Oil change/other fluid change questions.

[StaceyVX]

So, I have had my car since last April and since then I've had one oil change (one was done right before I got it). It's time for another one, but someone told me that I should change the trans. fluid as well. Is this true? And how much does that cost? Anything else I should have changed along with those? Thanks. :)

[nextcubepro]

When was it last changed? If you have no idea, have a simple drain and fill performed at PepBoys or $40 w/tax. Do it every 10k miles. Ask them to check your differential fluids as well, another cheap fluid change.

P.S. - You need to change your oil at least every 3,000 miles or 3 months, synthetic or not. Period. If you don't, your engine will slowly wear down. And when it does, it's a $6,000 rebuild. Ouch.

[StaceyVX]

Yea, it was last changed in October. My boyfriend works at Pep Boys...So an oil and trans fluid change there is $40? And should I have them just check the differential fluids or just flat out change them?

I know to change the oil every 3k or 3 months, it's the trans. thing I don't know about. Thanks, though.

[nextcubepro]

hmm...

[StaceyVX]

:confused:

[nextcubepro]

Originally posted by StaceyVX
:confused:

lol sorry...I got a lil confused there...

So since I still am (slightly), here's what I do: oil change every 3k miles, tranny fluid change every 3 oil changes (9k miles). If you weren't sure of the last interval, change it anyways...no harm done in keeping clean fluids running through your baby ;)

[StaceyVX]

Thanks and sorry for any confusion...I don't know the last time the other fluids were changed...Just the oil. So now I can track it. Do it this month and then 3 oil changes from now. Thanks.

[nextcubepro]

Originally posted by StaceyVX
Thanks and sorry for any confusion...I don't know the last time the other fluids were changed...Just the oil. So now I can track it. Do it this month and then 3 oil changes from now. Thanks.

There ya go...good luck with your SVX!

[Landshark]

the 3000 mile/3 month oil change interval is debateable, and i think its a bit of overkill. i use synthetic and change every 5000 miles, which is still conservative. new Porsches (and other manufacturers) have a factory specified interval of 15,000 miles, but i'd be a little nervous waiting that long.

i forget how i changed the front diff (had a glasses of hootch last night), but on the rear, make sure to remove the upper 'fill' plug first - if you remove the drain plug and then the fill plug is not able to be removed you'll be screwed....... fill with gear oil up to the fill hole and that's it. i used Mobil1 synthetic gear oil.

for the tranny, drain it (note how much fluid comes out), and fill with same amount. not all will come out - maybe 5-6 quarts. repeat this whenever you change the engine oil until you feel satisfied that there is mostly new tranny fluid in there. :)

[Wiz]

Originally posted by Landshark
the 3000 mile/3 month oil change interval is debateable, and i think its a bit of overkill. i use synthetic and change every 5000 miles, which is still conservative. new Porsches (and other manufacturers) have a factory specified interval of 15,000 miles, but i'd be a little nervous waiting that long.

i forget how i changed the front diff (had a glasses of hootch last night), but on the rear, make sure to remove the upper 'fill' plug first - if you remove the drain plug and then the fill plug is not able to be removed you'll be screwed....... fill with gear oil up to the fill hole and that's it. i used Mobil1 synthetic gear oil.

for the tranny, drain it (note how much fluid comes out), and fill with same amount. not all will come out - maybe 5-6 quarts. repeat this whenever you change the engine oil until you feel satisfied that there is mostly new tranny fluid in there. :)
I do 5000 as well with synthetic. One thing I noticed how ever was in my SVX manual it called for 7500 miles and I assume it ment with normal oil. Whats that all about? Manual says 7500, dealer says 3750 with normal oil and 5000 with synthetic.

Oh and the manual also says change the tranny fluid every 15k under extreme conditions (lots of stop and go traffic) which is what I'm going to go by.

[nextcubepro]

Originally posted by Landshark
the 3000 mile/3 month oil change interval is debateable, and i think its a bit of overkill. i use synthetic and change every 5000 miles, which is still conservative. new Porsches (and other manufacturers) have a factory specified interval of 15,000 miles, but i'd be a little nervous waiting that long.

i forget how i changed the front diff (had a glasses of hootch last night), but on the rear, make sure to remove the upper 'fill' plug first - if you remove the drain plug and then the fill plug is not able to be removed you'll be screwed....... fill with gear oil up to the fill hole and that's it. i used Mobil1 synthetic gear oil.

for the tranny, drain it (note how much fluid comes out), and fill with same amount. not all will come out - maybe 5-6 quarts. repeat this whenever you change the engine oil until you feel satisfied that there is mostly new tranny fluid in there. :)

Uncle's 01 Audi A6 4.2 says change oil every 10k miles. He has 60k miles on it. He has always had it changed at the dealer. He drives very conservatively. His engine is already leaking oil.

In a recent review of some 911, the mag said that even tho porsche said the interval was every 15k miles, at 9k the oil looked toasted.

Just do it every 3k miles. What can it hurt?

P.S. - Father told me that someone told him switching from normal to syntec oil unless your car is new can be bad for your engine. Anyone have any info or experiences with this?

[CDG]

Its good to hear you have a BF who works at Pep Boys.
Keep him around;)
Engine Oil:
Like many have said, 5000, 3000. A good rule is 5000 for Syn, and 3000 for normal. Don't put in the $1.35 per quart stuff, use the good stuff, or better yet start using a good synthetic.
Transmission Fluid:
Like they have said, drain from the pan, 5-6 qts is about right. check it before you drain it, check it after you refill it. needs to be checked the way the manual tels you, there are options, check it the same way both times.
Center Diff:
This is part of the trany, and has a different location and dipstick, check the fluid on the dipstick, if its dirty, change it all according to the manual.
Rear Diff:
As directed above, follow the proceedure and change it at the same time you do the cebter diff. How often? How about every 15-30k.
Power Steering Fluid:
This should be changed once in a while, but if its not leaking, and its still red, then best not touch it.
Brake Fluid:
Should be change once every 2 years or every full brake job(front and rear pads) If you go thru 2 fronts to 1 rear, change every time you do rears, or 2 years.
Antifreeze Coolant:
Do it same as above, every 2 years.

Above are all general guidelines for most cars. SVX isn't much different, but SVX like the trany fluid changed as per above, other cars will let you slide on that one.

[Shadow248]

Originally posted by Landshark
the 3000 mile/3 month oil change interval is debateable, and i think its a bit of overkill. i use synthetic and change every 5000 miles, which is still conservative. new Porsches (and other manufacturers) have a factory specified interval of 15,000 miles, but i'd be a little nervous waiting that long.

Well Landshark, I am glad to see there is something we agree on. The 3000 mile oil change was created (like so many other car myths out there) by the people who profit from it. It is a total waste to change your oil that often. My recommendation is every 5000 miles. If you use full synthetic, you could really go more like 7500 safely...but if you want to be "over-protective", go with 5000. Realistically you should be able to go 15,000 miles with full synthetic oil before it begins to have ANY adverse effect on your engine, but i sure don't recommend doing that.

[Landshark]

Originally posted by Shadow248


Well Landshark, I am glad to see there is something we agree on. The 3000 mile oil change was created (like so many other car myths out there) by the people who profit from it. It is a total waste to change your oil that often. My recommendation is every 5000 miles. If you use full synthetic, you could really go more like 7500 safely...but if you want to be "over-protective", go with 5000. Realistically you should be able to go 15,000 miles with full synthetic oil before it begins to have ANY adverse effect on your engine, but i sure don't recommend doing that.

there's that point where paranoia overrides manufacturers specs. :) i do it at 5k (synthetic), because i do a lot of city driving. 3 mo/3k is ridiculous, but i've seen some wackos on car forums change every TWO THOUSAND miles! "relax, pal. have a drink."

[StaceyVX]

Ok, here's the update. I got the oil changed. When he told them to change the trans. fluid, the service manager told him that I shouldn't because draining would clean out what's called a "dirt seal". He said that around the seals and gaskets that the antifreeze circulates around has dirt helping to prevent leaks in there, and that changing the fluid would cause the new fluid's detergent to eat away at it and cause leaks. :confused:

As for the differential fluid, he forgot. Is this a big deal?

What do you guys have to say about this?

[CDG]

Mr. PepBoy has a very small point, however as far as I know there are no Antifreeze journals running anywhere near the transmission, other than the trany line running through the rad itself, where there are no seals.
His reluctance to change the fluid is a common one. His reasoning is somewhat flawed.
another fyi, Transmission fluid has one of the highest detergent levels of any auto fluid, therefore the dirt seal excuse is a little weak, but history shows that if it has never been changed, and you replace it all, problems have been known to arise.

The SVX trany is more prone to failure if you do not do regular changes.

You may need to take the car to a trany shop and ask them to do it right, or their assessment.

[nextcubepro]

Originally posted by StaceyVX
Ok, here's the update. I got the oil changed. When he told them to change the trans. fluid, the service manager told him that I shouldn't because draining would clean out what's called a "dirt seal". He said that around the seals and gaskets that the antifreeze circulates around has dirt helping to prevent leaks in there, and that changing the fluid would cause the new fluid's detergent to eat away at it and cause leaks. :confused:

As for the differential fluid, he forgot. Is this a big deal?

What do you guys have to say about this?

Change the tranny fluid, but ONLY do a drain and fill, not a flush, so the "good" dirt built up in the tranny doesn't dislodge itself, possibly causing leaks/clogs. My friends ex-SVX got a flush, as recommended, and a week later the tranny was not shifting correctly, and the TC didn't lock up properly. I have my tranny fluid drained and filled every 9k miles (every 3 oil changes), and (knock wood), original tranny shifts great.

It's a 92, so does it have the little external filter add on? (Just look near you battery cage and lower, right next to the engine. It's round. You'd be able to tell ;)

P.S. - Do you ever have to change the external tranny filter or the one on the radiator?

[Landshark]

Originally posted by nextcubepro
Do you ever have to change the external tranny filter or the one on the radiator?

i don't know the exact change interval for the factory external filter, but it does need changed. it would probably be cheaper (and allow easier changes) to remove it and get the larger Perma-cool external filter which uses the less expensive filters you can buy at any auto parts store.

the 'filter' in the radiator transmission cooler is a small internal screen that is not replaceable, or even accessible. when it clogs, good-bye transmission. the later model SVX's deleted this. if you plan on keeping your transmission for a long time, i would bypass the factory transmission cooler and get an aftermarket one.

[nextcubepro]

Originally posted by Landshark


i don't know the exact change interval for the factory external filter, but it does need changed. it would probably be cheaper (and allow easier changes) to remove it and get the larger Perma-cool external filter which uses the less expensive filters you can buy at any auto parts store.

the 'filter' in the radiator transmission cooler is a small internal screen that is not replaceable, or even accessible. when it clogs, good-bye transmission. the later model SVX's deleted this. if you plan on keeping your transmission for a long time, i would bypass the factory transmission cooler and get an aftermarket one.

Subaru quoted me $24 for the entire external filter "kit", as if the filter wasn't sold separately. Is it a user changeable part? Can It be done by, say, Pep Boys while they change the oil filter? Is it as easy to change as the oil filter?

[Landshark]

Originally posted by nextcubepro


Subaru quoted me $24 for the entire external filter "kit", as if the filter wasn't sold separately. Is it a user changeable part? Can It be done by, say, Pep Boys while they change the oil filter? Is it as easy to change as the oil filter?

Pep Boys? are you mad at your car?

i don't have the factory external filter, so i can't really answer your questions, but the Perma-cool external filter uses a regular old oil filter, so it IS as easy to change as an oil filter. :)

[nextcubepro]

Originally posted by Landshark


Pep Boys? are you mad at your car?

No, just use them of oil changes occasionally :)

[svxsubaru1]

I change my oil every 5000-6500 miles using sythenic, but you have to rember to still change your oil filter about every 3000 miles. Oil degrading is not the only reason to change your oil.

Is there any other good oil filter that you recomend that is cheaper than the subaru $10 oil filter.

[CDG]

Lucky me, John gave me about 28 oil filters with the car, I don't see ever needing that many.

[James Scott]

I use Redline synthetic lubricants. All synthetics, I've been told, are more detergent and therefore may clean debri from gaskets and cause leaks. I don't know why "he" said not to change ATF (assuming he was going to add more Dexron)?

1) I use Redline 10/30 synthetic for oil changes (don't always remember to change at just the right mileage - synthetic [esp. Redline] more security)
2) I use Redline 75/90 synthetic both differentials - only takes one to 1 1/2 quarts each diff
3) I use Redline D4 ATF synthetic in the auto trans - you can remove all trans fluid and replace with new while SVX is running to replace "all" trans fluid with a special machine many shops have. [The dealer charged $180. The local Shell Lube charged $89 for the same thing. Both replaced with (included) Dexron (stock fluid)]

Depending on your mileage and your previous owners service history, I would replace all (AT, diffs) with either oil or synthetic.
Not that much money for some piece of mind!

Nothing like a bunch of different opinions!!! All the above is good advice. Pick one and do it!

HAVE FUN! :D

[nextcubepro]

Originally posted by James Scott
I use Redline synthetic lubricants. All synthetics, I've been told, are more detergent and therefore may clean debri from gaskets and cause leaks. I don't know why "he" said not to change ATF (assuming he was going to add more Dexron)?

1) I use Redline 10/30 synthetic for oil changes (don't always remember to change at just the right mileage - synthetic [esp. Redline] more security)
2) I use Redline 75/90 synthetic both differentials - only takes one to 1 1/2 quarts each diff
3) I use Redline D4 ATF synthetic in the auto trans - you can remove all trans fluid and replace with new while SVX is running to replace "all" trans fluid with a special machine many shops have. [The dealer charged $180. The local Shell Lube charged $89 for the same thing. Both replaced with (included) Dexron (stock fluid)]

Depending on your mileage and your previous owners service history, I would replace all (AT, diffs) with either oil or synthetic.
Not that much money for some piece of mind!

Nothing like a bunch of different opinions!!! All the above is good advice. Pick one and do it!

HAVE FUN! :D

You mean let it drain WHILE the SVX is running? Wouldn't that hurt the pump?

[Reaper450128]

Originally posted by nextcubepro


You mean let it drain WHILE the SVX is running? Wouldn't that hurt the pump?

Under normal circumstances, yes, but in the is case the trans cooler is disconnected and the lines are hooked up to a special machine. The input line to the cooler drains the old fluid into the machine, while the machine pumps new fluid in from the return line simultaneously at the same rate its draining. This way there is always a full amount of fluid in the transmission, its just being changed over to a clean supply as it gets pumped through.

[nextcubepro]

Originally posted by Reaper450128


Under normal circumstances, yes, but in the is case the trans cooler is disconnected and the lines are hooked up to a special machine. The input line to the cooler drains the old fluid into the machine, while the machine pumps new fluid in from the return line simultaneously at the same rate its draining. This way there is always a full amount of fluid in the transmission, its just being changed over to a clean supply as it gets pumped through.

hmm...I still don't like it. What about the good dirt in the tranny? What if it gets only partially dislodged, and you're driving, and the dirt that loosened from that procedure clogs the mesh filter in the radiator. I could see future problems with that method unless it is performed regularly and since the car was new.

I think i'll stick to the drain and fill. Never caused me any problems, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[Reaper450128]

Originally posted by nextcubepro


hmm...I still don't like it. What about the good dirt in the tranny? What if it gets only partially dislodged, and you're driving, and the dirt that loosened from that procedure clogs the mesh filter in the radiator. I could see future problems with that method unless it is performed regularly and since the car was new.

I think i'll stick to the drain and fill. Never caused me any problems, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I've never believed in the whole "good dirt" idea. I believe if dirt is helping to a seal to function, the seal needs replacing because its too old to function right anymore. Besides that though, if the dirt is not being dislodged in normal operation, this method shouldn't dislodge it either, as it will seem to the transmission as if it is normal operation. If it breaks loose during this procedure, it probably would have soon anyway, and at least this way it gets sucked out with the old fluid instead of recirculated to all the little nooks and crannies it might get clogged in where it would no longer be "good dirt".

[SubaSteevo]

Originally posted by nextcubepro


Subaru quoted me $24 for the entire external filter "kit", as if the filter wasn't sold separately. Is it a user changeable part? Can It be done by, say, Pep Boys while they change the oil filter? Is it as easy to change as the oil filter?

The filter is sold seperately and costs about $40. If you go to subaruparts.com you can order the "kit" for the legacy (search for the part #) for $9.95+s/h. The legacy kit is the exact same filter but comes with a different bracket and hoses. I'd say its easier to change than the oil filter, provided they don't let all the fluid leak out. You just disconnect two hoses and put them on the new filter. The aftermarket oil filter type addons such as the Perma-cool have less filtering ability than the stock filter (there was a discussion on the size of the particles each filters out).

[SubaSteevo]

Reaper, just realized you're like 10 mins away. We should meet up sometime.

[StaceyVX]

Wow, this is all too much. So I drain and fill the trans and also the differential fluids? How often do you do the diff.? This kinda stuff intimidates me. I would have never thought of something like the differential fluid...It makes me wonder what else am I supposed to be doing that I'm not? :confused:

[Reaper450128]

This is what I would recommend, just based on what I've seen:

Oil: As stated in this thread, 3000 miles for regular, 5000 for synthetic.
Transmission: Check it often, do a standard drain and refill every 10000 miles or anytime it starts to look or smell burnt. The full fluid exchange we discussed in the previous few posts is a more extreme change that shouldn't have to be done often as long as you keep up on the regular changes.
Differentials: Check them when you change the transmission fluid, if they are low, top them off. The fluid in the rear will wear out with time, if you start to notice some binding (or just roughness) when turning, change it. The front diff fluid shouldn't really break down that fast, as its only acting as a gear lubricant in a (relatively) unstressed component instead of a torque transmission component like that in the rear diff. I changed my rear a little while after I got mine simply because I didn't know when it was (or if) last done, and I noticed a big change in how smooth the turns felt.

Not to make things more complicated, but you shouldn't forget other important fluids like the brake fluid either. Check the level whenever you've got the hood open, its just a matter of looking at the reservoir, and if it starts to look nasty brown, you might consider having it changed. Its a longer procedure that requires getting the car completely off the ground for probably an hour or so, but given the importance of its job, personally I don't mind the hassle. Just make sure if you do it yourself, bleed the breaks in the right order, I know it can be found somewhere on the boards here, or in a service manual. Coolant is another thing that should be changed periodically, usually once every year or two.

[James Scott]

Stacey: Don't fret! The degree to which you want to service your SVX depends to a large degree on how much you like your car and how long you want to keep it! The basic care is simple. We here on this website tend to be fanatics >> We probably love our cars too much! Therefore, the care you read here will tend toward extreme or at least some unecessary suggestions!

Basic Things I remember we're supposed to do:

1) SVX weaknesses that tend to fail early:
Rear axle bearings >> replace
Brake rotors tend to warp >> turn or replace
Transmission, auto >> If you're getting slipping when
shifting gears, install Smallcar.com SVX shift kit (maybe even if
you're not, since this helps prevent early wear of auto
trans!) >> rebuild or replace with AT rebuild or 5-Speed
trans

2) 60,000 Mile :
Spark plugs >> replace
Timing belt >> replace (also, water pump if indicated,
since in the same area/expensive labor TB)

3) Add Trans cooler if in warm area or want additional
Trans
wear protection

4) Better braking can be had with Stainless brakelines,
cross-
drilled/slotted rotors, and aftermarket brake pads

5) Good tires help with tire noise and driveability. I use
Yokohama AVS db on stock rims. If you change to larger
diameter rims, your ride will be more responsive (on lower
profile tires)

6) Etc. . . . Etc....... Etc.......

HAVE FUN! ;)