SVX Sound System

[jrollins]

Ok guys... I'm fairly big on car audio, and when I go the SVX, I wasn't that surprised to find that the front components were not to bad (just lacking power). But the 6x9's in the rear just blow.

So my point to all of this is, I need as much info. as you guys can give me on upgrading in this car. I know a little of what's going on, but need a place to start.

I plan on documenting the entire proccess, as it will be a complete re-install (fronts, rears, H/U, subs).

It's going to take some time and work, but in the end, it will make a world of difference.



Thanks,


John

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by jrollins
Ok guys... I'm fairly big on car audio, and when I go the SVX, I wasn't that surprised to find that the front components were not to bad (just lacking power). But the 6x9's in the rear just blow.

So my point to all of this is, I need as much info. as you guys can give me on upgrading in this car. I know a little of what's going on, but need a place to start.

I plan on documenting the entire proccess, as it will be a complete re-install (fronts, rears, H/U, subs).

It's going to take some time and work, but in the end, it will make a world of difference.



Thanks,


John

John, you're in for a lot of fun (he says fecesiously). The fronts aren't too bad, except for the fact that the speakers are actually welded to the brackets. Most of us have found that you can drill out the welds (with a small drill bit) and the screws for the replacements will fit in the holes you've drilled. If you happen to bugger one of the holes up, by not completely drilling out the welds, then, you can just use the supplied screw clips on that portion. Others have used the existing bracket to make a template from either metal, or plywood. The trick is to make sure your speakers are not too deep and interfere with the window mechanism. I've replaced both front and rear with Sony Xplod 3-ways. Not because I didn't like the stock system, but out of necessity when the left front door speaker blew. It was a lot cheaper to go with the Xplods than to re-fit with stock.

Now, the rears are another story. Don't start trying to figure out how to remove the rear grilles, lest you break them. The rear deck shelf has to come completely off!. That involves loosening the side trim on both sides of the rear compartment (yes, the whole thing with armrests. Behind that trim (someone has pics in their locker), there are two screws that release the shelf. Then, there are the speakers themselves. Make sure you have a right angle screwdriver (I couldn't find mine, so I clamped a screwdriver bit into a pair of small vice grips-- worked fine). There is one screw, under the rear windshield that is a b**ch to get to. Then, when you go to replace the rear deck, make sure you don't hand any vinyl with the metal clips that fit into the area under the rear windshield.

So, there's a brief overview (okay, maybe not so brief). But, I think anyone here, who's done it, would agree that it aint no joy ride. Oh, and make sure you pick a nice cool day to do this. I changed my rears in 97 degree heat. Having this 185 pound fatboy crammed into the rear of an SVX on a day like that, was absolutely no fun. Good luck.

[nvrmore100]

Well I went through the trouble of adding the headunit and subs to my car. However I'm fairly happy with my stock speakers (my 6x9's sound really good actually...not sure about yours). I personally find the front's are much worse in my case. Maybe we are looking for different things. I personally look at speakers for fidelity. I don't care if my speakers won't make a single decible of bass, however I want them to go loud enough to make me deaf without crapping out. That is why I buy subs, just to have the provide bass fill.

I went with a Kenwood Mp3 player. I must admit, I have never been happier with my headunit. Mp3's in the car is awesome.

The sub install is exactly the same as any other sub install. Just run the wires and voila. I have some pics of mine on my site, if you want to check them out.

http://www.ryanmacdonald.com under Sunfire/SVX

Later,
Ryan

[jrollins]

Thanks for the insight guys.... I new from what I have read, that this wasn't going to be a picnic. I just didn't want to go into it blind.

I'm probably in a world of **** as far as putting my new fronts in. I bought them awhile back (before the SVX came along). They're Diamond Audio's Hex's... Fairly deep... not sure how to make it work, but I'll work something out! :)


I want to get it right the first time. I know all about installing stereo stuff just to have it in and then redoing it a couple weeks down the road. I'll try to keep up with things and let you know how it goes.

I saw a diagram on wiring the headunit somewhere.... Any clue as to where I could get this?


Thanks,

John

[Szalkerous]

I bought my SVX not only because it was an amazing car, but because it has incredible accoustic dynamics, and was very suitable to compete with.

If you are incredibly serious about this, then I suggest you follow the following in this order:

1. Upgrade interior speakers first. Why do this first? Because it's a pain in the arse, and better to get out of the way.

The stock tweeters on the dash are an easy replace, the tweeter grills pop out with little effort. I reused my grills with my aftermarket 1"ers. After these are replaced you need to do nothing further with them. The 6.5" door speakers are a pain. The stock metal housing was not to my liking, as I want to avoid metallic distortion, so I created my own templates out of fiberglass. This is entirely up to you. You can use the metal already there, build your own, or go to radioshack. You will want to Dynamat the doors when you install the speakers. If you do not, your soundplane will be distorted. Also, if you're confused about getting the interior door panel off, it's simple:

Open the door. Near the door hinge you will see exposed screw(s) holding that part of the panel on. Remove them. Under the door "handle" (inside the car) there is a plastic piece of trim which pops off to reveal another screw. Remove that. Now the panel has clips alone the bottom edge. Pull the panel off slowly, detaching these clips one by one. After they are removed, you will have to pull the panel up off the sill. Bear in mind there are window and lock wires still connected to that interior panel. They have little disconnects. Now you can access your workspace.

The rear 6x9's are an awkward space to work in. you will have to pull your interior apart in many places to remove them. The whole back dash pulls up as one panel, grills included. It is not screwed down as far as I know, it has plastic clips. If you break one of these clips, VIP Autoparts or Autozone will have replacements. Dealer parts are too expensive. Remove the upper panel in the trunk to get access to the botton of the rear dash. You may also have to remove the interior panels under the rear windows as well, or bend them out of your way (but this risks breaking them.)

When you go to install new speakers, I suggest you mount them from the bottom. Most aftermarket 6x9's have a rasied tweeter in the center which causes clearance problems with the stock grill.
It is a good idea to do this with two people. Remember to dynamat the metal deck. Also, you may want to unscrew some of the variouos components mounted to the bottom of the deck, in the trunk. They rattle easily. Dynamat and reinstall them all.

2. Stereo unit: There are existing directions on how to replace the stock unit. Check the links section.

When you select a new unit, bear in mind that door trim which covers the stereo. I had to remove mine because my aftermarket unit has a revloving faceplate which didn't clear that door when it was closed. I had a custom interior shop take care of the cosmetics afterwards.

Also, if you can't get your until to line up to screw in, drill holes in the metal shell which houses the stereo units.

3. Subs/Bass/Amps: The trunk of the SVX is small. I won't go into the details of the days it took me of customizing, wiring, and redecorating the trunk area. But bear in mind you have a very limited space to work with. If you think you're going to stuff 15" subs in there, good luck. I don't think it possible really. 12" subs are about all you'll get in there. I got 4 in, with two amps. It IS possible. Also bear in mind this: If you're going to push a lot of power, I suggest upgrading the alternator. It doesn't output enough for a stock SVX, let alone one equipped with an aftermarket system. It will slowly drain your battery to nothingness. Phoenix Gold manufactures a good aftermarket alternator.

And that's about all I will say for now. At some point I will write a detailed article regarding this all. I have a roll of pictures somwhere with the details of my own install. I should develop them. If you need any more description, email me at Szalkerous@yahoo.com

Disclaimer: This is all based on my own experience with my own SVX, which happens to be a 94. You car may differ!! If you are unsure about anything in this article, or have absolutely no clue about electronics or audio, BRING YOUR CAR TO A PROFESSIONAL AUDIO SHOP. It's worth the install fee if you're going to risk breaking parts of your car. Subaru SVX interior parts are VERY VERY expensive to replace.

[nvrmore100]

Wow they managed to get 4 12's in your car? Are they facing upwards? It was a stuggle with a box for me to get my 10's in there facing forward.

Ryan

[Szalkerous]

"they"? More like "me and a few friends to help me where I needed two hands"

One thing about my IASCA car: I did all the work myself.

Two subs are in a custom box behind the rear seats, two are in custom moldings on each side. Amps in the middle. Lots of fiberglass and frustration. :D

Oh, did I mention I have no trunk anymore? LOL! Can't take this car shopping, that's for sure. But at least I have enough audio power to drown out anyone else who wants to pull up next to me at a stop light, and enough mechanical power to blow their doors off when it turns green! :D :D :D

[nvrmore100]

Originally posted by Szalkerous
Disclaimer: This is all based on my own experience with my own SVX, which happens to be a 94. You car may differ!! If you are unsure about anything in this article, or have absolutely no clue about electronics or audio, BRING YOUR CAR TO A PROFESSIONAL AUDIO SHOP. It's worth the install fee if you're going to risk breaking parts of your car. Subaru SVX interior parts are VERY VERY expensive to replace.

Oh sorry, I read this statement as you took it in. I'm just suprised you managed to get 2 12's standing upwards with it still fitting under the top section of the trunk. Mind you I did have mine pushed far enough forward that I have a good 5 grocery bag space in there still. :D

Ryan

[SVXtc]

So the speakers in the front are 6.5" and not 5x7's?

[Aredubjay]

<<The whole back dash pulls up as one panel, grills included. It is not screwed down as far as I know, it has plastic clips. >>

It SHOULD have been screwed down. If you look at the rear deck, there should have been screws in the "period" positions in the "abstract" diagram below. (a couple of small L bracket):

.-----------.

I have the wiring diagram for the radio, John. E-mail me at trspit80@aol.com and I'll attach it and send it back.

[Szalkerous]

Well I don't remember mine being screwed down, mind you this was a year ago when I did my back deck. It may have been, and again, it may have not. These are the things to look out for.

And the 12's are at a slight angle. There's no way two 12's would fit straight up in a box in that small enclosure.

I'm off for the night.

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by Szalkerous
Well I don't remember mine being screwed down, mind you this was a year ago when I did my back deck. It may have been, and again, it may have not. These are the things to look out for.

And the 12's are at a slight angle. There's no way two 12's would fit straight up in a box in that small enclosure.

I'm off for the night.

The only reason I remember is because I was cussin' them the whole time (I was hot and tired and sweating) :D. Someone here has a pic of their position in their personal locker. I can't remember who.

[cocacola08]

The 6x9's were enough of a b**ch for me, I'm not in any hurry to do the front, but it suck cuz all the sound is behind me, and getts annoying most of the time. The pain in the Arse factor added to the I-can't-afford-the-components-I-want-factor. has prevented me from doing that part

[BRamprasad84]

Gentlemen...

Quick question, want to see if anyone has any possible solutions because to be honest, I am scared to take the car back to a stereo shop to get this looked at.

Ok, here is the deal. I have a double din Alpine In dash changer with Infinity Kappa 6.5 components and 3-way 6x9" speakers. Powering them is a Alpine v12 Amp. Anyway, I went through such a HUGE ordeal in getting this stuff all installed (3 shops said they could not do it or my personal favorite answer, It cant be done). Anyway, for a while now I have been having periodic problems. Sometimes the head unit will just shut itself off or not turn on, then randomly come back and work fine. Sometimes when I am listening it will shut off and not work for days but usually it just turns itself right back on. Another newer problem is that the whole stereo seems to lose power randomly. For instance I will put on a turn signal and the stereo will sound as if it is losing reception and start to fade out. The equalizer on my head unit display will quit as well.

Do you think both of these are power issues? I can give more details if anyone needs them.

Everytime I encounter either of these problems I swear I am going to take the thing to be looked at but then everything will be back to normal and I just keep putting it off. I just do not feel like showing the car to someone who is not familiar with the SVX because I am not sure that the person who did my install 2 years ago is still there.

PLEASE HELP!!!

oh, and thanks to anyone who takes the time to look at all this nonsense i have typed.

BHARAT.

[nvrmore100]

Well this was my problem. The stupid bracket thing that holds your head unit grounds out. I found if I even moved my headunit a milimeter upwards...off it went. At first it got me all freaked out, because it was grounding in such a way that my speakers would cut out, but my headunit would stay on. I was worried I managed to fry my new stereo somehow.

The solution was to insulate the whole thing at the back side. What was actually touching was frame on the top of the bracket, and the fins on the amp's headunit. Once they were all covered, no problems.

Ryan

[cdigerlando]

Great detail!!! Thanks. I may be putting new speaker in as well and was very interested in the dynomat. Does this go on the surface of where the speaker mounts, or behind the surface mounted? Also I was thinking of going with Infinity Kappas. Anyone had any experience with these?

[SVXtc]

If you like the Kappas, check out Eclipse speakers. They're about the same, but offer a little more bass.

[BRamprasad84]

Originally posted by cdigerlando
Great detail!!! Thanks. I may be putting new speaker in as well and was very interested in the dynomat. Does this go on the surface of where the speaker mounts, or behind the surface mounted? Also I was thinking of going with Infinity Kappas. Anyone had any experience with these?

I have Kappa's in my car. Both the components I have up front and the rear deck speakers are pretty good. I had to really play with the equalizer settings on the head unit though to get the full potential out of the speakers. However, from what i have heard from other people you can get more out of other brand tweeters. Overall though, I have no complaints with the kappas. the 6x9'' speakers actually put out a lot more bass than you would expect.

hope it helps, B.

[cdigerlando]

Thanks again. Any recommeded installation for the dynomat? What surfaces should it be attached to? Sorry I'm not much of a stereo guy.

[1994SubaruSVX]

i am not much of a stereo guy either but my right front speaker blew the other day. so i replaced both my front speakers with boston acoustic speakers. are those any good??

[cdigerlando]

I went to Sound Advice and bought dynamat, and Boston Rally speakers for the front and back. They recommended against the Kappas. Said they were getting sun damaged quick. I doubt with our metalic windows that this will be a big problem.

[cdigerlando]

Anyone know how to remove the stock head unit? I have no idea what to even start on to remove it.

Thanks

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by cdigerlando
Anyone know how to remove the stock head unit? I have no idea what to even start on to remove it.

Thanks

Chuck,
Check this thread. Have a happy holiday weekend.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=957&highlight=Stereo

[cdigerlando]

Thanks so much. Please do the same.

Chuck

[SVXtc]

This may help out. http://home.earthlink.net/~hackrat/svx-sound.htmlwell.

[SVXtc]

sorry. wrong link. It's http://home.earthlink.net/~hackrat/svx-sound.html

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by SVXtc
sorry. wrong link. It's http://home.earthlink.net/~hackrat/svx-sound.html


NO! NO! DON'T GO THERE! HE TELLS YOU TO CUT THE LEADS TO YOUR ANTENNA --- DON'T DO IT!

Just kidding! Everything there is great info ecept the cutting of the antenna leads (just pull the carpet back from the tranny tunnel in the driver's footwell -- the leads are right there -- unplug 'em). I just like giving Gavin crap about the leads. Hey, Thumper -- where the hell are ya, anyway?

[cdigerlando]

I found where the driver's side front speakers split to the tweeter. Just pull off the kick plate and intercept the wire connecter just before it goes to the door. There you will see a Brown and a Green wire which have a feed that runs out into the tweeter. You will actually see two wires coming out of the connector. I did an ohm test to verify this. I think I can tap in the crossover and squeeze the crossover behind the kick plate. The passenger's side is a different story. The wires split somewhere in the dash. The good news is it is easy to feed tweeter wires through the tweeter hole and down to the kickplate. I will just abandon the old tweeter wire on that side. Turns out I did not have to pull the stereo at all, which I did anywhat. Thanks for the help. Well on with dynomating and finalizing the mounts.

[cdigerlando]

Well I finished the install on the Boston Acoustics speakers. I was able to make the tweeters fit by triming the stock covers out and slipping the new ones in. It fits great!!!! They sound fantastic on the stock system. I have the stereo upgrade package with 80 watts and the CD player. I will stick with it until it goes. Can't wait to get a rear window so I can give the WRX a rest and enjoy driving my SVX to work again, while breaking in the tranny.

[kvnobrien]

I just put in Infinity Kappas today into the front doors and tweeters. I used the stock mounting brackets but what a pain it was to drill out those spot welds. Anyway, the car sounds great, but it started to rain when installing the last tweeter so I guess I'll have to put the doors panels back on tomorrow. I used dynamat on the door around the speakers and it helped improve the sound quality. I even went over each door will my ear to see if there were any additional spots where I could prevent rattling. It seemed pretty tight to me, especially for a '92. Tweeters went in rather easily despite the short play with the wires. When I get some amps I'll redo the wiring so I'm not too concerned about it now.

Kev.
Try to post some pics if I can borrow my roommates digital camera.

I now have Sony CDX head unit with 10 disc changer, Phase Linear 6x9s in the rear(90Watt RMS), and Infinity Kappa 60.2(i think) componet system for front and tweeter.

[Shadowyng]

I spent the last year finishing my stereo install(because I'm slow and particular as hell) But let me tell you that there is a **** load of room to puit any head unit you want.. Crutchfiels said there is only 6 3/4 inches. Thats bull I installed a larger radio...there room inthere with space to move it to the hideaway faceplate to near 7 1/4 inchesw... I put to amps on the back of the hatchback seat and ran the speaker wires along one side of the car and the power along the other side... I have 0 hiss... I was amazed with it when I fianlly turned it on! Good luck with the install. I would never let any shop do it becasue I can't imagine the damage they would do. tearing into the car.... You will loose your sanity and plan to have a lot of time .. and have ingenutiy.. because I had to devise a whole bunch of fancy devices to coax wires and parts into my SVX good luck!!!!

[kvnobrien]

Here are some pics of the install I did last week. I really like the way the tweeters look too. System sound ok for now, but I'll be ordering an amp and will install the crossover to get stronger highs. What are your opinions on the way the tweeters look? (they fit perfectly)

Kevin's Speaker install (http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?kvnobrien|933)
:cool:

[cdigerlando]

I really like your install. Mine came out very similar, down to the dynomat, except my tweeters are mounted flush in the stock rim only. I will take a pic some time. I really like the way yours came out thought. I bet they really do a better job of directing the sound. Better than flush I bet.

Ultimately my setup sounds great with CDs, but I'm not totally satisfied with the FM. I guess I should not complain as I am using the stock setup.

[svxcess]

I what has to be an all-time record Svxit and I tackled the job of installing new speakers in the rear of my 92. Armed with all directions, tips and shortcuts we tackled the job on Sunday in his dimly lit underground parking garage.

Pulled out both rear seats, removed both side panels, slid out the deck, removed the speakers, a ratcheting right angle screwdriver is a wonderful thing!) installed new speakers, soldered and shrink wrapped the connections.

While the rear deck was out I also replaced the rear speaker grilles with new ones from Japan (The original grilles were cracked in 3 places each and were so dried out that they just crumbled then I removed them. I'm sure they were the cause of a lot of my buzzing/rattling)

Checked speakers for proper phasing and general operation. We then reinstalled rear deck, side panels, seats, etc. without breaking anything

Total install time was a little over 2 hours.

We then went outside and I proceeded to do his alternator wiring upgrade for him. All in all a very satisfying day. I thought the whole thing would take much longer. Taking out the seats and rear side panels is really the only way to go. It doesn't take very long and you avoid the possibility of scratching anything.

Thanks to all Aredub, Olu and all the other members who gave me excellent insights and tips on tackling this project

[kvnobrien]

Nice!

What type of speakers did you put in?
I replaced the rear speakers once already, but I think the voice coils went on them. It's hard to tell what's rattling back there unless I remove the rear deck agian.
Kev

[svxcess]

I used the Sony X-plod XS-V6921 three-ways in the rear. They run $99.00 from Crutchfield. I also used the Sony XS-V1621 6.5" speakers in the front. Aredub has the same speaker system and uses the stock stereo

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-gCehma7z7id/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=10&g=52300&I=158XSV6921&o=M&a=0

In retrospect I wonder how much better the XS-6945M 4-way speakers sound. The top of the frequency range is 28,000 Hz, compared to 26,000 for the V6921's.

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-gCehma7z7id/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=10&g=52300&I=158XSV6945&o=M&a=0

[Aredubjay]

Congratulations, John! Crank up dem tunes!!! :D

[kvnobrien]

My friends say that the rear speakers are used mostly for what they call "fill". From what I understand this means mostly mid range sounds to fill the car with more sound. I can demonstrate this "fill" theroy in my bedroom 4 point surround system. I can adjust the music to the front speakers which are about 2 feet from me and it sounds good, but then I bring in the rear speakers (about 6 feet away) and WOAH what a difference! Very nice setup svxcess, you probably won't notice the ($80) difference between the two speakers from Sony.

[Mr.Pwrlite]

Keep in mind if you are upgrading your sound system with subs, there is no need for your 6x9's in the rear deck. This will create proper staging in your car, also all the 6x9's are going to do is cause distortion and flutter with the pressure from the subwoofers. Good aftermarket tweeters and midrange speakers will work fine. I would suggest using at least two amps, one for your subs and one for your tweeters and mid's separated by a passive cross-over. If you don't want to use two amps, you can use a single four-channel amp. What I want to do soon is add a second set of speakers in the doors for a broader range of sound... possibly 5 1/4, because I have nothing filling in the space between the 6.5's and tweeters, and I'm making them work harder than they need to, trying to fill the gap. I see custom work ahead:(
Good Luck everyone on all your upgrades! :)