Oil Leakuesti

[slacker]

Discovered I'd lost nearly two quarts of oil driving back from Chicago (1.4K miles), no lights came on and it ran good. Id've since replaced the filter and oil, switching to a full synthetic (Shell Rotella 5W40).

Got under it and found a long term accumulation of oil and dirt residue on the engine cross member below where the engine and transmission connect (and fresh oil dripping).

Question # 1: Would this be from a rear main seal ?

Also found an oil leak on the top of the Bell Housing, it smokes (when stopped) and the fumes are drawn into the heater/air conditoner system. Haven't located the source yet.

Question #2: Is there a particular place or hose to look for/at ?

Question #3: Could the #2 leak be running down and causing the problem identified in # 1 ?

Lastly, the dip stick raises up about an inch when dirven, at first I thought I'd forgot to push it down all the way. It's not blowing oil out the dip stick tube, but the dip stick seem loose when fully inserted.

Question # 4: Is there a problem with the O-Ring deteriorating on the dip stick?

Lou
Pipe Creek, TX

[SVX-FF]

**Question # 1: Would this be from a rear main seal ?

If synthetic was used and the car sat, I have hear of the rear seal drying up and leaking.

**Also found an oil leak on the top of the Bell Housing, it smokes (when stopped) and the fumes are drawn into the heater/air conditoner system. Haven't located the source yet.

**Question #2: Is there a particular place or hose to look for/at ?

Check tranny cooling lines under the brake booster area. I had a nasty leak there. I now have a "powerglide" for a tranny. The clamps and soft hoses leaked.

**Question #3: Could the #2 leak be running down and causing the problem identified in # 1 ?

Maybe, clean off engine really good with and engine degreaser, and then run the engine and look for new oil spots.

**Lastly, the dip stick raises up about an inch when dirven, at first I thought I'd forgot to push it down all the way. It's not blowing oil out the dip stick tube, but the dip stick seem loose when fully inserted.

**Question # 4: Is there a problem with the O-Ring deteriorating on the dip stick?

The PVC needs replacing. you need a 19mm crows foot. It is under the center cover.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/14302.pdf

Good luck

[slacker]

The vehicle was being driven daily by the seller, said he put 5K on it after getting it from an auction. I checked all fliuids and belts, including the oil when picking it up, it had been changed (non Synthetic) and a new filter, and was to the full mark.

Didn't think to check the level when refueling on the trip back from Chicago (-5 F) and it ran great. I did detect a strange odor, and thought perhaps it was sometning he'd had in the vehicle.

Was only when back I found nothing on the dip stick, and slowly added two quarts to obtain a reading. Put it on some Rhino ramps and got under and found the long term accumulation mentioned, pluslus noticed the leak on the top.

Contacted the seller, he claimed he'd had no problems, I fiind this difficult if not impossible to believe.. Leaks like that (underneath) don't just spring-up.

I warmed the engine and fully drained the oil, changed the filter and put in the full synthetic 5W4 and new filter..

Will check the hoses you mentioned for the top leak.

A visit to car wash is scheduled for this weekend to get underneath with the high pressure washer (and have my son along in my 87 GL to drive the SVX home cause I'll be pretty wet and filfthy).

[slacker]

Didn't scroll all the way down, really appreciate the pdf on the PVC replacement.

Probably never ever would have found it without your data.

PVC's in general aren't the easiest to change, this one appears to be a 10 on a scale of 1~10 in difficulty.

I'll be sure to get real mellow before I begin, or con my son (nimble finers) into doing it.

This brings up the question, what are the good books (solely on the SVX) both mechanical and electrical?

Thanks.

Lou

[Ron Mummert]

[
PVC's in general aren't the easiest to change, this one appears to be a 10 on a scale of 1~10 in difficulty.



There are gobs of posts in here about changing the PVC. Do a search. I paid a non-Subaru "does-it-all" mechanic to change mine. T'was about 25 bucks, & got to keep clean fingernails. The dipstick "O" ring should also be replaced.


Ron.

[slacker]

Thanks Ron, you have a good point regarding paying someone to change the PCV.

Think I could get it out, it's getting the new one in and starting to thread, WITHOUT dropping it down and trying to fish it out.

On my 87 GL, getting the hose off the valve is the hardest part.

I may just participate in trickle down economics.

Lou

[Ding N' Prayer]

Thanks for the pcv tip SVX_FF! I've been noticing my dipstick up also and I thought "UH-oh, ring blow-by?" but the valve makes sense. If it was really clogged that would explain the high consumption SLACKER had. OR, it may mean that the front oil seal is going or as on my '92 I needed a new oil pump (at 154k).