffer than the rubberband stock one.

[Beav]

The stock SVX mounts also have travel limiters built into the brackets, as you describe.

[mbtoloczko]

My recollection is that the OEM SVX engine mounts only have compressive travel limiters. Is this incorrect?

[Beav]

Incorrect. The tabs sit inside pockets.

[longassname]

does anybody have oem motor mounts laying around. I've blown mine and want to order the group n motor mounts. I'm hoping I can get my hands on a borrowed or diverted to me before the trash can set of svx mounts so I can fabricate the adaptor plates before pulling the remains of my mounter mounts out of the car.

[Subafreak]

Well I already told Dave he could have mine, sorry :rolleyes:

At least your still gonna get the intake ;)

[longassname]

Well I already told Dave he could have mine, sorry :rolleyes:

At least your still gonna get the intake ;)


I need to do these motor mounts with a quickness. Every time i get on it now the motor twists so much that both the supercharger and the ac compressor pulleys hit the hood. Speeking of which, I'd say the group n motor mount conversion is a good idea for anyone with their original 10 year old mounts planning on getting stage III.

[Subafreak]

With all this talk, I think I'm probly gonna need them with a quikness after my first trip to the strip. :rolleyes:

[Chris]

I have blown through two sets of OEM motor mounts with the racing I do. I dont like the price either! :eek:

Sounds like it might be time for another development project... How about solid urethane(sp) mounts?

Will look in the shop to see if my old and broke ones are still there for sending to a company for development. :D

[SVXRide]

Mychailo,
sent you an email....
-Bill

[AFBeefcake]

I would buy a set if there bolt in, or if some one sales mouting plate for the sti ones.

[longassname]

I have blown through two sets of OEM motor mounts with the racing I do. I dont like the price either! :eek:

Sounds like it might be time for another development project... How about solid urethane(sp) mounts?

Will look in the shop to see if my old and broke ones are still there for sending to a company for development. :D

How about sending them to me first so I can make adaptor plates for the sti group n mounts?

[TomsSVX]

are you sure that that the thickness is exactly 1/4"? I am thinking of getting these to comfort the stage 2 in the future. Thnx for the reply.

Tom

[Chris]

How about sending them to me first so I can make adaptor plates for the sti group n mounts?

OK, wel gotta get out to Nampa (shop location) and see if they are still there. Will keep you informed.

[Earthworm]

I'm currently researching getting custom SVX engine mounts made which is why Subafreak is sending me his. As soon as I get them I'll get a quote and see how much it will cost to get a group buy done.

BTW, What's the status of those mounts Jesse?

[TomsSVX]

Are these the mounts I should be buying? I want to order them today if possible as to get them sooner

Ebay auction (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50454&item=7970221660&rd=1)

Tom

[Earthworm]

If you want those STi mounts cheaper go to http://www.rallispec.com/

[immortal_suby]

How about sending them to me first so I can make adaptor plates for the sti group n mounts?

I have a set on the engine in my garage - one is in 2 pieces (the rubber completely separated). The other is intact. Can you use them even if one is broken?

[longassname]

If you want those STi mounts cheaper go to http://www.rallispec.com/


They are currently out of stock.

[longassname]

I have a set on the engine in my garage - one is in 2 pieces (the rubber completely separated). The other is intact. Can you use them even if one is broken?


Ya that would be awesome. I would guess the two sides are mirror images.

[immortal_suby]

Ya that would be awesome. I would guess the two sides are mirror images.

I'll send them out as soon as I have time to hoist up the engine and remove them.

[Mrbadfish]

I would buy a set if there bolt in, or if some one sales mouting plate for the sti ones


....me too....

[longassname]

I'll send them out as soon as I have time to hoist up the engine and remove them.


write me before you go to the trouble....I may be being an idiot. I do have an extra engine after all--there may be mounts on it. I'm going back down there today. This time I'll be coming back with the shop equipment :).

[Earthworm]

I would buy a set if there bolt in, or if some one sales mouting plate for the sti ones.The ones I'm going to get made will be direct bolt in and will have the stiffness you specify.

[TomsSVX]

Ok... I watched Jesse tear his mount at the track while he was doing an N/A launch. Makes me think that the 111k mounts in the car might not last much longer if I race it. Sooooooo... Why doesn't somebody start to make brackets for them? I have an extra set of brackets to get someone interested. BTW Jesse, if u read this, You think I could do all the fab with a lath and a mill?? ;) :D :D Sorry I had to say it

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Ok just got the infof rom rali-spec. I will call and order a set in the morning.

Tom

[n00b on demand]

BTW Jesse, if u read this, You think I could do all the fab with a lath and a mill?? ;) :D :D Sorry I had to say it

Tom

:rolleyes:

[TomsSVX]

What??? common it had comedic value to it.... :D

Tom

[longassname]

come on now........ must i build everything for you guys ;) lol

seriously though did he have his pitch stop mount installed? I know a lot of guys that do the 5mt don't bother to put it back in which seems not to really matter on a stock svx but I've found once you start putting out some real power the engine moves all over the place on you. I had it out and with the supercharger the whole engine would jump and hit the hood.

[TomsSVX]

I would assume had had his pitch mount installed. I know I do. I don't need you to make the brackets for me as I can do it, just for people who don't want the hassle

Tom

[Subafreak]

BTW Jesse, if u read this, You think I could do all the fab with a lath and a mill?? ;) :D :D Sorry I had to say it

Tom


I think I might make them out of wax. ;) :D

[Subafreak]

come on now........ must i build everything for you guys ;) lol

seriously though did he have his pitch stop mount installed? I know a lot of guys that do the 5mt don't bother to put it back in which seems not to really matter on a stock svx but I've found once you start putting out some real power the engine moves all over the place on you. I had it out and with the supercharger the whole engine would jump and hit the hood.



Yes I had my pitch stopper in. :rolleyes: But it was one of the worst launches in history, it was tire hopping untill I shifted second. :eek: Very bad. :o

But I have still seen way to many broken SVX mounts to bother replacing them with stock ones.

And a HUGEthanks to Tom for hooking me up with some group N goodness. Hay Tom I will hook you up with what ever it is I need to make to make these work as soon as I figure out what that is. :confused: Just don't get it to hot, the wax might start to melt :( Damn why didn't I get a mill instead. :mad: :D

[SVXRide]

Okay, we've got Dave Clark out on the West Coast who has fab'ed the Group N mounts on Mychailo's SVX and we've LAN here on the East Coast with a full blown machine shop....would someone PLEASE start fabricating the adapters :cool: :D :D
-Bill (already in line with his $$ to buy a set of adapters....)

[TomsSVX]

Dude, all yopy need is a 1/4" plte to adapt the stock mounting brackets. It can be bolted on or welded, I don't see why it would need to be welded as it will be we4ld by the mount anway.... Then again I am drunk soo....

TOm

[SVXRide]

Dude, all yopy need is a 1/4" plte to adapt the stock mounting brackets. It can be bolted on or welded, I don't see why it would need to be welded as it will be we4ld by the mount anway.... Then again I am drunk soo....

TOm

Hope you're not driving :eek:
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

I apalogize for that i was minorly intoxicated last night. :o

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Jesse you are more than welcome for all of the work you did for me. Also, I have a request if you have an extra I will send you a PM.

Tom

[Beav]

Is the mount for the manual trans the same as the automatic (roughly)? I took a good look at how the mounts flex under acceleration while I had someone working the throttle, on a drive-on rack. Being primarily designed as a FWD vehicle the engine mounts lift equally on both sides, the torque strut acts as a pivot and the trans mount is collapsed as torque increases. Given the short range of motion at the engine mounts and that they have built-in limit tabs I think the trans mount is what could stand some beefing up.

As you look at the trans mount, at least on the autobox, the supporting pillows at the sides are fairly soft and allow quite a bit of motion. There are two small pillows near the center that seem to act as travel limiters and a center bolt with a rubber donut below the x-member that limits the tranny from lifting to high and tearing the side pillows apart when in reverse.

On my car, and I recall others also mentioning this, there began to be times when buzziness could be felt in the steering wheel and the gas pedal. I found that the engine had shifted on its mounts and required re-centering. Loosening the three x-member nuts on the trans mount and loosening the trans end of the torque strut (slotted hole) allowed me to use a pry bar and re-center the center stud of the trans mount in its hole. It actually moved about 1/2-3/4 inch. I then loosened the exhaust at the manifolds and found they had been shifted also as a result. I 'persuaded' the hanger bracket at the rear of the trans in order for the pipes to meet the manifolds without having to tighten their nuts. After I tightened the exhaust back up I lowered the car to the ground, started it up and drove it back and forth about ten feet, using just enough gas to get it moving in each direction. Before coming to a stop while moving forward I slipped it into neutral before touching the brake pedal. This allowed the engine and trans to find center and I could then tighten the torque strut without it being loaded in either direction.

Since doing this (and it's a lot easier to do than type it out) the buzziness in the pedals and steering is gone. I then noticed when coming to a stop there seemed to be a little vibration remaining. I found that if I kept my foot on the brake and shifted to neutral I could feel something relaxing. When I returned it to drive, with my foot still on the brake, the vibration was gone. Apparently what is happening is that trans mount is still compressed and sitting on the limiter pillows. Sometime next week I'll drop the trans x-member and slip a shock absorber rubber mounting washer onto the center stud to keep the mount from deflecting so far. I'll update here as I find out how that works out. This could be the primary cause of the driveling slop many complain about as nothing else seemed to move anywhere near as much as the trans mount.

[Beav]

p.s.

For those that have excessive motion at the engine mounts why not just weld a washer or two on the bottom side of the limiting tab pockets? That would keep them from lifting too high and destroying the mounts without compromising the isolation quality during normal driving.

[SVXRide]

Just for the "visual" folks out there....here's the stock trans mount
-Bill
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/SVXRide/28907.jpg

[SVXRide]

and here's a solution (?)
-Bill
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/SVXRide/28906.jpg

[TomsSVX]

With the group N trans mount on the 5mt there is still a good deal of slop in the driveline. Once the group N motor mounts are installed it should take a good bit out of it. I will also be re-installing the rear subframe bushings that i tried before to see if they help also. I feel that most of the slop we feel is in the movement of the motor mounts. They are soft hydroulic mounts that seem to allow for a lot of cusion. This may be an active part in the car's luxury apeal to all of you but I can sacrifice that. I am looking to have a pretty solid driveline when i am done. The motor mounts, trans mount, and subframe bushings should keep my carp nice and firm. I will let everyone know how they feel as I install them one by one. I do agree with Beav that the trans mount allows for a great deal of movement but I know or a fact that you will lose a good deal of luxury when converting to a harder mount, just be ready for that...

Tom

[SVXRide]

*snip* I do agree with Beav that the trans mount allows for a great deal of movement but I know or a fact that you will lose a good deal of luxury when converting to a harder mount, just be ready for that...

Tom


Tom,
Yep, you're definitely right there...
-Bill

[mbtoloczko]

With the group N trans mount on the 5mt there is still a good deal of slop in the driveline. Once the group N motor mounts are installed it should take a good bit out of it. I will also be re-installing the rear subframe bushings that i tried before to see if they help also. I feel that most of the slop we feel is in the movement of the motor mounts. They are soft hydroulic mounts that seem to allow for a lot of cusion. This may be an active part in the car's luxury apeal to all of you but I can sacrifice that. I am looking to have a pretty solid driveline when i am done. The motor mounts, trans mount, and subframe bushings should keep my carp nice and firm. I will let everyone know how they feel as I install them one by one. I do agree with Beav that the trans mount allows for a great deal of movement but I know or a fact that you will lose a good deal of luxury when converting to a harder mount, just be ready for that...

Tom

I've got the Group N motor and tranny mounts, and there is still a fair amount of slop in the drivetrain of my car. Maybe its not as much as with the SVX motor mounts, but its still enough that I have to be very smooth on the throttle in low gears to keep the car from bucking back and forth. The pitch stopper is properly installed, and the rear x-member seems to be plenty stout, so there has to be something else that adds a lot of slop. My thought is that its the rear subframe. There's actually two sets of bushings on the rear subframe. svxfiles addressed one set, but there is another set further up that appears to have even more free play.

I was very surprised at how little vibration the Group N motor and tranny mounts transmit to the car. There is barely any more vibration than with the OEM SVX mounts.

[TomsSVX]

I agree Mychailo, there is still a good deal of slop. I want to adress all of these areas where it may be coming from. Like I said, once I have these things done I will check back.

Come to think of it, A good deal of this slop may be affiliated with the 2 peice driveshaft. A good one peice would probobly take care of a lot of that....hmmm maybe a new thing to spend money on??

Tom

[Subafreak]

Really need to get my mounts in. I noticed this weekend when fallowing my wife that my exaust is acctually twisted in the back from the motor being higher on one side, and when looking at it closer I realized that the left tip is actually hitting the bumper it's so high :eek: Hopefully tomorrow. ;)

[SVXRide]

Really need to get my mounts in. I noticed this weekend when fallowing my wife that my exaust is acctually twisted in the back from the motor being higher on one side, and when looking at it closer I realized that the left tip is actually hitting the bumper it's so high :eek: Hopefully tomorrow. ;)

Jesse,
does this mean you're going to take a shot at fab'ing the adapters for the Group N mounts (hope so!)?
-Bill (stepping to the front of the "Jesse's custom Group N motor mounts" line :D )

[Subafreak]

Jesse,
does this mean you're going to take a shot at fab'ing the adapters for the Group N mounts (hope so!)?
-Bill (stepping to the front of the "Jesse's custom Group N motor mounts" line :D )



Well from what I've been reading your just need a 1/4 peice of metal between the top of the mount an the mounting plate, but from looking at them so far comparing a broken mount and stuff, it would seem like useing the SVX mounting plate is the way to go becouse it bolts to the motor with three bolts instead of only two, plus the mounting plate that comes with the mounts would put the mount in the wrong spot. So with that being said the group N-mount does not fit in the stock mounting plate at all, the bolt spread is different and it seems like it needs more that a quarter inch to clear the edges of the mounting plate, so I may need to grind down the sides of the mounting plate along with elongating the bolt holes. But it's hard to tell for sure with out having a good stock mount at the moment to compare mounting hight and location. I'm sure I could whip out a hundred 1/4" aluminum spacers with two holes in them but you would still need to take out the mounting plate and do some grinding..........thats the way it looks right now anyway. :confused:

[TomsSVX]

here are some pics from mychailo's locker

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/mbtoloczko/25051.jpg

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/mbtoloczko/25052.jpg

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/mbtoloczko/25053.JPG

I hope these help. Mind whipping up an extra set of brackets for me?? there should be an extra set in the mess of parts

Tom

[Subafreak]

Yes thanks for those pics Tom, don't know why I couldn't find them. :o Anyway it does look pretty simple , so hopefully I can toss them in tomorrow night, and I should be able to whip you up a set of spacers Tom. ;)

[mbtoloczko]

Jesse, I have an extra OEM motor mount if you want one to use for comparison. Besides clearing the mounting plate, I'm wondering if the spacer is necessary to put the engine at the correct height. I think Dave Clark said that when he made mine, he used the 1/4" thick plate for that reason. You might want to double-check that though.

[SVXRide]

Yes thanks for those pics Tom, don't know why I couldn't find them. :o Anyway it does look pretty simple , so hopefully I can toss them in tomorrow night, and I should be able to whip you up a set of spacers Tom. ;)

Hey, no "cutters"....get back in line :rolleyes: :D :D
-Bill (wondering if there is time to get a set fabricated and installed before 9/17...)

[Subafreak]

Jesse, I have an extra OEM motor mount if you want one to use for comparison. Besides clearing the mounting plate, I'm wondering if the spacer is necessary to put the engine at the correct height. I think Dave Clark said that when he made mine, he used the 1/4" thick plate for that reason. You might want to double-check that though.



Well I should know by tommorow night, I have one good mount still but it's under my car so I can't look at it yet :D

[TomsSVX]

Hey, no "cutters"....get back in line :rolleyes: :D :D
-Bill (wondering if there is time to get a set fabricated and installed before 9/17...)


Hey now, do you even have a set of mounts?? I know I do and so does Jesse, lets leave this party to people with parts ;) :D

Tom

[SVXRide]

Hey now, do you even have a set of mounts?? I know I do and so does Jesse, lets leave this party to people with parts ;) :D

Tom

Oh, the old "I've got parts" routine :rolleyes: :p :D (what were the part numbers for the Group N mounts again? ;) )
-Bill (not willing to give up his place in line...)

[TomsSVX]

I picked 2 sets up from Ralispec for about $191 shipped. Go to their site and give them a call to place the order, the link to their site is on the first page of this thread

Tom

[SVXRide]

Okay, I'll have mine by Monday (still $86/pair + $8 for shipping):D :D
-Bill (not about to give up his spot in line :cool: )

[Earthworm]

I have Jesse's old mounts :D

[Subafreak]

Well after two hours of persice measuring and angle locating I was able to fabricate a direct fitting, strong, and easily made adapter out of the finest rare materials.................6 big washers per side; go get in line at the hardware store. :rolleyes:

[TomsSVX]

Jesse, What was the exact height? I am probobly gonna have a friend throw some stock at me so I can just make plates??

Tom

[SVXRide]

Well after two hours of persice measuring and angle locating I was able to fabricate a direct fitting, strong, and easily made adapter out of the finest rare materials.................6 big washers per side; go get in line at the hardware store. :rolleyes:

:eek: :eek: :D :D

Think you can put some dimensions on Mychailo's pics so those of us that want to go the "1/4" steel plate with holes in it route" vs the "6 big washers" route can make it happen? ;) :D

-Bill

[wawazat??]

:eek: :eek: :D :D

Think you can put some dimensions on Mychailo's pics so those of us that want to go the "1/4" steel plate with holes in it route" vs the "6 big washers" route can make it happen? ;) :D

-Bill

Sure Mr. SCCA Tech Inspector, FHI ROUTINELY used these precisely made, plated circular devices you offhandedly refer to as mere washers :rolleyes: for its tight tolerance interface of engine to frame...yeah, that's the ticket!

:p

Todd

[SVXRide]

Sure Mr. SCCA Tech Inspector, FHI ROUTINELY used these precisely made, plated circular devices you offhandedly refer to as mere washers :rolleyes: for its tight tolerance interface of engine to frame...yeah, that's the ticket!

:p

Todd


"You know, when I bought the car the Subaru Salesman said that was a performance option that Subaru decided not to advertise."

:p :D :D

-Bill

[Subafreak]

Sure. Well if I had a better plazma cutter or metal shear I would have cut a bunch of 2" by 2 1/2" aluminum plates with two holes drilled in the appropriet place. ;) I spent most of my time trying to find a way to easily make the spacers but it was getting late so I just grabbed a few washers and bolted the damn things in.

In reality the washers will work just fine becouse of the way the mounts fit in the mount plates. The mounts sit in on the edge of the mounting plates on three corners and the washer hold up the middle. It never gonna go anywhere and it plenty strong (and if it's not you know I will find out first :D ).

You just need to grind out the mounting plate slots a little so they evenly go in enough to fit the studs of the new mounts. Stick a 1/4" amout of big washers on the studs and bolt them in. It puts them in just the right spot at just the right hight. ;)

[TomsSVX]

Sweet maybe I will start grinding and washering tomorrow :D

Tom

[Subafreak]

Sweet maybe I will start grinding and washering tomorrow :D

Tom



YOU CAN DO AT!!!!!!! :D

[SVXRide]

Jesse,
So are you saying that the 1/4" plate that's welded on Mychailo's plate is just raised up 1/4" at it's back end (the front end being welded to the mounting plate)?
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

Ok, just actually looked at the mount and the bracket today... Definately don't line up... Am I using one on the holes as a base and grinding the other, or am I centering it in the bracket?? I got the washers down and know what else to do but am I grind both holes on the bracket or should I leave one and grind the other? If so which side am I grinding??? I do not have a spare stock mount and I wanna have the new ones ready before I rip my old ones out

Tom

[Subafreak]

Tom grind them both evenly inward along the whole length of the slot, that way they kinda center them selves.



No Bill the whole plate raises up 1/4" up to support the center part of the mount where the studs are.

[TomsSVX]

I have the mounts bolted up to the brackets and ready to go in the car tomorrow. Jesse, did you put your's in yet or are you just wating for a good time? Anyway I will let you know how the install goes once I am finished...hey Bill, did ya finish yet??? BTW for anyone interested I may be going twin turbo... the turbos on my bro's car survived the fire :D :D Just a thought right now, I would probobly go RWD w/ the Z trans if I did go that route.

Tom

[Subafreak]

Yeah , I put them in on the same night Tom. I kinda needed them. ;)




So how exactly is yuor brother gonna make any money off this car? :D

[SVXRide]

I have the mounts bolted up to the brackets and ready to go in the car tomorrow. Jesse, did you put your's in yet or are you just wating for a good time? Anyway I will let you know how the install goes once I am finished...hey Bill, did ya finish yet??? BTW for anyone interested I may be going twin turbo... the turbos on my bro's car survived the fire :D :D Just a thought right now, I would probobly go RWD w/ the Z trans if I did go that route.

Tom

Tom,
Nope, not yet... I got the mounts on Friday....was racing all afternoon today at FedEX!
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

I will be buying the parts. I am getting the monza exhaust for free for all of the help I have given him with this whole fiasco. I will give him $300 for the wheels. I am thinking of giving him 250 for the turbos... I knwo they are in good working condition. Not to mention he has some sick downpipes for them too. As for the trans... screw it, I will keep blowing up 5mt's until i finally go for the 6mt whenver the heck that happens. I am now on the search for a good Z32 MAF and saving money to buy the stage 3v4 or v5 whenever that comes out :rolleyes: . I also need to get in touch with SVXtacy to see about what system he is using for the remote injector control, I will probobly go with a similar setup. I will go into a better discusion for plans in the Z32 thread....

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Well, finally got time today to get my mounts in. The fab for the brackets was easy the second time around but there was quite a bit of grind and checking and then more grinding the first time. The mounting of them took longer than the fab work... I could not get to the rear mounting bolts for the life of me. Then once I began the reinstall of the new mounts, I could not get a socket on the middle bolt so I needed to use a wrench and turn it like 1/32'' each time... Anyway it took a while but it was well worth it, there is close to no engine rock right now. I am taking apart one of my old mounts as an experiment. I found that my driver's side mount was torn and slowly leaking oil. It was good timing to get new ones, I did not even know one was bad.

Tom

[Subafreak]

Yeah there is that about the bolts. The rear ones are not to hard to get to, I had to loosen them and retighen them with a wrench but then I could take them out the rest of the way with a quarter inch drive swivel and extension. The middle one is almost impossible to tighen with the new mount in, I got it pretty tight with the 1/4" drive set up I had. ;)

[TomsSVX]

Well i was able to get a ratchet and socket on the rear ones, just a lot of cuts on my arms now :rolleyes: The middle one next to impossible but with a wrench and some patience I got it tight

Tom

[Chiketkd]

Well, finally got time today to get my mounts in. The fab for the brackets was easy the second time around but there was quite a bit of grind and checking and then more grinding the first time. The mounting of them took longer than the fab work... I could not get to the rear mounting bolts for the life of me. Then once I began the reinstall of the new mounts, I could not get a socket on the middle bolt so I needed to use a wrench and turn it like 1/32'' each time... Anyway it took a while but it was well worth it, there is close to no engine rock right now. I am taking apart one of my old mounts as an experiment. I found that my driver's side mount was torn and slowly leaking oil. It was good timing to get new ones, I did not even know one was bad.

Tom
Tom,

Can you take some pics of the motor mounts installed on your car? Congrats on firming up your ride even more! :)

1.9 60ft times should happen at the dragstrip!

-Chike

[SVXRide]

Tom,
Ditto on Chike's Pics request ;) Did the washer stack basically raise the outer edge by 1/4 of an inch?
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

I would take pics but was too lazy to go buy batteries for the camera. It is basically the same as Mychailo's pics minues the welded plate, it has 3 wahers hold it 1/4" higher. Don't forget to grind down the edges of the bracket so the mount will clear, I was scratching my head at first but then realized what I needed to do. I used a cutting wheel to take the edges offas it made things move along much easier

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Well Chike had batteries for his camera at ripken field autoX and took a pic of my pass side motor mount

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/Chiketkd/29463.jpg

Tom

[SVXRide]

Tom,
Did Chike take one that was actually in focus? :rolleyes: :D
I can't tell from the photo where the washers are....anyway you can work with Chike to annotate a picture to point out where the washers are?
Thanks.
Hey, good seeing you again at Ripken! Keep at the autocrossing, your times will come down! :D
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

Bill, I have pointed arrows showing that the washers go between the mounting bracket that you need to hack up and the top of the mount(the side with 2 studs) The washers go around the 2 studs and the mounts should bolt onto the bracket. It is fairly simple once u understand what needs to be ground down on the bracket. I really wish I remember to show you in person. Maybe next time. Thnx for all of the advice at ripken u helped me alot

Tom

[Chiketkd]

Tom,
Did Chike take one that was actually in focus? :rolleyes: :D
I can't tell from the photo where the washers are....anyway you can work with Chike to annotate a picture to point out where the washers are?
Thanks.
Hey, good seeing you again at Ripken! Keep at the autocrossing, your times will come down! :D
-Bill
I wish Bill. It was too early and I was still waking up... :rolleyes:

-Chike

[Subafreak]

I dunno man, I didn't have to grind the sides of the mount at all to make them fit. :confused:

[SVXRide]

Jesse,
Does this mean you're willing to take some digital pics of your motor mounts?
(Please!)
-Bill

[Subafreak]

Jesse,
Does this mean you're willing to take some digital pics of your motor mounts?
(Please!)
-Bill



I would be glad to if the freaking network would accept my pics. :mad:

[SVXRide]

I would be glad to if the freaking network would accept my pics. :mad:

Jesse,
email them to me at wiiliam.e.cutlip@nasa.gov
I'll make sure they get posted :D
-Bill

[TomsSVX]

Maybe I said it wrong. I ground down the sides of the mounting bracket not the mount :)

Tom

[Beav]

Jesse, I had used washers to shim up my old failing mounts before I bought a used set from Tom. Nothing wrong with that approach. Later I slid (pinched?) in a couple shock biscuits (from a Merc, go figure) alongside the center stud in the trans mount. It helped quite a bit with the driveline slop and actually also removed quite a bit of the jitteriness I've been associating with weak front struts. Also noted was the change in vibration at high speed. I've been chasing little vibrations in the car since I bought it, tires, wheels, etc. The p.o. had a new driveshaft installed just before I bought it so I had little reason to suspect it. Now I'm thinking that with the ridiculous angle of the engine/trans (to allow for the front diff and exhaust) a sagging trans mount only adds to the trans output inclination. It sucks that I'll have to pull the exhaust and shields to inspect and measure angles but I think I'm on the right track.

Considering how much torque deflection there is in the trans mount what do you think about adapting a Moog type dogbone replacement strut (like the Citation, etc. used) in place of the OE dogbone, once the driveline angle issue is resolved? It should certainly firm up the reaction both on and off power.