spark plug change

[NomadTW]

is there anythign quirky about this car that i should know?

i read the thread on the anti sieze very interesting.

and what brand of plugs should i go with?

[huck369]

It's somewhat tight to get to them.

I don't recomend anti-seize on them

Use NGK plugs


My recomendations.:)

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by huck369
It's somewhat tight to get to them.

I don't recomend anti-seize on them

Use NGK plugs


My recomendations.:)



I second those recommendations.

[NomadTW]

any specific level of ngk plugs, will pep boys carry ngk plugs? if not where should i get them

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by NomadTW
any specific level of ngk plugs, will pep boys carry ngk plugs? if not where should i get them

I've never tried to get the NGK's from a "chain" store. You might give them a call. They may have to order them. I usually get mine from Subaruparts.com or 1stsubaruparts.com. You might try Liberty Subaru, they're closer to you.

[vkykam]

Another option is to run the NGK Iridium IX plugs.

I paid $6USD/piece, running the IX20 I believe. I have it running in my '00 Legacy GT as well as the SVX, no problems. Same gap and all.

VK

[Mr. Pockets]

Originally posted by NomadTW
is there anythign quirky about this car that i should know?

Yes: It sucks.

Really - replacing the plugs on my SVX still rates as the most annoying thing I've ever had to do on a car. It took me an entire weekend because over half of my boots got stuck on the plugs and ripped.

I recommend having an inspection mirror on a stick handy, as well as a set of picks. These items make removal of stuck plug boots not only easier, but possible in the first place.

And if you rip any boots, don't worry about it. You can go to an auto parts store, browse their replacement plug wire sets and find yourself something very similar.

Next time I replace my plugs, I'm pulling the &%*#ing engine. I'm serious - I really hated it.

i read the thread on the anti sieze very interesting.

and what brand of plugs should i go with?

Get the stock NGKs. My old plugs, after 130k miles, looked fine and were all still gapped correctly. If it ain't broke...

[STORMINORMAN]

...plugs. Of course I change mine each 60K, so no prior problems getting them loose. Nor with the "boots" (?). I also use dielectric grease on the connector.

It is necessary to remove the air box and the battery & tray, but I had no problems accessing the plugs at all from the top. It is nice to have a couple different short extensions. I actually use my 1/4 drive ratchet with a 3/8 adaptor on a couple of them.

I think leaving them in for a long time only exascerbates the problem... :eek:

Cheers!

[Mr. Pockets]

Originally posted by STORMINORMAN
...plugs. Of course I change mine each 60K, so no prior problems getting them loose. Nor with the "boots" (?).


Yeah, the rubber boots that cover the connection between the coil and plug

I also use dielectric grease on the connector.

It is necessary to remove the air box and the battery & tray, but I had no problems accessing the plugs at all from the top. It is nice to have a couple different short extensions. I actually use my 1/4 drive ratchet with a 3/8 adaptor on a couple of them.

I think leaving them in for a long time only exascerbates the problem... :eek:

Cheers!

I don't doubt that you're right.

[huck369]

Mine had over 150k on them, and I didn't have any problems removing them or the coils.:eek:

[elninoalex]

I've done mine 4 times(copper) and it's not that bad. The first time it took 3 or 4 hours. The last time about 40 minutes. Be prepared for the driver's side rearmost plug. It can take as long as the other five combined.

[Earthworm]

Originally posted by vkykam
Another option is to run the NGK Iridium IX plugs.

I paid $6USD/piece, running the IX20 I believe. I have it running in my '00 Legacy GT as well as the SVX, no problems. Same gap and all.

VK What's the proper part number for the NGK Iridium plugs for the SVX?

[longassname]

The factory specified spark plugs are actually cheapest from the dealer as far as buying them in town. They are the NGK pfr6b-11 plug. If you are determined to used iridium don't use the ix use the higher quality Iridium plug which doesn't have the ix prefex. The iridium ix plugs do not have the platinum piece on the ground as the OEM quality iridiums do...like the double platinum ngk's that are factory spedified. The bosche's don't either. The best plugs you can get are definitely the ngk's and either the prf6b-11 double platinum plug that is factory specified or the iridium that cross references to it ifr6e-11. Personally I just put in the factory plugs which i was able to pick up from the dealer the same day for $12.50 each. If you want the iridiums go to http://www.ngk.com/default.asp where you can also look up the whole line of ngk plugs available for the svx. If anyone is trying to drive their car on regular unleaded which they really shouldn't they should switch to the pfr5b-11 to avoid detonation like i'm going to do when i bolt up my supercharger.

About the anti-sieze.........factory service manual is very specific to not use anti-sieze or any other lubricant. Spark plugs must be installed using a torque wrench and exactly the right lenght extension/socket combination. Propper torque is 20-29 Nm which is 14-22 Ft.Lbs. of torque. I have a two foot long wobble extension which makes changing that rear drivers side plug through the access hole a snap. I recomend it highly.

You might also want to get a bottle of degreaser and a can of electrical parts cleaner. After you remove the coils use the degreaser to clean up your valve covers if they need it and use the electrical parts cleaner to clean up your coils. Through out the whold project including the mechanical work I as always wear vinyl or latex gloves from the drug store. Don't want to get your hands dirty do you.

If you have the propper tools it's an hour long job at a leisurely pace. If you don't........it's going to be a nightmare. I would and do do it myself though as you probably can't trust your local mechanic to do it right.

[longassname]

I forgot.........

I WOULDN'T use the dielectric grease. Also highly discouraged by the factory service manual as it greatly increases the chance of arcing and missfiring. You'll find your spark plug tips and coils are very far recessed from the faces of your valve covers. If you get some of the dielectric grease oozing out it will be impossible to clean it up.

[vkykam]

Shoot. The IX20 were the Nippondenso's... Duh.

BKR6EIX-11 is the NGK part number. They're in my Legacy and SVX right now, both for over a year.

Canadian Tire has them, at $20CDN/2 pack. They run sales every so often, down to $16CDN/2 pack.

VK

Originally posted by Earthworm
What's the proper part number for the NGK Iridium plugs for the SVX?

[STORMINORMAN]

...small dab of dielectric grease on the tip ("boot" end) of the spark plug! If you don't always use this stuff with a Ford electronic ignition system you may well one day find yourself dead-in-the-water.

I've used this on every single sparkplug in every application since the mid-80's. Never have heard any recommendation against its use. Longassname: can you get me a reference for your factory disapproval statement, please? Are we talking about the same stuff?:confused:

Cheers!

[longassname]

Originally posted by STORMINORMAN
...small dab of dielectric grease on the tip ("boot" end) of the spark plug! If you don't always use this stuff with a Ford electronic ignition system you may well one day find yourself dead-in-the-water.

I've used this on every single sparkplug in every application since the mid-80's. Never have heard any recommendation against its use. Longassname: can you get me a reference for your factory disapproval statement, please? Are we talking about the same stuff?:confused:

Cheers!


I've always used it on my prior vehicles too......but i've never had a car where the spart plugs are recessed inside of the valve covers so you can't see them during the install and with coils that bolt directly to the spark plug with short boots. Sure it's possible you can be very very careful and not have any dielectric making it's way to the edge of the boot and causing an arcing problem but do you really feel it's necessary? I don't know about your coils but mine show no signs of wanting to corrode.

[STORMINORMAN]

It was more of an application comment vs. a prohibition one.

I see now that there is a potential problem as far as getting it on properly, and wholeheartedly agree with Longassname that having the grease slopping out of the coil could certainly cause a problem.

I use this product sparingly in a little tube and am pretty careful in applying it, so I've never experienced any arcing problem. My boots & coils and the plugs have come off with no problems so far. I think it really also has to do with how hot your engine & transmission gets over the long run. In as mild a climate as Oregon none of my vehicles ever really show any signs of over-heating, but I know that I'm pretty anal about maintenance.

;)

[Beav]

Dielectric:
Pronunciation: "dI-&-'lek-trik
Function: noun
Etymology: dia- + electric
Date: 1837
: a nonconductor of direct electric current
(Merriam-Webster Online)

Were you awake when you read the part that said not to use it? It insulates the connection, inhibits oxidation of the connection and allows for easier, tear-free removal of the coil/spark plug boot.

BTW, you don't need to buy something that specifically states "dielectric compound". I've been using the same silicone grease that I use on everything else for a number of years now.

[longassname]

Originally posted by Beav
Dielectric:
Pronunciation: "dI-&-'lek-trik
Function: noun
Etymology: dia- + electric
Date: 1837
: a nonconductor of direct electric current
(Merriam-Webster Online)

Were you awake when you read the part that said not to use it? It insulates the connection, inhibits oxidation of the connection and allows for easier, tear-free removal of the coil/spark plug boot.

BTW, you don't need to buy something that specifically states "dielectric compound". I've been using the same silicone grease that I use on everything else for a number of years now.

He's right. Dielctric grease isn't supposed to conduct electricity just seal out moisture and oxygen preserving the metal to metal contact where it is displaced. I'm most likely wrong about the service manual advising against it. I thought i had read that there but on relooking i don't see it.

[STORMINORMAN]

As, so... Grasshopper!

It does not function to CONDUCT electricity but rather to prevent formation of corrosion that would impede the normal flow from the coil to the plug.

What kind of REGULAR silicone grease are you using, BEAV? The $tuff I've been buying come$ in a very $mall tube. Seems to last a long time, though. Kinda' like JB Weld...

There must be various grades of silicone lube as I also see high temp products (for disk brake calipers) besides.

:cool: Always neat to learn something new!

[mattski]

So far no-one mentioned that the spark plug replacement must be done on a cold engine, according to the manual.

Matt

[kuoh]

The aluminum is probably a bit softer when at normal operating temperature, but the advice is probably more for safety as you can't really get near the plugs without burning yourself until the engine has cooled down substantially.

KuoH

[Beav]

My fav for several years now: http://www.permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=20355

I normally get it in the 8oz. brush top bottle. I probably have more call for it than the average Jane or Joe, though.

Cold engine plug replacement reccomendations are to protect you from removing the threads from the hole along with the spark plug. Yes, it happens, and no, it isn't an easy repair on the SVX! :eek:

Originally posted by STORMINORMAN
As, so... Grasshopper!

It does not function to CONDUCT electricity but rather to prevent formation of corrosion that would impede the normal flow from the coil to the plug.

What kind of REGULAR silicone grease are you using, BEAV? The $tuff I've been buying come$ in a very $mall tube. Seems to last a long time, though. Kinda' like JB Weld...

There must be various grades of silicone lube as I also see high temp products (for disk brake calipers) besides.

:cool: Always neat to learn something new!

[NomadTW]

Originally posted by mattski
So far no-one mentioned that the spark plug replacement must be done on a cold engine, according to the manual.

Matt

common sense?
i just assumed it would have to be cold, that the plugs would come out easier, and you wouldn't get burnt

[mattski]

I don't know how common this is. Most people, myself included, are not completely familiar with the nuances of aluminium engines. I think the FSM calls for a dead cold engine, not just one cool enough not to cause burns.

Matt

[kuoh]

If that were the case, then most dealer shops aren't following the recommendations. How many of you have actually had to leave the car overnight for a simple plug change? It's ovbiously a good idea to have a cold engine, but it won't be the end of the world if not. Unless you happen to have a thread mishap as Beav noted.

KuoH

[Beav]

Yeah, it's safe to say that. Right up until it happens to you. It's happened to me once or twice. You don't risk it on plugs that don't have clear access to the holes - just in case it does happen. You don't have to leave it overnight, but I/we do leave the car to cool down for at least a couple hours before changing them. And all this time you thought the mechanics were just goofing off.... ;)

[mbtoloczko]

I also recommend not using anti-seize. Yes, it is a PITA. If your engine is dirty in the area around the plugs, I recommend cleaning before attemping the spark plug change. I think this will lessen the chance of introducing unwanted dirt/grime into the combustion chamber.

After quite a bit of reading, I decided that the Denso Iridium plugs look like the best. I liked them better than the NGK Iridium plugs because the Denso plugs have a U-groove in the tongue and the NGK plugs do not. The U-groove is supposed to improve ignition of the air-fuel mixture if you believe the Denso propaganda.

[longassname]

Originally posted by mbtoloczko
I also recommend not using anti-seize. Yes, it is a PITA. If your engine is dirty in the area around the plugs, I recommend cleaning before attemping the spark plug change. I think this will lessen the chance of introducing unwanted dirt/grime into the combustion chamber.

After quite a bit of reading, I decided that the Denso Iridium plugs look like the best. I liked them better than the NGK Iridium plugs because the Denso plugs have a U-groove in the tongue and the NGK plugs do not. The U-groove is supposed to improve ignition of the air-fuel mixture if you believe the Denso propaganda.

Groove shmoove, i want the platinum bit on the ground electrode so i don't have to change them for another 60,000 miles. the ix iridiums don't have it but the regular iridiums do.

[maximvsv]

Originally posted by Mr. Pockets

And if you rip any boots, don't worry about it. You can go to an auto parts store, browse their replacement plug wire sets and find yourself something very similar.


Are the boots replaceable on the '93? If so, how?